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nickbullock |
Helmet Boiler
Aug 8 2009, 5:08 AM EDT
Climbed this with Tim Neil three days ago. Dont be fooled by the grade children, this was an absolutely horrific journey into the bottom of my soul, or did my soul fall out of my bottom when i looked up and saw the overhanging mud i was about to climb. One of the most serious routes ive done, or maybe i'm getting old and sensible! (call me a lightweight if you want Pete i dont care because ive done it now and will never have to do it again.)The first peg is pretty shoddy but a few bits of gear in the same rock are ok but once you have commited to the going right to the ledge youre on your own with no way to reverse and only a quartz block and a twenty five year old peg between you and a big yellow helicopter flight to the Bangor A+E. Scratch around in the mud in an attempt to find something other than the peg before climbing the overhanging mud groove. With relief craw left along the ledge above to a really good belay on the arete. This climb i'm sure should have an XS grade as it no way resembles anything like rock climbing and E5. I would suggest if you are having a really bad time and you have split up with your girlfriend going up this climb with a hammer and some big chunky pegs to replace at least the one before the overhanging mud groove.
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