|
|
|
Bouldering Benllech beach
|
Discussion Forum
|
1 |
Oct 10 2009, 12:06 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Oct 9 2009, 1:33 PM EDT
Watch
Just wondering if theres any bouldering at benllech, and what its like?
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Bouldering Benllech beach
By: ,
Oct 10 2009, 12:06 PM EDT
Check it out here:- http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=393 Also some bouldering on the main beach.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Television route / safer start
|
Right Hand Red Walls
|
1 |
Aug 20 2009, 3:55 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Sep 1 2007, 10:06 AM EDT
Watch
Maybe not quite so safer any more / 1st peg is worthless and most are now pretty corroded. Gear is not easy to find unless you can come to terms with using the bolts! I'd say it was pretty much the same as the direct but then might just be getting soft.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Television route / safer start
By: ,
Aug 20 2009, 3:55 PM EDT
"Maybe not quite so safer any more / 1st peg is worthless and most are now pretty corroded. Gear is not easy to find unless you can come to terms with using the bolts! I'd say it was pretty much the same as the direct but then might just be getting soft. " I'd agree with Dai. Anyway the 1st peg's no longer there - one gentle tap and it crumbled away. Tried to replace it with another peg but couldn't remove the rusted stump. Its possible to place a small wire next to the remains of the peg. Electrification of Soviet Union also made use of the peg. Pete Johnson
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Some grade comments
|
Discussion Forum
|
0 |
Aug 16 2009, 4:54 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 16 2009, 4:54 PM EDT
Watch
I thought Drag and Merchant Man were both very hard for E1. Although both were greasy low down when we did them and this affected the lower hard section on Drag and the P1 crux on Merchant Man, nevertheless, the top hard bit on Drag and the 2nd pitch of Merchant Man were both dry and still felt hard (Drag pumpy, Merchant Man serious). Drag felt harder than any of the E2s I have done on the crag this year (Eternal Optimist, Heroin, Vend T) although Eternal Optimist felt nearly as hard.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Ab slings at top of Hustler
|
Discussion Forum
|
0 |
Aug 16 2009, 4:40 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 16 2009, 4:40 PM EDT
Watch
We removed the ab slings on the block at the top of Hustler today (a) both slings were very frayed, (b) The block moves (only side to side and the pull comes from the end but do you feel lucky? Sorry we didn't replace the slings but a) the block is dodgy (as above) and b) 8 ft slings are not really long enough. They go tightly over the block and I think the severe fraying of the slings was due to them sawing up and down on the sharp ends of the block as ab ropes are weighted and unweighted. A longer sling would be needed to avoid this and we didn't have one.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Helmet Boiler
|
Mousetrap Zawn
|
0 |
Aug 8 2009, 5:08 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 8 2009, 5:08 AM EDT
Watch
Climbed this with Tim Neil three days ago. Dont be fooled by the grade children, this was an absolutely horrific journey into the bottom of my soul, or did my soul fall out of my bottom when i looked up and saw the overhanging mud i was about to climb. One of the most serious routes ive done, or maybe i'm getting old and sensible! (call me a lightweight if you want Pete i dont care because ive done it now and will never have to do it again.)The first peg is pretty shoddy but a few bits of gear in the same rock are ok but once you have commited to the going right to the ledge youre on your own with no way to reverse and only a quartz block and a twenty five year old peg between you and a big yellow helicopter flight to the Bangor A+E. Scratch around in the mud in an attempt to find something other than the peg before climbing the overhanging mud groove. With relief craw left along the ledge above to a really good belay on the arete. This climb i'm sure should have an XS grade as it no way resembles anything like rock climbing and E5. I would suggest if you are having a really bad time and you have split up with your girlfriend going up this climb with a hammer and some big chunky pegs to replace at least the one before the overhanging mud groove.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
The Final Front-Ear.
|
Mousetrap Zawn
|
0 |
Aug 8 2009, 4:48 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 8 2009, 4:48 AM EDT
Watch
Climbed this yesterday with Charly Woodburn.Brilliant. Along side Hysterisis possibly the best route on the wall, get it done everyone. The wet streak is not a problem. The first pitch and the crux is well protected (a few number 4 friends will be very welcomed) and proper hard for a few moves, well done Mr Woodburn! The second pitch is also brilliant in a different way and 60m ropes will get you to a belay just over the top.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Yellow Shark.
|
Yellow Walls
|
0 |
Aug 8 2009, 4:33 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 8 2009, 4:33 AM EDT
Watch
Climbed this with Caff a few weeks ago. A pumpy little number. The first half getting to the pegs on ME is really blind and the description should probably say climb the initial groove high, blindly pulling up to good holds. Squirm along a ledge before dropping down to the pegs from directly above not by a horizontal traverse. It did take me numerous journeys to discover this, by which time my arms were a tad weary and i fell off the "easy moves" of ME, which for anyone who has not climbed ME, are the crux! The gear is really good on this section though the pegs on ME are pretty shoddy. Caff bless him then pulled the ropes and led the whole pitch. A pretty awesome effort. Possibly the most extended ive seen him for a few years. The final groove is definately the crux, on crappy rock with shoddy gear. Thank f**k i fell when i did!
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Eraserhead Pitch 2
|
The Main Cliff
|
1 |
Jun 27 2009, 8:51 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jun 25 2009, 12:24 PM EDT
Watch
I couldn't make the description in the new guide work for this pitch. After the hard bit, it says to move out R to a 'small furry corner'. I attempted to do this and encountered moves harder than I had done already with no gear. However the old guide says to go to a large niche R of the Bucket Seat. This makes more sense and climbs a better line up good rock with gear. To further confuse things, the line on the new topo goes straight up between the two possibilities I desrcibe! Worthwhile route whatever, and I agree with the regrading in the new guide.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Eraserhead Pitch 2
By: ,
Jun 27 2009, 8:51 AM EDT
The description in the new guide sounds wrong. I don't remember a small furry corner and we didn't join Alien at this point on the first ascent. After leaving Positron the pitch was independent until Cordon Bleu. Maybe the small furry corner is on ET?
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Pentraeth Forest
|
Other Anglesey crags
|
0 |
May 27 2009, 11:16 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: May 27 2009, 11:16 AM EDT
Watch
A few summers back whilst visiting my parents I came across a small crag on the road through Penrtaeth forest. Remember that it wasn't too hard, routes in mainly Diff/V Diff range, but may be a few forced routes in slightly higher grades. There's very little potential but was good for a bit of soloing one afternoon. If I ever go back I'll post further details.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Dream of White Horses
|
Discussion Forum
|
1 |
May 27 2009, 6:54 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: May 14 2009, 7:40 AM EDT
Watch
Hey there, Can anyone suggest a good source for info on who the first people to climb the Dream of White Horses were? I've found bits and pieces but any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Dream of White Horses
By: ,
May 27 2009, 6:54 AM EDT
http://www.amazon.com/Dream-White-Horses-Recollections-Rocks/dp/1898573220
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
jonnyr |
|
Pentathol and Peepshow- A Shag on the belay..
|
Discussion Forum
|
0 |
Apr 25 2009, 10:42 AM EDT by
jonnyr |
|
|
Thread started: Apr 25 2009, 10:42 AM EDT
Watch
Shag nesting on the 1st belay of Peepshow, think it's on eggs as it didn't want to move and seemed to be trying to puke in my face, so suggest staying away for while unless you move right and belay as for Penathol then rejoin the 2nd pitch by doing a small 'unmarked' link, up and left, rejoining the 2nd pitch below the block with tat on it; thus avoiding disturbing the bird. This also affects Pentathol as climbing this line would mean climbing and trailing your ropes over the nest. On the subject of Peepshow, Steaky and i thought spicey E2 5c for the 3rd pitch as opposed to E1, quite strenuous with interesting rock, classic Gogarth!
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Nightride
|
The Main Cliff
|
1 |
Apr 24 2009, 1:27 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Sep 9 2007, 3:59 PM EDT
Watch
Does anyone else think that E1 is quite an insult for this route? Its harder and steeper than the Strand, certainly harder than the 5b pitch on Gogarth, steeper and a touch more technical than Emulator. I could go on....and on... but when Breaking the Barrier gets a justified E1 5b then this is surely to god E2 for its steep and continuous moves at the standard. Also consider its position on the Main cliff. It is a very good route but three stars? Every pitch should be excellent for a three star route. However good it is, its not got excellent pitches at either end of the big pitch.I think E2 5b** .What do you think??
2
out of
3 found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Do you?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Nightride
By: ,
Apr 24 2009, 1:27 PM EDT
You'll get it this year Stu (sorry, I mean Flake) and then we can all go home and call it E1... :-)
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Aardvark
|
The Main Cliff
|
5 |
Sep 26 2008, 5:08 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Sep 18 2007, 3:48 PM EDT
Watch
Does anone else think this one a little bold at E2 6A? At this grade I expect gear above my head on the hard move, but the 6A move is up and right of some less than bombproof gear.
0
out of
1 found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Do you?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Aardvark
By: ,
Sep 26 2008, 5:08 PM EDT
"Does anone else think this one a little bold at E2 6A? At this grade I expect gear above my head on the hard move, but the 6A move is up and right of some less than bombproof gear." I think you're right.
0
out of
1 found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Do you?
|
|
|
|
|
achilles
|
Discussion Forum
|
0 |
Sep 23 2008, 1:49 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Sep 23 2008, 1:49 PM EDT
Watch
Started up Coming on strong and then finished up Achilles yesterday. This gave a nice contrasting E3 pitch, initially bold then strenuous
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Isis is Angry.
|
Yellow Walls
|
3 |
Sep 11 2008, 5:02 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jul 30 2008, 2:53 PM EDT
Watch
Having just climbed this route with Caff i feel the need to vent a tad on the above grade, description and Neil's description of Isis below. On the grade, it is definately a whole lot more serious and sustained than ME, Ludwig, and (havent done it yet but will get on it in a week or so) The Drunk. I would say this climb in its entirety deserves its E7 grade, and bench mark at that. In comparison to other E6's at Gogarth, definately a whole grade more. I would agree that the climbing in the final groove is not 6c, rather sustained 6b... Oh, and to add a little fuel to the fire, didnt you fall off the last pitch Neil? And Dan then led it on your gear. Yes i know a hold broke, but this will suggest that the rock is other than perfect and so adds to the difficulty.
On the description and Neil's comments. The first pitch is serious, very dirty, very adventurous and commiting but it is an E7 after all. I went slightly wrong and climbed the corner to high, got commited and couldnt get any gear to make the swing right, to the groove i should have been, so i belayed on a grass ramp below the grass ramp i should have belayed on. Caff came up and made one steep pull on overhanging gop to put us back on track. The second pitch is well worth doing, similar to creepin lemma, sustained and quite pumpy. All of this climbing and suspense takes a lot out of your arms,(and head) making the final 2 pitches feel harder. My point being, you have not done this climb if you ab in and climb from the ramp. Are we now convenience climbing at Gogarth? Are we only cherry picking pitches? The whole of climbing is pointless if you look at it. Why bother climbing anything if we can just walk to the top? The first two pitches are not pointless, they are the climb as Haston and Kay first completed it and should not be dispelled. sorry, a rant, but hey...
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: Isis is Angry.
By: ,
Sep 11 2008, 5:02 PM EDT
"Hi Nick,
Yes I did indeed fall of this route when a foothold broke as I was literally rocking onto the top of the crag, however I still don't think that means it has to be E7 - I'm not immune to falling of pumpy E6's you know! - especially when a solid looking hold breaks, it happens to everyone occasionally. Dan and Caff also thought the top pitch was of similar difficulty to ME, which I think is quite a tough E6. Maybe this does make the whole of Isis E7 but probably not - I would put it in the same league as Conan - 1 hard but scary/safe tough E6 pitch a loose and out there E5 pitch and an easy pitch. Maybe it is bottom end E7, as I've said many times before just depends where we chose to draw the line.
As for the quality, I enjoyed doing the first two pitches for the adventure but if you’re not into loose choss and climbing next to grass ledge then just climb the top one as it's brilliant and very worthwhile in it's own right. Didn't you share this sentiment on the Super Calabrese? Maybe pointless was the wrong word but they do just lead to a massive ledge that you can walk off from.
On a completely different note after seeing a picture of Nico on it and then reading the guidebook I realized that when I did Authentic Desire on Cloggy I started on the right hand side of the arête instead of the left which was pretty tricky and bold ( but excellent). I would therefore like to withdraw ever saying to you Nick that it’s harder than things like Wreath or Surgical and confusing the North Wales E6/E7 grading debate further. " Hi Neil, nice reply...oh, dont be modest...you would never fall from an E6...thats why Wreath is E7 and so is Isis... I actually think the top is a tad more difficult than ME, but like you say that is a hard E6 anyway...Compare ME to Lord (both the same grade) and i know which is definately the easiest..hmm, maybe Lord is only E5 then, that would piss on a few folks bonfire wouldnt it? anyway, i still think the whole outing is E7.. on the super Calabrese i basically didnt do the route, only the last two pitches...i used your alternative start hand holds for footholds...whatever that means i dont know, but since doing it and finding out more about the route i personally dont think ive done it...maybe bigger balls or an ice axe is needed and next summer will tell!..and pointless was the wrong word but you are neil YOUTH after all and i forgive you. on authentic, you started on the right..what the f**k were you thinking...!yeh, its obviously E4...oh and by the way you dont need to withdraw anything you said to me as i'm nick OLD git and dont remember anything the day after.. nice to have you back Neil..
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Stroke E6, Wreath E6, Angleman E6???
|
North Stack Wall
|
17 |
Sep 11 2008, 9:01 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Mar 11 2007, 2:44 PM EDT
Watch
Really?...
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
Show Last Reply
|
|
Last Reply:
RE: broccli garden super calabrese
By: ,
Sep 11 2008, 9:01 AM EDT
Hi Twid,
Caff and I never did the first pitch of the Calabrese and yes it looked very tough and I wouldn't be surprised if it was E7 - top effort on repeating it. Out of interest, did you clean it before you did it at all as it looks to be in an abominable state now with bird shit and grass and I have never ever seen remotely dry! The variation that we climbed instead was excellent and a fair bit harder than the upper pitches but maybe I will get round to doing the original first pitch at some point if I'm ever down there when it looks dry!
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
|
Penmon
|
Other Anglesey crags
|
0 |
Aug 21 2008, 7:53 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 21 2008, 7:53 AM EDT
Watch
this quarry looks fairly large on a map, just wondering if there was scope for any other routes there?
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Where?
|
Other Anglesey crags
|
0 |
Aug 21 2008, 7:46 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 21 2008, 7:46 AM EDT
Watch
Would it bepossible to include more details with regards to where these places actually are, A Grid reference maybe?
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
Red Wall / Fantasia
|
Discussion Forum
|
0 |
Aug 9 2008, 3:23 PM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Aug 9 2008, 3:23 PM EDT
Watch
1) Whilst on the stance at the top of P1 of RW yesterday I spent some time trying to find the line of Fantasia. I'm not sure at which point should I brake out right of RW. Any obvious landmarks? It's not a place to end up in a cul-de-sac. 2) I could see two pegs on the edge of a compact dark red wall 15' right of the stance. I think the lower of the two (same level as the stance I was on) protects the traverse of Communication Breakdown. The upper peg (30' higher) protrudes a lot and is possibly on Doppelgangen. I can't find a description in the present guide climbing the excellent looking line between the two pegs. This compact piece of rock is an obvious feature when you look over from Castell Helen, I've looked at it a lot but never seen any chalk marks. Anybody know which route this is?
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|
|
|
|
New route...Pola-ride. E46b. Nick Bullock/ Dan McMannus. 19/6/08
|
The Main Cliff
|
0 |
Jul 31 2008, 6:25 AM EDT by
|
|
|
Thread started: Jul 31 2008, 6:25 AM EDT
Watch
pointed at this by Simon Marsh who has done an amazing cleaning job whle checking routes for the new guide.
pitch 1 The first pitch of Diogenes. pitch2. Move right from the Diogenes belay around a rib until beneath two cracks running the length of a steep wall. Pull into the right hand crack, climb this by strenuous laybacking until the slab above is reached. Climb direct for a few moves until a balancy move left puts you into the corner system that leads easily to the top. Approximately 30 metres. It would be possible to climb the 1st and second pitch together with careful ropework and fit arms. This would give a pretty good and sustained pitch.
out of
found this valuable.
Do you find this valuable?
|