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Trearddur Bay

drevil — Sun, 13 Dec 2009 09:33:35 CST

The Face of Adversity.

One of the steepest bits of quartzite on Anglesey.

Reached by taking the minor Ravenspoint road southwards to the southern most headland of the bay. Enter a disgusting housing estate and follow a sign to "Headland". Probably best to ask guy in house (with "Beware of Dog" sign) if it is O.K to climb his cliff.

Dr Livingstone I Exhume E3 5b

Descend as for The Treacherous Underfoot and belay just above sea level. The route starts from the first ledge above high water. Go straight up the wall, with trepidation, to a half way ledge, gear. Bail up the wall above, trending slightly leftwards past a mega thread to finish. Excellent.

P.Barbier, M.Anthone.

The Treacherous Underfoot E6/7 6b 15m.

Precambrian yarding up the overhanging crack in the face, suited to a mid to low tide. Mostly protected by pegs. Hold later pulled off by Micky Johnstone. George definitely had a thing about it being The Treacherous Underfoot. You know, like an animal.

G.Smith, 1992. Twid climbed it without the top pegs which where missing. Thought E7.

Chicama E9 6c 15m.

Tackles the centre of the face. Quest in from the slab on the right before having it up the groove and wall. RA!

T. Emmett, 2003.Named after a surf break reputed to be the longest left in the world.

The Crow Road E6 6b 15m.

The crack line on the left side of the face. Approach as for The Treacherous Underfoot, over the boulder at low tide or down the slab on the left at high tide. Scramble up to belay ledge. Climb the crack past 7 peg runners and assorted cam placements. Pegs 2, 3, and 7 are the best. Large nuts required at the top (sorry girls!).

G.Farquhar, C.Carolan (30/7/93).2nd ascent by Twid, 3rd by Owen Hayward

The pegs are stainless steel, merits discussed here.

Headland XS 6a

The obvious prow jutting out of the sea, adjacent to the Adversity main face. Scramble down to sea level. Attack from the left by large sloping jugs. Committing moves leads to ace jug things. Bolder at low tide.

G.Smith. (1993).

Alex Outlaws Electric Rod XS 5a

As for Headland, however, takes the unobvious prow ….?…

Merlin Tomkins. (1993).

Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes XS 5c 23m.

On the crag back and left (looking in) of The Treacherous Underfoot. It takes a direct line up the longest part of the crag and traverses slightly right on Stegosaurus like protrusions at the top. Fun and friable.

A.Hopkins, J.Harrison, P.Barbier. (summer,92).

Captain Gets his Oats E3 5c 17m.

Right of Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes is a crack going left to an arête. Traverse along the crack to the arête thing and climb direct up this with much interest to a step slightly left onto a sloping ledge.

A.Hopkins, J.Harrison, P.Barbier. (summer,92).

Reinhold Made a Mesner HVS 5a 13m.

Takes a crack over to the right of Captain Gets his Oats. Steep and fun.

J.Harrison, P.Barbier. (summer,92).

Dangleberries E4 6b 10m.

Situated on an overhanging wall to the right of The Treacherous Underfoot (looking in). Very short and very steep crack sporting 2 pegs, often wet but good value.

P.Barbier, J.Harrison. (summer,92).

The next three routes lie in a deep gully at the end of the boundary wall, on a slab facing seawards. Descend either by abseil or down climb Diff face.

Boundary Corner V.Diff 17m.

Flaky crack in right hand corner. Follow thin crack to the top.

N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).

Dogleg Crack V.Diff 17m.

The right hand of 2 cracks up the centre of the wall.

N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).

Catleg Crack V.Diff 17m.

The left hand crack.

N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).

Campian Crack Severe 14m.

In the small bay to the right of a sewage pipe, the wall on your right as you are facing seawards, which has a crack turning diagonally leftwards, split at half height. Climb this.

N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).

Porth Dafarch

Brewing and Nothingness E5 6a 17m.

Climb the juggy wall at the inland end of the face to a prominent quartz riddled notch. Easy to begin - to moving ledges. The steepening quartzy area is protected by numerous slings. Gain a handrail to enter the left-hand niche and the top with trepidation. Plastacine forearms etc.

G.Smith, Alistair Hopkins. (2/93).

The Blue House E5 6a 20m.Located in Blue House Cave. Climbs the obvious left leaning flake thing on north..?..

G.Smith. (2000?).

I have climbed two lines on the right hand side of Porth Dafarch on the rocks underneath the 79 sponsored life ring, which is the second ring along the cliff edge from the beach. These seem to be very obvious lines which I would be surprised if they have not been climbed before. One is a rising rightward traverse at about S/HS the other is a steep arete with an overhanging start maybe HVS. Are they worth recording? More details available on request.
C. Thorne (Sep 07)

The Upper Tier

DanArkle — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 19:33:04 CDT

The Upper Tier

The Upper Tier is something of the shallow end when it comes to adventure in Gogarth Bay. It is reasonably easy to access along a rather treacherous path, but its non-tidal nature makes it a rather forgiving venue. Classic routes like The Strand, Park Lane/Doomsville, Winking Crack, The Cruise and Energy Crisis make this a popular area. Ideal for when you haven't enough time to do another route on Main Cliff or you've got the tides wrong!

Approach

The first routes on the southern part of the Main Cliff and the Upper Tier are accessed via the path/track from South Stack towards Holyhead Mountain. Just after you pass the radar station and just before you get to Holyhead Mountain a track leads down leftwards towards sea and a nice racking up spot, above a gully. The top of the gully is undercut massively and not a good place to stand and admire the view.

The routes are describe from south to north as you approach them.

The description to this area came from another website, Steve Lewis AKA Steve the pro already had an online PDF for this area. Steve, thank you very much. To link to his site click here

Nomad VS 52m

Troggs Way HVS 5a 40m

Psychocandy E6/7 6c 18m

A thin and bold pitch taking the obvious thin crack rightwards up the cleaned wall. Start by scrambling up to a peg belay at the foot of the obvious slabby corner left of the decent gully. Climb the corner for a few metres then move right to the crack. Follow this past two pegs to finish on the arête.

C Smith 1986

Dirtigo VS 49m

Not as bad as the name suggests, allegedly. Start as for Psychocandy.

1 110' 4c. Climb the corner skirting slightly leftwards around the bulge. Continue up to a grassy ledge with peg belays.

2 50' 4a. From the belay traverse right and follow a chimney to the top.

M Yates, J Jordan 1966.

Variation

2a 50' 4c Climb the slab up and leftwards to finish.

Acid HVS 52m

Dropout E2 5b 49m

The Rift VS 57m

Good if you like chimneys. Start at a chockstone belay beneath the right hand side of the gigantic pinnacle.

1 120' 4c Climb the chimney until it is possible to escape to a small ledge on the left. Shuffle to the edge of the flake then climb up and left to a spike belay on top of the flake itself.

2 15' A short scramble behind the stance leads to a second spike belay in a small recess.

3 55' 4c The crack behind the belay.

C E Davies, A Cowburn 1966.

Strike 190 feet E3 ***

Takes the obvious twin diagonal cracks up the right hand side of the front face of the gigantic pinnacle. Start beneath the cracks.

1 120'. 6a Move up little and make a hard move left to get established on the line. A good rest after 6 metres is followed by a baffling sequence to enter the slabby groove above. Follow this, and then the wide crack on the right to belay on the top of the flake.

2 70' 4c Gain the crack above and follow this to finish as for the Rift.

R Edwards, E Fry (5 pts), FFA P Gomersall, S Foster 1976.

Between Strike and the next slabby corner is the impressive steep front face of the Strike pinnacle.

Strike Direct 100 feet E6 6c

A vicious and scary direct start up the faint arête, protected by small wires. Start down and left of the original start. Boulder out the arête to join Strike at the good resting place just below the slabby groove.

J M Redhead 1982.

Dead and Bloated 120 feet E6 6c

A direct finish to Strike. Don't get struck off. Follow Strike to the shake out. Step right and climb the wall past 4 pegs to a difficult exit onto the sloping top. Finish easily.

G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (7/7/94).

Blackleg 155 feet E5 ***

A vague right trending depression provides the line of this serious pitch. A good selection of wires and a large sling can be placed, but few of the runners are really inspiring.

1 70' 6a A strenuous start leads up and right to a spike runner. Pull straight up to a small flake on the left which accepts further protection. Move up right to a good hold where the wall steepens, and a very long reach leads to an excellent hold and the ramp of Strike. Belay.

2 35' 6a Gain and climb the flake on the right. Follow a lichenous ramp leftwards, then go up to belay on the top of the pinnacle.

3 50' 4c Finish as for the Rift.

R Fawcett, C Gibb 1978. Spike runner now departed. 12/9/09

Sex and Religion 120 feet E7 6c

The obvious left hand finish to Blackleg. Sustained climbing with poor protection. More serious then Panorama. Follow Blackleg past the flakes to a relatively good nut placement. Move up and left to a poor peg. Continue with difficulty to gain the vertical crackline above and follow this to join Strike. Finish up this.

G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (26/7/93). On-sighted by Caff, 2003.

Barbarossa 170 feet E6/7 ***

Start left of Blackleg, directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. It has now been reclimbed without the emasculating peg- it stuck out a lot! - and is now bolder. Top end E6, if not E7.

1 120' 6b Climb up to a large pocket (large nut). Technical moves lead slightly leftwards then rightwards (or is it rightwards, then leftwards?) to regain the line of pockets and soon some gear. Follow pockets and a vague crack line to a small overlap and continue in the same line to an old peg. Step right then go easily up to belay on the flake.

2 50' 4c As for the Rift.

J Moran, A Evans 1978. FFA J Redhead 6/7/1980.
Reclimbed sans peg by Craig Smith, 2003

Bloody Chimney 180 feet HVS

Takes the chimney up the L side of the huge pinnacle. Start below a crack at the foot of the slabby corner to the left of the pinnacle.

1 70' 4c Climb the crack and continue up the chimney to sloping ledge, and belay.

2 60' 4b climb the chimney to the top of the huge flake.

3 50' 4c Finish as for the Rift

D E Alcock, D Potts (alt) 1966.

Immediately left of Bloody Chimney is a large slab taken by Pantin and Puffin. This is bounded on the right by a steep wall which provides a number of harder routes ...

UFO 210 feet E2 *

Start at the bottom of the slabby corner as for Bloody Chimney.

1. 100' 5b Climb the slabby corner until a thin crack in the right wall can be reached at 25'. Follow this (a little fragile) moving right then back left, and continue to a pinnacle, where a short descent right leads to a belay in Bloody Chimney.

2. 110' 5b Return to the pinnacle and follow grooves and cracks to a ledge. Another crack, up left leads to a niche. Continue to the top.

L E Holliwell, F Quigley, L R Holliwell, 1967.

Pantin 220 feet VS

A worthwhile route starting as for Bloody Chimney at the foot of the slabby corner.

1 120' 4b Follow the corner for 30' then go diagonally leftwards across the slab to reach short cracks in the left wall. Climb these to a ledge and spike belay.

2 100' 5a Step down and traverse across the steep wall on the right to reach a big spike in the corner. Finish up the main groove above.

A Williams, B Royal, 1964.

Get the Stroll E3 5c

Run Fast, Run Free 120 feet E5 6a ***

Originally E4 now been upgraded coz of loss of flakes (that what they always say). Belay at the start of the thin crack, on the wall to the right of the short cracks of Pantin.

Follow the crack trending left then up to an obvious pod. Continue past a poor PR, taking care with a loose flake, then step right to gain the continuation crack which leads to the top.

D Knighton, J Girdly (2 rest pts), FFA W Todd or P O'Donovan 1980.

Canned Laughter E2 5c (1 pt)

Dangerous Rhythm E3 5c

Force 8 225 feet HVS

A good route taking the left edge of the Pantin Slab, and arête above. Start at the edge of the slab, left of Dangerous Rhythm.

1 140' 4c Climb up and right for 15', then back left to gain the arête at a small bulge. Follow the crack up the edge of the slab then take alight groove leading to the skyline. Step right and go up the crack to belay at the top block.

2 85' 5a Move down into a chimney and climb the crack in the back wall, which is actually the right hand side of the flake. From the top of the crack step right across a steep wall and climb the groove by its left branch. Step right again to ledges and go up easy cracks to the top.

D Durkan, P Sandall, P Brown, 1970.

Puffin 210 feet VS

L of Pantin is a subsidiary slab, the corner between the two being filled by a bulging flake of rock. serious due to vegatation

1 50' 4a The groove, on the L of the flake, is climbed to a belay on top of the flake.

2 80' 4b Cross rightwards for 10' and climb a short crack up onto the edge of the Pantin Slab. Climb rightwards to reach short cracks in the wall above, junction with Pantin. Take the cracks to gain a ledge and spike belay.

3 80' 3b Climb the obvious broken corner on the L.

R Edwards, J Fletcher, 1966.

Puffin Direct Start 60 feet HVS 5b

The crack 6' R of the normal start leads past a bulge to the stance on top of the flake.

R Edwards, J Hutchinson, 1967.

Campion HVS 5a

Hang Ten (in the Green Room) 180 feet E6*

Climbs the blunt arête L of Puffin. Down and L of Puffin are some large blocks below a groove (Campion HVS). Start by a pinnacle up and L of these.

1 90' 6c Gain the top of the pinnacle and step on to the arête. Climb this on the R, past a PR to reach a second desperate slap to reach a good hold in a serious situation. Continue easily up the rib to a belay.

2 90' 4c Slabs and vegetated ledges lead to the top.

P Pritchard, C Waddy, 1988.
Might have been upgraded to E7 by Twid on the second ascent.

To the left of Hang Ten is an impressive orange-tinged wall taken by The Cruise. Left again is the towering continuation of this wall, cleft by the striking fissure of Winking Crack.

The Cruise 210 feet E5 ***

Excellent protection ensures the popularity of this fine crack. Scramble up right from the path to a nut belay in a corner.

1 120' 6b Climb the left arête to a small ledge beneath the crack. Follow the crack, 2 PRs, to a shake out just short of the chimney above. Climb the chimney.

2 90' 4c Slabs and vegetated ledges lead to the top.

D Durkan, P Sandell 1970 (aid route The Nod),

FFA J Moran, P Williams, J Sonczak, 1984

Cruise on through E6 6c

Direct on The Cruise. Follow The Cruise to the rest below the final pod. Thin moves out left past two pegs through the scoop lead to a break and a vertical crack that leads to the ledge.

Twid and Louise Thomas, ?year Pegs look very poor (rusty in June '07)

Noddy E4 6b
C Parkin & Frazer Ball climbed including pitch 3 free in 1991 the crux being the traverse right passing the old aid point (Rurp!!) at the time thought this was E46b good gear before traverse but big swing if **** up. Pic of line sent to Al Leary.

Winking Crack 220 feet E3 ***

Takes the striking cracks in the towering wall. Scramble up 30' to a good ledge below a short wall.

1 100' 5b Go up a short easy groove before moving L around the arête (start of The Cruise) to gain the obvious corner on the L. Climb this until a stance and block belay (old tapes in place) can be reached on the L.

2 120' 5c Walk to the left and climb the crack in the corner. Where the crack divides follow the L branch. At a small overhang move L then step back R following cracks to the final offwidth. Layback or thrutch, it's your choice!

J Brown, A Cowburn (6 pts) 1966

Blue Oyster Cult E3

Blind Pew E2

The Emotionary E4

lichenous

Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest 200 feet E4 *

Good climbing up pockets on the first pitch but a friable and serious second pitch. Scramble up to a ledge L of a short wall split by a crack, R of a corner.

1 80' 6a Move boldly L around the arête and go up to the first line of pockets. Continue in the same line with increasing difficulty until it is possible to move R to a ledge and pinnacle belay.

2 80' 5c From the top of the pinnacle climb the flaky crack until scary moves up and slightly R lead to a ledge.

3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.

M A Boysen, D E Alcock, D Jones (2 pts). FFA Unknown 1981.

The Horrorshow 200 feet E4 *

The excellent first pitch offers sustained, well protected climbing. Start with a 30' 4a scramble up a groove taking a belay beneath a corner (Crowbar).

1 80' 6a Climb the short crack in the R wall, then up R to a PR. Trend back L to another PR in the depths of a pocket. Follow the faint crackline to a PR high on the R, before a tricky move L gains a good hold above. Traverse R until moves up and R lead to a junction with Fifteen Men etc. in a corner on a sloping ledge.

2 80' 5b Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle/flake, PR. Follow the flaky crack to a ledge.

3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.

J Moran, A Evans(led pitch 3), G Milburn (1 pt) 1978, FFA R Fawcett 1980.

Crowbar E2

often damp - grassy

The Grim Reaper E3 6a

The left edge of the bay is bounded by a huge pinnacle known as Shag Rock.

Black Spot 180 feet HVS

A fairly serious route taking the shallow grooves up the L side of the bay. Start just R of Shag Rock.

1 80' 5a Climb the short steep wall then move rightwards onto a ledge. Follow a crack to a second ledge and peg belay.

2 100' 4c Go up the ramp on the L to gain a scoop leading to the top.

L E and L R Holliwell, 1967.

Bitter Days E1

Shag Rock 80 feet HVS 5a

Climbs the pinnacle starting inside the chimney behind, near its R side.Chimney up and pull up to a ledge on the arête. Climb this and take the last bit on the inside face, PR, with interesting moves to reach the summit. Descend by abseil.

M A Boysen, B Ingle, 1964

Shagorado E3 5c

spirals up Shag Rock.

Left of the Shag Rock pinnacle is the very popular Central Park wall. Left of centre is the stunning thin crack of The Strand.

Fifth Avenue 150 feet E1 *

Takes the groove up the R edge of the Central Park Wall. Start in the chimney formed by the L edge of the Shag Rock pinnacle.

1 130' 5b/c Chimney up until it is possible to to pull boldly into the groove running up and leftwards. Follow the groove over 2 bulges to a stance and peg belay.
Alternative description: into the bulging groove that runs up leftwards. Layback the groove to gain the upper ramp (crux). Follow sustained ramp / grrove past spike belay of Tequila Sunrise to a spike and old peg belay

2 20' 5b Climb the short wall above to the top. Scramble to belay at the back wall of the slope above.

M A Boysen, M Yates, 1966.

Tequila Sunrise 150 feet E2 5c

A dirty grass fest at present, but would clean up to give a reasonable route with a distinct crux.
Start at the base of the chimney as for Fifth Avenue.
Added: reasonably clean (July 2009) would benefit from more traffic. Enjoyable with a straightforward short crux section.
1 100' 5b Step left and climb to the top of the dirty flake. Ascend the grassy wall above, moving right onto the ramp of Fifth Avenue above the bulges.
2 50' 5c Move up and climb the steep crack in the right wall to a grassy exit onto the arete.
Al Evans, Jim Moran (alts) Dave Knighton 27/5/78

Times Square 160 feet E1 *

A direct line up the wall L of Fifth Avenue. Find a belay just above the short rocky traverse on the path and beneath a shallow groove. loose rock on first pitch, 2nd pitch appears held together by grass

1 130' 5a Keeping L, climb to the top of the grassy groove and move R to boldly climb some thin cracks. Climb a R trending groove above to a peg belay at the top of the groove on Fifth Avenue. - belay half way up ramp of 5th avenue.

2 30' 5a Go L from the belay and climb a series of flakes to a finish near the toop of Central Park. Belay here or, better, well up the slope above.
Alternative description: climb directly up the left trending groove, after about 20ft head up left on blocks to the ledge below the crack of street survivor P1 (wires) step right crux and follow thin cracks past some hollwo blocks/spikes to gain the right trending groove that leads to the spike belay of 5th avenue

F E R Cannings, D G Peers 1967. Pitch 2 F Cannings, T Lewis, 1969.

Street Survivor 175 feet E2

Start directly below the final crack of Central Park. Peg missing.

1 80' 4c Climb the wall and crack which leads directly up to the stance on Central Park. 2 95' 5c Move up the top crack of Central Park for a few moves then move L (awkward) to gain flakes out the wall, which are followed to a PR. The steep shallow groove above leads to the top. Belay way back.

D Knighton, J Tout 1978

Central Park 200 feet HVS **

Takes the obvious wide crack in the upper RH side of the wall. Start in the small niche on the L of the short rock traverse on the path.

1 100' 4c Climb the slabby wall on the L to reach a shallow groove. This leads to a ledge on the L. Move up R then take the obvious L trending line and steep groove to a wall. Go up this to an old PR below an overhung niche. Traverse R to belay beneath the wide crack.

2 100' 5a Climb the crack past a couple of tricky moves near the top to reach a ledge in niche. A belay can be set up here. Scramble up steps in the steep grass above to reach easy ground.

P Crew, D Alcock (alt, 10 pts) 1966.

Manor Park 190 feet E3 *

An intimidating first pitch and enjoyable second pitch. The crux is easier for tall climbers.

1 100' 5b Follow Central Park for 50' until it is possible to move R and climb a thin crack direct to the Central Park belay.

2 90' 6a Follow the obvious diagonal thin crack out L to a PR at 30'. Continue L to another PR at 80' and climb to the top with difficulty.

J Moran, D Knighton, A Evans, 27/5/78

Hyde Park E4

The Strand 160 feet E2 ***

Well protected sustained climbing up the striking crack on the brushed wall. Low in the grade. Start below, and a couple of metres L, of the crack.

1 140' 5b Climb up rightwards to reach the crack. Climb it to a peg belay below a short slab.

2 20' 4b Climb the broken slab above then follow steps up the steep grass to belay at the far back of the wall. (or ab off, most people do)

E Drummond (1 pt), 1967. FFA ?

Park Lane/Doomsville 180 feet E1 **

Start as for the Strand.

1 90' 5b Climb diagonally up R to the crack of The Strand. Follow a line of holds L to the bulge. Move L and up, then back R into the crack and continue to good PBs and a stance at the top of the flake.

2 70' Climb the narrow ramp on the R with difficulty (PR), then a short crack to a PB on the broken slab at the top of The Strand.

3 20' 4b As for the Strand pitch 2.

L E and L R Holliwell (pitch 1), A G Cram, M Yates, J Yates (pitch 2), 1967.

Park Lane E1

Pitches 2 & 3 have little merit and will be overgrown

Mayfair

Doomsville

Broadway

Transatlantic Crossing

The following routes start from the steep vegetated amphitheatre up and left of the Central Park Wall. It's difficult to get to so not popular.

Gladiator HVS 5a

Kira His E4 6a

Amphitheatre Wall HVS 4c

Mill Street Junction E1 5b

The Cracks HVS 5a

A fine route, making the dreadful approach almost worthwhile (maybe). Start on the left side of the bay beneath a system of clean cracks.
1 150' 5a Climb the cracks, medium and large friends useful.

There are a pair of Peregrines nesting on the belay ledge of The Cracks and Staying Alive at the moment, June '07, so probably best avoided. (Good views form the top of The Strand though)

Staying Alive E4 6a

Moving left from where the amphitheatre ends, the crag steepens and becomes more continuous. The broken grassy ramp running along the base gradually rises until it eventually sweeps up to divide the Upper Tier from the Main Cliff just beyond the corner of Bezel.

Ceilidh E2 5c

Mondo Hard E4 6a

Yellow Scar E1 5b

Monsoon E2
Takes a line to the left of Hurricane.
Twid, Simon Hale 2002

Hurricane E2 5c

The Gauntlet - Page 84 Gogarth North 165 feet HVS **

Start in a shallow groove directly below the crack/groove line L of the huge, yellow, rock fall scar.

1 70' 5a Climb the groove (PR) and over the bulge (crux) to better holds.Continue up until it is possible to move R up the steep wall to a small stance and PB.

2 70' 4b Up the groove on the L for 30', then R into another groove which leads to a PB on the R.

3 70' 4b Traverse L to finish up the steep corner crack. Belay well back.

P Crew, B Ingle (alt) 1964

The Gauntlet, which is one of the most popular routes on The Upper Tier of Gogarth, has been affected by a rock fall (albeit not actually on the route!). Well, on page 84 of the new Gogarth North book, the "scramble up and right for a further 10m to belay in a groove" , has suffered from a recent rock fall. A sizeable portion of the "solid" belay block has fallen off the cliff. It is still possible to use a small spike and some wire placements immediately left of the rock fall, but care is needed with shattered nature of the rock and the unstable turf above. It was always possible to take a stance at the top of the "classic corner pitch", although most of the placements were behind hollow flakes/blocks. Other options include continuing for approx 25m beyond the rock fall area, to various spikes and blocks http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=337722

Ziggurat E3 6a

The Ramp 180 feet HVS **
Appears to have suffered rock fall, top out very loose.

Takes the steep grey ramp up the wall L of the Gauntlet. Start at a pinnacle below the ramp.

1 100' 5a Climb the pinnacle then step R to a ledge (can be hazardous during nesting season!). Up the corner (PR at 20') then climb the slab to some spikes on the L. Pass the bulge in the corner (crux) and continue to a large spike at the top of the ramp. Traverse easily L to belay below a steep corner.

2 80' 4c Climb to the top of the crack in the corner. Make a blind move R into a bottomless chimney (airy and tricky) and up this more easily to finish.

P Crew, J Baldcock, 1966

Energy Crisis 190 feet E5 ***

A strenuous route with a fine sustained first pitch. Start beneath the RH of two wide cracks a little left of The Ramp.

1 90' 6a Climb the crack direct to belay on The Ramp.

2 100' 5b From the righthand end on the ledge go right into a bottomless groove. Go up and step left to a thin crack. This leads to a slabby groove on the left which is followed to the top.

P Whillance, D Armstrong, 1978.

Afreet Street 170 feet E5

Start beneath the lefthand of two wide cracks a little left of The Ramp.

1 90' 6a Climb narrow slabs until it is possible to enter the crack on the right. Climb this to the stance on The Ramp.

2 80' Climb shallow cracks above, finishing up chimney.

E Drummond 1969 (4pts), FFA R Fawcett 1980

Gael's Wall 150 feet E3 5c

Juggy blob hauling and pinching up the wall between Afreet Street and Fail Safe. Start as for Afreet Street, stepping left onto the ramp of Fail Safe. Follow the curving undercut feature, past a good small wire, then go straight up the wall to an obvious large chickenhead ledge. An exciting mantle onto this leads to a groove and flared crack which takes you to the exit move of Fail Safe and its belay. The second pitch of Energy Crisis gives a balanced finish.

Tim Neill, Jon Garside, Sue Savage. (31/5/02).

Fail Safe 170 feet E2 *
Takes the wall L of Afreet Street. Powerful climbing with some long reaches and a difficult exit from the top of the first pitch. Protection is adequate but not generous. Start beneath the LH of two wide cracks a little L of The Ramp.

1 90' 5b Climb narrow slabs, past a quartz spike, to reach the OH, many slings required. Move R (hard) and climb small ledges to gain the belay on The Ramp.

2 80' 5a Finish up The Ramp pitch 2.

D Alcock, P Crew (alt), 1966.

The Eternal Optimist 150 feet E2 *

A good route on reasonable holds which takes the steep corner crack running up to an OH above the foot of the slab which defines the L end of the Upper Tier. Start beneath the crack.

1 120' 5b Steeply up the lower wall to the base of the crack. Climb this using large holds on the L wall and make a tricky move over the OH. Continue more easily to a good ledge on the L.

2 30' 4b Finish up the crack just L of the belay.

A Sharp, S Humphries, 1975

Cartwheel E2 5b
Al Evans, Jim Moran 5/7/78

Bezel 160 feet VS *

Start at the end of the path at the foot of a curving groove a few feet L of the Eternal Optimist.

1 50' 4b Climb a small pinnacle on the L to reach a diagonal crack in the slab up R. Cross the slab on the L and up to a small ledge below the groove - PBs.

2 80' 5a Surmount the bulge and follow the groove above until it is possible to move R to a stance.

3 30' 4b Finish up a short crack on the L to the top.

B Ingle, P Crew 1964

Slow Dancer E1 5a

FA Jim,Moran, Al Evans 5/7/78

Sulcus 140 feet VS (?) 5a

Follow the obvious crack in the arête L of Bezel. Start from the pinnacle of Bezel.

Follow the crack as far as the OH and move L around it into a niche. Step L then go up to spike belays. Finish up broken ground.

R Holliwell, J Fitzgerald, 1969.

The Underground

A girdle traverse of the Upper Tier. E.Drummond

Rolla Costa

Suspender

New Routes List

The_Third — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 15:29:35 CDT

GOGARTH NEW ROUTES

The Upper Tier

Dead and Bloated E6 6c 35m.

A direct finish to Strike. Safe. Follow Strike to the shake out. Step right and climb the wall past 4 pegs to a difficult exit onto the sloping top. Finish easily.

G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (7/7/94).

Sex and Religion E7 6c 35m.

The obvious left hand finish to Blackleg. Sustained climbing with poor protection. More serious then Panorama. Follow Blackleg past the flakes to a good nut placement. Move up and left to a poor peg. Continue with difficulty to gain the vertical crackline above and follow this to join Strike. Finish up this.

G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (26/7/93). (on-sighted by Caff, 2003).

Blackleg - worth E5 6a (P.R).

Barbarossa - Peg gone, now a lot bolder (P.R & Caff).

NoddyB.Bransby freed aid point on Noddy, years ago, but rested higher up. Chris Parkin freed Pitch 3 with Frazer Ball in mid 1990's gave it E46a/b The traverse past the aid peg (was a rurp) leads to top of Cruise nowhere near Winking Crack. CP & FB prob 1st free ascent pre dating BB, - peg /rurp not crucial as good highgear is available before traverse.

Peg missing on Street Survivor.

Afreet Street - worth E5 (P.R). C Parkin comment: If this is E5 Blackleg is still E6 the minimal pro is suspect

Greg's Wall (?) E3 5c 53m.

Tim Neill, Jon Garside, Sue Savage. (31/5/02).

Main Cliff

Achilles E3 50m.

The obvious crack left of Diogenes. Start as for Diogenes.1 10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.2 40m. 5c. Climb the crack to a big flake at 17m. Step right and make hard moves to gain a wide crack, which leads strenuously to the final moves of Diogenes.

Pat Littlejohn, John Mothersele. (9/91).

Coming on Strong E6 50m.

The immaculate orange face left of Archilles. Sustained climbing in the upper part. Start as for Diogenes.1 10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.2 40m. 6b/c. Climb the slabby face left of Archilles, then bear right till beside the big flake on that route. Move left and up a groove to an overhang, then break back right to a rest spot. Climb the twin cracks left of Archilles to a peg, then launch up left on a shallow ramp to another thin crack. Pull past the bulge on the right until good holds lead up the final face.

Pat Littlejohn, Mark Diggins. (10/91).

Lardvark E3 6a 37m.

Start up Imitator to small overlap. Surmount it and climb a little finger crack to join Aardvark just below it's crux. Do this and continue straight up a thin crack above to the top.

M.Crook, Rich Cutler. (6/93).

Return to Garth Gog E4

1 23m. 6a. Climb the overhanging crack in the front face of the Gogarth Pinnacle. Well protected but strenuous.2 6a. Start in the crack of Falls Road and after 8 metres, climb up and right via sloping holds to the right hand side of a sloping ledge.3 4c. Ramble and climb to the base of Gogarth, pitch 4 (the big corner).4 50m. 5c. Climb the obvious flaky crack to its junction with the top pitch of Gogarth. Finish as for Gogarth.

M.Turner, L.Thomas, Graham MacMahan. (11/94).

Eraserhead - 2nd pitch is about 20m and easy E6. (P.R)

Wall of Fossils - First pitch worth 6b, second pitch is crap and very eliminate (P.R & Caff).

Mammoth - Direct Finish

3 40m. 6a. Up the short wall as for Dinosaur, then go straight up the open corner above and continue direct to the top.Eddie Cooper, P.Littlejohn. (21/5/95).

Extinction E8 6b 30m

Takes the wall right of Hunger. Climb the wall immediately left of the chimney (Mammoth Direct) until it is possible to move left and up to a flake with good runners. Move left along the obvious line to a spike and runner, crux moves lead straight up to another spike and then to a peg where improving holds lead up past the roofs to a wild finish.

Steve Mayers (25/4/91).

(Climbed ground-up over a few days by Stuart Cameron and confirmed at E8, 26/7/93,Still one of the few ground up E8 ascents in the UK).

Food E6 6b 30m

Start up Graduation Ceremony and climb direct up the awesome groove, through a roof (last gear), and left on to the rib and up this to the Citadel Belay.

Paul Prichard, Ben Prichard. (on-sight).

Drink E5 6b 27m.

This pitch is the obvious second pitch to Food. From the sloping ledge at the base of the main pitch of Big Groove, climb up the next groove to the right, going left into a niche after a bit, then back right to the original groove and up to the top.

A.Wainwright, C.Waddy. (on-sight). (27/5/92).(Amendment: Hold come off, making it E6 and it is now necessary to climb up the right side of the groove, instead of moving left as first described - Adam Wainwright).

Food and Drink E6 6b,6b

Combination of the above. G. Farquhar and N. Craine, 1993

Sebastopol - on 2nd pitch, traversing left to arête is hard. Going back right is easy. (P.R)

Graduation Ceremony worth E5.

The Tet Offensive - 2nd pitch worth 6a and bold (P.Littlejohn?)

The Wastelands - new 2nd pitch description:2 6a. This pitch climbs the very hairy wall to the left of The Big Groove. Trend up and left on good holds to some flakes. Step right into a thin crack and make difficult moves, poor peg, to a junction with Puzzle Me Quick. Ascend the left-facing groove and exit right, around the arête, onto the hairy slab. Escape right into The Big Groove, nut belay.

On the 3rd pitch of Morphine, climb 2m right of Pentathol, not 5m.

The Night Prowler HVS 45m.

1 8m. 4c. As for Scavenger, pitch 1.2 37m. 5a. Follow Scavenger Direct for 16 metres to an obvious overlap. Step up and left to the base of a steep crack which is followed on good holds un

til it is possible to step left into the bottom of the Nightride chimney/groove. Finish up this.Pete Greening, Nick Sharp. (5/7/95).

Easter Island Gulley

Catalogue Man's Big Adventure E3 5c 33m.

Essentially a left hand finish to Rotten Gut. Climb up Rotten Gut to the yellow rock then break left and make a gnarly move over a roof. Continue on suspect rock for 7m and step left before a wall of green lichen. Finish up adjacent E1.

Mat Smith, Ray Saunders. (21/5/94)

.
The Ragged Runnel E5 6a 50m.

A good adventure through 'territory'. Ascend the first pitch of Wandering wall, free climbing past the fishing rod manoeuvre (possible stance here). Arrange some protection and battle with the roof. Place some more good gear round on the wall above before the legs collapse, then go up the shattered **** to a rest on a tiny ledge. Continue up the disintegrating scoop above past a possible spike belay. The top requires some care. (It would be possible to escape onto the Wonderwall side of the zawn after the easier ground is reached). Belay well back on the path down to the zawn. The route in no way supersedes Wandering Wall, it is merely an alternative exploit for those without fishing rods.

G.Smith. (on-sight, completely in bulk). (28/8/91).

Wen Slab Area

Variation to the second pitch of A Dream of White Horses. E1 5a.Descend from the second belay (first belay for the shorter variation) for 5 metres whilst completely ignoring the obvious line of holds which constitute the actual route! When halfway down to the Wen ledge, notice a tenuous line of white flakes leading leftwards. Climb on frail rock with laughable protection until you reach the corner. Go up this to meet the third pitch of 'Deram', one third of the way along, passing a dodgey hanging flake. Belay.(2/9/95).

Rubble E7 83m.

The softest route in the world. The concrete chimney that Concrete Chimney climbs 3m of. The most obvious line at Gogarth.1 33m. 6a. Super step out of the cave at the bottom on the finest of Welsh pebble dashing. Move left out of the concrete to belay at the end of T-Rex, pitch 1. Appalling protection.2 27m. 6a. Follow T-Rex to the huge ceiling and go through the right end of this past the hanging flange of death (crucial RP 1) to join Concrete Chimney and belay.3 23m. 5a. Done before - E1 chimney in sensational position.

Paul Prichard, Leigh McGinley (AL). (on-sight). (10/91).

Games Climbers Play, Original Start - Bold start, worth E6 6b. (Twid & P.R)

(It's a) Broad Church E6/7

1 6a. Start at a groove left of the start of Games Climbers Play. Go up the groove to a bulge. Swing left and go up to a peg belay.2 6b. Hard work allows progress up the groove, past a peg and a worthog, to a rest. Reluctantly carry on and swing right to belay on Games Climbers Play.3 5c. Climb up, over a bulge, to a belay on the slab on A Dream of White Horses.4 6a. Go up and left and pull through a roof (just left of The Golden Bough Finish) to gain the top.

Nick Dixon, Noel Craine (AL). (2/5/97).(Reliant on in-situ gear and carabiners: E6 if good, E7 if not - P.R & B.Bransby)
Variation left hand first pitch to Broad Church - F.A: N.Dixon. (No details).

Mister Softy E6 80m

A fine outing up the back wall of the zawn. Start at the base of the obvious pillar approximately 10m left of T Rex.1 15m. 5b. Climbs the obvious pillar to a small overlap. Pull over this into a decomposing groove and follow this to a disappointing stance, old pegs.2 40m. 6b. Move left into a groove (passing 2 old pegs) and climb up and right onto a hanging slab. Follow this to more old pegs, rest. Weird moves leftwards and upwards bail round an arête into a groove. Follow this, where angels tread to fear. Upwards and leftwards to join the Janitor finish, halfway along it's traverse. Belay here.3 25m. 6a. Climbs the obvious groove above to a deep slot. Traverse recklessly leftwards to a short hanging groove. From the top of this, exit rightwards onto the Dream of White Horses slab. Finish up this with disconcerting difficulty

.A.Wainwright, G.Smith (AL). (ground up). (30/8/94).

The Mad Brown E7

A fabulous expedition up the loosness left of Mister Softy. None of the pitches are excessively serious or difficult.1 6a/b. Climb the first 7 metres of Mister Softy to a large fin. Swing round left and cross the wall on good holds to gain a straight crack leading to a roof. Surmount this to gain a wide crack and good resting holds. Traverse left and stupidly enter the huge hole. Belay on in-situ ice pegs and a cam 4.2 6b. Move out left, peg runners, and grasp a suitcase shaped thread block. Good holds lead up to a crack. Slap for the short arête on the left and gain the slab above with difficulty. In-situ ice peg belay and some arbitrary cams etc.3 5b. Follow the Conan traverse to belay on the in-situ thread, just right of the pegs. Good belay.4 6a. Follow the top pitch of Mister Softy for 7 metres, up the wide-open groove to a good spike and arrange protection. Step down and swing left round a fin to gain diagonal cracks. Go up to an obvious hand jam and left into a niche, peg runners. Exit the niche, left to attain a sloping boss. Cross the headwall leftwards for 5 metres to better holds in the mosail choss. Go straight up the shallow groove in obscure holds to the roof. Surmount this in a position of sensational rope drag.

G.Smith, A.Wainwright (AL). (1996).Notes: The first two pitches would be difficult to escape from. One possibility would be to trail an abseil rope, though this may dislodge loose stuff from the lip, without great care.

Conan the Librarian - Janitor's Finish worth E6 6b,6a.

Conan the Librarian E7

2a 36m. 6b. The original 2nd pitch now climbed free past the pegs but then a finish slightly leftwards was made to avoid area of rockfall (utilising the stance on The Unridable Donkey, which has now been cleaned up, is probably the best option).

Steve Mayers, Grant Farquhar (1992)

The Undertaker E7 6c

A direct start to Conan the Librarian, starting 7m around to the right of the original, under the arch. Belay on a ledge, accessible approximately 2hrs after high tide. It takes the obvious wide crack until a swing left on a spike can be made to a peg which can be backed up by RP's. Swing out wildly across the roof to gain the base of the Conan groove and continue as for that route.

Steve Mayers, Grant Farquhar. (1992).

Instant Van Goch E5 6b 23m.

A delightful trip up the painted wall, underneath Wen Zawn arch (faces west). From the 'dam', step onto the wall and climb diagonally left on magnificent holds to a good rest. Venture up and right, past two pegs, to gain an enormous undercling. From this, lunge for the very dubious looking block and continue in the same line leftwards to a huge spike. Lower off. Magnificent varied climbing and so forth.

G.Smith, James Harrison. (1996).

The Criptic Rift

The Wild Underdog E7 6b/c

The flake line right of Evidently Chickentown. Start up that route, follow the chimney to the bulge at it's crux. Step down and right for 3 metres to a ridiculous 1m2 slab on the arête. Grasp the huge flake and bar relentlessly into the hanging groove. Loosely ascend this to a large thread in the roofs above. A remarkable route.

G.Smith. (7/96).

Evidently Chickentown - (Hard for E5, confusing route description but good - B.Bransby)

Friday's Extendable Arms E2 5c

A useful and exciting alternative start to Britomartis when the state of the sea would involve an enema climbing round into the groove from the ledge. Start in the base of The Trap. Move left to a hold on the left arête and continue steeply on good holds to the ledge (joining Gobbler's Arête). Continue up to the second diagonal ledge and move left around the arête to find an immaculate hand traverse leading across the face to join Britomartis about halfway up it's first pitch.

Nick Arding, Dave Pearce. (10/10/03).

The Sad Cow E3 6a

A direct finish to Vend-T, which takes the obvious pink wall to the ledge left (right?) of Britomartis. Follow Vent-T to the point where it strikes up forcefully to the ledge. Step right on small flakes and climb directly, crux, to reach better holds and a little crack. Finish slightly left to the large ledge.

Me(?) and George, (5/91).

Billy Bud E6 6b 17m

.A good steep pitch with perfect rock and protection. Abseil down to the island underneath Spiders Web arch. Pendulum into the cliff and clip an in-situ (?) nut. From here, go rightwards under the roof for more gear - pull round the roof and deal with the leaning crack above. Pull over a bulge and grab the 'handle' (don’t use this feature for a thread as it will break - good wires instead). The next bulge is easier, continue up Spider Wall to a belay, with difficulty.

G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1991).

The 4th Dimension E7 6b/c 27m.

Start from the island (the 'whale') underneath Spiders Web, gained by abseil from the top. Use the abseil rope to pendulum onto the wall, as for Heinous Flytrap. Follow Heinous Flytrap leftwards for 3 metres until obvious good holds lead rightwards through steep rock to an in-situ thread. Difficult moves lead leftwards to another in-situ thread. A flake on the left side of a roof leads to good holds and a vague easing of angle. It is possible to step left here into a niche and get a good shake out. Once rested, or bored, climb up rightwards to a large undercut block thing, runners and kneebars. Clip a peg on the right and make hard moves past this rightwards, crux, to gain the slab of Britomartis. A quality pitch on very good rock. Steep and safe.

A.Wainwright. (16/7/96).

Heinous Flytrap E7

Takes the left arête of the wall, then large roof crack under Barfly. Start from 'the whale' (see appendix A). Swing into the groove in the middle of the steep wall (on a rope).1 17m. 6b. Climb the groove to its top then out left along the obvious undercuts (etc) to a technical kneebar crossover crux (with a 'Greek kick' if you want) and on up large flakes to belay where it eases at jugs in a slight recess with a small spike.2 10m. 6b. Continue up a short crack on the left, then swing out left onto a huge flake and duck round and under and then move up to belay at the left hand end of the obvious large roof crack.3 13m. 6b. Follow the crack rightwards to lip.4 20m. 4c. Easier to top.

C.Waddy, G.Smith (AL). (Ground-up stylee, except top pitch which was red-pointed on gear).

Appendix A - Access, comfort and escape.Abseil straight down to the route from a thread under a boulder above the wall, clipping into the top two bits of in-situ gear on the not yet finished "4th Dimension & how to get there". This enables the swing to the groove to be made easily from the whale-like island. However, it's best to belay on it. The 2nd is a very uncomfortable hanging belay. If the belayer lowers off, with the rope clipped into separate runners, then one can, by pulling on alternative ropes, set up a swing that allows a good ledge, about 7m up Spiders Web, to be gained. This is a much more comfortable belay. This method also allows escape to be made. The second can then prussuk (only about15m) to regain the route.

Appendix B - Tides and seepage.The island seems to remain above water at high neap tides, unless it is rough. However, it may be hard to swing into the route at this state of the tide.The 1st pitch is often dampish at the bottom in the morning, but this bit isn't too bad.

Spiders Web (free) E5 68m.

A thrilling trip with some awkward moves. Good gear, standard rack.1 5c. Pitch one is pegless and tough.2 6b. Bridge the chimney to its top. Extend the web with sling. Bridge down to the lip. Reverse arm bar a slot, good wire #1. Swing out across the lip and layback vigorously.3 5a. ..and so on.

G.Smith, T.Bonner. (6/91).

Bar Fly E6/7 6b

From the base of Spiders Web chimney, swing out across the straight crack leading towards the lip of the Web. Finish at a spike in a groove. Wires, cams. E6 in bone dry conditions, E7 in the usual Wen Zawn conditions. Best visited at the end of the day, when it comes into the sun.

G.Smith. (6/91).

The Boston Struggler E5 70m.

1 23m. 5c. Climb pitch 1 of Blowout, then layback flakes leading out leftwards from the huge wide chimney left of Spiders Web. Belay at the arête.2 13m. 6b. Swing into the wild roof slot and jam round the lip with more gambling bars than Monte Carlo. Belay in the groove above.3 34m. 5c. Swing round right and climb the gently overhanging scoop of knobs and flakes above the Web, finishing rightwards. Bit loose.

G.Smith, D.Kendall. (6/91).

Forgery E5 6b 34m.

As one descends to Spiders web, one passes a smooth North Stack like wall, which one may be tempted to test ones fingers upon. Start in the middle of the wall. Take RP's etc.Gain a ledge at 3 metres and climb a short left facing corner to a thin flake which leads quite boldly, to a square roof, thread. Go right around this, crux, and traverse left across the lip to a groove, bold. Climb this and a vague rib till trending left gains a peg on another route.

C.Waddy, J,Vlasto. (7/89).(Better maybe, having gone round the roof, step right, hard, to an easy flake)

Will Mawr is left of Genflux, not right.

Kraken VS 4c
Climbs the crack left of Ipsofacto.
P.A.James, A.Leary (April 2008)

Mustang - worth VS 4c.

Carol VS

Climbs the vague crack 5m right of Mr. Seal. Go up the crack to a ledge and bear left. A step right gains a quartz jug and the top.

J.Dalton, F.Williams. (11/4/90).

Miura is not VS and has been superseded completely by The Tail (worth E3 5c - takes the 3rd groove along the ledges, not the 2nd) and the following route:

Huncho E2 5bQuite a serious pitch. This takes the shallow groove 3m left of The Tail. Climb the groove, bold, to a bulge, lots of poor runners. Move up carefully to gain easier ground. Finish up left, blind but excellent rock.

M.Crook, A.Newton. (18/4/94).

A much better way of climbing Maverick is:Flooze VS 4c 37m.An excellent pitch, at its grade. Start as for Maverick. Climb up leftwards around the shallow arête and up into a shallow groove. Climb as directly upwards as possible, bold, on excellent holds, on the strange rock, steep, to reach the top. Belay well back.D.Ferguson, C.Brown. (1993).

Flytrap Area

Six White Boomers VS 4c 33m.

Start between Mordor and Colditz just right of some black spikes. Climb easily up cracks to a ledge, move steeply left to a left slanting niche and pull over a bulge into the groove above. Follow this and move left at the top to finish up the front of the buttress.

Dave Furguson, James McQueen. (7/5/94).

Roof Rack E7 6c 17m.

The roof above Seal Song. From a belay on the outer face of the Seal Song fin, go up to the break. Tug across the roof, passing good pegs (average peg near the lip). The crack above is eight grades easier but seems very difficult none the less.

G.Smith, attempts over several years I'm afraid. (1995).

The Porcelain Arena E6 50m.

An exceedingly traditional route, starting left of the cave and finishing at a giant chockstone, via the back of the cave. Start round ton the right of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.1 6b. Ascend the initial chimney of The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes, then traverse right to the arête. Gain a slanting crack up and right with difficulty. This widens to a strenuous and awkward vice/pod which in turn leads to the roof of the cave. Belay.2 5c. Either throw yourself into the sea, or arrange protection and traverse the wall to a point where it is possible to bridge the width of the zawn (or continue along the wall) to the top of the flytrap chockstone. An atmospheric pitch.3 20m. 4b. As for Flytrap, pitch 3.

G.Smith, Simon Melia. (2003).

The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes - E6 6b - No details.F.A: G.Smith

The Ultraviolet Exterminator - E7? - No details.F.A: G.Smith

Lola E3/4 5c/6a 20m.

Start 7 metres to the left of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, just right of The Hitcher. Climb up and right to gain a small triangular, then follow slim grooves to overlaps which lead to easier climbing and a break. Finish up the obvious compact headwall. The crux is about 10 metres up, above deep water at high tide and the rest of the route is fine. A very good solo (though a right hand start from 20,000… may be safer).

C.Waddy (solo). (2002?).Done before by Dai Lampard and Twid.

The Hitcher - worth E1 5a/b.

Jug Patrol E1

This takes the flake crack some 3m left of The Hitcher, starting about 15m right of the highpoint on the traverse from Parliament House Cave.1 23m. 5b. Climb the steep pink flake to reach good holds and a ledge beneath the less steep wall. Move left and surmount the bulge, climbing gradually left to reach a niche on Route 66, ledge.2 20m. 4c. Climb the crack above the belay with care to reach the grassy slopes above. Belay on the abseil rope or blocks above.

M.Crook, A.Newton. (17/4/94).

Skippy E1 45m.

Between Jug Patrol and Oijee Wall is a left slanting chimney. Start 3 metres left of this.1 25m. 5b. Climb the wall left of the chimney up to a groove. Climb this to an overlap and make steep moves over it to belay on the ledge system of Route 66.2 20m. 4c. Take the slab above on big flakes to a grassy finish. Belay on blocks.

Tony Morley, Dave Ferguson. (8/4/97).

North Stack

Touching Cloth E1 35m.

On the big wall opposite North Stack wall. Start in a huge-ish chimney that faces south (I think). From 7m up this, go right to a crack, which leads to a recess. Continue from the left hand side of this up a crack to the top.

C.Waddy. (5/90).

Pigs in Space A4A direct start to Black Rod from The Big Overhang pedistal. Traverse from the top of The Big Overhang start pillar, to the knackered tat below the belay of Black Rod. Bloody desperate and total death should one placement fail.Estimated time: 3hrs.Ropes, hooks and Bottoming K.B's behind loose blocks.

James Howel, Dave Anderson. (1992?).

The Wrath of Deadly Lampshade E5 6a/b 27m.

The obvious cracks left of Le Bon Sauveur, are hard for 17m then more easily lead up the left hand side of the large overhang.

Alister Hopkins, George Smith. (5/91).

Drug Buddy VS 4c 25m.

Climbs the chimney/groove to the right (looking out to sea) of End Game. Bridge up the chimney until it is possible to pull onto the slabby wall on the left, then climb the wall and groove to the top.

P.Greening. (5/12/95).(May have been climbed by Nigel and Barbara Jones a few years before - AW).

(Don't know where next routes start - P.R)

The Jigs Up E5 6a 23m.

Start as for Rickety Fence Route at a hanging belay on the arête. Move up the groove in the arête to holds below the first bulge. These lead leftwards onto the overhanging face. Climb a fragile flake to a rest at its top, then sprint straight up to the top.

G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

Rickety Fence Route HSS 5c/6a 27m.

(Can't read description)

G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

Tsumami Zawn area

To the right (looking in) of Tsunami Zawn (maybe) is another bay. Right again is a Tibia shaped arête, left of a roofed square groove. Right again is slabby easy ground, running to sea level.

God's Bone XS 6b 10m.

This arête has no relevant gear, but can be climbed on its left side. At high tide it is a safe solo.C.Waddy. (1996).

Tsumami (free) E4/5

1 5a.As described.2 4c. As described.3 5b. Traverse across the wall to belay in a wide crack. Loose and serious.4 5b. Scary moves up the groove then out right. Very loose and very serious.

Will Perrin (pitch 4), Peter Robins (pitch 3). (6/2001).

SOUTH STACK

On the sea level traverse between the Loathsome Cleft and the Upper Tier, there is a through cave. Facing its northern end is a steep red wall. Around to the left is a slab in a corner - the easiest way out.

The Sweet Smell of Excess XS

1 32m. 5b. Climb a short wall on the left to a step onto the slab. Climb the corner to a roof then step out rightwards to a ledge. Move up to a better ledge beneath the steep wall. Climb this leftwards up to some loose rock and move up to easier ground and broken ledges on the left. Good belay.2 50m. 5a. It would be pointless to describe the next 7 metres since it is temporary edifice in a state of flux. Above this the vegetation is only just beginning to re-establish itself after the fire of a few years ago, the ground being a fine shifting dust. Climb upwards for nearly 40 metres to a flat, white boulder. Take a stance behind this, buttocks firmly clenched around a small gorse bush. Destined to become a classic!

H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1/7/00).

Harry and Ida Swap Teeth E2 5b 30m.

The loathsome cleft which contains FEU123ELF. Continue down below that route to the beach. The route follows a leftwards rising band of red rock on the north promontory of the zawn, bounded on the left and right by slabs. Traverse 20 metres from beach to ledges below the steep red rock, not easy.Climb up steeply on weathered brown rock to a ledge. Traverse left and up to a cleanly cracked block. Above and left, the terrain becomes steeper and leads to a headwall, topped by a small overhang. From below this, move rightwards onto a slab and up for 5 metres to belay on top of the pinnacle.

Howard Jones, Gill Lovick.

100 metres further left from Trinity House Wall, a cliff comes down at right angles. In it's upper half, it has wide cracks rising rightwards to the hillside. Below these are flaky overhangs and lower still are three diagonal cracks, which reach down to ledges above high tide.

Sea Pig E3 50m.

1 25m. 5c. Start on the ledge. Follow a narrow ramp for 5 metres to an overlap and go rightwards past this and onto the wall. Use the upper and middle cracks to climb up to the roof, all pleasant and well protected. Climb upward to a higher flake line and right to the arête. Using an undercling pinch, a sidepull and a groin strain, to reach a belay on the face, shared with an irate Razor Bill.2 25m. 5b. Wide chimney cracks lead rightwards, the rock and protection getting progressively worse, until reaching a rising slab on the right. Step across to the slab and tiptoe up it to grass. Belay in a corner, 5 metres further up.

Ian Wilson, P.Thomas, Neil ? (1994).(Claimed by Glenda and Howard as Five Bellies in 1997).

Skull Zawn

Corner left of Sea Witch - E5 5c (F.A: A.Wainwright) No details.

Wall left of Sea Witch - E5 6a (F.A: G.Huxter) No details.

Trinity House Walls

Kareoke Bar E6 6b

The wall right of Scud. Climb the first crack past a peg, rest. Attack the twin cracks and pull over onto a slab (interesting). Top out on a good ledge.

M.Turner. (8/91).

Scud E3 5c/6a

Obvious groove/corner line left of The Hood. Climb groove/corner until forced onto arête. Shoot up this to belay.

Ian Wilson (Wraith), Yob, Shagger. (Summer/91).

El Presidente E5 6b 27m.

The left hand overhanging thin crack of the wall, left of Twid's E5. 1 blue peg low down and 1 angle at 10 metres. Strenuous and unnerving, but an ace route.

P.Prichard, G.Smith. (29/7/96).

Idlevice E5 6b 40m.

Climbs the soaring crack, left of Scud, direct to a good ledge.

M.Turner. (8/91).

Friend or Anenome E4 6a 35m.

As for The Hood to the top of the continuation groove. Move left at the hanging arête and climb directly to the top. Nice positions.

Owain Jones, M.Turner (on-sight). (29/7/91).

The Hood E2 36m.

This route lies about 200m to the left of The Man From Uncle at an obvious corner above a steep crack (groove capped by a small roof).1 18m. 5c. Gain the square cut groove, go over a bulge, and up to the roof, good gear. Move out awkwardly right to gain the continuation groove and go up to below the top corner.2 18m. 5b. Climb the corner on very South Stack rock, to the top. Belay up on the grass.

Andy Newton, Ian Wilson (Wraith), (AL). (14/5/91).

Walking the Plankton E5 6a 35m.

The fine hanging corner, right of The Hood. Climb the obvious corner to its top. Move right to beneath corner, runners in break. Gain corner by scary rising traverse right to get lodged in the groove. Climb this (cam # 1 & peg) to roof exit left.

Owain Jones, Andy Farnell. (2/8/91).

International Rescue HVS 5b 35m.

Start halfway between The Hood and Mr Waverley. Climb the corner to gain good holds at the base of a wide blind crack. Awkward moves gain a good ledge (cam 4). Move right and up an overlap and thin slab to gain good holds again. Move 4m right to join Mr Waverley. Climb 3m up this then go left up a short slab (possible belay) to finish by climbing onto the hanging arête in a good position. Belay well back, large cams.

Andy Newton, Jim Wyllie. (20/6/91).

Mr Waverley HVS 5a 40m.

The wall right of The Hood contains a number of cracks and grooves. Climb the 2nd crack line right of The Hood pleasantly to reach a good ledge, possible belay, good runners on the left. Finish up weird rock in a good position.

Andy Newton, Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault. (13/6/91).

Freu Cowgirls get the Blues HVS

Climbs the most continuous crack, right of Mr Waverley.1 25m. 5b. Climb the crack, past a hard move at half height, to a ledge below the final bulges.2 10m. 4c. Go leftwards through the bulges on good holds to finish up a short groove type thing. Belay, gear on the left.

Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley (AL), Liz Wade. (26/7/91).

Start Me Up HVS 5a 47m.

The line starting some 3 metres right of Freu Cowgirls get the Blues.1 34m. 5a. Go over bulges to belay 3 metres below the top of the corner of Parker.2 13m. 4b. Climb up the corner and move left then up. Step across to a belay

.Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley (AL). (7/8/91).

Parker E2/3 5c 47m.

Right of Start Me Up and left of the landing from the abseil is a black, white streaked, corner. Climb the left arête of the corner, hard for the short, and continue to the top in the obvious continuation corner line, rather more easily.

Leigh McGinley, Andy Newton. (7/8/91).

Catch a Fire E1 5b 43m.

4 metres right of the black corner, take the crack line to the small roof at 6m. Pull rightwards through this and carry on up, over bulges, in the same line to exit around about the abseil boulder.

Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley. (7/8/91).

Rapping VS 4b 43m.

Climb the groove right of the abseil landing and trending slightly left. Climb the abseil line to the boulder over various bulges and ledges.

Leigh McGinley (solo). (26/7/91).

Thunderbird Zawn

The Flying Shed E5 6a 30m.

The obvious shed like cave thing left of Stingray. Climb up the back on huge flakes, possible belay. Bridge out across the 13 metre roof, round the lip and up the short wall. An utterly magnificent route. Large gear recommended.

G.Smith (on-sight). (1997).

Crack Eats Man Alive! E6

The obvious bottom left/top right diagonal fault line through the cave. Start further in the cave, left of Stingray.1 6b. Surmount a flake and ascend a groove slot. Very awkward. Belay at the end of the roof.2 6b. Cross the offwidth roof into a groove. Go right into a further groove to belay.3 6a. Ascend the groove and continue rightwards along the fault line to a wild swing around the arête. Belay on the slab.4 4c. Easily up the wall.

G.Smith. (1996).

The Prisoner E1/2 40m.

Takes a line into Thunderbird buttress from the right.1 25m. 5a. Start on the slab below and right of Thunderbird at a good flake crack. Climb the weakness and go up to a steepening, before moving left across the bottomless corner to gain a hanging wall/groove. Go left around the arête, spectacular, before moving up and around into the slabby hanging groove. Cross the slab to the corner and go up weirdness to construct a belay below a steep groove.2 15m. 5a. Climb the friable overhanging groove by a series of caterpillar-like gyrations and finish up and across.

Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault, Andy Newton. (13/6/91).

The Man From Uncle E1 5a 27m.

This takes the front face of the thin buttress to the left of the cave below thunderbird and opposite the arch. Climb the buttress by two crack running up the face and trend around steeply left where the cracks lead. Finish back right and up. Nice climbing.

Ian Wilson (Wraith), Andy Newton. (14/5/91).

Follower of Hopeless Causes E7

Start on the opposite side of the arch to Archie is Angry, at low tide. Abseil from the top of the arch.1 20m. 6a. Climb the wall to the obvious notch on the arête.2 6b. Traverse 20 metres left, just above the lip of the arch, passing various pegs (mostly rust free Titian) to a hanging stance on the left hand side, at a good crack and peg.3 15m. 6b. Move up and lunge right to another peg. Climb up passing two more pegs to an exciting finish.

M.Turner, L.Thomas. (Took four years to complete). (14/9/95).

Archie is Angry E6 6c 37m.

The first arch one comes to when approaching Thunderbird zawn from the South Stack steps. Climb the side of the arch facing the South Stack Island. Abseil down the outside to sea level then traverse right to the archway. Hard moves across the lip of arch gain a good jug, good wire. Climb straight up through the roof to gain an easier groove

.M.Turner, K.Goodey. (6/91).

The Swain E2 5b 20m.

Around rightwards from the arch, gained by traversing underneath the arch, is a small zawn with an easy chimney line in the back (Wraith & Yag soloed it). On the left of this is a steep hanging (?) groove. Climb this to exit left onto a slab, A bit scary.

Leigh McGinley, Ian Wilson, Andy Newton. (8/8/91).

Muppet Zawn

This zawn lies just over the bridge and on the right. Next zawn right from the one with the steps.

Gonzo With the Wind E4 6a 25m.

The left wall of the zawn. Climb the obvious central corner over a bulge then over(?) a roof. The top wall is interesting.

M.Turner, Andy Farnell (on-sight). (1/8/91).

Even Bigger Guns E3/4 5c 23m.

Abseil off South Stack bridge on the mainland side. Pull over a roof and trend up leftwards along a ramp to a short chimney and plants. Good protection.

G.Smith, N.Crain. (1994).

South Stack Island

After crossing the bridge, follow steps down into the first zawn on the right - obvious concrete diving board at the top of the zawn.

Attila the Pun E5 6a 23m.

This takes the steep hand crack leading off slabs on the left-hand side of the zawn (looking in). Follow the crack and then the groove on the right to a rest on a slabby ramp/groove. Cross the wall rightwards on fine south Stack rock, passing interesting quartz jugs/holes, to gain a sandy groove. Follow this to the top.

A.Wainwright, J.Wainwright (on-sight). (5/7/96).

Just north of the bridge are three small right angled bays. Hop over the wall, just on from the green gate. The first route takes the crack in the slab in the most northerly of these bays.

Tinky Winky Severe 23m.

Start by scrambling down slopes to belay in a corner right of the slab at low tide. Traverse left on a quartzy band and climb the crack in the slab to a spike belay.

Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).

The next route is reached by traversing left (looking in) around the arête from Tinky Winky.

The Old Light MXS 23m.

Belay on a pedistal below the curving crack/chimney. Make steep moves up to a large spike and climb the crack/chimney via a variety of cautious moves to a belay on the left.

Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).

Mousetrap Zawn

E6 of Littlejohn's (1999/2000)

Two Fat Slabs E5

Climbs the wall left of Hysteresis. Start below the left most part of the wall, below some green balls. 'Mosscampion'.1 27m. 6a. Climb up left of the balls and over a roof to belay on the same ledge, but further left than Hysteresis, on some spikes (hanging off the ledge).2 40m. 6a. Climb straight up on excellent red rock, through a bulge, to a ledge. Climb over the break/roof to the next break/roof. Move up and right to join Hysteresis as it passes through the blank rock.3 15m. 4c. As for Hysteresis, pitch 3.

M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1997).

Catatonia E5

A nice eliminate. Start as for Hysteresis.1 40m. 6a. Climb easily to a short vertical crack. Climb this and go left to a cam 4 in a hole, just before the orange wall. Nice moves up this gain the Hysteresis belay.2 50m. 5c. Move right and make a long reach up to a break. Bla bla bla… to the top.

P.Littlejohn (1999/2000?)

The Final Front-Ear 70m E6

1 35m. 6b. First take thin cracks, 5 metres right of Hysteresis to the big breaks. Now thrust up the overhanging jugs, with little protection, and cling on to place a Hex 11 in the lip. Step up the warp factor and traverse right on little holds, crux, to reach the 'ear'. Easier climbing leads to the belay, on Primate. A challenging enterprise.2 35m. 5c. Follow a hand crack through the overhang and up the wall to a good thread. Move left on amazing pockets then go up and rightwards to join Primate to finish.

Paul Prichard, Gwion Hughes. (14/8/97).

Rosebud - Worth E6 6a.

Death Trap E5Variations:

Direct Start(2003)1a 20m 5c. This gains the main diagonal line at the earliest available moment. Start by the right-hand side of the sea cave. Climb up right of the cave to a ledge on the left, level with the lip of the cave. Arrange Worthog protection and make a long and committing span left onto the wall and left again to a scoop in the chimney. Climb up to the Mousetrap belay.W.Perrin, P.Robins.

Death Trap Direct (1988)2a 45m. 5b. An awesome and logical direct on the original. One of the finest pitches at Gogarth. Take a big rack. From the stance on Mousetrap, climb straight up the slanting chimney past a worrying steepening, to regain the original line.

The Head Strimmer 110m E4

1 45m. 5b. As for Mousetrap, pitch 1.2 10m. 5b. From the ledge, climb diagonally right for 8 metres to a volcano, clove hitch. Step right onto a red wall and climb directly to the sloping ledge belay, on Mantrap.3 30m. 6a. This pitch unfolds in the area between Mantrap and Another Roadside Attraction. Leave the ledge, climbing the flake above through two stepped roofs and into the right facing groove, joining Another Roadside Attraction. Belay on the left.4 25m. 5b. Climb left for 3 metres towards a shattered pillar, beneath the centre of a red wall. Climb up on pockets to a crumbly groove finish

D.Towse, A.Wainwright (AL).(1997)

Another Roadside Attraction (new description) E4

A fine route with an excellent, but tiring, main pitch up the red wall on the right side of the zawn. Start from sea level, right of the large cave.1 50m 4c. As for Mantrap, pitch 1. A very serious pitch.2 30m 6a. From the right side of the ledge, go rightwards, then up on awkward holds to gain a shallow left-facing corner and overhang above. Strenuously pull onto the smooth wall above and continue up, heading for the stance on Mantrap.3 21m. 5b. Climb above the belay for three metres, then move left to a slight right-facing corner. Ascend this and the wall above.

Left Hand Red Wall

Cannibal Direct Finish 45m E5 5c

From the final break, step right and climb straight up between Schittlegruber and Cannibal.

M.Pointon. (1993)

Schittlegruber - Worth E5 (?)

Ramalina E6 6b 20m

Follow Left Hand Red Wall to a peg and from the ledge, climb straight up passing a pocket at 10m. A hard move over a bulge leads to a rest. Carry on to the top.

M.Turner, K.Goodey. (15/9/91).

The Heart of Gold Direct-Ramalina connection climbed by G. Farquhar and W. Young, 1997.

Mein Shaft E6 6b 23m.

Follow Mein Kampf Direct to the twin stainless steel pegs. Climb directly up the hairy wall above, crux, between Mein Kampf and Ramalina.

Grant Farquhar, Wills Young (on-sight). (2/10/97).

Howell The Trowell E7 6c 23m

From the belay of LH Red Wall weave through the overlap and wall above. ?peg runner.

M.Turner

For The Enchanted Broccoli Garden and The Super Calabrese, belay to the right on good gear. Reduces the grades (of the top pitches) to E6 and E7 respectively.

Yarding Lard 100m E6

Start at the bottom of the zawn, about 7 metres left of Come to Mother.1 40m. 6b. Step across the void and climb straight up to two pegs. Launch over the roof and up the crack above. Move left into Pagan just below the obvious white ledge. Step off the right hand end and climb the sand pit to the Pagan stance.2 30m. 6a. Follow the sandy break out right to the obvious sandy cave. Step right and climb the pocketed red wall, with good gear, to the Infidel belay.3 35m. 5c. Climb straight up to the horn and move above to a hand jamming crack, left of Anarchist.

M.Turner, Steve Hartland. (8/95).

Metal horn on Infidel has gone.

Care in the Community 30m E5 6a

Start below a spike, as for Outside the Asylum. Climb up the right side of the spike and move left to clip the peg on Outside the Asylum. Climb directly up the corner groove above, over a small overlap and up the wall to a horizontal break at 17 metres. Step right and make increasingly hard moves up the wall, right of a black streak, to arrive below the finishing crack of Anarchist. Move right, hands in the break, and climb the flake just left of the arête, exciting, to belay on the ledge, on the escape route.

G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/10/95)

Anarchist Direct E3 6a

Starting up Outside the Asylum, follow a corner straight up into Anarchist.

M.Turner, A.George. (Don’t know which George!)(1989)

The Promontory

Red Warbler's 27m E4 6a

The continuation groove, as it were, in the south face of the promontory. Scramble round from the abseil. Swarm up the groove after a hard first move. Protection is every whimps dream.

G.Smith, J.Toombs, D.Holms, A.Wainwright, R.Kay, N.Dixon.(1996)

Red Wall

Roger Melly… E4(?)

Start as for Safer Start! And climb up to beneath a roof. A hard pull gains a line of holds … up to join Television Route. At the bolts and pegs, follow the break up and left to finish out at a sandy recess.

M.Turner, Owain Jones (6/8/93)

Bottom of the Pile 30m E2 5c

Start at a ledge, just above sea level, left of the cove mouth. Climb the rightward slanting corner groove to a flake crack continuing rightwards. Gain the top of the flake and stand up by an inelegant ant tenuous move. Climb up above and move rightwards around the blunt arête to a blocky slab. Continue diagonally right then up a dirty corner to belay on spikes at the foot of Windigo.

H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998)

*Blood Baath43m E4/5 6a (R) (2005)
Start from the block belay as for Redshift pitch 2. Start as for Redshift but continue to the overhang, peg. Reach up and out left to a short handcrack, cam 3.5. Follow the crack and climb more or less directly to the capping headwall, climb this moving rightwards to finish at the arete. Fragile rock on headwall.
C Parkin, D J Holmes 28/1/05.

The Tiger's Den E5

1 18m. 5c. As for A Brown Study, pitch 1.2 ??m. 5c. Traverse the ledge rightwards and go right to a corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge and traverse 8 metres right to its end and belay.3 ??m. 6a. Drop down a metre and traverse right (loose) to a hanging red wall. Climb this, under a line of overhangs until a hard move brings you out on a slab. Top out, boulder belay.

M.Turner, K.Goodey. (19/9/91).

Fire and Grimstone 20m E5 5c

This route deals with the groove line 3 metres right of the start to A Brown Study. Climb up the groove, passing much sand, loosness, and brittle fins to join A Brown Study at the top of its first pitch. Belay on good rock in the corner above. Finish wherever you wish.

A.Wainwright, J.Harrison. (5/9/96).

Castle Helen

Nematoid 40m E3 5c

From the belay at the top of the first pitch of Captain Nemo, climb up the obvious groove. At the top of the groove, go over a small roof and weave a way up the wall above to reach a diagonal break/ledge. Follow the break/ramp left to a large corner and finish up this to a grassy scramble.

A.Wainwright, J.Harrison. (5/9/96).

The Flight of the Do Do E4 6a 30m.

Start below an overhanging corner, 17 metres right of the last belay of Freebird. Climb the overhanging wall (small hidden wires) to pull leftwards onto the wall, right of the top pitch of Freebird.

M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).

New Variant Atlantic Wall

First climbed in 1969 and given a brief description in the Alec Sharp guide, Atlantic Wall was redescribed by Geoff Milburn in the 1981 supplement with the top pitch moved rightwards to make room for North West Passage. The 1990 guide redescribed Atlantic Wall once again and, with a fine disregard for historic precedent, relocated the first belay far to the right of the halfway ledge, creating an excellent pitch at a stroke. In keeping with tradition, Atlantic Wall is redescribed for the new millennium as climbed by G.Huxter and H.Jones:

Atlantic Wall 2000 E3 75m.1 45m. 5c. Climb the arête right of the Atlantis pitch 1 corner, easily at first until forced to climb the centre of the wall for a few moves. Move immediately back right to stand on the arête where Atlantic Wall emerges from below the overhangs. Climb up then diagonally rightwards along a broken crack to gain a blunt right-facing rib after a few metres, which is climbed to reach the traverse of True Moments at the shallow cave on the traverse fault - about 6 metres right of Atlantis corner. From the right-hand end of the cave, gain the wall above and climb directly to the girdle traverse line, just below the thin wet groove that is 4 metres left of the North West Passage groove line. Belay.2 30m. 6b. Gain and climb the thin wet groove to its junction with Caught 'Twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea. Make a move up the leftwards slanting groove of Caught 'Twixt.. until a step rightwards across the face can be made to gain a footledge on the right. From here, climb difficult moves straight upwards, well protected by R.P's, to join North West Passage. Follow this to finish.

G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/00).

Hanging out at Glastonbury E4

A good traverse which allows the excellent 3rd pitch of Free Stone Henge to be experienced by lesser mortals. Start 7m down from Castle Helen Ledge in the corner of Atlantis, on good nuts.1 17m. 5c. Follow the obvious traverse line right to the arête and belay (junction with Obelisk).2 6a. Reverse the traverse of Obelisk and carry on right to belay in centre of slab.3 5c. Pitch 3 of Free Stone Henge.4 5b. Finish up Kalahari.

M.Turner and ?

Free Stone Henge - Worth E6 6b. (PR).

Vital Statistix E8 77m.

Start on the right hand side of the two cheese wedges.1 23m. 5b. Step off the left hand end and climb up steeply to the base of a right facing corner and continue up the slab to belay below the overhanging v-roof of Free Stone Henge.2 7m. 6c. Take the roof direct, right of Free Stone Henge. Start by reaching a large undercut (good nut) and continue with body bars to a rest and undercut up the overhanging groove to a wild bold finish.3 12m. 6c. Climb the roof left of Free Stone Henge.4 35m. 6c. Climb the overhanging wall left of Obelisk's top pitch. Follow the quartz streaks to a peg and R.P's. A hard move left and up gains undercuts, peg, and continue steeply direct to finish. Bold.

M.Turner, L.Thomas. (6/95, climbed over various days).

Drunken without Trace E6 46m.

Start at overhanging groove directly below top of pitch 1 of Kalahari.1 13m. 6b/c. Climb up the wall to below the overhanging groove. Over this and move up to the obvious line of jugs leading to the ledge.2 33m. 6a. Traverse right across break to a loose spike (white tape) and climb up and left through Kalahari (rest). Climb straight up and thrutch through the overhanging chimney. Wild pull out leads to slab above.

M.Turner, L.Thomas, Ian. McNeill. (1992).

Yellow Wall

The Owl and the ***** Cat E6

Start as for The Cow.1 6b. Climb The Cow to a rest on a spike, just past its crux. Climb up and left (sloping mantle) to meet Me. Go up the vague groove to the roof and pull up right to big jug (wire #9). Follow the hanging prow to the golden slab of The Moon, belay.2 6a. Climb the groove direct which Perygl top pitch traverses into. Climb straight up and move right to base of groove (bold), RP's. Go up groove to top.

M.Turner, Ian McNeill. (1992).

?? E6

A line based on the arête between the top grooves of The Cow and Ludwig. Strenuous climbing on an awesome position, though escapable at times.1 5c. Climb up a sandy wall, to the right of Ludwig, to a ledge. Go up to an undercut flaky crack then strenuously pull up and slightly left to meet The Cow. Follow this to the belay.2 6b. Follow Ludwig round onto the red hanging slab then step right to beneath the overhanging arête. Pull over the bulge to gain a sandy break which leads wildly up the arête to better holds and a rest in a fine position. Carry on up on crumbly holds to join Ludwig at the top

M.Turner, P. Robins.

The Yellow Shark E7 6b 35m.

Takes an obvious diagonal line to finish up a square cut groove between the top sections of Me and Isis is Angry. Thanks Crispin ;-) Strenuous and bold. Start from the Moon/Cow hanging belay. Head out rightwards along the ramp, below the top pitch of The Moon, to join Me at the two pegs. Continue easily up this for 7 metres to a good spike on the left. Trend out right to a ledge and continue to the base of the groove (cunning no hands head jam). Difficult moves, crux, with massive fall potential, lead into the groove. Follow this to the capping bulge, traverse right and move up to jugs. Finish easily.

G.Farquhar, M.Turner, A.Perkins. (Briefly inspected from a distance i.e. abbed in to the belay without eyes shut). (26/9/93).

The Big Softy E6 6a 45m.

Start on the ridge below the last pitch of The Sind. Start as for Paddington and climb across a sandy wall to a sort of rest/ledge at the base of a groove. Climb up left (poor gear) and up in a parallel line to The Sind, aiming for an obvious nose of rock.

M.Turner, Andy 'barman'. (6/94).

93,000,000 Miles E4 60m.

An intricate climb which weaves its way up the wall, right of Pterodactyl. As runout as heaven is wide. Start 25 metres down the ramp from Pterodactyl at a block belay.1 45m. 5c. Ascend up and right, following cracks, with gear, onto the edge of the wall. Go straight up past as spunk small recess and through a bulge to a no-hands rest (hidden peg on a small ledge just above). Step back down and traverse left then go straight up until level with the Paddington/ Pterodactyl belay. (Possible to traverse left and place bad runners here - cam #4 useful). Now trend off up and right for a few miles to a small spike, crux. Go up and right again to a ledge and peg belay.2 15m. 5c. From the stance, move up and right to a

pair of Siamese pegs. Crank straight up the steep wall to finish in a groove. A bit spooky.Paul Pritchard, Ian Wilson, Debbie Quinn. (15/7/96).

Sign of the Sun Dog E5 60m.

A wandering and varied route up the very right arête of the Yellow Wall, Scary, technical and strenuous.1 40m. 6b. Follow 93,000,000 Miles to the first peg. Step up and go right onto the flying arête, second peg and small wires. Make weird moves up and run it out in space to a ledge and peg belay, on 93,000,000 Miles.2 20m. 6b. Move up and clip the pegs on 93,000,000 Miles and come back down. Make a hard traverse right under a roof and gain a huge flake (like a mirror image of Schittlegruber). Go up the flake to a horror niche, then right again to finish on the arête with much exposure.

Paul Prichard, Leigh McGinley (AL), Tom Leppert. (17th & 18th of July, 1996 - one bivy in Llanberis).

Not Yellow Wall Escape Route HVS 80m.

This route takes the right arête of the bay containing Yellow Wall and can be reached through the tunnel or by abseil. For those of you familiar with Red Wall Escape Route, this route offers a similar sort of experience on snappy rock with abundant vegetation thrown in.1 33m. 4b. From the boulder beach, climb the arête and a small bulge to a bubble ledge. Move right and belay on a spike.2 20m. 4a. Climb the groove behind the spike and move back left to the arête. Go up the grassy groove to belay.3 27m. 4c. Climb the wall to a large spike. Step off this onto another wall and follow a rising rightwards traverse on Red Wall type rock to the top.

Dave Furgerson, Bob Whichthan. (12/7/97).

Penlas Rock

Echo Madness E6 6b 30m.

Climbs the overhanging crack in the seaward end of the sea arch. Non-tidal. Start at the foot of the overhanging cracks, the left hand one. Haul up to a resting ledge before climbing out along the obvious crack. Hard moves at its end lead to a painful bridge (for the short). Climb straight up and swing out left, 3 metres from the top, to a ledge and belay. An extra rope is handy to run back to a block on the other side of the arch.

M.Turner, Chris Wentworth. (1995).

Grand Plié and Twin Horn E5 5c (will clean up to E4)

Go to the arch on the north side of the peninsula. 17 metres right of Echo Madness is a striated wall, facing out to sea. Climb the left hand edge of the wall with a move slightly right at half height, over a bulge (the twin horn) to eventually gain a shallow recess. Loose and interesting.

G.Smith, N.Craine. (1997).

The Callipygian Groove E6

A good but serious main pitch. Start to the left of the huge sea cave.1 Gain the iguano flake easily.2 6a. Climb steeply up the groove above the ledge, negotiating your way past a suspect block, to a rest just below the lip. Move right and find a way over onto the vegetated slab above. Go up and left (possible poor belay), then carefully pick a line up the loose wall to the top. No belay - so either sit firmly or arrange a third rope before hand.

A.Wainwright.(Callipygian means possessor of fine buttocks)

Tonton's Macoute E6 6a/b 27m.

Start from Gogarth's best belay - the iguano flake at the base of The Callipygian Groove. From the belay, traverse easily into the zawn for 3 metres to reach a diagonal line of breaks leading rightwards over the apex of the zawn. Follow these breaks, steep and sandy, passing an in-situ Hex 11, and battle with loose fins to reach a resting niche. Move rightwards onto ledges and easier ground. Belay around here and either follow easy ground rightwards or retrieve the abseil rope and escape.

A Wainwright, J.McHaffie. (23/9/03).

Rock of Ages E7 6b

The roof crack out of the cave on the seaward face of Penlas Rock. Ascend ledgey terrain to the top of the cave and bridge with obvious difficulty (and poor gear) onto a huge hanging fang. Follow the crack to easier ground and a huge block. By far the best route in the western world.

G.Smith. (8/97).

Pre-Cambrian Wrestler E7 6b 23m.

An unlikely looking scenario through the roofs right of the deep sea cave. Start just above the deck and ascend to huge blocks. Swing left along these into a shallow niche. Wildly climb the left side of the ship's keel to a wall above. Scurry rightwards into a disappointing rest, below a brown roof. Surmount this to a frenzied top out situation. From the ledges, scramble down rightwards.

G.Smith (on-sight). (1996).

Natalie Zawn

Fat Tulips Garden HVS

A poor route on mostly bad rock. Start to the left of the chimney of Natalie and C.P.F's. Go up a slab and move right and up to a hanging chimney, via a foot severing block.

M.Crook, J.Tooms. (1995/96).

C.P.F's 23m HVS

Wide crack on left of cave goes through 2 roofs. Full on, wide, open and hairy.

P.Pritchard, G.Smith. (18/11/92)

Bryngwran Man 30m E4 5c

An excellent route on mostly good rock, with good protection. Start up the chimney of Natalie but continue straight up to a roof. Surge over this direct to finish up a small hanging groove, past the odd mobile hold. Disappointing belay up on the left.

G.Smith, A.Wainwright. (1996)

Blacksmith's Zawn

Ermintrude 36m E6 6a

Left hand finish to Angel Dust. Slightly harder and weirder. Follow Angel Dust to the niche. Go left over a roof and straight up to a deep crack/groove. Blunder up this to slabs. Outstandingly nice and good protection.

G.Smith, A.Wainwright. (on-sight) (1994).

Thug 50m E7

Two very distinguished pitches. Start from a good ledge under the roof, right of the previous route. A full set of cams obligatory.1 25m. 6b. Ascend the short wall to the huge underclings. The roof crack out there behind ones head is gained via a flange. Jam furiously to a more gentle groove and stance at a ledge.2 25m. 6b. Exit down right from the ledge and dissapear into a deep groove. Appear at the top of the groove after dealing with sustained difficulties. Exit, slightly rightwards up a slab at the top.

G.Smith, L.McGinley (AL), with D. "chips" Quinn. (8/94).

Seven Types of AngularityE5 50m

.An amazing route up the obvious slanting groove running over the left side of the cave. Ideally suited to a contortionist. Start on a big ledge to the left of the cave, under a roof.1 6b. Climb the slab easily rightwards to the roof and further right to the arête. Swing round and enter the hanging groove with difficulty to a rest. Further awkward shuffling is eventually rewarded with a rest on the lip of the cave, in a superb position. Move right across the lip and slightly down to a belay in the base of the corner on the right.2 5a. Move up until forced onto easier ground on the right. Continue up to the top.

C.Waddy, G.Smith (on-sight). 1992.

Wowan's Wocket E6 6b A steep and flamboyant little pitch. Start beneath a short chimney on the left edge of the cave. 1 6b. Climb easily up to the chimney and span left to join Severn Types of Angularity on the arête. Follow this into the groove and awkwardly turn around. Strenuously pull out left to undercuts on the steep hanging wall and desperately work left to the arête. Go up to belay on the ledge. It is also possible to go more directly from the undercuts to the ledge. This pitch is above deep water and so makes a good solo, followed by a dive off the ledge or reverse down the ramp on the left.2 6a. From the break above the ledge, committing moves up the bubbly groove gain a hidden peg on the right. Further worrying moves lead up the slanting groove/rib, peg, to a swing right into the larger corner and good gear. Continue gibbering to the top.

? (2003)

The following two routes start from the right side of the cave.

Andy Cave's Route - E6/7 - through roof crack in back of zawn.

The Light That Didn't Shine 45m XS

A fantastic voyage through the large cave to emerge in Smurf Zawn. A definite must for every coastanier. Probably, best treated as a sea-level traverse. Mid to low tide with calm seas will increase the chances of staying dry. From the right side of the cave, traverse just above the water into the darkness. Cross over onto a ledge on the back wall and teeter rightwards, lured by the distant light. Head up through a squeeze onto a ledge the carry on up and out to meet Green Light. Finish up this (ropes recommended) or make a high but easy traverse (above deep water) across the King of the Swingers wall to safety.

?(1988)

Smurf Zawn

Up wall, left of King of the Swingers. - E2 - C.Waddy.

Variations on King of the swingers:1a Gain the ledge from the left. - C.Waddy

2a Climb directly up the groove with little protection to a scary finish. E4 5c. - Twid

A few routes have been added further right, including a short arête by Twid.

Holyhead Mountain

Ramp C

Breakaway E2 5c 37m.

Climbs the steep crack on the overhung buttress. Layback round the overhang at 5m to a bridging position. A tricky move up gains an arm swallowing pocket. Go up over a bulge at a shallow groove and finish easily up slabs.

J.Dalton, M.Petty. (28/5/93).

P.C.H HVS 5a 15m.

Climbs the diagonal crack in the wall over looking Primrose Hill Gutter. Climb up the slab, step right and follow a crack, jamming over an overlap at 10m. Easier start further up left.

J.Dalton, M.Petty. (28/5/93).

Ramp D

Stairs Direct 5a?
Climb the short corner as for pitch 1 of Stairs but step left and climb through the 1st roof with a crack in its middle,mantleshelf, then continue up rightwards to the next roof, move right to a short wall and finish up this.
M.Handford,Shan Rees Roberts 03/02/07

Ramp F

Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast E1 4c 10m.

The slab right of Mental Block, following a quartz streak. One runner, very low down.

I.O.Roberts, D.Noden, E.Parry. (1999).

Minime E2 5b

The right hand arête of the wall of Pisa, climbed on its left hand side. Fiddley cams and a thin sling protect

I.O.Roberts, D.Noden. (1999).

Yellow Wall

Shreddies E2 40m.

Start at a thin crack between Bran Flake and Croissant.1 17m. 5c. Climb to the overlap and go leftwards to base of large flake. Go round this on the right to belay up in a cave.2 23m. Climb easily up slabs to finish.

Nick Sharp, J.Dalton. (12/5/94).

A Seagull Eat My Crisps E4/5 6b 20m.

Climbs the slanting crack in the gully left of King Bee Crack. Climb up to a big spike and traverse left along the break until a hideous jam enables a rest to be appreciated in a niche. Climb the arête/corner to the top.

M.Turner, Mel Griffiths. (6/98).

Trouser Snake E4/5 6a

A variation to Snakebite Wall. From hollow flakes down and left of Katana, crimp up the wall leftwards to join Snakebite Wall after it's rightwards traverse. Follow this to just before it joins King Bee Crack, arrange gear. Traverse up and right to a poor tied off peg then up to a good jug/spike, just left of Penny. Ignore thoughts of escape into Penny, instead head up and left to finish via a left facing groove and easy-peesy slab.

Tim Neill, Toby Keep. (22/6/03).

Trherh Arête E6 6a

Obvious arête (and slab above), right of Sai Dancing.

Mel Griffiths, M.Turner. (6/98).

Don't join the Army Frank! E3 6a

On the right side of the main area, takes the superb arête right of Patience. Gain the arête from the right and reach around for an obvious thread on the left wall. Climb the right side of the arête and pull right into a niche. Continue up until a runner can be placed in the crack on the right (Drying Out). Rock over left to a dinky slab finish. P.S: Don't do it Frank.

Simon Sartram, Barric Barrett. (31/7/90).

The Electric Lady Charlotte E3 5c 27m.

The diagonal line running leftwards out of Patience, crossing The Electric Spanking… near the top.A bit loose in places.

Rich Parry, Mike Gresham. (8/96).

Quartz Wall

The National Conitation E4 6a 25m.

This takes a slab with an overhanging section at half height. Sustained for approximately 5 metres.

P.Mitchell, J.Loveridge. (1999).

Bad Influence E3 5c 25m

Start at the foot of the slab between Black and Tan, and Breaking the Barrier. Climb the slab via a faint white streak (difficult). Continue in the same line to stand on two large foot holds. Traverse right to gain the thin crack, which is climbed to the top.

C.Greatwich, C.Stephenson, L.A.Dutton. (26/7/91).(The thin crack was climbed as a direct finish to Breaking the Barrier (E2 5c, 1989) by John Donnely).

Point Taken E2 5c

Start as for Breaking the Barrier. Climb to the left of the cracks on Breaking the Barrier to a good crack. Follow a vague groove (R.P's protect) and join Black and Tan on the left. Traverse right to the cracks splitting the headwall, left of the finish to Breaking the Barrier, and finish up there. (A new route has been reported taking this finish. Point Taken is independent and left of this).

J.Hope, K.Niel. (7/91).

Dreaming of Home - worth E1.

Scissorhands E1 5b Up the gully from Tempest is a blunt undercut arête, with a crack that stops at 6m.N.Ashton. (29/8/91).

Rhoscolyn

The following two routes are located at a 'new' crag near the Lookout crags, about 300m SE of the coastguard lookout. It is a small V-shaped zawn; the back wall contains a series of overlaps on clean rock

Saltheart E5 6a/b 20m.

From 5m up the left wall (looking in) of the zawn, climb out and up to an overhanging hand crack. Climb steeply out to the 2nd of two jugs (gear) and make a hard move up and out to gain jams in the base of the crack. Struggle up this to a no-hands rest on a ledge. From the left end of the ledge, climb up the wall to a roof the hand traverse the horizontal break rightwards to easy ground. Pumpy, but good pro.

Owen Hayward, Dave Barker (on-sight). (23/5/90).

Behind Closed Doors HVS 5a 25m.

Start just right of Saltheart. Follow the line of holds outwards to the lip, easier than it looks. Traverse rightwards under the roof until below the prominent corner. Pull over to climb the corner and move left at its conclusion. Well worth doing.

Frazer Bull, Owen Haywood, Dave Barker. (23/5/90).

On the right hand side of Sunset Slab is a hanging buttress with an obvious gangway up the left-hand side, with a crack on its right side.

Deganwy HVS 4c 20m.

From sea level, follow the gangway, past a steepening, to the top. Exciting rock, quartz in mudstone.A.Newton, M.Crook. (30/7/95).(Pleasant route at Severe up right side of buttress, pulling over a bulge at half height.

Nick Walton, solo, 1995).

A Very Steep Young Man E5 6b 10m.

The crack system in the overhanging wall right of Deganwy. Start from sloping ledges on the arête. Belay from a rock pool at low tide. From big spikes, go left to gain a wide crack with a difficult swing up and left into continuation cracks and finish bulkily. Magnificent climbing, with the main difficulties confined to the first 10 metres! Take numerous cams.

G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1996).

Election ZawnThe first deep cleft, north of the coastguard lookout. Labelled in the guide as "repulsively loose" prominent coves.

Drink

Your H..?.. the Portillo E31 50m. 4c. From the seaward end of the zawn, traverse the north wall rightwards between the high tide mark and 5 metres over breaks and under a waterfall as the line dictates. Belay on a large ledge below the big corner.2 25m. 5b. Go up and rightwards to the wall and follow folded rock straight up. Move leftwards when the rock runs out onto vegetated rock and a grass cornice. Finish in the cutting area and belay in rabbit burrows. (Belay stake now in place - Reduce E grade by leaving a rope down grass from this).Howard Jones, Gill Lovick. (2/5/97).

From Anoyance to Lingotence E2/3 Traverse from the east end of the zawn on the north wall.1 22m. 5c. Start just left of a shallow corner. Slippery at first - follow a rising traverse leftwards without much protection, but all easy enough, to a rounded ledge. Awkward moves beyond this gain more broken rock and easier climbing to a notch on the arête and a belay.2 25m. 5b/c. Move round the arête onto a worrying ledge and follow this into the corner. Step onto the left wall traverse easily - good protection stuffed rigorously intoDrink Your H..?.. the Portillo. Step down and continue the traverse over a small stream (or larger waterfall, depending on conditions) to reach vegetated ledges alongside the top of wide folded cracks, large cam. Finish joyfully up steep grass by two embedded boulders - stake belay.Howard Jones, Gill Lovick. (3/6/97).

The Red Wedge

The next routes lie some 100 metres left (looking out to sea) of the coastguard lookout; left (looking in) of Sunset Slab. The area can't be seen from above and consists of a wedge of very good quality Yellow Wall rock.

Bulkmaster E2 5c 25m.Start half way up the slabs on the right side of the V. Gain the slab and move left to below the hanging corner above. Climb this with some effort and finish slightly up and left.M.Crook, A.Newton. (30/7/95).

25 Years of Cellulite E2 5b 30m.Start as for Bulkmaster and follow the slab leftwards until moves up a short groove lead to a pedestal. Carry on leftwards and downwards with difficulty, passing a peg, to reach the slab. Scramble up to the top and round to above the last section to protect the second.M.Crook, A.Newton. (1/8/95).

They're Red Hot E3/4 5c 20m.From the niche on the left, traverse right past the peg to an obvious undercut. Gibber straight up the wall to an uncomfortable rest in the corner below the roof. Swing out right on big flatties, bridging thin air, and slap out along the obvious traverse line to arrive in the easy finishing groove. Take big cams.Joe Le Sage, Andy Braund (on-sight). (1995).
Daz Undercling E4 6bThe obvious overhanging crack from the bottom of the cave. Finish up the obvious line above.G.Smith. (1996).
Rechtsclinger E2 5cStart in the cave, as for Daz Undercling, but move out right along an obvious line, becoming a humus sandwich filling finish.M.Crook, R.Wood. (2/96).
Curly Locks and the Three Hairs VS 4b.Thin crack and corner on the left wall of the small zawn opposite The Sun.Nigel Manning, Richard Wright. 11/8/90.
LlawderBigger Girls E5Climbs the wall right of Big Boys. Start at a groove, 8 metres right of the start of The Sun.1 5b. Climb the groove to a sloping ledge. Belay just right of the curving crack.2 6b. Climb the steep wall and step left to the curving crack, which is followed to bigger holds. Traverse 3 metres right and attack the steep finger crack.M.Turner, Graham McMahon. (1997).
Don't Cry E6 6bStart as for Big Boys and after 8 metres, instead of going left, move right to a peg. Climb direct to join the base of the upper groove. Snappy.M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1997).
Shine On You Crazy Diamond E5/6 6b 40m.Takes the steep crack to the right of The Sun past three pegs at the bulge. The strong will continue to join The Sun for the final 20m. Amazingly steep climbing with excellent moves.Ian Lloyd-Jones. (24/8/90).
Fallen Block ZawnJack of All Trades VS 4c 30m.Start 4 metres right of The Trip, below a narrow wall with a grey overhang at its base. Climb through the overhang to the left. Then climb trending right away from the system of cracks on …?… Finish straight up, the angle and difficulties easing, to join The Trip at its belay.Spike Green, Tim Child and Hull University. (1998).

Don't tell Gareth HVS 5a 23mFrom the top of the first pitch of Truant, a deep recess with suspect protection (take at least three slings) trends up diagonally rightwards across the black headwall. Follow the recess past a couple of suspect spike runners to an obvious tooth, spike runner, where the recess steepens. Carefully pull over the tooth to land on a small ledge, junction with Drunk on Arrival. Finish up the overhanging corner, crux, with good runners.Simon Wilson, Helen Bailey. (25/7/96).

The Aberconders' Finish HVS 5b 48m.A superb alternative finish to Truant. Well protected and photogenic.1 15m. Follow the corner of Truant to a large ledge which cuts across the slab from the left at about half height. Belay in the recess.2 33m. Move up the slab on the left for a couple of metres, then using two large pockets, ascend the steep wall on the right to traverse a red-coloured slab into the groove of E.P.Special. Move up this until a prominent undercut flake enables an exposed traverse to the right to the arête of the fin. Climb this to finish on the saddle.Donald King, Bob Llewelyn. (11/10/98).

Sea Cave Zawn

Sea and Bisquits HVS 5a 23m.Start 3m up Solo Slab, step off the slab into obvious bottomless groove. Climb it, crux, then hand traverse steeply right until beneath z-cracks in roof. Climb out over this and up the short wall above.P.Griffith, P.Bursnall. (10/7/92).

The Band of Westies E5 6aEssentially a top pitch to Round the Horn; traversing left below and onto an undercut block. Then traverse diagonally out left to finish where Electric Blue finishes.John Dawes, solo. (8/03).

Big Sunday E5 6a 13m.The overhanging crack left of Fear Test. Follow large jugs just to the right of the hairline crack (good pro). Gain a no hands knee-lock in the big break - loose undercling avoided. Cut loose and head for the off width finish. Well protected with small wires and ancient worthog. Best climbed in rough sea.G.Smith, A.Wood (on-sight) (1988).

Loon For the Broon E2 5b 22m.The route starts from the hanging belay on Symphony Crack. From the belay, take a direct line up the right wall, heading for the right shoulder of the crag top. The sensible climber will take advantage of the numerous pockets for runner placements on this clean brittle wall.Mark Hedge, Sammy Burns. (12/6/98).

From Dusk Till Dawn E3 6a 17m. (Tidal)The striking arête on the opposite side of the promontory from symphony Crack. Climb the right hand side of the arête, fingery at first, till big holds lead onto the arête.M.Turner, I.Wilson. (1996).

Black Zawn

(Tidal)The following routes tackle the short steep wall of the narrow zawn.

Painted Black E5 6b 27m.Start just above the pool, at low tide, and climb the right-hand side of the black recess to gain the obvious juggy flake. Get a good rest below the white headwall, then pull onto edges and make a powerful move to gain a flat hold, just below a juggy break. Quite bold and physical.S.Jones, Pat King, Zaf Ali, John Boy. (12/7/97).

Dark Reflections E7 6b 23m.Take the centre of the overhanging face, starting below a shallow little groove. Two scary moves away from gear/snappy rock. Finish up the snaking crack in the headwall. Brilliant climbing and steady climbing for the grade.S.Jones, Pat King, Zaf Ali, John Boy. (12/7/97).

Slit Yer Wrists E5 6a 20m.Takes the groove at the back of the zawn to the break, on the overhanging side. Climb the steep wide crack on the upper part to finish.S.Jones, P.Brook. (29/6/97).

Starfish Cove

This is the next wall/cave right (looking out to sea) from Sea Cave Zawn.

Starfish Enterprise E6 6b 22m.Takes the wildly overhanging wall/cave. Start on a flat boulder at the bottom left hand side of the cave. Climb up breaks to a niche at 7 metres. Traverse 15 metres along the bottom break and then the top break to pull through the roof at its apex. Steep.M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).

It's Life Twid, But Not as You Know itE3 5c 13m.The small arête of Starfish Cove. Climb the crack in the seaward side and pull through the cracks onto the arête. Finish direct. A route of great character.M.Turner, Ian Wilson.

Painted Wall

(non-tidal)Between the White Arches and the main crags.

Surreal Appeal E7 6b 30m.Start left of centre on the wall. Climb up onto the grass eyebrow and right to the rightward trending weakness. Pass 7 pegs (some better than others) to reach the easier but still interesting top out. Cams useful to belay.M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).There are two ways to go at top- don't know which?

Easel-EE E7 6c (F8a) 30m.Start in the centre of the wall, at its lowest point. Follow the rising line of pegs up and left to join Surreal Appeal at it's crux. Follow this to the top. Hardly a sport route! Doesn't get wet.M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).

The White Arches

The Vipper E1 5b 13m.On the section of rock just before (coming from the main area) the bay containing The Cruel Sea, defined on the other side by a square cut bay with a sea level platform at the other end. The route goes just left of the impressive arête that overhangs in it's last 2 metres. Start about 4 metres left of the arête beneath twin cracks. Ascend these to a ledge and step right to beneath the impending corner-crack, 1 metre from the arête. Ascend this, with a hard move to gain the corner, and finish abruptly on top.Si Wilson, Clive Powell. (2003). May have been done before.

The Mutiny VS 4b/cFront of buttress around left of The Cruel Sea. Climb twin cracks on bottomless slab and up the weird rock above. Serious at the grade.Andy Newton, Kath Griffiths. (20/8/91).
Missing Presumed Dead E5 6b 25m.Start from sea washed ledges, reachable from mid to low tide. Climb the superbly protected line underneath the arch, trending rightwards along a rock scar past some pitons, to a rather loose but safe finish. Well protected throughout.G.Smith, T.D.Bonner. 5/1990.
Smiley Rock Between the church parking and the Holyhead road on the Rhoscolyn road, by a school, is a small outcrop with a large rock balanced on top. The next two routes lie on the right side of the obvious wall. ? VS 4c 13m.Takes the arête, moving into a crack.J.Kieinan, J.Simpson. (16/6.90)
The Smiling Coastguard HVS 5a. 13m.Move leftwards after peg. J.Kieinan, J.Simpson. (16/6.90)
(Don't know where this route goes - P.R):Over by the ..?.. walls, .?. way .?. of the main bit, there is an overhanging arête which is clearly impossible (or at least very hard). This route takes the steep groove just right of it (left of .?. .?. .?. which it is possible to climb). Start at lowish tide (rarely dry, if ever). Climb the groove to a roof area. About 7 metres from the top, step left and finish up the continuation groove. Gets a little loose at the top, but well protected.C.Waddy. (1999?)

The RangeOS: 210801

The next two routes lie in a narrow zawn with an excuse for a stream running into it. At the narrow head of the zawn is an overhanging banana shaped spire, bounded on the north by a dog leg crack. The crack is:

Emmenthal Zawn

Dreygo's Guilt5b.Start just left of Hieroglyphics below a quartzy boss.Lasso the boss, with a rope, then jump upwards to a jug on it. Continue easily then move up and left till under a large roof. Wimp out of trying this but instead go left round it, marvellously steep and juggy, to gain the top and flowers etc.C.Waddy, D.Lampard. (8/1989).
Pooh Bay

The Secret of my Excess XS 5b 42m.On the south side of the bay, from the beach at half low tide, 5 metres seaward of the black and quartzy corner. Start by climbing a short wall to a groove which leads to the first overhang. Move 2 metres left below the overhang to beneath a golden quartzy boss. Pull through here and immediately skitter rightwards on undercuts. Move up and rightwards to the weakness in the next overlap, pull up and continue directly to where the slab becomes smooth and silvery. Now it all goes to rat ****; climb up to a rightwards trending groove and follow this to a few metres below the top. Go up leftwards onto a higher slab at a loose flake and grovel over onto the boulder clay. The surface of the silvery slab is fairly temporary and protection is an illusion for the top 15 metres.H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).
I am Curious Yellow E6 6a 27m.This takes the golden groove up the centre of the back wall of Pooh Bay. A.K.A: The Curious George. Abseil in from stakes at the back of the zawn.Walk up leftwards on a stepped slab to where a stream comes out from the stepped wall. Climb a grey groove to get a high runner before moving right across the rotten band to gain a sloping quartzy shelf. Reach up to undercuts. This proves to be an uneasy place to remain and a difficult place to leave. Move up and rightwards into the main groove and follow the groove up to the headwall and then easier ground just below the top.G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998).
Dichotomous wall

Dai-Wrecked E3Start from a small quartz ledge, above high tide, gained by abseil from the Dichotomous stakes.1 25m. 6a. Climb up a slab slightly rightwards to a square-cut overhang. Pass this rightwards by a contorted move into a hanging groove and continue straight up in the same line until the groove doglegs rightwards. Belay.2 7m. 4c. Go easily rightwards and up in the same line to a shattered diagonal line. Crumbling remains.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/01).
Dai-Version E3/4 33m.A much better route taking a multitude of overhangs.1 15m. 5c. Climb straight up to a quartz-cracked overhang. Go through this and immediately through a second overhang above. Belay on a slab.2 17m. 5c. Go up left over a small overlap to the lower of two noses. Climb left onto this and into an uncomfortable sandy groove. Go up this and left again onto the pick of the noses. Finish up the Dichotomous slab.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/02).
Ego Warriors E5 27m.About 7 metres left of the top of Dichotomous at stakes, find two round bar stakes. Abseil down to a promontory and walk round right (facing in) to a ledge leading to the cove. Belay at the mouth of the cove, below a quartzy streaked wall.1 17m. 6b. Climb the wall to a shelf, then move slightly down rightwards to good holds and steep ground. Continue up and rightwards to the top of the groove, vie a long reach, poor peg. Pull up into the groove (good peg, hidden on the right) and continue more easily on some doubtful rock to a belay on the stake.2 10m. 5a. Of the many undesirable ways from here to the top, this is least atrocious. From behind the belay, go up slightly left then make a long step left again. Follow a weakness up slightly right to the top.G.Huxter H.Jones. (1998).
The Following route is on the seaward face of the virtually detached piece of land by Ego Warriors & Funny Yellow etc.Go down a steep path to a beach and up onto the top of the island. Find a huge sea cave and abseil down to ledges of the left of the cave.Honed on the Range E5 6aFrom small ledges, above high water, follow an obvious left to right traverse across the lip of the cave. Arrange protection and embark on a thrilling sequence. A very very good episode of its type.G.Smith, J.Harrison. (1998).
The Fortress

At the north end of the Fortress is a subsidiary outcrop, which has an arch through it. The following routes are found on this outcrop (The Turret) in the first zawn to the north of Honed on the Range. Abseil down a snake of quartz on the north side of the zawn.The Snake HS 4b 15m.Climb the line of the abseil to an overhang and go through this.G.Huxter. (1998).
Some V.Diff Severe 17m.Start from palatial ledges to the right of the start of the snake. Climb the slabby corner directly above the ledges.H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).
Grazed and Confused E3 5c 19m.From palatial ledges, move rightwards towards the cave. Climb a slab diagonally rightwards to corrugated rock on a hanging arête. Climb directly above this to a small overhang on the arête, pull through and follow broken cracks slightly rightwards to an overhang. Go over this onto a hanging slab and on to the top.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
Reuben Friedman's Empty Bed HVS 5a 25m.Start from palatial ledges. Move round rightwards, as for Grazed and Confused. From below the corrugated arête, hand traverse into the cave and on to an overhung slab. Climb the slab rightwards to a ledge in the cave. From this ledge, if you are short, jump across the zawn to a sloping ledge opposite. If you are tall, step across without difficulty. If, however, you are of average height, beware of finding yourself with a foot in either camp and falling between two stools, ending in the ----. From the sloping ledge, climb directly up for protection then move down and left across the blow hole to climb up through it on its left-hand side.H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).

Trearddur Bay - The Face of Adversity.Reached by taking the minor road southwards to the southern most headland of the bay. Enter a disgusting housing estate and follow a sign to "Headland". Probably best to ask guy in house (with "Beware of Dog" sign) if it is O.K to climb his cliff.

Dr Livingstone I Exhume E3 5b

P.Barker, M.Anthone.

Treacherous Underfoot E6 6b 15m.

Precambrian yarding up the overhanging crack in the face, suited to a mid to low tide. Mostly protected by pegs.

G.Smith. (1992).

Chicama E9 6c 15m.

Traverse in from the slab on the right before questing up the groove and wall. RA!

Timmy! Emmett!, 2003

The Crow Road E6 6b 15m.

G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (inspected). (30/7/93).

2nd ascent by Twid, 3rd by Owen Hayward

Pegs probably in bad condition by now.

Headland XS 6a

G.Smith. (1993).

Alex Outlaws Electric Rod XS 5a

As for Headland, however, takes the unobvious prow ….?…Merlin Tomkins. (1993).

Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes XS 5c 23m.

A.Hopkins, J.Harrison, P.Barker. (summer/92).

Captain Gets his Oats E3 5c 17m.

A.Hopkins, J.Harrison, P.Barker. (summer/92).

Reinhold Made a Mesner HVS 5a 13m.Takes a crack over to the right of Captain Gets his Oats. Steep and fun.J.Harrison, P.Barker. (summer/92).

Dangleberries E4 6b 10m.

Situated on an overhanging wall to the right of The Treacherous Underfoot (looking in). Very short and very steep crack sporting 2 pegs, often wet but good value.

P.Barker, J.Harrison. (summer/92).

The next three routes lie in a deep gully at the end of the boundary wall, on a slab facing seawards. Descend either by abseil or down climb Diff face.Boundary Corner V.Diff 17m.Flaky crack in right hand corner. Follow thin crack to the top.N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Dogleg Crack V.Diff 17m.The right hand of 2 cracks up the centre of the wall.N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Catleg Crack V.Diff 17m.The left hand crack.N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Campian Crack Severe 14m.In the small bay to the right of a sewage pipe, the wall on your right as you are facing seawards, which has a crack turning diagonally leftwards, split at half height. Climb this.N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).

Ynys Y Fydlyn

Jam Yesterday, Jam Tomorrow, But Never Jam Today E4 6a 20m.This route is best approached by a tunnel through the headland which begins in the cave to the left of the George Smith classic: Lost Pillar of Scheiser. More boringly, walk north over the headland, from the beach, to a tall concrete post. Go down left and find the clean slot left again at the mouth of the through cave.The route takes the clean central line up the wall, past a tied off peg at two thirds height.G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998).

Carmel Head (opposite Skerries lighthouse)

The Lost Pillar of Scheiser XSThe cliff is largely decomposing but with one magnificent vein of quartz type stratified intrusion. This is of course The Lost Pillar. Start just right of the biggest sea cave and bail to the top, taking care with the rock.G.Smith, M.Crook. (18/11/92).

Penmon Quarry

Hamamatsu Flies Again E3 5c 27m.An interesting varied route through big roofs on solid rock. Good gear. Ascend the scree slope directly below the cliffs to largest roof. Climb suspect rock until a groove leads directly to a corner and ledge underneath the first roof. A long sling can then be attached to an iron nail here. Traverse out, turning the roof on its left and make a hard move up to get both feet on the lip and a rest. Ascend the crack to a second roof and make a strenuous traverse left under this. …bla, bla, bla….R.Durnford, M.Boater. (7/8/91).
?? (Driller Killer ?)A Delicate route on mainly sound rock. Start below the obvious drill line and ascend shattered rock to an obvious crack at 5m. Good gear. Pull round the bulge with difficulty and onto the main face and the drill line where the rock becomes solid. Follow the drill line on small positive holds to a good peg (?) at 13m. Move right to a line of flakes. Move back into the drill line, and carefully trend left to gain the arête just below the obvious ledge. From the ledge, make delicate moves left on suspect rock and pull up an overhanging finish.R.Durnford, M.Boater. (22/8/91).
…???…of Jools HVS 4c 33m.Takes the slab and corner left of Driller Killer. Finish moving right from the ledge of Driller Killer.M.Boater, M.Raw, R.Durnford,. (22/7/91).
?? Dee HVS 5a 40m.Obvious hanging crack 12m left of Passions of Fools.M.Boater, R.Durnford. (28/3/92).
Quirky Hip Gyrations E3 6b 8m.A horizontal crack leading to a large ledge, pulling out to large holds leftwards, overhanging moves up a corner to a triangular block. Move right around to top. Sea edge of Penmon Quarries.Martin Breialt. (12/7/93).

Benllech (See Other Anglesey Crags...)
The Tide is Turning F6a
New route just left of the large corner crack (right of the previous routes) follows a line of 5 bolts up and just left of a shallow V groove to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 20/12/07
Fossil Zone F6a
New route on the right hand side of this part of the upper tier. Climbs a clean section of the wall on small holds past numerous fossils and 5 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 20/12/07
Gone Fishing F7bish Maybe 7a+?? Steep start to ledge then up groove/ crack to small roof, before launching up the headwall to finish on a thank god jug just over the final little roof. Lower off. Steep, varied climbing, worth a star. (stays dry in light rain) 6 bolts protect- 1 resin, 5 stainless 12mm's.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe 31/07/08
N.B Parkin is worried about the weld rusting on the resins so has recommended using the 12mm stainless though bolts until problem sorted.
Benllech, Craig Dwlban - Main Wall (see topo section)

Escape Route (*) 5+ 10m.
A good route which follows the big crack on the far left of the main wall. Pleasant steep climbing on positive holds and jugs throughout.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers 25/07/08
Contraflow (*) 6b 10m.
A test of wing span. Start at the base of the wall next to the block and make side pull lunges to gain the easier climbing above.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers 25/07/08
Christmas Cracker - E2 5c (soon to be bolted at 6b+)
The obvious crack up the left hand side of the wall to a double bolt lower off. FA/FFA Tristan Peers, David Peers 26/12/2007
Hard Shoulder - 6a+
A direct line to share the lower-off of Central Reservation.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 16/03/08
Central Reservation - 6b
Straight up the main wall trending leftwards at the overhang
FA (E3 5b) Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007 (1 peg)
Central Reservation - Diversion Finish - 6b
Finish rightwards to Poison Ivy Lower-off (FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 16/03/08)
Poison Ivy - 6a
Follow the crack line near the right arete to finish over a bulge.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 15/05/08

Benllech, Craig Dwlban - Left Wall

Dwlban Arete - HVS 4c
The arete on the left hand side of the wall. FA Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007
Greaseball - E1 5b
Straight up the wall 2 metres to the right of the arete to a small overlap. Caution, some loose rock at the top. FA Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007

Porth Dafarch

From the beach car park, head left/south to the headland. Pass one inset to reach the furthermost, west-most zawn (not obvious). The next route takes the large south-facing wall in the back of the zawn, capped by huge roofs. Large tidal slabs can be used to gain the bottom of the zawn. Fisherman's Friend lies at the seaward end of the zawn.Brewing and Nothingness E5 6a 17m.Climb the juggy wall at the inland end of the face to a prominent quartz riddled notch. Easy to begin - to moving ledges. The steepening quartzy area is protected by numerous slings. Gain a handrail to enter the left-hand niche and the top with trepidation. Plastacine forearms etc.G.Smith, Alistair Hopkins. (2/93).
The Blue House E5 6a 20m.Located in Blue House Cave. Climbs the obvioue left leaning flake thing on north..?..G.Smith. (2000?).

Fedw Fawr (Left Hand) 42 Moves F6b New route. On the Left hand (Sea) side of Fedw Fawr crag left of Albin and Co F6c+ A line of 5 resin bolts leads the way through the steep / overhanging horizontal breaks to the blanker headwall above. Some thinner moves gain a grassy ledge and the 2 bolt lower off above. A fun route which overhangs by 2 metres with an entertaining crux at the top! FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett 17/02/08 (Climbed on my 42nd Birthday in sub zero temperatures!)

Porth-Y Garan
Lower grade small crag - north of Rhoscolyn. See mini-guide here -> Porth-Y-Garan Miniguide. All these routes were first climbed by Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
Unless specified all routes first climbed by Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
From Topo plus new routes 03-09-09(Routes added by E Russell may be graded wrongly as I have no prior experience in FA! also someone must have done some of these before?)

Rostam's Awkward Bulge HVD Climb up the groove/corner from the bottom or leap on from above. The difficulties ease after the bulge. 3m left of Sunset Crack. Possibly worth a star(though I do say so myself) E Russell, R Namaghi, C Stevens 03-09-09
Sunset Crack VS 5a The steep crack line 4m left of golden gate, finishes directly. E Russell, C Stevens 03-09-09
Forgettable S The overhanging line left of Golden gate is ___________ though would prehaps be less so if started in the cave thingy?
E Russell(Solo) 03-09-09
Golden Gate Diff
Scimitar Diff
Va-Va-Vroom VS 4c
From the Ledge climb to the left of the hole, making a bold move over the bulge.
Blast Hole VS 4c
Climb straight up the wall to the right of the hole.

Snappy HVS 4c
1m Right of Blast Hole. Climb the wall direct to the overlap, continue on the same line above.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Central Wall S 4a
Climb the centre of the wall finiahing at a small layback flake.

Didgeridoo S 4a
Climb up the wall past two diagonal pockets to a small overlap.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Double Pocket S 4a
Climb past the double pockets at 1/3 height, then to the overlap and finsih up a thin crack.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Rising Tide S 4a
Follow the obvious rising crack line.

Double Thread VD
Start as for Rising Tide, but take the parrellel cracks above on jugs to the top.
K.M.Bromfield, P.A.James (20/07/08)

Garanteed VD
The left hand crack.
Pickpocket VD
Follow the right hand pocketed crack.
Descent Mod/Diff
Puncture VS 4c
The Overhanging crack, making a committing move to gain the easy upper section.

Spring Tide HVS 5a
2m Right of Puncture. Climb the overhanging crack on good holds with a big reach to the top.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Thugs Corner VS 4c*
Round the corner from Spring tide is an overhanging corner with twin cracks. It is quite pumpy. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09
Apparantly even crap routes merit names(just) S 4a
The crack line 1m right of Thug's corner, isn't brilliant. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09
<Insert name> HS 4b
The next crack line along. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09
<Insert Another Name> S
The arete at the end of the gangway isn't half as fun as it looks. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09
Heartbreaker Slab VS 4b
Climb the slab right of the arete, reach for top then scramble around for hidden holds. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09

FEDW FAWR NEW CRAG
Les Vacances F6b Takes the wall left of Mr Hulo. Steep Moves up the wall just right of a seepage line, past 3 bolts. Belay / lower off large blocks on the ledge above. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/05/08 Mr Hulo F6a A reachy start gains positive pockets leading to the top, 3 bolts. Belay / lower off large blocks on the ledge above. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 6/05/08 Unclimbed F6c 3 bolts passing a sloping ramp line. Sir Lobalot F6c A steep start gains the horizontal break, good holds and foot jams followed by large pocketed holds and cracks lead the way past 3 bolts. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/05/08 Statement of Roof F6c New route, takes a line of weakness through the large roof, 5 bolts lead the way…top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the large block on the ledge above. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 13/05/08 Scream to a Sigh F6c New route, start by pulling through the initial roof to the first bolt, continue past another bolt to gain the final and problematic roof (bolt) top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 6/05/08 Back in Black F5+ A steep start gains a shallow groove, move right out of this and climb the wall above past some large holds. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 14/03/08 For those about to Rock… F6a A steep start gains a shallow groove, move right out of this and climb the blunt rib / wall above. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 14/03/08 We Salute You! F6a+ The obvious line of weakness, a steep start leads to an easier groove above. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 14/03/08 The Missing Link F6b New route, (start below a ledge with a rusty chain wedged in a break) to the left of Rockferry 2 bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08 Rockferry F6a+ New route, balancy climbing up the middle of the wall, 3 bolts lead the way top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08 Rock Monster F6b New route to the right of Rockferry start below a line of 4 bolts, pass the first by strenuously pulling on pockets to gain the break (crux) easier climbing remains, top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08

Mousetrap Zawn

TimNeill — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:46:11 CDT

SEASONAL RESTRICTIONS

This venue is subject to a seasonal restriction due to nesting birds from the 1st February to the 31st July. Breaking nthis ban will seriously affect access to the entire area. For more details visitTHE BMC REGIONAL ACCESS DATABASE.

Often when looking at these walls I am appalled by their quality, the climbing is great as you weave yourself in and out of what appears at time to be a giant wormery.

View and Edit Mousetrap Zawn Topo

A Winter's Tail 97m E5

Climbs the left side of the Hysteresis wall finishing up the hanging face in the top left corner of the zawn.

1 37m 5c As for Hysteresis.

2 35m 5c Traverse left for 8m then climb the compact red wall to a break. Pull past a bulge on the left then climb trending rightwards on gritty rock to a blunt rib leading to the slanting turf break below the headwall. Belays in short vertical crack over on the left.
3 25m 6a Climb up and over the roof above the belay and continue past a second overhang before heading leftwards across the wall to top out via the obvious groove.

13.12.2001, P Littlejohn, D Garner [Note: p2 may share some ground with Two Fat Slabs, which we didn't know about at the time. If so, adding p3 of Winter's Tail to that route would make for a long & sustained hard route.]

Two Fat Slabs E5

Climbs the wall left of Hysteresis. Start below the left most part of the wall, below some green balls. 'Mosscampion'.
1 27m. 6a. Climb up left of the balls and over a roof to belay on the same ledge, but further left than Hysteresis, on some spikes (hanging off the ledge).
2 40m. 6a. Climb straight up on excellent red rock, through a bulge, to a ledge. Climb over the break/roof to the next break/roof. Move up and right to join Hysteresis as it passes through the blank rock.
3 15m. 4c. As for Hysteresis, pitch 3.

M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1997).

***Hysteresis 89m E4 (R) (1973)
Two brilliant pitches up the centre of the attractive golden wall, strenuous and sustained. The route is prone to some seepage and is a bit messy at the start of the season, being a fashionable social scene for birds (feathered). Start in the middle of the wall, at a ledge about 6m above the sea.
1 37m. 5c. Climb easily up the wall for 6m and go over a slight bulge to a reddish band. Go through this to a horizontal break, then climb rightwards until the higher break can be gained. Move back left to a crack in the roof, poor peg. Fluster over the roof and quickly layback up to a good ledge and belay.
2 37m. 5c. Slightly harder climbing up leftwards now gains the large obvious niche. Weave up the wall heading for the sentry-box and boldly exit it onto the slab. Continue carefully up the wall, and go slightly left to a peg belay in a chimney.
3 15m. 4c. Climb the unprotected arête to belays well back.

**Catatonia 90m E5 (R)

The narrow face between Hysteresis and Primate/Final Front-Ear. An eliminate but with good bold climbing on solid rock. Shares the first 20m with Final Front-Ear.
1 40m 6a Follow Primate towards the arête then go straight up a cracked wall 3m left of the arête to a break. Climb leftwards through an area of steep contorted rock to the base of a smooth orange wall (Friend 4 in keyhole slot). Pull on to the wall and make a committing sequence leftwards and up to the belay of Hysteresis.
2 50m 5c Move 4m right and up to a good spike, break through a niche on to the wall and climb via the obvious groove to a break. Swing right then up past some strange slots to an open face which is climbed to more rugged ground leading to the apex of the wall.

14.12.2001 P Littlejohn, D Garner

The Final Front-Ear 70m E6 (R)

1 35m. 6b. First take thin cracks, 5 metres right of Hysteresis to the big breaks. Now thrust up the overhanging jugs, with little protection, and cling on to place a Hex 11 in the lip. Step up the warp factor and traverse right on little holds, crux, to reach the 'ear'. Easier climbing leads to the belay, on Primate. A challenging enterprise.
2 35m. 5c. Follow a hand crack through the overhang and up the wall to a good thread. Move left on amazing pockets then go up and rightwards to join Primate to finish.

Paul Prichard, Gwion Hughes. (14/8/97).

**Primate 96m E2 (R) (1967)
Steep climbing with not much protection, followed by easier climbing with less, but all in a fine position on the right arête of the Hysteresis wall. Start as for Hysteresis, at the ledge in the middle of the wall.
1 34m. 5b. Climb to the arête, up a short wall to reach a ledge, then swing around the arête into an overhanging groove, and ascend this to a peg stump. Make some blind moves left around the arête, easing quickly once on the front face, and go up to a small ledge. Climb a groove for five metres to belay on a pinnacle. A very fine pitch. A more solid variant is to climb the obvious face cracks 3m left of the arete at 5c and then traverse right to the small ledge.
2 25m. 4c. Go up the obvious weakness to the ledge on the right side of the arête, then climb the wall three metres right of the arête.
3 37m. 4c. Climb straight to the top on the left-hand side of the arête.

**Rosebud 21m E6 6a. (R) (1986)
Starting from sea level, an extremely overhanging thin wall lives beneath the pleasantries of Primate. Big moves on snappy holds, relaying on old pegs for protection, make this a real attraction! Start on a tidal ledge, beneath a gigantic chockstone. Climb the left-hand side of the chockstone and swing onto the steep wall on the left, often wet. A peculiar move up brings large holds and two peg runners within reach. Race up the steep wall to reach Primate on the arête. From here, most of the previous routes can be tracked.

Primevil 92m HVS (R) (1966)
An exciting but unpopular route, due to poor rock. Start at the right-hand end of the overhangs in the corner of the zawn.
1 30m. 4c. Climb the slab at its easiest point to a groove on the left of the huge Green Slab. Go up the broken groove to belay below a small roof.
2 25m. 4c. Climb the groove, and go up easier rock until a small stance is reached. 3 25m. 4c. Climb the groove until it eases, and curves right.
4 12m. 4c. Go over the roof on the left, and finish easily up a groove.

**The Green Slab 106m HVS (R) (1966)
Good open climbing up the huge slab in the centre of the zawn, but it should not be approached carelessly; this is a very serious route, runners and belays are scarce and the top out is death on a stick. Take plenty of long slings. Start to the right of Primevil, below a large groove defining the lower right-hand part of the slab.
1 23m. 4b. Climb the left wall of the groove, trending left to an obvious break on the arête. Thread belay just left of the arête.
2 23m. 4b. Climb the crack above diagonally left into the corner, and go up to belay, as for Primevil, below a small roof.
3 30m. 4b. Move onto the slab, and take the easiest line up and right to a small stance.
4 30m. 4b. Climb the short wall above into the long diagonal breach, then follow this leftwards to the top, with a generous pinch of exposure. The transition from rock to dirt (with no change of angle) will be the most worrying section of the route for many: keep going in the same line as the breach.

***Helmet Boiler 100m E5 (R) (1984)
An impressive and hostile line, cunningly working it's way through some unreliable territory in the middle of the zawn. Start six metres to the left of Mousetrap, at the foot of a groove leading to an overhang at 12 metres. An easy ride for the second!
1 25m. 4c. Ascend to a ledge level with an overhang on the left, and climb under this to a groove. Follow this to an awkward belay where it steepens and becomes difficult.
2 30m. 5c. Climb the right-hand wall above trending to the arête which is followed to a peg beneath some overhangs. Reluctantly traverse right for five metres, only lured on by the welcome ledge in no man's land. Carefully leave the ledge trending slightly right, peg, until a traverse line beneath overhangs leads leftwards via a flake edge to the right-hand side of The Green Slab.
3 30m. 4b. Follow the edge of the slab to belay at it's top.
4 15m. 5a. Surmount a bulge, and go right over another bulge into a groove.

Dai you Late E5

A left to right diagonal route across the whole of the Mousetrap Zawn.

1. 5b.Climb the crack direct up the front of the Wedge to the Helmet Boiler belay. Left of Helmet Boiler firs pitch.

2. 40m.6a. Climb over a buldge above the belay and traverse a break rt below the Helmut Bioler to a corner. Difficuly moves rtwards across a steep wall brings a belay on death trap. sandy runners!

3. 45m. 6b.Climb Death trap for 30 feet to abulge and traverse around a nose to a steep wall. Tricky moves bring easier ground which leads to Mantrap belay. Dai made horizontal lunge and wailing sounds on the lead, I wondered about seconding the pitch or not!

4. Start up a crack (rt of another roadside attraction) and after 20ft wander up rt to the top rt hand side of the zawn. Head for the Vaynol at top speed!

Twid/Dai alts. 2000 ish

***Mousetrap 128m E2 (R) (1966)
Visually and mentally stunning, this route sums up everything that is best about British sea cliff climbing. The outcome is in doubt until the final moves. There's a distinct sense of loneliness in this zawn. Easy for the grade and nowhere technical, but very imposing. Care is needed to protect both leader and second alike. Start by the left of two grooves, left of a large sea cave. The groove leads to a pillar, which is left of a huge grey corner.
1 45m. 5a. Climb the groove and go up to the top of the pillar. Move down and right, beneath a large corner, to below the corrugated flutings/chimneys. This point can be gained direct up the groove below. Enter the chimney via a difficult move and pull round the rib immediately to the next. One can continue up the first chimney, but this is harder. Continue up to easier ground and a slab. This easy slab is crossed rightwards to belay on a good ledge at its end.
2 46m. 5a. Carefully climb the wall above, a bit mystifying at first, to reach a slanting groove. Worrying moves entering this are followed by a much more casual plod up the green ramp in a fine position. Continue passed a peg to a belay just below the top of the ramp.
3 37m. 5a. Step right out of the niche above onto the red wall, with a difficult section to gain a groove on the right. Go more easily to the top.

**Death Trap 128m E5 (R)
A very impressive and serious route based on the obvious striking central slanting chimney of the Zawn. Superseded by the direct variations. Start from the right hand-side of the zawn, almost level with the big stance on Mousetrap. Warthog pegs are recommended for pitch 1, as well as a large rack of cams and slings.
1 14m 5b. Worryingly scramble up the muddy pillar to the right of the large sea cave, moving up and leftwards to a grass ledge, roughly level with the Mousetrap belay. Continue left across the muddy break until it is possible to make a slightly descending traverse to belay, as for Mousetrap.
2 12m 4a. Move easily across the big slab, step round an arête, and go up for five metres to a poor belay.
3 40m 5b. Go out right to the left edge of the main slanting chimney. Follow the chimney until it steepens then climb up straight up to enter an easier corner, which leads into Mousetrap. Follow this to the top of the slab.
4 12m 5a. Surmount the bulge above the stance then up to a right facing corner. Continue straight up to finish.

Variations:

**Direct Start E5(R) (2003)
1a 20m 5c. This gains the main slanting chimney at the earliest available moment. Start by the right-hand side of the sea cave. Climb up right of the cave to a ledge on the left, level with the lip of the cave. Arrange warthog protection and make a long and committing span left onto the wall and left again to gain the main diagonal line. Climb up this to the Mousetrap belay. FA: W.Perrin, P.Robins.

***Death Trap Direct E5 (R) (1988)
2a 45m. 5b. An awesome and logical direct on the original. One of the finest pitches at Gogarth. From the stance on Mousetrap, climb straight up the slanting chimney past a worrying steepening, to regain the original line.
FA: C.Waddy, G.Huges.

Cannibal Pizza E3 (R)

1 5b. Climb the wall right of Mousetrap pitch one. Traverse right as for The Head Strimmer and traverse 20ft further. Continue up a grove to the belay of Mantrap.
2 6a. Climb the wall left of Mantrap over a bulge to a ledge. A good pitch.
3 5b. Climb the wall right of The Head Strimmer up hidden pockets on excellent rock to the top.

Twid and Louise 2000 some time. We have also climbed The Head Strimmer and found out later Dave and Adam had done the line. We are totally happy our line is different having done both routes

The Head Strimmer 110m E4 (R)

1.45m. 5b. As for Mousetrap, pitch 1.
2.10m. 5b. From the ledge, climb diagonally right for 8 metres to a volcano, clove hitch. Step right onto a red wall and climb directly to the sloping ledge belay, on Mantrap.
3. 30m. 6a. This pitch unfolds in the area between Mantrap and Another Roadside Attraction. Leave the ledge, climbing the flake above through two stepped roofs and into the right facing groove, joining Another Roadside Attraction. Belay on the left.
4. 25m. 5b. Climb left for 3 metres towards a shattered pillar, beneath the centre of a red wall. Climb up on pockets to a crumbly groove finish

D.Towse, A.Wainwright (AL).(1997)

***Mantrap100m E3 (R) (1969)
A very good route centred on a short sandy chimney, hidden (from some view points), in the middle of the red wall. The first pitch is very serious. Start from sea level, right of the large cave.
1 50m. 4c. Carefully work up the tottering pillar to the right of the muddy break, right of the large sea cave, for about 30 metres. Arrange decent protection on the right, then cross the muddy section to gain the wall proper. Follow a ramp into a short corner and belay on a sloping ledge above.
2 30m. 5b. From the left-hand end of the ledge, climb diagonally left and over a bulge, heading for the obvious overhanging chimney. Shuffle up this to gain the red wall above then move right until it is possible to climb straight up. Belay on the right.
3 20m. 5b. Traverse right for three metres, then pull up and left over a bulge and follow a weakness rightwards onto easier ground.

Another Roadside Attraction E4 (R)

A fine route with an excellent, but tiring, main pitch up the red wall on the right side of the zawn. Start from sea level, right of the large cave.
1 50m 4c. As for Mantrap, pitch 1. A very serious pitch.
2 30m 6a. From the right side of the ledge, go rightwards, then up on awkward holds to gain a shallow left-facing corner and overhang above. Strenuously pull onto the smooth wall above and continue up, heading for the stance on Mantrap.
3 21m. 5b. Climb above the belay for three metres, then move left to a slight right-facing corner. Ascend this and the wall above.

*Bedlam 96m E3 (R) (1966)
A good, bold route, taking a line through the poor rock on the right side of the zawn. Start from sea level, right of the large cave.
1 50m. 4c. As for Mantrap, pitch 1. Carefully work up the tottering pillar to the right of the muddy break, right of the large sea cave, for about 30 metres. Arrange decent protection on the right, then cross the muddy section to gain the wall proper. Follow a ramp into a short corner and belay on a sloping ledge above. A very serious pitch.
2 23m. 5b. From the right side of the ledge, go rightwards across the red wall to reach grey rock on the edge of a pillar. Climb up a shallow chimney, peg, to belays below a curving crack.
3 23m. 5a. Ascend the crack for a couple of metres, then step right and climb the steep broken groove.

Valdini

Original Girdle

New Girdle

The Main Cliff

TimNeill — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 12:47:36 CDT

The best bit of the best cliff in the world. This is what dreams are made of: a sweep of rock so steep and so severe that most people run away scared. There is a section of this cliff where 15 consecutive routes are E5 and above. Despite the Big Boyz feel to the place there are several outstanding routes in the lower end of the extreme spectrum and even a couple easier than that. The rock is generally good, but it sometimes takes the sun to rid the crag of a damp feel and frequently conditions are best just after the sun hits the crag in the late morning.

View or edit Main Cliff topos
Main Cliff Left topo
Main Cliff Right topo

Approach

The first routes on the southern part of the main cliff are accessed via the path from South Stack towards Holyhead mountain. Just after you pass the radar station and just before you get to Holyhead mountain a track leads down to the racking up spot, above a gully. The top of the gully is under cut massively and not a good place to stand and admire the view.

Descend the gully and then follow the path below the Upper Tier to a fork that leads down to the sea-level traverse which is tide-dependent for all the routes beyond the Gogarth Pinnacle.

Access by the competent to the far end of the Main Cliff is possible by approaching as for Easter Island. Take a spare rope. Continue toward Main Cliff and slightly downhill to reach the large boulder where you would coil up after escaping this side of MC. Abseil 70>100' from a block on the top of the escape gully to a belay on the easy angled grassy area then make a roped scramble to the belay above Mestizo. Set up your spare rope to get to the Hustler bay or Phaedra area. This avoids the long sea level traverse and return walk and allows you to see off a few routes in a day. Not recommended for those new to the cliff.

Further to the above, head left from the top of the Easter Island Gully to find this block (see Photo) a 100m ab takes you down to the bottom of Heroin/Phaedra/Hustler as you wish. One or two re-belays recommended to direct the rope. Take water and snacks down to your re-belay and knock off as many routes as you can! To the left (looking out goes) down Heroin. To the right (looking out) sets you up for Phaedra and Hustler.

The routes

Interrogator

Interpolator

Sunstroke E1 *

One of the first routes to catch the morning sun. Approach as for Cordon Bleu etc by a careful scramble down from beneath Bezel to belay as for Cordon Bleu at a large embedded flake in a small grassy bay. Initially takes the obvious rampline (left of embedded flake).

1.30m 5b Climb the rampline leftwards into the corner at 10m - old peg. Layback the big crack on the right to a rest at a horizontal break. Using small sidepulls & undercuts traverse back left, crossing the rampline & move round an arete into a corner. Belay. 2. 25m 5b Climb above the belay up the corner athletically to an escape left. Finish diagonally left up the easier flake crack of Diogenes .

Diogenes

Variation

Direct Start (starts up Resolution)

Pola-ride E4 6b This is now "MIstaken Identity" as it would appear that the first pitch was actually Sunstroke. Rather butch climbing!
1. The first pitch of Diogenes.
2. Move right from the Diogenes belay around a rib until beneath two cracks running the length of a steep wall. Pull into the right hand crack, climb this by strenuous laybacking until the slab above is reached. Climb direct for a few moves until a balancy move left puts you into the corner system that leads easily to the top. Approximately 30 metres. It would be possible to climb the 1st and second pitch together with careful ropework and fit arms. This would give a pretty good and sustained pitch.
Nick Bullock/ Dan McMannus. 19/6/08 pointed at this by Simon Marsh who has done an amazing cleaning job whle checking routes for the new guide.

Achilles E3 50m **.

The obvious crack left of Diogenes. Start as for Diogenes.

1.10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.

2.40m. 5c. Climb the crack to a big flake at 17m. From its top make hard moves tup the crack, a strenuous finale leads to the last moves of Diogenes.

Pat Littlejohn, John Mothersele. (9/91).
Achilles cleaned 29th Sept 07 as part of guidebook work. Good route.

Coming on Strong E6 50m.

The immaculate orange face left of Achilles. Sustained climbing in the upper part. Start as for Diogenes.

1.10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.

2.40m. 6b/c. Climb the slabby face left of Achilles, then bear right till beside the big flake on that route. Move left and up a groove to an overhang, then break back right to a rest spot. Climb the twin cracks left of Achilles to a peg, then launch up left on a shallow ramp to another thin crack. Pull past the bulge on the right until good holds lead up the final face.

Pat Littlejohn, Mark Diggins. (10/91).
Coming on Strong cleaned 29th Sept 07 as part of guidebook work

Revelation

Cordon Bleu VS**

A cheeky route that makes a high girdle of the main cliff in a devious fashion, and has bags of exposure for a straight forward, if somewhat commiting route
.

Seeyerlater

Aardvark E2 6a **

A fine sustained route that is something of a dichotomy part bold, part well protected and difficult. When linked with The Eternal Optomist makes a fine day out at the grade.
FA Al Evans, G Milburn, B Winteringham, Jim Moran. 23/7/78
.

Imitator VS 60m *

A worthwhile route, which when linked with Bezel on the upper tier makes another fine outing.

Lardvark E2 6a 37m. (no harder than Aardvark)

Start up Imitator to small overlap. Surmount it and climb a little finger crack to join Aardvark just below it's crux. Do this and continue straight up a thin crack above to the top.

M.Crook, Rich Cutler. (6/93).
Lardvark cleaned 6th October as part of guidebook work - seems much harder than the grade given.- not really only E2

Emulator E1 ***

An amazing feature that feels like it goes on forever, it climbs the obvious corner just before the gogarth pinnacle. Climb the corner to the top, remember to save some gear for the top half! Reccomend 60m ropes if you don't want to belay on crud
.

Stimulator E3 5c **

Stimulator cleaned 6th October as part of guidebook work. Good route
.

Simulator

Devils Marbles E5 6b 55m

The wall and grooves right of Resolution Direct. Follow the crack right of Resolution up to a wall below the first roof. A few thin moves brings the roof. Lunge out of the right side of the roof to good holes. Attack the following roof via the crack that leads to the small corner. Hard moves lead to easier ground which is taken to a ledge right of the Resolution belay. Mike Twid Turner and Stuart McAleese, May 2006
.

Resolution
.

Resolution Direct
1. 43m. 5a. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Up this then the corner/groove above until moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2. 48m. 5b (can feel harder when greasy). Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right, climb it past a trying section to reach a flake crack on the left. Up this (possible belay for masochists) then launch leftwards up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays.

Gogarth E1 ***

A fine route with varied and interesting climbing. Start on the right side of the large pinnacle at the right hand end of the main cliff.
1. 20m. 4b. Up the wide crack in the corner to belay on top of the pinnacle.
2. 20m. 5a. Step back down a little, then briskly rightwards across a steep wall and around the arête to the sanctuary of a shallow groove. Up this, bearing left around an overlap, then move left to a large sloping ledge directly above the previous belay.
3. 35m. 4c. Climb the short crack above the left end of the ledge then trend rightwards to a good ledge (possible belay). Up the steep groove, the right side of a large flake, to a stance on top of the flake.
4. 40m. 5b. Go rightwards (7m) to a ledge below a steep crack. Up this, not as positive as one would like to start with, then continue in the same line to the top.
Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen, 1964.

Devotee E2

1. 5b.Diagonally left from the start of Gogarth across face of pinnacle. Line not that obvious till you get on it and the moves up to the arete seemed hard for 5a.
2. 5c. Short and sharp direct off Gogarth Pinnacle then nondescript climbing slightly left to theGogarth belay, climb diagonally right to a groove, exit left to a belay at the base of the big flake on Gogarth.
3. 5b.The slabby wall left of the Gogarth flake. Looks completely green and hairy but holds were just clear (well done my mate for having a go on the sharp end despite appearances) and there were decent runners about half way up. A gritty topout is avoidable by moving into Gogarth. (possibly easier if clean). Could be avoided completely by going up Gogarth for a pitch. Well worth continuing one way or another as top pitch is excellent
4.5c. A really good exposed pitch with no green hair to speak of. Start up and right as for the last pitch of Gogarth but take the first groove/crack you come to. It gets steep and exposed and feels committing at one point although there is decent gear.

Return to Garth Gog E4

A modern eliminate based around Gogarth.

1 23m. 6a. Climb the overhanging crack in the front face of the Gogarth Pinnacle. Well protected but strenuous.

2 6a. Start in the crack of Falls Road and after 8 metres, climb up and right via sloping holds to the right hand side of a sloping ledge.

3 4c. Ramble and climb to the base of Gogarth, pitch 4 (the big corner).

4 50m. 5c. Climb the obvious flaky crack to its junction with the top pitch of Gogarth. Finish as for Gogarth.

Mike Turner, Louise.Thomas, Graham MacMahon. (11/94).

Falls Road E4

Bubbly Situation Blues E4

A good strenuous first pitch, but the second pitch is very overgrown. Start from the first stance of Rat Race, a ledge on the pinnacle.

1.25m. 6a. Follow the steep groove on the left of the ledge to a respite, then steep again above in a good position to gain a smelly ledge. Continue up the easier groove to gain ledges and a mediocre belay on the right (friend 0, couple of ok wires).

2. A bit of a blind alley. Step back left and follow the technical groove for a few m. Either attempt to follow the original line, left across the thin totally lichenous slab to the top of the Rat Race chimney, or bail out right to unprotected but easier overgrown rock up to a belay on Cordon Bleu. The cleaner continuation groove is the obvious line but desperate and unprotected
.

The Rat Race E3 **

Good climbing with some very impressive scenery. Start on the large ledge to the left of the Gogarth pinnacle. At high tide or in high seas the traverse around the base of the pinnacle is inadvisable and the start of pitch 2. can be reached by climbing over the pinnacle (via Gogarth pitch one).
1. 12m. 5a. Steeply up the wall just to the left of the pinnacle to the large ledge on the pinnacle.
2. 30m. 5c. Step left and climb diagonally left to a tricky move up at 8m. Continue in the same line reach and climb an open chimney to a curving overlap. Follow this leftwards and up in a fine position; steep, strenuous and usually seeping. Continue up right onto a steep slab leading to a well-positioned stance. Great stuff.
3. 25m. 5b. Climb the intimidating brown chimney directly above, brittle and poorly protected, exiting rightwards. Up the slab to belay on Cordon Bleu, to the right of the tip of a large flake.
4. 20m. 4c. Shuffle down and right to climb a steep groove, the left side of a large flake, to a stance at the top as for Gogarth 3rd belay.
5. 30m. 5a Go back down slightly and left across the wall to a crackline. Up this, following the right branch. Move left around a rib to an easier crack, up this belaying well back.

Joe Brown and Pete Crew (1966) - several competing teams involved, hence the name
.

Ordinary Route E5 ***

A proper route! A good first pitch, the best section of Positron and a stupendous 3rd pitch. Start on the large ledge 3 metres left of the Gogarth pinnacle as for Rat Race, Positron.
1. 35m. 6a. Climb steeply, bearing slightly rightwards then slightly left to the Rat Race traverse. From 5m along this, climb a shallow black groove, stepping left at its top. From a pillar up and R (cam), climb the short, ridiculously steep, golden wall, pulling left into the easier angled groove with some difficulty. Up the groove to the second Rat Race belay. Ideally, belay in an excellent position on the arete (good spikes and medium Friends) to prevent snagging in Positron crack to give a fine view of the following pitch.
2. 30m. 5c. As for Positron, pitch 3. Reverse Dinosaur to belay at an old peg, level with the Positron overhang. Large cams and wires for belay.
3. 40m. 5c. Step down and teeter left along the obvious ledge into a groove (on Mammoth) and up this to a small ledge. Go left across the steep wall on the obvious line of holds, or down and left (indirect, but a little easier) into Citadel. Up this to small ledges on the left. Across these and up a short corner (Graduation Ceremony) then move left across a very sloping ledge, around an outside corner to a large sloping ledge and belay.
4. 35m. 5b. Climb the steep groove to the left of the belay to a shallow cave. Take the right hand crack to finish.
Alec Sharp, Chris Dale, 1975.

Positron E5 ***

An audacious line and the quintessential Gogarth E5. The difficulties are not as great as they can seem on first acquaintance, especially if one of the easier options is taken on the middle pitch. Start on the large ledge just left of the Gogarth pinnacle, as for Rat Race, Ordinary Route.
1. 18m. 5b. Climb diagonally up and right into a scoop then back left via a flake heading towards the arête. From a ramp on the arête, trend diagonally back right to belay under the curving overlap.
2. 12m. 6a. You are aiming for the Rat Race second belay. There are several ways of getting there:
(a) 6a. The first ascentionist’s line: pull up to stand on the big juggy spikes, then traverse horizontally left with hands just above the next roof into the groove of Alien. Up this. Exposed, hard, and strenuous.
(b) 6a. In the spirit of the original: Continue 10’ further up the wall from the juggy spikes. Move round the arête, level with an obvious rugosity, into the disconcertingly holdless groove. Unexpectedly on-off for a couple of moves.
(c) 5c. Cop out straight up or rightwards to join Rat Race. The line of least resistance, but you will have not have climbed Positron.
3. 30m. 5c. Make sure your belayer is positioned so they can see you on the headwall, it's quite easy to snag the ropes in the crack otherwise. From the spike on the arête, follow the crack across the headwall for a few feet. Steep. Get the gear in, scuttle back to the spike and regain your composure. Admire the view, watch the seals and make a mental note to avoid leading the chimney pitch should you ever find yourself on Rat Race. Re-rack your gear, tighten your boots and indulge in any other procrastination your second will tolerate. Once you have lost any benefit of the warm-up, commit to the wall again. The crack fades, forcing a harder move up. Traverse horizontally left for 10' to the small overhang. Get on with it here: it’s easier than it looks. Good gear can be had at the overhang but it’s still steep and fiddly to place. One more awkward move up round the left side of the overhang and it’s all over. A few more feet on the same line and you are in the Dinosaur grove. Stitch together an adequate belay and focus your camera on the traverse to the overhang for the 1978 guide cover-shot. Finish up Dinosaur, Cordon Bleu or, for more of the same, the last pitch of Ordinary Route.
Alan Rouse, Pete Minks 1971 (5pt aid). FFA A.Sharp
.

Eraserhead E5 **

Good climbing based on the square cut left arete of the lower wall and the right arete of the Positron headwall. High in the grade.

1.30m. 6a. Start from the large ledge just left of the Gogarth pinnacle. Climb the left arete of the wall to join Positron at the end of pitch 1. Continue up the arete to gain the belay at the end of The Rat-Race pitch 2, below the Positron headwall.

2.30m. 6a. From the spike on the arête, get some gear in the initial crack of the Positron headwall. Climb boldly up the overhanging right arête of the headwall in a very spectacular position. Belay on Cordon Bleu. I would recommend finishing up Alien. G.Farquhar, C.Waddy AL (on-sight), 1988

ET E6
Start by taking the Skinhead Moonstomp corner direct.
1. 6b. Climb the corner direct left of Positron until level with the Positron belay traverse right to belay. This climbs higher than the original traverse and is quite spicy!
2. 5c. As for Rat Race
3. 6b.Climb the slim pillar left of theRat Race chimney.

The crack in the arête is attacked direct via hard long reaches. A good runner is reached then continue on spaced holes to the cordon bleu traverse. 4. Finish as for Cordon Bleu. Twid and Louise Thomas. The 3rd pitch is excellent and totally independent of all other pitches.

Skinhead Moonstomp E6 ***

A totally amazing route, one of the best E6 outings on Gogarth. On the other hand, some people claim this route is overrated and the big pitch is a poor eliminate (but I bet they failed to flash it ;-). It takes an incredible line up the very centre of the Positron headwall. You get the highlights of Positron and The Big Sleep into the bargain. The first pitch takes the large corner at the base of the Positron headwall.

1.18m. 6a. Climb the corner and surmount a small bulge below where the corner fades into masssive overhangs. Traverse rightwards to reach the belay at the end of Positron pitch 1.

2.40m. 6b. Follow Positron leftwards into the groove of Alien. Continue left and up to gain a shallow niche, no-hands rest and good runners. You are now at the very base of the headwall and above you is an amazing soaring flakeline. Enjoy the view. Climb out of the niche to gain the flake and layback up this in a fantastic and increasingly pumpy position. The flakeline eventually peters out at a small flake (very thin sling runner). Continue straight up on face holds to join the headwall pitch of Positron.Follow Positron for a few moves to a good shake-out before the traverse to the overhang. The remainder of the route is common with The Big Sleep.Step right and climb a vertical crack which leads to the "bucket seat" belay in the apex of the headwall. Congratulations.

It's best to do a short pitch from the bucket seat belay to belay again on Cordon Bleu before choosing a finish.

A.Pollitt, S.Lewis (1984)

Alien E6 ***

One of the most striking lines on the Main Cliff and the hardest of the three star E5s - hence the E6 grade! Combined with Positron's 3rd pitch makes for one of the best routes of the grade in the Stratosphere. Start up the slanting crackline to the right of the Dinosaur Chimney.

1. 6b.Steep bridging up the crack leads to a series of committing layback and undercut moves to reach a small roof (crucial runner). From here, a very unobvious sequence of blind slaps will probably not establish you in the groove above. Follow this easily to the Positron belay. Take cam 4 and a 1/2.

2. Climb the chimney of Rat Race, then slabs to reach the Cordon Bleu traverse line and belay. (I thought you were supposed to exit left after a few metres and climb the difficult groove?) Yes, the exit left is the proper line, hard and hairy - probabl through lack of traffic.

3. Move right to the base of an obvious crackline and follow this, very sustained, to a difficult move leftwards out of the top of the crack (lots of medium cams useful).

Pat Littlejohn, 1980
Variation

1a. Direct start to Alien E6 6b

Climb the crack direct instead of the easy ramp to its left.. Twid and G.Farquhar, 1989
.

Dinosaur E5 *** (E4 compared to the other E5s, with modern, small cams, the 'bold runout' is no longer. However the crux of the first pitch is often greasy and is difficult in these conditions.)

A classic - well protected with good holds, but steep throughout. A good introduction to the harder Main Cliff routes. A full set of cams and slings are useful. Start at the base of an obvious chimney 10 metres left of the ledge at the base of Positron.

1. 6b.Climb the chimney (often damp) until it steepens at a small roof (large friend up and right). Swing out left onto the wall (crux) and climb with some urgency (small cams useful) on increasingly better holds to belay on vague ledges just to the left of the continuation chimney (gear up and left for the belay).

2. 5b.Pull rightwards into the base of the steep chimney and follow this, without any particularly hard moves, but extremely sustained throughout, to reach the ledges of Cordon Bleu.

3. 5c.A fine and enjoyable pitch. Traverse rightwards for 5 metres until below a short black wall. A tricky boulder problem leads to a ledge. Arrange gear and swing rightwards into the groove in the arete. Follow this thoughtfully to the top.

P.Crew and J.Brown,1966. FFA R.Fawcett,1980

The Big Sleep E6 **

A superb and intricate line with difficult route finding on the second pitch. The first pitch should not to be underestimated in less than perfect conditions. Belay below the Dinosaur chimney. (2nd pitch is a poor eliminate? Climbable with a one foot in Dinosaur? - don't remember it feeling that way - TB. I think its a great pitch - SL)

1.6a.Follow Dinosaur for 15 metres until it is possible to step left onto the pillar (peg). Climb the pillar and trend leftwards on flat holds into a groove. Continue up the wall on more flat and sloping holds (sustained) to reach the Dinosaur belay.

2.6b.Traverse rightwards across the chimney of Dinosaur and follow undercuts to a large foothold and obvious flake crack (large wire). From here, climb fairly directly (small wires), just a few metres right of the Dinosaur chimney, with a move rightwards to reach a flat hold at the traverse line of Positron, just to the right of the roof. Turn the roof and trend rightwards to the Bucket Seat belay. (Note: This is the Variation as described in the 1991 guide book and is probably the more logical and frequently climbed.)

Ron Fawcett, Jim Moran(1980). Direct on pitch 2 by J.Redhead

Mammoth E5 ***

The black sheep of the E5 family with a powerful crux sequence on the first pitch and a typically intricate, bold and pumpy second pitch. Start at the left-facing corner between the chimneys of Mammoth Direct and Dinosaur.

1. 6b.Climb the the corner and traverse leftwards below the roof to a rest. Psyche up and power through the bulges above, on pockets (old pegs and big cams), until you can step left as the angle eases into the respite of a small corner. Breathe. Follow better holds left of the groove and climb the wall above, moving right to belay on a good ledge.

2.5c.Move rightwards from the belay onto a vague rib. Climb up using fins until it is possible to pull left into the groove (peg). Follow this, sustained throughout to exit via the left-facing corner at the top.

3. ?

FFA A.Pollitt

Variation:

Mammoth - Direct Finish

3 40m. 6a. Up the short wall as for Dinosaur, then go straight up the open corner above and continue direct to the top.

Eddie Cooper, P.Littlejohn. (21/5/95).

Wall of Fossils

First pitch worth 6b, second pitch is crap and very eliminate.

Mammoth Direct 30m E6 6b ***

The massive vertical chimney slot which bounds the right hand side of the impressive white wall taken by Extinction and Hunger. Sustained climbing with good protection. Steep bridging leads up the chimney and onwards to a junction with the first pitch of Mammoth just before it's crux. Finish up this.

A.Pollitt and M.Crook, 26/5/84.

Extinction 30m E8 6b ***

Takes the wall right of Hunger. Climb the wall immediately left of the chimney (Mammoth Direct) until it is possible to move left and up to a flake with good runners. Move left along the obvious line to a spike and runner, crux moves lead straight up to another spike and then to a peg (missing) where improving holds lead up past the roofs to a wild finish.

Steve Mayers (25/4/91). Climbed ground-up over a few days by Stuart Cameron and confirmed at E8, 26/7/93. Still one of the few ground up E8 ascents in the UK.

Hunger E5***

The pristine lower white wall has a thread in it, which helps with routefinding. Wear your shades if the sun is out!
1. 20m. 6a. Climb up a short crack then break out left to gain wonderful pockets and pinches leading to a thread. Traverse left with difficulty, then up to gain the sentry box of Citadel and a no-hands rest. Climb up and right under the roof, which is split by cracks. Arrange large cams and pull blindly over the roof on jams, undercuts and fins to easier ground.

2. 20m. 5c. Climb up above the belay then traverse rightwards, aiming for a corner. Climb up this to belay on a ledge.
3. 20m. 5a. Yawn, yawn, yawn. Make your way to the top of the cliff.

P.Littlejohn, C King. 8/6/78

Variation

Ramadan E5 6b ***

2a.An excellent variation for a hungry party. Climb more or less directly up the orange wall above the belay on mostly good edges, with a hard crux past an undercut. Sustained, but with good gear if you can place it.

C.Waddy and J.Dawes,1988
.

Citadel E5***

Yet another superb line, the sustained second pitch is one of the finest at Gogarth. One short section on the first pitch is hard to on-sight, the route would be E4 6a with one point of aid here, and arguably more balanced in this form. Start 2m left of Hunger, about 12m left of the chimney of Mammoth Direct, directly beneath a line of undercut flakes.
1. 40m. 6b. Climb straight up, then bear left with more difficulty to the start of the undercut flakes. Traverse right following the flakes to a niche. Swing out left and somehow climb the leaning wall (antique inverted knifeblade) to gain a sloping shelf. Climb up and right much more easily to a long ledge below the impressive gently overhanging crack.
2. 35m. 6a. Climb the short steep wall then a move right gains the crack proper. Up this, past ancient iron (and aluminium) -mongery, finally reaching a welcome slab.
3. 25m. Easily up the groove to a good ledge and belay on the large blocks on the left. Alpine off.
Jack Street and G Hibberd (9 pts aid) 1968. FFA Ron Fawcett 1977.

Graduation Ceremony E4 ***

Borderline E4/5. Excellent climbing, if slightly overshadowed by some more famous neighbours. The main event is the crack-line parallel to the second pitch of Citadel. This has a steeper, harder crux but is not as sustained as that route. Start just left of Citadel, below small overhangs beneath a short corner. .
1. 35m 5c. Up to and through the overhang to the short corner. Climb this and swing out left, easier than it looks, then move up left to ledges. Go up a short steep corner to a large sloping ledge (First belay, Big Groove). Belay at the right hand end of the ledge beneath a steep quartzy corner.
2. 20m 6a. Up the corner, then bear rightwards to the crackline. Follow this to some ledges. Continue in the same line over some bulges then traverse right to the slab and belay of Citadel.
3. 25m. Finish as for Citadel.
Alec Sharp and R.Toomer,1976

Graduation Ceremony – Big Groove is an excellent combination at sustained E3
.

Food and Drink E6 **

1.30m.6b.Start up Graduation Ceremony and climb direct up the awesome groove, through a roof (last gear), and left on to the rib and up this to the Citadel Belay.

2.27m.6b.From the sloping ledge at the base of the main pitch of Big Groove,climb up the right side of the next groove to the right.

Food: Paul Pritchard, Ben Pritchard. (on-sight).

Drink: A.Wainwright, C.Waddy, on-sight. (27/5/92)

Tom Briggs and Adam Wainwright did the first combo. Adam led the first pitch, Tom pulled a ledge off the second and fell onto a no. 2 RP, Adam then took over a led it clean.

Second combo ascent G. Farquhar and N. Craine (AL), 1993

Sebastopol E4
A good strenuous line based on the left edge of the main section. Start 5m left of Graduation Ceromony at the base of a short crack.
1. 40m. 6a. Climb the crack to a junction with Graduation Ceremony. Go left and up into a continuation groove on the right which leads to ledges. Traverse right along the ledges and go up a short wall to belay beneath a steep quarty corner, as for Graduation Ceremony.
2. 25m. 6a. Climb the corner than break out left onto the steep wall via a slanting crack. Some very hard moves then gain the left arete. Not long now before the holds improve as a traverse back right is made to a sloping ledge. belay on the left at a thread in a crack.
3. 30m. 5a. Climb the groove on the right and the wall above to reach ledges and the top.

The Tet Offensive

2nd pitch worth 6a and bold
FA Jim Moran, P Williams. 20/5/79
.

The Wastelands - new 2nd pitch description:

2 6a. This pitch climbs the very hairy wall to the left of The Big Groove. Trend up and left on good holds to some flakes. Step right into a thin crack and make difficult moves, poor peg, to a junction with Puzzle Me Quick. Ascend the left-facing groove and exit right, around the arête, onto the hairy slab. Escape right into The Big Groove, nut belay.
FA Jim Moran, G Milburn, Al Evans 28/7/78

The Big Groove
Pegs on the 2nd belay in a poor state, belay 2m left at the start of 2nd pitch. Peg on the crux missing
.

The Big Groove Direct E4 5c***

A 3 star alternative...and a better finishing pitch than the original.

As for Big groove , Pitch 1 & 2

3.35m. 5c/6a After the crux pitch of this route take the more direct continuation corner groove/wall. (The original avoids this by taking the crumbling groove/crack out L). Climb the steep wall/corner to a protruding block (fragile). Continue up using flakey, but solid, holds to a small ledge on the arete and follow the continuation crack into the corner. Pull up and bear rightwards into a groove which is followed over a bulge to belay on easier ground.

4. The usual Main Cliff plod follows.

Pentathol HVS 5a *

A nice route with an excellent and varied first pitch. Start about 20 ft right (facing in) of the large block on the sea-level traverse. Far above and to the right you can see the right wall of Big Groove.
128m 5a. Climb up a white wall for 10 ft and then traverse rightwards boldly across the steep wall, using large flake/spike handholds to move up onto a ledge. Continue right to a corner. Climb up a few feet and then step up into the brown left-facing corner. Climb delicately up the brown wall and traverse left under the quartzy overlap (careful with rope drag). Move up into a second longer left-facing corner. Climb the corner, which is pleasantly sustained, to pull out right at the top onto a sloping ledge with belays.
2 4b Downclimb the top of the corner of pitch 1 for about 10 ft until it it possible to step across left into a corner/crack. Climb this and the wall on the left to reach a line of flakes leading diagonally up left to a stance below a groove.
3 4c (probably harder) Climb the groove above, going left around the first bulge, until below a short overhanging wall with a sloping ledge on top. Make surprisingly awkward moves up this and onto the ledge. Climb the short groove/wall to the left to a belay on top on the block.
To exit, scramble up behind the belay, climb the short green groove and continue up grassy slopes and another groove to the top. It may be best to stay roped up for this.

Peepshow
The third pitch of this route (common with Jaborandi) seems significantly harder than the first 2 pitches. Moving left before the easier ground feels more like E2 5b. There is an area of stained rock at this point. Has something fallen off?

!!!!Totally agree with the above, I thought it pretty spicey for E1 5b, possibly 5c too?? To quote Streaky(a man of 65yrs experience on the rock) as he came to the belay "you wouldn't get much change out of E3 5c" the rock quality is classic Gogarth too, care needed!. Solid E2 5c i reckon and for an E1 leader it would be epic.
Also, there's a feisty Shag nesting on the 1st belay which renders it unusable probably for a good few weeks.(on eggs)

Jaborandi

Morphine

On the 3rd pitch of Morphine, climb 2m right of Pentathol, not 5m
.

Syringe E3***

Solid at grade & previousy underrated. Harder than the Needle, easier than Assassin.

Start on top of the prominent square cut block. (The Camel and Hypodermic start in the bay to the left)

1.40m. 5c. Climb the wall to a rest and good runners (careful with drag) in the overhang. Step right into the centry box and climb aggressively over the bulge (crux) into the groove above. Follow this boldly (friable) to a further tricky move and trend leftward to a good belay ledge below a short steep wall and overhang.

2. 30m. 5c.Climb the steep wall above into the overhanging crackand follow this to a small ledge/break. Continue up the groove to the left of some bulges to a good belay ledgeand large embedded flake/boulder.This is a common belay for routes in this area.

3.Climb the cracks behind the belay and ramble to the top.

The Camel***

Hypodermic**

The Needle*** E3

FA Ray Evans, C Rogers 19/5/73
Brilliant climbing, steady for the grade with a short hard bit. Very well protected.
1. 5b. Start just left of the arete, and blast up the steep crack, which quickly eases. The corner above leads to the belay ledge, with a tricky ish move at the top.
2. 5c. Step off the right edge of the belay ledge with great exposure but loads of bomber kit. Storm up the awesome crack with loads of great gear, and big holds. The final steep bit is pretty tough for a couple of moves, with some wild laybacking. Land on the ledge, and squirm up the wide crack above (friend 4 useful), before a short easy, slightly loose bit leads to a palatial belay ledge.
3. 5a. The left hand crack in the wall gives nice climbing
Direct Finish
FA Al Evans, Jim Moran 5/7/78
.

The Assassin*** 88m E3
Some great open face climbing on pitch 2. Start 3m right of Scavenger at the foot of the left of three cracks.
1 30m. 5b. Steeply climb the flared crack then head off rightwards, climbing a big crack or the steep wall to its right to gain the belay ledge shared with The Needle.

2 40m. 5c. Climb the wall left of the belay and moving up and left through a steep section (peg) then move right to big foot-holds. Head back left to the base of the wall with a thin crack (spikes). The wall is steep but small sharp holds allow progress to a point where a span out left gains the sloping left arete. Climbing direct up the wall is much harder (6a), especially for those of normal stature and below. A sloping ledge is reached and the cracks above lead directly to two large spikes below the final crack of pitch 3.

3 18m. 4c. Race up the fine left-hand crack to the top.
Jim Moran,G Milburn, Al Evans. 11/7/78
.

Hyena

Scavenger

S Direct

Nightride

The Night Prowler * HVS 45m.
Really a variation on Scavenger Direct but with an airy leftwards slanting crack which leads into Nightride. Worthwhile

1 8m. 4c. As for Scavenger, pitch 1.

2 37m. 5a. Follow Scavenger Direct for 16 metres to an obvious overlap. Step up and left to the base of a steep crack which is followed on good holds until it is possible to step left into the bottom of the Nightride chimney/groove. Finish up this.

Pete Greening, Nick Sharp. (5/7/95)
.

Dream Seller EI 5b

FA Jim Moran, G Milburn 10/2/76

Heroin

Horse Above Water
Phaedra
Zed
Hud
Mulatto
.

Piglets Left boot E5 6b
Climb the right arête of Mestizo. Bold at start no runners. You would splash out. Till a thin crack is reached rt of Mestizo. Hard moves gain the belay.
Twid and Andy Townsend
"Andy dropped his boot into the sea while belaying, it floated for 20min then dived!"

Mestizo

The Three Musketeers **E4 5c/6a

A great pitch up the wall between Hustler and Mestizo. Step out right to gain the central juggy flake, leading to Mestizo belay. Step left and up to gain the thin crack in an area of black rock, which leads excitingly to the top. Reaching the crack is a little bold, good gear mostly thereafter, though snappy sidepulls.

Big Ron, unseconded 21.10.79

The Hustler
The Third Man* E1 5b
FA Jim Moran, Al Evans 14/5/78
Gringo

High Noon
Wrangler
The Girdle Traverse
Trunk Line
.
The Horizon E3 5c
Ed Drummond, Ben Cambell Kelly, (Al Evans on an earlier attempt) Climbed over 5 days. March 69.

Cordon Bleu, Horizon, Dream of White Horses.

A linking traverse of the Main cliff, Easter island and Wen Zawn, 26 pitches climbed in a day by Steve Long and Chris Parkin in 19..? steve will have date. SL or CP will sort out description

Other Anglesey crags

ILLJ — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 16:03:24 CDT

ght Fedw Fawr

Fedw Fawr Left Hand

42 Moves F6b New route. On the Left hand (Sea) side of Fedw Fawr crag left of Albin and Co F6c+ A line of 5 resin bolts leads the way through the steep / overhanging horizontal breaks to the blanker headwall above. Some thinner moves gain a grassy ledge and the 2 bolt lower off above. A fun route which overhangs by 2 metres with an entertaining crux at the top! FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett 17/02/08 (Climbed on my 42nd Birthday in sub zero temperatures!)

Penmon Quarry

Hamamatsu Flies Again E3 5c 27m.

An interesting varied route through big roofs on solid rock. Good gear. Ascend the scree slope directly below the cliffs to largest roof. Climb suspect rock until a groove leads directly to a corner and ledge underneath the first roof. A long sling can then be attached to an iron nail here. Traverse out, turning the roof on its left and make a hard move up to get both feet on the lip and a rest. Ascend the crack to a second roof and make a strenuous traverse left under this. …bla, bla, bla….

R.Durnford, M.Boater. (7/8/91).

?? (Driller Killer ?)

A Delicate route on mainly sound rock. Start below the obvious drill line and ascend shattered rock to an obvious crack at 5m. Good gear. Pull round the bulge with difficulty and onto the main face and the drill line where the rock becomes solid. Follow the drill line on small positive holds to a good peg (?) at 13m. Move right to a line of flakes. Move back into the drill line, and carefully trend left to gain the arête just below the obvious ledge. From the ledge, make delicate moves left on suspect rock and pull up an overhanging finish.

R.Durnford, M.Boater. (22/8/91).

…???…of Jools HVS 4c 33m.

Takes the slab and corner left of Driller Killer. Finish moving right from the ledge of Driller Killer.

M.Boater, M.Raw, R.Durnford,. (22/7/91).

?? Dee HVS 5a 40m.

Obvious hanging crack 12m left of Passions of Fools.

M.Boater, R.Durnford. (28/3/92).

Quirky Hip Gyrations E3 6b 8m.

A horizontal crack leading to a large ledge, pulling out to large holds leftwards, overhanging moves up a corner to a triangular block. Move right around to top. Sea edge of Penmon Quarries.

Martin Breialt. (12/7/93).

BENLLECH

These Crags can be accessed from the car park by the main Beach at Benllech in about 5, 10 and 15 minutes respectively (walk North towards Moelfre). The first part of the Leaning Wall area can be seen from the Beach and can be accessed along the shore line at most states of tide except HW Springs. Anglers Zawn lies directly below a campsite and can be accessed either along the coast from the Leaning Wall area or from the coastal path above. Use the coastal path to access Hidden Wall after about 15 minutes walking wooden steps lead down to a pebble beach and the bottom of the crag. Anglers Zawn and Hidden Wall can be accessed 2-3 hours or so before and after Low Water giving a good few hours of climbing. At High Water Deep Water Soloing could be a possibility - Check it out at Low Water First!!!

Also on the south-east side of the beach past the sewage treatment works heading towards St David's caravan site is a small crag close to Craig Dwlban consisting of 2 walls. Follow the coastal path south or walk along the beach. Currently these are trad routes, but will be bolted hopefully in the future.

Leaning Wall Area:
Costa Del Benllech E3 6a (F6c?)
Takes the line of resin bolts on the left hand side of the wall to a lower off.
FA. Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones. Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)
Trigonometry F6c+
Start by climbing the 'Trigonometrical' feature then continue steeply on small holds up the line of bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett, Chris Davies Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Crackpot Crack E3 5c (F6b+?)
The crack right of Trigonometry to the same lower off. Resin bolts protect. FA Chris Davies, Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones. Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)

The Tide is Turning F6b
New route just left of the large corner crack (right of the previous routes) follows a line of 5 bolts up and just left of a shallow V groove to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 20/12/07

Ian's Project F7? Will eventually climb a line up the middle of the face right of the big corner crack (right of the tide is turning). 2 bolt lower off in place + top bolt + some holes drilled. Please respect this project. Thanks!After a thumbs up from Ian via Panton that its open, this is now:
Gone Fishing F7bish Maybe 7a+?? Steep start to ledge then up groove/ crack to small roof, before launching up the headwall to finish on a thank god jug just over the final little roof. Lower off. Steep, varied climbing, worth a star. (stays dry in light rain) 6 bolts protect- 1 resin, 5 stainless 12mm's.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe 31/07/08
N.B Parkin is worried about the weld rusting on the resins so has recommended using the 12mm stainless though bolts until problem sorted.
Fossil Zone F6a+
New route on the right hand side of this part of the upper tier. Climbs a clean section of the wall on small holds past numerous fossils and 5 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 20/12/07

Anglers Zawn: (Tidal)

Carlesberg Crack VS
Takes the deep crack line left of the cave. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991
Trampled Underfoot E2 5b
The obvious bow shaped crack just right of Carlesburg Crack finish direct.FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991
Candystore Rock E2 5c
Follow Trampled Underfoot until it is possible to traverse rightwards and finish up the head wall. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991
Mother Ship F6b New route, climbs the right hand side of the sea cave up the rounded arete to the steep crack above 4 bolts protect, belay on 2 good threads. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 30/08/08
The Song Remains the Same F6b
The steep wall past 3 bolts just right of the blow hole by the horizontal break to a lower off / belay on the ledge above. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991(New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Ramble On E2 5b
The thin crackline with a small roof at the bottom to the right of the previous route. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991
Dazed and Confused F6b
Right again after a blocky start a line of 3 bolts leads the way up the wall to a lower off / belay on the ledge above. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
The Whispers E1 5b
The thin crackline in the centre of the wall passing through the obvious inverted triangle at 1/2 height. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991
Registration Blues E2 5b
The thin crack right of the Whispers. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991
Reflections E3 5c
The thin crackline right again with a small overlap on its right. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991
Pencil Crack VS 5a New Route, climbs the thin well protected crack to the right of Reflections. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 30/08/08
Paper Moves HVS 5a
The easy corner direct to the shallow groove in the arete (Bolt). FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolt December 2007)
Carousel Ambra F5+
Climbs the initially blocky arete via 3 bolts to a thinner finish which gains the lower off / belay. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Guitar Solo F6a
The thin crack line to a blocky finish just left of Vi et Armis 3 bolts protect. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) Summer 1991
Vi Et Armis F6b+
A barnacly boulder problem start gains the first horizontal break... small holds and 3 bolts lead the way to the top and a shared lower off / belay. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Wind of Change F6b
Another barnacly boulder problem start gains the first horizontal break... small holds and 3 bolts lead the way to larger holds and the top (to the same shared lower off / belay). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts December 2007)
Drum Solo F5+
The thin crack line to a blocky finish right of Wind of Change finishing just left of the hanging arete...3 bolts protect. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones (solo) Summer 1991

Anglers Zawn Upper Tier -

The upper tier can be accessed at all states of tide by scrambling down the left hand end of Anglers Zawn (as you look out to sea)
Note: This approach is well slippery when wet. The ledges are covered in slime. Not a big drop - but not a nice landing either! Consider an abseil from the top of Anglers Zawn (tide permitting) if it's wet. Another alternative is to walk along the cliff top towards Moelfre, drop down to the next inlet and walk back along the boulder beach (Preferably on an ebbing tide)
I have drilled a hole for a resin bolt directly above this slippery access point so that a short rope can be left in place to make the access easier / safer. Will place bolt / rope sometime soon. Knotted rope now in place which makes the approach + exit safer and easier.

The Grey Bay (<50m further along from Anglers Zawn)

Groundless Fears F6a* 18m New Route. Clip the first bolt on Bubble Wall then continue the traverse leftwards to another bolt (Deep Heat). Continue traversing to a 3rd bolt and follow the line of bolts upwards to the prominent pillar above (lower off) FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both lead) 05/03/09

Deep Heat F6a* 16m New Route. Clip the first bolt on Bubble Wall then continue the traverse leftwards to another bolt. Follow the line of bolts and the crack line upwards to steeper ground (crux) and the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both lead) 05/03/09

Bubble Wall F5+ *16m. New Route. Climbs the obvious line of vertical cracks just left of Heulwen, 5 bolts protect and lead the way to a lower off. A great warm up route with some steep climbing on big holds and pockets. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones (Both lead ) 23/Nov/2008.

Heulwen HVS 5a*16m. New Route.Climbs the obvious trad line that defines the left side of the grey bay on the Upper Tier of Anglers Zawn. 50m left of The White Wall. Initially climbs the Groove before battling up the continuation crack. Well protected with a steep and strenuous finish (Bolt / chain Lower Off) Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (both Led) 28/Sep/2008

A Quiet American F6b **16m. Climbs the obvious bolted thin line of weakness right of Heulwen. A balancy crux section on pockets leads to a wonderful finishing jug. Shared lower off with a pocket full of pockets. Phil Targett and Ian LLoyd Jones (Both lead ) 28/Sep/2008.

A Pocket Full of Pockets F6a+** 16m New route. Climbs the steep groove that defines the right hand side of the grey bay, right of A Quiet American. 6 bolts lead the way to the lower off. Steep climbing with a good selection of pockets. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (both Led) 8/Nov/2008

Thumb War F6b+*16m New Route. Start as for A Pocketful of Pockets, after the 2nd bolt head right below the overhang to gain the 3rd bolt and the start of the groove. Tricky moves up the groove and across to gain the Right hand side of the arête, continue upwards with some interesting moves and small pockets to the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 26/02/09

Trench Town Rock F6b*18m New Route. Start a few metres right of the previous route, climb steeply up to the left edge of a prominent ledge, more steep climbing will gain a clean slab, cross this with some thinner moves before moving up to clip the final bolt and on to the lower off (6 bolts protect) FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 23/Nov/2008

Dawg Gawn F6b* 16m New Route. Start a few metres right of Trench Town Rock below a crack which leads to, and through the obvious steep bulge follow the line of bolts to a shared lower off with Trench Town Rock. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 26/02/09

Dig Dig Dog F6b+** 15m New Route. Start a few metres right of Dawg Gawn below a prominent steep crack, follow this to a bulge which is surmounted with interest, 6 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (both Lead) 20/04/09

White Wall - (<100m further along from Anglers Zawn)

Sportingly Pocketed F6b+** New route, climbs the left hand of the 3 crack lines on the left end clean white wall, as soon as the crack ends move right to gain a pocket move up via two undercut pockets to gain the scoop, an excellent sequence of moves using pockets, sidepulls and crimps will eventually gain the lower off, 6 bolts protect FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led)23/09/08
6 more project lines in this area have been cleaned, shunted etc Please respect these projects they will be completed over the next few months.

Sporting Crack F6a+** New route, climbs the middle of the 3 crack lines on the clean white wall, steep and strenuous climbing up the impressive crack line to a scoop, surmount the bulge on thin holds 6 bolts protect and lead the way to a double bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 21/09/08

Cracking Sport F6a+ **New route, climbs the right hand of the 3 crack lines on the clean white wall, steep and strenuous climbing 5 bolts protect and lead the way past some interesting formations / holds and pockets to a double bolt lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (both Led)19/09/08

Groovy Wall ( 10m further along than White Wall)

A Lot Less Longer F6c 16m New Route. Climbs the line of 5 bolts below the obvious groove 10m further along than Cracking Sport. Start by zig zaging up a crimpy wall to the 3 rd bolt finish more easily up the groove with a potentially contortionate move to gain the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Christian Roots 24/6/09

Boom Boom Pow F6c **16m New Route. Climbs the light blue groove and arête just right of ‘A lot less longer’. 6 Bolts lead the way to a lower off. Once established on the upper arête steep and reachy climbing gains a ‘perfect hold’ from this a number of 2 finger pockets can be used gain the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 24/6/09
Liberty Equality Fraternity F6b+ * 12m. Climb the groove to a step right onto the arête. A tricky move gains a good hold on the bulge from which a fierce pull gains a ledge and the lower off above. FA Phil Targett & Ian Lloyd-Jones (both led) 20/Jul/2009
No Shooting! F6a 15m New Route. Climbs the line of 5 bolts up the obvious blunt / blocky arête right of Boom Boom Pow. The climbing gets more technical on the compact rock of the upper wall. Low in the grade. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 28/6/09 Send Away the Tigers F6b+ 15m New Route. Climbs the line of 6 bolts up the obvious steep groove to the right of No Shooting! The groove is steep but relatively straightforward, the upper section is more technical with some great moves on good rock. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 28/6/09 Brita HVS 5a * 15m The easiest route on the Upper Tier. Climbs the obvious groove and cracks right of Send Away the Tigers (the next groove along) Climb the groove with good protection, thinner cruxy moves gain the lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 20/Jul/2009

Hidden Wall:

The Seventh Wave E2 5c
The obvious crack over a small roof on the left hand side of the crag. Wires and friends protect.
FA Phil Targett Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)
Down to the waterline F6b+
The wall to the right passing 3 bolts to a bolt belay/lower off.
FA Phil Targett Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)
Six Blade Knife F6b+
The wall right again passing a further three bolts to a shared bolt belay/lower off
FA Phil Targett Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 91 (resin bolts feb 08)

Boys From the Black Stuff F6c
The line of 4 bolts up the steep wall on small holds to a shared bolt belay / lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts January 2008)
Puppy Power F6c
The wall 2 metres rightof Boys from the Black Stuff passing right of the overlap 4 bolts lead the way to a shared bolt belay / lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts January 2008)
Waking the Witch F6c
The wall just right of centre follow the line of 3 bolts to a shared 4th bolt with Puppy Power just above the ledge to a large thread belay or left to a shared bolt belay / lower off. FA Phil Targett, Ian Lloyd-Jones Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts January 2008)
Hit me like a Hammer F6b
Start just left of the obvious corner, climbs through the overlaps past 3 bolts to a double bolt lower off above the ledge. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett Summer 1991 (New Resin Bolts January 2008)

Note: All of the above routes were bolted back in 1991, these Bolts had corroded badly....they have now been replaced with Marine Grade Stainless Resin Bolts.
- Anglers Zawn Finished!
- Leaning Wall Finished!
- Hidden Wall Finished!

Craig Dwlban - Main Wall (see topo section)

Escape Route (*) 5+ 10m.
A good route which follows the big crack on the far left of the main wall. Pleasant steep climbing on positive holds and jugs throughout.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers 25/07/08

Contraflow (*) 6b 10m.
A test of wing span. Start at the base of the wall next to the block and make side pull lunges to gain the easier climbing above.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers 25/07/08

Christmas Cracker (*) 6b+
The obvious crack up the left hand side of the wall. FA (E2 5c) Tristan Peers, David Peers 26/12/2007

Hard Shoulder (*) 6a+
A direct line to share the lower-off of Central Reservation.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 16/03/08

Central Reservation - 6b
Straight up the main wall trending leftwards at the overhang
FA (E3 5b) Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007 (1 peg)

Central Reservation - Diversion Finish - 6b
Finish rightwards to Poison Ivy Lower-off (FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 16/03/08)

Poison Ivy - 6a
Follow the crack line near the right arete to finish over a bulge.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 15/05/08

Craig Dwlban - Left Wall

Dwlban Arete - HVS 4c
The arete on the left hand side of the wall. FA Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007

Greaseball - E1 5b
Straight up the wall 2 metres to the right of the arete to a small overlap. Caution, some loose rock at the top. FA Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007

Note: Please use only Marine Grade Resin Bolts for any new routes in this area.

Thanks to Simon @ 'Ground Up' for contributing towards re-equipping this area. Ian & Phil

Fedw Fawr NEW CRAG
A newly bolted venue offering short (10 metres) routes on good quality limestone. The area developed can be accessed from the National Trust Car Park @ Fedw Fawr, do not walk towards the other crag which is refered to as Fedw Fawr (this is in fact White Beach) however walk down the steps and follow the coast heading towards the Red Wharf Bay direction (Left as you look out to Sea), The crag can be accessed between 3 hours before Low Water and up to 3 hours after (6hr total) Take care on a rising tide! The walk in should take 10 minutes or so, keep going until you see a section of Black Limestone with a large undercut which rises from the sea / rock shelf. Routes are described from Left to Right. Abseil or Walk in by scrambling down. All routes top out / walk off or set up a lower off using slings etc on the large blocks on the ledge above. All routes bolted with MARINE GRADE RESIN BOLTS.

LOADS OF SCOPE FOR NEW ROUTES IN THIS AREA INCLUDING SOME VERY HARD LINES THROUGH THE UNDERCUT ROOF. ALSO HUGE POTENTIAL FOR SOME GREAT BOULDERING / TRAVERSING.

Les Vacances F6b Takes the wall left of Mr Hulo. Steep Moves up the wall just right of a seepage line, past 3 bolts. Belay / lower off large blocks on the ledge above. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/05/08

Mr Hulo F6a A reachy start gains positive pockets leading to the top, 3 bolts. Belay / lower off large blocks on the ledge above. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 6/05/08

Unclimbed F6c 3 bolts passing a sloping ramp line.

Sir Lobalot F6c A steep start gains the horizontal break, good holds and foot jams followed by large pocketed holds and cracks lead the way past 3 bolts. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/05/08

Statement of Roof F6c New route, takes a line of weakness through the large roof, 5 bolts lead the way…top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the large block on the ledge above. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 13/05/08

Scream to a Sigh F6c New route, start by pulling through the initial roof to the first bolt, continue past another bolt to gain the final and problematic roof (bolt) top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 6/05/08

Back in Black F5+ A steep start gains a shallow groove, move right out of this and climb the wall above past some large holds. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 14/03/08

For those about to Rock… F6a A steep start gains a shallow groove, move right out of this and climb the blunt rib / wall above. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 14/03/08

We Salute You! F6a+ The obvious line of weakness, a steep start leads to an easier groove above. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 14/03/08

The Missing Link F6b New route, (start below a ledge with a rusty chain wedged in a break) to the left of Rockferry 2 bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08

Rockferry F6a+ New route, balancy climbing up the middle of the wall, 3 bolts lead the way top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08

Rock Monster F6b New route to the right of Rockferry start below a line of 4 bolts, pass the first by strenuously pulling on pockets to gain the break (crux) easier climbing remains, top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08

Yellow Walls

drevil — Sun, 19 Jul 2009 15:09:19 CDT

Yellow Walls

Stood at the bottom of these cliffs is a very intimidating place to be. It appears to overhang in every angle. Fortunately it is just an optical illusion and some cracking extremes breach this steep and complex cliff in a reasonable fashion. It's southern orientation and concave topology means it can be a good venue on a cold and windy day, catching any sun going and sheltered even when it is blowing a hoolie in the cafe car-park. It is possible to approach by a long scramble and sea-level traverse but it is easier to abseil in near the line of The Savage to steep scrambly terrain. It may be advisable to leave the ab rope in-situ in case of failure. The routes are multi-pitch, often traversing and very, very steep so in case you end up dangling in space, you need to carry with you a means of ascending the rope e.g. ascenders, jumars, gri-gris, belay devices, slings, prusiks, shoe-laces, faith in god, brute strength or a combination of the above.

Photo topo

The Savage E2*
A fine introduction to the peculiar delights of Yellow Wall.
A good route for those undecided days: an escape up the ab rope is always possible.
Protection is adequate but it can be tiresome to place in the hard sections.
The overall situation warrants an increase in grade (as suggested in "North Wales Rock" selected guide).
1. 30m. 5a/b. From the end of the abseil, climb to the base of a corner capped by a diagonal roof. Climb this, then break out right under the overhang (with an increasing degree of difficulty / urgency) to pull up onto a slab. Move right to belay at the base of a groove (NB this single pitch combines the original first two...much more sensible).
2. 20m. 5b. Climb the groove for a couple of moves. Move left to a quartz crack (runners) carry on left for another 3 meters (very steep territory) to reach an obvious spike. Move up (feet on spike) to reach a resting position (thankfully). Traverse diagonally left to reach an an obvious break that runs back right to the top (dirty in places). It is also possible to take a direct finish up the slightly overhanging crack above the break.
(See topo above - taken from hyperlink and revamped for comparison)
The Holliwell brothers, 1969

Book of Ages E5
A line I had climbed previously for its first pitch many years ago, now with an independent second pitch. Well protected with excellent rock.
1. 6b. Start below the groove of The Savage and take the undercut arete between that route and Perygl. The arete leads to a junction with Perygl under a roof, Perygl goes out right. Book of Ages goes goes straight over the roof above. Interesting moves reach the slab and belay above.
2. 6a. Step left into the bottomless groove and climb it direct to the obvious crack above. Finish as for The Savage direct for the last few feet.
An excellent well protected route.
Twid Turner and Louise Turner
A name reflecting the time taken for the next guide book to the area.

Perygl E3 *

Another excellent Yellow Wall excursion without too much danger.

The Drunk E6 *

A good but unbalanced route, if it wasn't for a fierce few moves on Pitch 2, it would be about E3. Start beneath a short corner on the left side of the wall.
1. 10m. 4c. As for The Moon. Climb the short corner and belay on a ledge/cave (occasional seagulls).
2. 20m. 6b. Follow the slanting cracks rightwards for 2m then attempt to break left throught the 'line of weakness' in the roof. Yes, that was the crux. Pleasantly stroll on up the slab above and a belay shared with Perygl.
3 25m. 5b. As for Perygl Pitch 3.

S.Haston 1986

The Moon E3 ***
Thoroughly deserving its classic status. It has exposure, committment and uncertainty in abundance. Start beneath a short corner on the left side of the wall.
1. 10m. 4c.A 'harder than it looks' pitch. Climb into the cave (occasional seagulls) to take a belay.
2. 30m. 5c. The Pitch! Fabulous to lead, and tough to second...this is the essential Gogarth experience. Most people find enough reserves and determination to hang on. A great lead for the 'thinking climber'...thugs may come unstuck! Break out right from the belay and continue traversing rightwards and upwards, always finding the easiest passage. A final tricky traverse right enables the belay to be clocked; an exposed blocky ledge in the middle of the wall and shared with most other routes acting as a central hub.
3. 30m. 5b. An appropriate finale: great holds and biting exposure in a safe situation: savour this pitch. Best done in the teeth of a gathering storm. Intuitively follow the twin cracks in the rightwards rising rampline. Steeper and more awkward than it looks.

E.Drummond, A.Barley,1971

Me E6 ***

A meandering excursion through the yellow steepness culminating in one of the best E6 pitches around.

1.15m. 4c. The Moon pitch 1.

2.30m. 5c.Traverse right under The Moon along cramped ledges to join The Cow. Follow the (Judas) Cow to the Moon/Cow belay.

3.10m. 5b/c. Step down from the belay and reverse Creeping Lemma pitch 2 rightwards towards ledges atop the promontory. Belay on the traverse before the apex of the promontory and below an amazing golden groove left of Dogs of War.

4. 43m. 6a. A magnificent pitch which can also be gained from the promontory of The Sind/Creeping Lemma. Very pumpy funky climbing. The rock is softish in places but protection is adequate providing a large rack is carried. Starting from a belay 3 m below the peg on Creeping Leema, climb up to an overlap and rock around this onto a hanging slab/groove, which is then followed rightwards to below two peg runners. Steep and committing moves rightwards (crux) crossing a bottomless groove leads to a rest. Pull back left onto another slab/groove and finish direct past a precarious block to the top.

S.Haston, R.Kay and C.Dale, 6/86

Direct Start to pitch 4 (as described) byTwid and Louise Thomas

The Cow. E5 ***
Spectacular and well-protected. Mostly very reasonable for the grade apart from the flake-crack. Those with a traditional ‘thin hands’ jamming competency and finding dry conditions will romp up this too; it is more usual to thrash and dangle. Start as for The Moon, below a left to right diagonal overhanging flake-crack where it all gets steep.
1. 35m. 6a. Up trending rightwards to the overhanging crack. If you are lucky this will only be damp. Grapple with the crack (good training for Astroman…or vice versa?) into the easier continuation groove. Traverse right to an open corner and right again around the arête and go up to belay as for The Moon.
2. 30m. 5c. Launch straight over the overhang above the stance into a niche. Go over another roof into a groove leading to a slab and terra firma.
Dave Pearce and Paul Trower, (2 points aid) 26/6 and 10/7/1976.

The Owl and the Pussy Cat E6 **

Start as for The Cow.

1. 6b. Climb The Cow to a rest on a spike, just past its crux. Climb up and left (sloping mantle) to meet Me. Go up the vague groove to the roof and pull up right to big jug (wire #9). Follow the hanging prow to the golden slab of The Moon, belay

.2. 6a. Climb the groove direct which Perygl top pitch traverses into. Climb straight up and move right to base of groove (bold), RP's. Go up groove to top.

M.Turner, Ian McNeill. 1992.
.

Ludwig E6 ***

Another Yellow Wall classic that finishes up the bottomless overhanging groove above the traverse of The Moon.

1. 20m. 5a. Follow the highest traverse line to belay below and right of a cave/overhang in the wall above, just over halfway to the promontory of The Sind/Creeping Lemma. Cams useful on the belay.

2. 25m. 6a. Gain the cave steeply from the right to reach a peg. On 18/7/9 this peg was noted to be extremely shit by now and unlikely to hold a fall. Good effort placing it in EBs in 1978 though! Exit leftwards and continue to reach the Moon/Cow belay. This pitch is E5 6a and often wet.

3. 30m. 6b. Reverse the second pitch of The Moon leftwards until underneath the groove. Ferocious moves entering the groove form the crux. If successful, you will not find it difficult to see where to go next. Protection once established in the groove is good, although the rock is fragile in places.

M.Fowler and M.Morrison,1978 3 points aid. FFA A.Pollit and S.Andrews,1984

Beefhoven E6

A line based on the arête between the top grooves of The Cow and Ludwig. Strenuous climbing on an awesome position, though escapable at times.

1. 5c. Climb up a sandy wall, to the right of Ludwig, to a ledge. Go up to an undercut flaky crack then strenuously pull up and slightly left to meet The Cow. Follow this to the belay.

2. 6b. Follow Ludwig round onto the red hanging slab then step right to beneath the overhanging arête. Pull over the bulge to gain a sandy break which leads wildly up the arête to better holds and a rest in a fine position. Carry on up on crumbly holds to join Ludwig at the top

M.Turner, P. Robins. (AL) (2005)

The Yellow Shark E7 6b 35m **

Takes an obvious diagonal line to finish up the hooded square cut groove between the top sections of Me and Isis is Angry. Strenuous and bold. Start from the Moon/Cow hanging belay. Head out rightwards along the ramp, below the top pitch of The Moon, to join Me at the two pegs. Continue easily up this for 7 metres to a spike on the left. Trend out right to a ledge and continue to the base of the groove (cunning no hands head jam). Difficult moves, crux, with massive fall potential, lead into the groove. Follow this to the capping bulge, traverse right and move up to jugs. Finish easily.

G.Farquhar, M.Turner, A.Perkins.(26/9/93).

Isis is Angry E6 **

Two serious and slightly pointless pitches allow the purist to gain the promontory from the beach. From here the superb top pitch which is of comparable difficulty to Me lies between you and the Cafe. Alternatively the promontory can be gained by abseil and the main pitch climbed in it's own right which will make more sense to most!
1. 5c. This pitch famously "takes no prisoners". It starts from the boudler below the horrific territory above. Cross a wet slab and then climb a short flake onto a ledge containing some grass cauliflowers. Climb the open scoop above trending rightwards utilising a four to one mixture of shale and cement to reach some flakes on an arete. Move up to large quartz holds then traverse back left and move down to belay on blocks.

2. 5b. Move rightwards of the belay and up a short crack to gain the most obvious left to right traverse line. Follow this to the promontory and move up to it's apex.

3. 6b. Start 4 meters right of the Sind. Climb up to a niche, then pull round leftwards onto the Sind's golden slab. Climb this for a couple of meters before moving left to beneath a small roof, pull through this and follow a flake/crack to the large roof of Dog's of War. Place some bomber runners then commit to the groove system straight above and follow it without respite to the top.
S.Haston and R.Kay 7/86

Creeping Lemma E2 ***

Neither for the faint of heart, nor those with a 'sport' mentality, despite this being fine sport indeed!
1. 4c. Easy, but all the more frightening for the lack of decent gear. A leftwards traverse across the grey wall into a groove, and then up.
2. 5b.I know at least one E5 leader who couldn't do this, but it really *is* only 5b! Easy climbing across the ledges to the narrowing at the corner. Cunning, rather than crimping, will pay dividends here.
3. 5c. Now it gets hard! Continue with your leftwards progress, reversing the slab of The Moon, to make hard moves up and left through bulging rock to a groove and relief.

A.Sharp, S.Humphries, 1974

Dogs of War E4 **

I nearly killed my belayer as I led the second pitch; be careful out there! Take plenty of slings. This is a very spooky experience.
1. 5b. Traverse out right along the higher quartzy line of weakness, taking care with the ropes. Belay securely beneath a small roof. This protects you from inevitable and dangerous debris.
2. 5c. Climb up and left to the base of a groove; the commitment begins here. The way ahead is obvious, but there are many hazards en route. Proceed with as much caution and lightness of step as you can muster. Once past the big roof and into the final groove, the horror eases.

M.Howells, P.Trower, on-sight (1PA). FFA P.Boardman, J.Tasker

The Sind E3 **

This route takes a stunning diagonal line. Start from the steep ground below the crag gained by abseil.
1. 5a. Follow the obvious lower diagonal break, taking the easiest line to gain the apex of the large promontory.
2. 5b. The diagonal line continues up the obvious golden slab above the promontory. Gain the slab from the left and follow it with interest all the way to the top. Sustained sandiness with lots of runners in softish rock.
J.Brown

Paddington E3

? If you have done this route ever then please write a description.

Pterodactyl E3

? If you have done this route ever then please write a description.

The Big Softy E6 6a 45m

Start on the ridge below the last pitch of The Sind. Start as for Paddington and climb across a sandy wall to a sort of rest/ledge at the base of a groove. Climb up left (poor gear) and up in a parallel line to The Sind, aiming for an obvious nose of rock.

M.Turner, Andy 'barman'. (6/94).

93,000,000 Miles E4 60m *

An intricate climb which weaves its way up the wall, right of Pterodactyl. As runout as heaven is wide. Start 25 metres down the ramp from Pterodactyl at a block belay.

1 45m. 5c. Ascend up and right, following cracks, with gear, onto the edge of the wall. Go straight up past a small recess and through a bulge to a no-hands rest (hidden peg on a small ledge just above). Step back down and traverse left then go straight up until level with the Paddington/ Pterodactyl belay. (Possible to traverse left and place bad runners here - cam #4 useful). Now trend off up and right for a few miles to a small spike, crux. Go up and right again to a ledge and peg belay.

2 15m. 5c. From the stance, move up and right to a pair of Siamese pegs. Crank straight up the steep wall to finish in a groove. A bit spooky.

Paul Pritchard, Ian Wilson, Debbie Quinn. (15/7/96).

Sign of the Sun Dog E5 60m *

A wandering and varied route up the very right arête of the Yellow Wall, Scary, technical and strenuous.

1 40m. 6b. Follow 93,000,000 Miles to the first peg. Step up and go right onto the flying arête, second peg and small wires. Make weird moves up and run it out in space to a ledge and peg belay, on 93,000,000 Miles.

2 20m. 6b. Move up and clip the pegs on 93,000,000 Miles and come back down. Make a hard traverse right under a roof and gain a huge flake (like a mirror image of Schittlegruber). Go up the flake to a horror niche, then right again to finish on the arête with much exposure.

Paul Pritchard, Leigh McGinley (AL), Tom Leppert. (17th & 18th of July, 1996 - one bivy in Llanberis).

Not Yellow Wall Escape Route HVS 80m.

1 33m. 4b. From the boulder beach, climb the arête and a small bulge to a bubble ledge. Move right and belay on a spike.

2 20m. 4a. Climb the groove behind the spike and move back left to the arête. Go up the grassy groove to belay.

3 27m. 4c. Climb the wall to a large spike. Step off this onto another wall and follow a rising rightwards traverse on Red Wall type rock to the top.

Dave Ferguson, Bob Wightman. (12/7/97).

Holyhead Mountain

normal12b — Tue, 03 Feb 2009 04:08:27 CST

A worthwhile venue if the mountains are shrouded in their normal cloud suit. The route hereabouts are considerably less committing than anything on any of the sea cliffs. The rock is the same, although there is a much more obvious glassy feel to the quartzite, though the ramps are rather more flaky. A great way to prepare yourself for Castell Helen.

Holyhead MountainRamp C

Breakaway E2 5c 37m.

J.Dalton, M.Petty. (28/5/93).

P.C.H HVS 5a 15m.

Climbs the diagonal crack in the wall over looking Primrose Hill Gutter. Climb up the slab, step right and follow a crack, jamming over an overlap at 10m. Easier start further up left.

J.Dalton, M.Petty. (28/5/93).

Ramp D

Stairs Direct 5a?
Climb the short corner as for pitch 1 of Stairs but step left and climb through the 1st roof with a crack in its middle,mantleshelf, then continue up rightwards to the next roof, move right to a short wall and finish up this.
M.Handford,Shan Rees Roberts 03/02/07

Ramp F

Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast E1 4c 10m.

The slab right of Mental Block, following a quartz streak. One runner, very low down.

I.O.Roberts, D.Noden, E.Parry. (1999).

Minime E2 5b

The right hand arête of the wall of Pisa, climbed on its left hand side. Fiddley cams and a thin sling protect

I.O.Roberts, D.Noden. (1999).

YELLOW WALL

The Raver
Bloody Fingers
Thread
Wind
Uhuru
Jones' Crack

Bran Flake E2 5b 30m **
Have three Weetabix for breaky before you attempt this one.
Similar to but harder than Ferdinand on the Wenallt.
Split the climb in two (park just after the steep bit).
Better communication and less stretch when your second sits on the rope!

Shreddies E2 40m.

Start at a thin crack between Bran Flake and Croissant.
1 17m. 5c. Climb to the overlap and go leftwards to base of large flake. Go round this on the right to belay up in a cave.
2 23m. Climb easily up slabs to finish.

Nick Sharp, J.Dalton. (12/5/94).

Croissant
Mirrored in the Cleft

Big Jim E3/4 6b 30m
The 'steeper than it looks' crack system left of King Bee Crack turns mean near the top.
From just left of King Bee climb to a left-sloping ramp. Follow this to its top then tackle a technical and strenous flake crack to gain a horizontal break (siesta here?). Exit leftwards up an easy slab.
K Robertson, A Lewandowski (12/7/1981).

A Seagull Ate My Crisps E4/5 6b 20m.

M.Turner, Mel Griffiths. (6/98).

King Bee Crack *** HVS 5a

Snakebite Wall * 37m E4 6a 37m.

A fine eliminate giving bold, thin wall climbing linking KBC and Katana.
From just right of KBC climb a short left slanting crack for 3 metres. A long stretch right via a flat handhold gives access to a series of pockets and edges leading to a peg. Continue slightly rightwards to join Katana for the final pump!
K. Neal, M. Gresham. (10/10/1986)

Trouser Snake E4/5 6a

A variation to Snakebite Wall. From hollow flakes down and left of Katana, crimp up the wall leftwards to join Snakebite Wall after its rightwards traverse. Follow this to just before it joins King Bee Crack, arrange gear. Traverse up and right to a poor tied off peg then up to a good jug/spike, just left of Penny. Ignore thoughts of escape into Penny, instead head up and left to finish via a left facing groove and easy-peesy slab.

Tim Neill, Toby Keep. (22/6/03).

Katana ** E4 6a

Sai Dancing * E3 6b??
Start just right of Katana. Climb the wall directly to a ledge and junction with Penny. Follow Penny for a few moves up the crack (peg) until it is possible to pull out right onto the headwall using undercuts and small edges. Full on!! Your heading for the crack on the R which has a hidden peg at its top. From the 2nd peg, pull over on to a slab and trend back L to an interesting groove (perplexing). Climb the groove and bulge above to belay well back.

Trherh Arête E6 6a

Obvious arête (and slab above), right of Sai Dancing.

Mel Griffiths, M.Turner. (6/98).

Penny ** E3 5c
The higher you go - The harder it gets!

Twilight Zone

The Electric Spanking of War Babies

The Electric Lady Charlotte E3 5c 27m.

The diagonal line running leftwards out of Patience, crossing The Electric Spanking… near the top.A bit loose in places.

Rich Parry, Mike Gresham. (8/96).

Patience

Don't join the Army Frank! E3 6a

Simon Sartram, Barric Barrett. (31/7/90).

Drying Out

QUARTZ WALL

View or edit Quartz Wall topo

The Arrow E3 5c 25m.

This takes a slab with an overhanging section at half height. Sustained for approximately 5 metres.

G.Mitchell, J.Loveridge. (1999).

Bad Influence E3 5c 25m

C.Greatwich, C.Stephenson, L.A.Dutton. (26/7/91).(The thin crack was climbed as a direct finish to Breaking the Barrier (E2 5c, 1989) by John Donnely).

Point Taken E2 5c

J.Hope, K.Niel. (7/91).

Relief E2 5c 26m.
An enjoyable and worthwhile eliminate which follows the arete just right of Echoes.
Climb the crack of Bruvvers for three metres then balance left on reasonable footholds to gain the arete. Follow its slabby left hand side till tricky moves rightwards gain a flake and the top.

Dreaming of Home - worth E1.

Time to Reflect worth E2 5c?

Scissorhands E1 5b

Up the gully from Tempest is a blunt undercut arête, with a crack that stops at 6m.

N.Ashton. (29/8/91).

View or edit Holyhead Mountain topos

Welcome to Gogarth Wiki

drevil — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 14:50:36 CST

This wiki guide is designed to provide up to date information on new routes, rockfall, access and other changes since the publication of the guides.

For Gogarth Bay and the rest of Yns Mon, please refer to the recently published GROUND UP Gogarth North guidebook. For South Stack and The Range, the GROUND UP Gogarth South guidebook is due for publication this year (2009).

As a community project anyone can contribute, so feel free. This site also aims to document descriptions that were inaccurate or have changed since the last guide. This wiki will be a great help in updating future guides so last time you had an epic due to a poor description, simply add your correction to this site and it will be noted for the next guide.

If you see an inaccuracy or can improve a description then please register and change the details yourself.

SEASONAL NESTING RESTRICTIONS

MANY OF THE CLIFFS AT GOGARTH ARE SUBJECT TO SEASONAL NESTING RESTRICTION, AND MANY ARE NOT. FOR AN UP TO DATE LIST OF CRAGS AND ROUTES THAT ARE RESTRICTED VISIT THE BMC REGIONAL ACCESS DATABASE. We aim to eventually get all the routes that are restricted indicated with an R in the title of each route, plus the dates at the start of each crag section that is affected. In the main the ban runs from the 1st February to 31st July.

The Gogarth Environment

Gogarth Bay

Tsunami Zawn

Holyhead Mountain

North Coast

Other Anglesey Crags

South Stack Area

Hidden Zawn/Loathesome Cleft

Skull Zawn
Trinity House Walls

Rhoscolyn

Rhoscolyn South - Coastguard Lookout cliffs

Llawder,Fallen Block Zawn, Sea CaveZawn

Painted Walls, Crag X and White Arches

Sea Level Traverses

Deep Water Solo

Photo topos

Map of the Holy Island

Tide Predictions

If you want to visit the area then you will need to know what the tides are doing for many routes. Try this link to easytide.com or this to the Climbers Club tide table.

Weather

BBC weather forecast: Holyhead 24 hour forecast. Metcheck forecast for Main Cliff. For swell size and wind direction: Irish Sea wave buoy. This traffic webcamin Holyhead will give you an idea of the weather now. A couple of other weather sources are Wind Guru, Anglesey specfic weather and Rhosneigr webcam looking across the bay giving a coastal perspective to the weather.

There is also the start of a controversial graded list, as well as the option to post photos.

There is also now a contributors page for anyone who helps create this site.

There are many resources that show how good Gogarth really is go to the Links Page to see what other have to offer.

Gogarth Media for magazine articles etc

Now try these wiki's www.slate.wetpaint.com and www.northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com and www.tremadoc.wetpaint.com

www.welshwinterclimbs.wetpaint.com

Tsunami Zawn

drevil — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 13:41:12 CST

A Groove

Another Groove

Tsumami E5
A terrifying traverse across the wall, though the belays are good.

1 5a. Gain height on the left of the face. Pitches 1 and 2, as described in the old guide.
3 5b. Worth E3. Traverse across the wall to belay in a wide crack. Loose and serious.
4 5b. Worth E5! Scary moves up the groove then out right. Very loose and very serious.

FFA Will Perrin, Peter Robins (AL). (6/2001).

Charlie Don't Surf

Shell Shock

Reptile

The Amphibian

Too Cold for Comfort

Sue P.

Cracked Slab

Chimney Climb

Overlapped Groove

Crackers

Sirplum

Tidal Wave

Cracked Up

The Crack

The Groove

The Chimney

To the right (looking in) of Tsunami Zawn (maybe) is another bay. Right again is a Tibia shaped arête, left of a roofed square groove. Right again is slabby easy ground, running to sea level.

God's Bone XS 6b 10m.

This arête has no relevant gear, but can be climbed on its left side. At high tide it is a safe solo.C.Waddy. (1996).

Flytrap Area

drevil — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 13:38:29 CST

SEASONAL RESTRICTIONS

Tucked away like a quiet back water, this area has seasonal restriction due to nesting birds. It is however short than the rest of the cliff, but despite this some of the climbs in the area pack quite a punch, from the old school Joe Brown Classic Flytrap to the George Smith's Modern equivalent the Ultraviolet Exterminator.

Veiw and edit Flytrap area topos:
Flytrap Right/ Promontory
Flytrap Right

Bullitt
Prom

The Dope

Hash

Mordor 68m Hvs (1968)

Mordor Newydd

Roof Rack E7 6c 17m.

G.Smith, attempts over several years I'm afraid. (1995).

Seal Song E5 50m (1988)

Six White Boomers VS 4c 33m.

Dave Ferguson, James McQueen. (7/5/94)

Colditz 30m VS 4c (1982)

Mistaken identity 35m HVS (1973)

Flytrap 82m E2 ***
A classic cave adventure, traversing in to, up, and out of the Flytrap zawn. Pitch 3 is usually damp in places. Abseil to sea-level at the foot of a pinnacle at low to mid-tide (as for Mordor).

1. 12m 4a. Climb up left on big holes to a ledge and belay (can be reached by abseil at high tide)
2. 25m 5a. From the left hand end of the ledge descend for five metres in to the zawn and make a descending traverse in to the back of the cave to the foot of a black groove.
3. 25m 5b/c. Climb up the groove, often damp, to a traverse line heading out righwards to the head of the cave. Follow the traverse in an increasingly exposed and impressive position, and make wild moves to good holds on the front of the chockstone at the top of the cave (crux). Belay on top of the chockstone.
4. 20m 4b. Climb the righthand wall for 6 metres then traverse right for 6 metres, finishing up a distinct crack.

J.Brown, P. Jewell, D.Cuthbertson 1 pt. aid (16/4/78)

Arachnid 30m E4 5c

The Porcelain Arena E6 50m.

An exceedingly traditional route, starting left of the cave and finishing at a giant chockstone, via the back of the cave. Start round ton the right of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.
1 6b. Ascend the initial chimney of The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes, then traverse right to the arête. Gain a slanting crack up and right with difficulty. This widens to a strenuous and awkward vice/pod which in turn leads to the roof of the cave. Belay.
2 5c. Either throw yourself into the sea, or arrange protection and traverse the wall to a point where it is possible to bridge the width of the zawn (or continue along the wall) to the top of the flytrap chockstone. An atmospheric pitch.
3 20m. 4b. As for Flytrap, pitch 3.

G.Smith, Simon Melia. (2003).

The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes E6 6b

Start at the right hand end of the tidal ledge beneath Arachnid. Climb up a chimney and break rightwards into the darkness, spinning round perhaps at some point (?) to find yourself at the Flytrap belay. Good gear and solid, but sharp black rock. All very weird and disorientating. Seconded accidentally by T Briggs (with a rest), when the belayer realised that a long lay off (years?) was probably not the best preparation for removing welded in wires whilst undercutting across a roof.
F.A: G.Smith

The Nemotode Strikes out E6 6b
From a belay on top of the Flytrap Chockstone, perform one (or more) laps of the chockstone. It is traditional to travel in, down, out and up.
FA: G.Smith.

The Ultraviolet Exterminator E7

F.A: G.Smith

Holyhead Revisited 35m E4 6a

20000 Leagues Under the Sea 20m E4 6a **

Climb the groove in the prominent hanging rib above deep water. Solid rock, excellent protection but sustained and pumpy. Why not just solo it?

Dai Lemming! E3/4 5c/6a 20m

C.Waddy (solo). (2002?).Done before by Dai Lampard and Twid (mid 1990's).

The Hitcher - worth E1 5a/b.

Jug Patrol E1

M.Crook, A.Newton. (17/4/94).

Skippy E1 45m.

Between Jug Patrol and Oijee Wall is a left slanting chimney. Start 3 metres left of this.125m. 5b. Climb the wall left of the chimney up to a groove. Climb this to an overlap and make steep moves over it to belay on the ledge system of Route 66.2 20m. 4c. Take the slab above on big flakes to a grassy finish. Belay on blocks.

Tony Morley, Dave Ferguson. (8/4/97).

Oijee Wall 45m E1 5b (1988)

The Walls of Jericho

Route 66

Point Blank

Wen Zawn

drevil — Wed, 21 Jan 2009 07:56:19 CST

One of the jewels in Gogarth's very ornate crown. Home to several of the benchmark routes. From the undeniable classic and ridiculously popular Dream of White Horses to the more intimidating and less frequented T-Rex. That is just half the story. Since the last guide a whole host of routes have cropped up in the most unlikely of places. If you look around the zawn and think where would I really not want to climb, then you can guarantee that someone has edged their way up it. From VS to E7 this zawn has something for everyone.

Video link to The Boston Struggler E5 6b

There is a photo topo of some of the major line on this crag on the photo topos page.

View and edit Wen Slab topo

Approach

Drive straight off the A55 super highway and continue straight on through holyhead keeping the ferry port on you right, just before the road runs out turn left and follow the road signposted south stack?, that runs along the side of the harbour, as you approach the end of the road a small road branches off left with a sign for 'Breakwater country park?'. Follow this to a car park at the end.

From the car park take the main track up the hill that is steep to start with, and exhausting in the summer heat. It does flatten after 400m, where a pleasant walk that often has some rare orchids and the lesser spotted rock rose which are indemic to the maritime heathland of holyhead mountain. Eventually a fork in the track is reached, the right hand fork follows the telegraph poles to north stack, the left fork leads up to a small 'Col'. Head over the saddle and down the descent to a great flat spot on the promontory, and the classic view of Wen Slab.

At low tide and with calm seas the routes around wen slab are access by abseiling off large blocks at the end of the promontory, to a boulder hop across the zawn to the base of your desired route. watch out for waves from the fast ferry.

Alternatively the first routes can be accessed in strong seas or during high tide by walking back up the descent path and walking around the top of wen slab on a small and exposed track. A short scramble can be made down a gully to an abseil point on blocks on the right. Abseil down this to a ledge some 20 metres above the sea, where it is easy to traverse to your choosen route.

A further alternative can be utilised for Dream of White Horse, by carrying on scramble with care and excitment down to a promanent notch, where you can descend the groove and traverse onto the slab.

Hydrophobia 45m HVS 5a (1981)

Dde 105m HVS 5a * (1966)

A Dream of White Horses 150m HVS 5a *** (1968)

Variation
2a. E1 5a

Descend from the second belay (first belay for the shorter variation) for 5 metres whilst completely ignoring the obvious line of holds which constitute the actual route! When halfway down to the Wen ledge, notice a tenuous line of white flakes leading leftwards. Climb on frail rock with laughable protection until you reach the corner. Go up this to meet the third pitch of 'Dream', one third of the way along, passing a dodgy hanging flake. Belay.

?(2/9/95).

A Dream of White Chimneys HVS 5a *** (1967/1968)

This is one of the most stunning combination of pitches that one can climb at HVS on Wen Slab. Of course the majority will follow the more historic footpath that is Dream..., but don't be fooled as this is the best link. The easiest way to start this route is to abseil from the block to the ledge 20 metres above the sea, and is describe as such.

1. 50m 5a. From the left hand end of the ledge take an obvious traverse line out to the arete, that overlooks 'the concrete chimney'. Then climb up the slab to a thin crack, just above this the rock turns bubbly, and large holds abound, as the exposure kicks in. Continue up and left to reach the rubble filled chimney, and the belay as for the last pitch of dream, just below overhangs on the left.

2. 25. 5b. From the belay climb up the left arete of the concrete chimney, till level with a traverse line below an overhang, make a delicate traverse left, to where it is possible to descend onto a fin of rock, and continue traversing left, on easy ground. Eventually a traverse of a slab leads to the finishing groove, where an alloy peg threaded with a bit of string, lead to the belay on blocks out left.

Echo Beach 80m E2 (1980)

If 62m HVS (1969)

Zeus 85m E2**(1970)

Wen 100m HVS *** (1966)

High Pressure E4 * (1976)

Slap the slab and ride the ripples

The Quartz Icicle E2 *** (1968)

Variation
The original Finish E2

The Concrete Chimney HVS 5a *** (1967)

Rubble E7 83m.

The softest route in the world. The concrete chimney that Concrete Chimney climbs 3m of. The most obvious line at Gogarth.

1 33m. 6a. Super step out of the cave at the bottom on the finest of Welsh pebble dashing. Move left out of the concrete to belay at the end of T-Rex, pitch 1. Appalling protection.

2 27m. 6a. Follow T-Rex to the huge ceiling and go through the right end of this past the hanging flange of death (crucial RP 1) to join Concrete Chimney and belay.

3 23m. 5a. Done before - E1 chimney in sensational position.

Paul Pritchard, Leigh McGinley (AL). (on-sight). (10/91).

Games Climbers Play, Original Start 30m E6 6b **

The amazing bubbly line right of the corner of T-Rex. Unfortunately the initial moves are brick hard with difficult to place protection, a bad landing and are out of keeping with the rest of the pitch which is truly amazing. Gains the belay at the end of pitch 1 of T-Rex.

D.Pearce, E.Drummond 26/27 9/70 (magnificent and unhinged skyhook frenzy) FFA Ron Fawcett and G.Kent, 1979

Hardback Thesaurus 30m E8 ** (1988)

"Climbing calls are revised at Gogarth 'breaking' be a lot more common than taking in" From Ed Douglas's glorious commentary to the film Gogarth.
Climb the crack in the wall right of T-Rex to a crucial cam slot, move rightwards onto the wall, pulling on little flakes which look "almost stuck onto the rock". Then trend back leftwards above a vague bulge to reach the overlap. Either arrange skyhooks and small pieces of thread, or stuff the overlap full of small cams. Arrange skyhooks above the roof. Surmount the roof, utilising a heel to bring you closer to the rock, then run it out up the twin right-slanting shallow cracks, until a final hard move left reaches the sanctuary of the T-Rex traverse line. Terrifying 60 foot skyhook popping fall optional.
F.A: J.Dawes, (Ground-up) 1988.
2nd Ascent : Twid, also on-sight (Ground-up?)

T-Rex 115m E3 *** (1969)

A real man eater of a crack guards the upper section of the route, where the climbing is easier but still involved, inspiring and overwhelmingly good. Start by hoping across boulders at low tide to reach to bottom of an obviously strenuous slot, that leads about 15m up the cliff, about 15 metres left of the true concrete chimney.

1 40m 5c. Start up the chimney, until it turns into off-width, where it requires some pumpy laybacking to exit the feature into the corner/groove above. Climb this until a selection of pegs, where it is possible to traverse right along obvious large pockets to a belay on what remains of a cluster of pegs, and some wires.

2 35m 5b. Climb the wall above and follow some cracks to just below the roof to arrange some gear, before descending slightly to sneaky traverse left along a quartz seam. A bold step over a bottomless groove/corner continue up easier ground to belay in a corner just below the traverse on the last pitch of dream.

3 40m 4c. Climb up to and then traverse as for the last pitch of dream.

Variations:

Metal Guru 40m E4 (1989),

Original Finish E3 5b

Golden Bough Finish 25m E4

Games Climbers Play, Direct Start 30m E4 (1 pt. Aid) ** (1970/1979)

Ask Paul Pritchard about this one

Games Climbers Play 72m

(It's a) Broad Church E6/7

1 6a. Start at a groove left of the start of Games Climbers Play. Go up the groove to a bulge. Swing left and go up to a peg belay.

2 6b. Hard work allows progress up the groove, past a peg and a warthog, to a rest. Reluctantly carry on and swing right to belay on Games Climbers Play. There was a warthog on first ascent to protect traverse right but it snapped in hands of second on first ascent.

3 5c. Climb up, over a bulge, to a belay on the slab on A Dream of White Horses.

4 6a. Go up and left and pull through a roof (just left of The Golden Bough Finish) to gain the top. (Don't bother - finsh up Dream instead for a well earned panad) Pegs placed off aid ground up so possible to be replaced on lead if keen.

Nick Dixon, Noel Craine (AL). (2/5/97).
(Reliant on in-situ gear and carabiners: E6 if good, E7 if not - P.R & B.Bransby)

The Collection Plate E7 6b
A direct start to broad church, start left of first pitch, climb wall to roof traverse right and pull over roof into shallow groove (peg?), climb up to belay on first pitch.
Nick Dixon and N Craine (prob 1997)

Mister Softy E6

A fine outing up the back wall of the zawn. Start at the base of the obvious pillar approximately 10m left of T Rex.

1 15m. 5b. Climbs the obvious pillar to a small overlap. Pull over this into a decomposing groove and follow this to a disappointing stance, old pegs.

2 40m. 6b. Move left into a groove (passing 2 old pegs) and climb up and right onto a hanging slab. Follow this to more old pegs, rest. Weird moves leftwards and upwards bail round an arête into a groove. Follow this, where angels tread to fear. Upwards and leftwards to join the Janitor finish, halfway along it's traverse. Belay here.

3 25m. 6a. Climbs the obvious groove above to a deep slot. Traverse recklessly leftwards to a short hanging groove. From the top of this, exit rightwards onto the Dream of White Horses slab. Finish up this with disconcerting difficulty

G.Smith, A.Wainwright (AL). (ground up). (30/8/94).

The Mad Brown E7

A fabulous expedition up the loosness left of Mister Softy. None of the pitches are excessively serious or difficult.

1 6a/b. Climb the first 7 metres of Mister Softy to a large fin. Swing round left and cross the wall on good holds to gain a straight crack leading to a roof. Surmount this to gain a wide crack and good resting holds. Traverse left and stupidly enter the huge hole. Belay on in-situ ice pegs and a cam 4.

2 6b. Move out left, peg runners, and grasp a suitcase shaped thread block. Good holds lead up to a crack. Slap for the short arête on the left and gain the slab above with difficulty. In-situ ice peg belay and some arbitrary cams etc.

3 5b. Follow the Conan traverse to belay on the in-situ thread, just right of the pegs. Good belay.

4 6a. Follow the top pitch of Mister Softy for 7 metres, up the wide-open groove to a good spike and arrange protection. Step down and swing left round a fin to gain diagonal cracks. Go up to an obvious hand jam and left into a niche, peg runners. Exit the niche, left to attain a sloping boss. Cross the headwall leftwards for 5 metres to better holds in the mosail choss. Go straight up the shallow groove in obscure holds to the roof. Surmount this in a position of sensational rope drag.

G.Smith, A.Wainwright (AL). (1996). Abseil inspection after numerous days of ground up attempts ended near top of pitch 2.

Notes: The first two pitches are difficult to escape from and stay dry. (Unless you are blessed like Leo and Noel and happen to leaving the cave on the lowest tide ever). One possibility would be to trail an abseil rope, though this may dislodge loose stuff from the lip, without great care.

Igdrazil

Broken Mirror

Uhuru

Boogie Woogie

Thor

Conan the Librarian E6 ***

The first pitch combined with The Janitor finish gives an outstanding outing. Well protected and highly recommended space walking. The line of this route is truly gobsmacking. It goes up the inside of the arch underneath the promontory opposite Wen slab and then traverses across the outrageous back wall of the zawn underneath A Dream of White Horses. Abseil off the promontory down the Uhuru wall opposite Wen slab to reach the base of the zawn (tide dependent). The right hand side of theUhuru wall contains a massive groove, the line of The Unrideable Donkey. Start just right of this.

1. 25m. 6b. Climb diagonally rightwards up the slab to gain the right arete of the wall. Step right around the arete into an amazing bottomless hanging groove. Storm up this with immaculate palming and bridging until it is possible to exit rightwards to a hanging belay off rusty pegs and cams (size 1/2?) in the horizontal crack under the roof at the top of the groove.

2. 12m. 6a. The Janitor Finish ***

The most popular way of doing the route is one of the best trad routes in the world. From the belay, gain the wide open groove up and right. Follow the wide groove until level with the obvious traverse right across the zawn.
3 18m 5c. Follow the traverse line right to eventually gain a hanging stance on the Wen slab side of the arch.

4. 25m.5c. The Golden Bough, or a more sensibly follow the crowds across Dream

J.Dawes and C.Smith (alt leads) 1986. It rained most of the time we were on the first ascent.

Variation
Conan the Librarian Original Finish E7 **

2a. 36m. 6b. Gain the wide groove of the second pitch Continue up this until it peters out in steep territory. Many peg runners hereabouts.Traverse desperately leftwards on a very narrow slab sandwiched between overhangs and continue left to reach easier ground on The Unridable Donkey,optional stance.Finish up and right skirting the edge of the orange scarred rockfall area.

J.Dawes and C.Smith, 1980 something (1 PA)

FFA S.Mayers, G.Farquhar (1992)

The Undertaker E7 6c 25m

S.Mayers, G.Farquhar,1992.

The Unridable Donkey 60m E7

P.Pritchard and?, 1987
Top pitch now M.I.A. but can still be climbed skirting the edge of the rockfall scar.

Instant Van Goch E5 6b 23m.

G.Smith, J.Harrison,1996.

The Cryptic Rift

A hidden and dark underworld, that resides inside the promotory that britomartis climbs. To reach the first few route, abseil down the front lefthand corner (looking out), as for the boulder hop approach to the base of Wen Slab. A short distance down from the top is a rift that runs through the promontory, descend to a ledge near the outside of this and continue down into the rift for a further 15m to a ledge.

Escapegoat 15m E1

This would appear to take the line of least resistance to the boulder choke/ledge at the mouth of the rift. Scramble off.

Agrophobia E4 5c (1986)

Dislocation Dance E3 5c **

An amazing route ideal for those days when the sun is just too hot. This atomospheric route virtually loops itself end just abolve where you started, have taken in some territory for the grade.

C.Waddy and ? (1986)

The Wild Underdog E7 6b/c

G.Smith. (7/96).

Evidently Chickentown

Hard for E5, confusing route description (and rightly so) but good

Minute Man

Sprung

The Trap

Star of the Sea

Gobbler's Arete

Vend-T

The Sad Cow E3 6a

Me(?) and George, (5/91).

Britomartis HVS
Magnificent steep wall climbing up the north wall of the promontary. Abseil off the front of the promontory to a large ledge above the sea and belay.
1. 4c. A tricky traverse left gains the main line of monsterous jugs and flakes in the centre of the wall. Follow these to a small belay ledge about 10m (?) below the top.
2. Traverse rightwards along the easiest line to finish near the arete.

Friday's Extendable Arms E2 5c

Nick Arding, Dave Pearce. (10/10/03).

Toiler on the Sea

Spider Wall

The Bluebottle

Billy Bud E6 6b 17m

A good steep pitch with perfect rock and protection. Abseil down to the island underneath Spiders Web arch. Pendulum into the cliff and clip an in-situ (?) nut. From here, go rightwards under the roof for more gear - pull round the roof and deal with the leaning crack above. Pull over a bulge and grab the 'handle' (don’t use this feature for a thread as it will break - good wires instead). The next bulge is easier, continue up Spider Wall to a belay, with difficulty.

G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1991).

The 4th Dimension E7 6b/c 27m.

A.Wainwright. (16/7/96).

Heinous Flytrap E7

Takes the left arête of the wall, then large roof crack under Barfly. Start from 'the whale' (see appendix A). Swing into the groove in the middle of the steep wall (on a rope).
117m. 6b. Climb the groove to its top then out left along the obvious undercuts (etc) to a technical kneebar crossover crux (with a 'Greek kick' if you want) and on up large flakes to belay where it eases at jugs in a slight recess with a small spike.
2 10m. 6b. Continue up a short crack on the left, then swing out left onto a huge flake and duck round and under and then move up to belay at the left hand end of the obvious large roof crack.
313m. 6b. Follow the crack rightwards to lip.
4 20m. 4c. Easier to top.

C.Waddy, G.Smith (AL). (Ground-up stylee, except top pitch which was red-pointed on gear).

Appendix A - Access, comfort and escape.
Abseil straight down to the route from a thread under a boulder above the wall, clipping into the top two bits of in-situ gear on the not yet finished "4th Dimension & how to get there". This enables the swing to the groove to be made easily from the whale-like island. However, it's best to belay on it. The 2nd is a very uncomfortable hanging belay. If the belayer lowers off, with the rope clipped into separate runners, then one can, by pulling on alternative ropes, set up a swing that allows a good ledge, about 7m up Spiders Web, to be gained. This is a much more comfortable belay. This method also allows escape to be made. The second can then prussuk (only about15m) to regain the route.

Appendix B - Tides and seepage.
The island seems to remain above water at high neap tides, unless it is rough. However, it may be hard to swing into the route at this state of the tide.The 1st pitch is often dampish at the bottom in the morning, but this bit isn't too bad.

Spiders Web E5 68m.

A thrilling trip with some awkward moves. Good gear, standard rack.
1 5c. Pitch one is pegless and tough.
2 6b. Bridge the chimney to its top. Extend the web with sling. Bridge down to the lip. Reverse arm bar a slot, good wire #1. Swing out across the lip and layback vigorously.
3 5a. ..and so on.

G.Smith, T.Bonner. (6/91).

Bar Fly E6/7 6b

G.Smith. (6/91).

The Boston Struggler E5 70m. (link to video)

A very good route which desevers to become a classic
1 23m. 5c. Climb pitch 1 of Blowout, then layback flakes leading out leftwards from the huge wide chimney left of Spiders Web. Belay at the arête.
2 13m. 6b. Swing into the wild roof slot and jam round the lip with more gambling bars than Monte Carlo. Belay in the groove above.
3 34m. 5c. Swing round right and climb the gently overhanging scoop of knobs and flakes above the Web, finishing rightwards. Bit loose.

G.Smith, D.Kendall. (6/91).

Forgery E5 6b 34m.

C.Waddy, J,Vlasto. (7/89).(Better maybe, having gone round the roof, step right, hard, to an easy flake)

Archway

Blowout
Genuflex

(Will Mawrgets the) Vulcan Lip Lock

is left of Genuflex, not right.

Ipso Fatso 30m E1, 5b
The chimney line and corner to the right of the Ipso Facto wall.
Climb the chimney to the overhang, pull up into a loose corner and continue to the top.
A Morley, D Ferguson, M Rowlands (21/12/97)

Ipso Facto 30m VS 4c

Kraken VS 4c
Climbs the crack left of Ipsofacto.
P.A.James, A.Leary (April 2008)

Mustang 30m VS 4c.
Steep climbing, but low in the grade, up the wall to the left of the descent. Start below the first groove along the ledges, and climb it to the top.
T.Taylor, D.Garner (1970)

Carol VS

Climbs the vague crack 5m right of Mr. Seal. Go up the crack to a ledge and bear left. A step right gains a quartz jug and the top.

J.Dalton, F.Williams. (11/4/90).

Mr Seal 30m VS 4C
Nice climbing, although bold in places. Start left of Mustang, at the next groove along the ledges. Climb the groove/ramp, on big holds at first, until a couple of trickier moves lead to a ledge. The small wall on the right is then crossed to gain a triangular slab, and a finish is made up the groove at the back.
AD Newton, AJ Howells, CM Parry (25/08/1981)

The Tail 32m E3 5C
Start at a pointed block on the traverse along the ledges, left again from Mr Seal, and beneath the second groove. Climb the groove direct to the top.
J Brown, D Jones (19/10/1978)

Miura is not VS and has been superseded completely by the next route.

The Tail (worth E3 5c - takes the 3rd groove along the ledges, not the 2nd) and the following route:

Huncho E2 5b

Quite a serious pitch. This takes the shallow groove 3m left of The Tail. Climb the groove, bold, to a bulge, lots of poor runners. Move up carefully to gain easier ground. Finish up left, blind but excellent rock.

M.Crook, A.Newton. (18/4/94).

Maverick VS

"I was belaying at mate when I was about 16. He took an 80ft fall straight into the sea. The chap Simon didnt really hurt himself badly but he did not really go climbing again. We all thought it was the first wet point ascent!"Twid.

Flooze VS 4c 37m.

A much better way of climbing Maverick. A good pitch at the grade. Start as for Maverick. Climb up leftwards around the shallow arête and up into a shallow groove. Climb directly up the wall, on excellent holds, steep, to reach the top. Belay well back.
D.Ferguson, C.Brown. (1993).

Annie's Arch E1 95m

A marvellous excursion at a reasonable grade through territory usually reserved for much harder routes, It traverses above the big sea cave and continues the traversing theme across Spider Wall. Start as for Ipso Facto below the easy wall 15m left of the huge arch.
1 20m 4c Climb cracks in the wall and step right to the arete. Climb this until a step across into a groove can be made, belay.
2 20m 5a Step down and right and cross the wall with trepidation. Continue to the arete and move up to a hole. Traverse down and right to a slab which is descended to a corner, belay.
3 15m 5a Traverse right to gain the arete, loose, step down and make a wild move round a big fin to step right onto a slab. Descend this for 5m to a corner and belay, on the lip of the cave. (As for Spiders Web)
4. 30m 5a Step down to a crack and follow this right for 3m. Make a descending traverse to a big flake on Spider Wall. Move up to a big spike and traverse right into the next crack system, (Britomartis). Descend this for 3m until a traverse right leads to a huge ledge and a belay at the top of the ramp.
5. 10m 4c Finish up the wide crack.

North Stack Wall

drevil — Tue, 20 Jan 2009 21:11:48 CST

An ideal single pitch venue for beginners! Not! despite its easy access, single pitch nature this wall has far too many 'chop' routes for its own good. Whilst there are a couple of amicable lines that won't kill you, there are some real frighteners with marginal gear and sustained friable climbing. The Cad, The Bells! The Bells! and a lot more besides.

Interestingly John Redhead's ascent of The Bells!... in 1981 was the first E7 in the country! The cave also hosts breeding seals for about a month after the autumn
equinox in late September. Well worth a visit to view from the clifftop butplease do not go into the zawn at this time, you would disturb them, theymay bite you.

Parliament House Cave South Wall

Make your mark on the interactive topo here

Touching Cloth E1 35m

C.Waddy. (5/90).

Parliament House Cave

Black Rod

L’Affreuse

The Big Overhang

Pigs in Space A4

A direct start to Black Rod from The Big Overhang pedistal. Traverse from the top of The Big Overhang start pillar, to the knackered tat below the belay of Black Rod. Bloody desperate and total death should one placement fail.Estimated time: 3hrs.Ropes, hooks and Bottoming K.B's behind loose blocks.

James Howel, Dave Anderson. (1992?).

North Stack Wall

Wall of Horrors

Birth Trauma

The Whip E1 5a 44m

The long groove to the left of Birth Trauma is a dangerous route, friable and bold. Start at the sloping platform at the foot of the groove.
1. 5a. Climb the groove on friable holds and increasingly poor protection, avoiding a loose block near the top on the right.
D.K.Scott, B.Palmer (May 1968)

Headbutt

Tom’s Shredded Slippers

Green Gilbert E1 5a *

Not the horror show you might expect! Only slightly friable rock, quite a lot of average runners and fairly decent climbing! Follow the obvious flake crack just right of Blue Peter to the top of the crag.

Art Groupie E6 6a **

Follow Blue Peter to where it moves left. From this point a hidden hold provides the key to gaining the wall above, climb this trending rightwards slightly to a hands off ledge and small wires (from here it is possible to escape up Green Gilbert) . Move back up leftwards following the obvious line up the wall to a junction with Blue Peter, finish up this.

Blue Peter E4 5c

Sarah Greene E4 5c

A direct up the groove to the left of Blue Peter is bold to start. A no. 6 Wallnut may prove useful. After 8 metres break out to join Blue Peter at the end of its traverse left.

A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade 30m E6/7 6b ***

Fantastic climbing with adequate protection on the steep right arete of the wall. Follow The Sarah Green Start to Blue Peter to the junction with the latter and arrange protection. Follow an obvious series of overlaps out leftwards passing some small wires until it is possible to pull around onto the edge of the wall. A small wire runner and a foothold provide some respite before tricky moves lead straight up past a break to easier ground on the traverse of The Bells, The Bells. The wall above is climbed with more tricky moves past a crucial small wire placement and continues with sustained climbing to the top.

A.Pollitt and A Hughes 20/5/88. Originally given E8. Opinion seems to be split over whether it merits E6 or E7.Second ascent by P.Pritchard.Has had numerous on-sight ascents.

Flower of Evil E6 6b

The Angleman E7
1. 6b.Start as for Wreath Climb this until at the small wire runner at the top of the steep groove. Traverse directly left to arrive at the peg on The Bells at head height. climb the crux of this until level with the old bolt scar on The Cad gain this and belay (a rope from the top was originally in place clipped to the bolt for a belay- what you do now there is no bolt is anyones guess)
2. 6a. A rising traverse left from the old bolt scar on The Cad until you arrive at a hard move into The Long Run to finish.

D.Towse,J.Redhead

The Clown E7 6b 40m ***

A counter diagonal to The Bells, The Bells. Has it’s fair share of hard climbing which is often difficult to read. Where it’s not so hard it’s either bold or serious. Another magnificent epic outing on this criss-crossed wall. Start left of the obvious open groove of Sarah Greene below the biggest overlaps. Climb up a left facing flake to the first overlap and protection which requires extending to prevent rope drag later. Tricky moves over this lead to the second overlap (small wire out right). Surmount this to achieve a good rest near the right arête of the wall (junction with The Bells, The Bells). Forage along leftwards in a rising diagonal traverse aiming for the prominent flake of The Cad. There is serious groundfall potential on this section. Lace the flake with protection (small thread in the top leftmost section). Follow the dwindling left hand continuation of the flake until it peters out in a pink area of wall (RP runner). Difficult moves (crux) through the small overlaps above lead to easier ground which takes you to a junction with The Long Run at the horizontal break. Finish up this.J.Redhead .D.Towse, J.Sylvester, 25/4/84.

The Hollow Man 30m E7/8 6b ***

Brilliant but heart-stopping climbing up the magnificent wall between the lines ofThe Cad andA Wreath of Deadly Nightshade. Essentially a direct version of The Bells, The Bells. Start as for The Clownbeneath overlaps left of the groove of Sarah Greene. Follow The Clownthrough the overlaps to a good resting position near the right arete of the wall (junction with The Bells, The Bells). Continue up The Bells, The Bells past the peg runner (crux) and continue to easier ground where the The Bells, The Bells goes right. Move up and left to a good pocket and crucial small cam placement. Continue directly to the top.

A.Pollitt and J.Dawes, 2/10/86.Second ascent by Mike Owen. According to the third ascentionist, Twid, perhaps deserves E8. Andy Pollit did give it E8 originally.

Ground up ascent by Neil Dickson.

The Bells, The Bells 40m E7 6b **

The first E7 in the UK climbs the wall right of The Cad after starting up that route. Very serious. Follow The Cad up the initial shallow groove to surmount the small overlap and gain a reasonable spike runner in the wall above. Traverse horizontally right on the lip of the overlap to a good resting position near the right arete of the wall (junction with The Hollow Man). In the wall above is an old protruding peg runner , this is what you are aiming for. Climb the wall with difficulty (crux). The old peg is much easier to clip if there is a sling on it but the new peg just above cannot be clipped until after the crux in any case. Continue up the slightly easier wall above untill and a rightwards traverse can be made to a no-hands rest on a ledge on the arete. The crack/groove in the arete leads to a sloping ledge and then the top with much relief.

J.Redhead and C.Shorter, 1980 or 81?, The first E7 in the UK.Second ascent by Andy Pollitt.

The Cad 35m E6 6a ***
About F6c….can’t be that hard, can it? This super-classic is worthy of it's reputation. Start at the centre of the wall, 15m left of Blue Peter. Climb the shallow groove and surmount the small overlap to a reasonable flake runner. If you’re feeling immortal, The Bells… heads off rightwards here. Climb carefully up the wall trending slightly rightwards towards a prominent undercling-flake. Gear and sometimes a situ thread. The flake flexes very slightly but has held the fall. Move up right past the remains of a bolt (which can still be looped with a small wire) to a foot ledge. Go straight up the wall above (crux) to a deceptive break, easier ground and a pat on your back from your second. Life feels good again.
Ron Fawcett, Chris Gibb 1978 (2 bolt runners). First bolt-free ascent by Nick Dixon ?1984. I think '86. Nick did not remove the bolt until he had done the route without clipping it. I still have the original hanger.

VariationThe Cad Direct Start

The Long Run 35m E5 6a***
Fine climbing. Has more gear than The Cad although nothing in the crucial middle section is completely convincing. Start as for The Cad, moving left before the flake runner to gain the right hand end of an overlap (small cams) or reach the same point directly at a similar standard. Climb the wall above trending slightly leftwards initially then straight up on sometimes friable rock until the angle eases and a horizontal break with excellent gear is gained. Traverse right 3m then go up and diagonally back left.

Pete Whillance,R Parker and D Armstrong 30/9/79

VariationThe Long Run Direct 30m E6 6b ***

A direct start and finish to this amazing route. Start directly below the vague line of the parent route. Climb directly up and over the lap to join the parent route. Continue up this to the horizontal break where The Long Run goes right. Get some good runners in then blast straight up the seam above which continues to tax until your hand is on the top of the cliff. Pull over with relief.

D.Towse, J.Redhead, 11/88

South Sea Bubble 30m E3 **

An unbalanced but nevertheless worthwhile pitch, which follows the prominent crackline after a worrying start. Climb the short wall to a small right facing corner, line sling. Gear can be arranged further right, but it might not protect the crux rockover the roof to get established on the wall above and reach the sanctuary of the crack. Delightful and well protected climbing up the flake crack leads to a narrow ledge. Contemplate a tricky boulder problem up the wall above, or scurry off left!

Jim Moran, Simon Horrox, Al Evans, Geoff Milburn, 30/7/78

The Demon’s of Bosch

Nice n' Sleazy 30m E1 * 5a

Pleasant climbing up the crackline 7m left of South Sea Bubble. A good introduction to the wall. Start beneath the crack and climb easily to where the crack steepens. Warily follow the crackline until it finally closes, move left to a big flake and easy ground.
Al Evans, Geoff Milburn, Jim Moran. 30/7/78

Talking Heads 30m E2 ** 5b

Start 2m left of Nice'n Sleazy (low tide, or abseil from the old rings to a hanging belay).Traverse left just above the sea until direct beneath an obvious overhang. Climb the wall and a crack easily to a bulge. Move up right to the overhang. Awkwardly gain good holds above and continue to stand on them. Move left to the final crack and follow this more easily.Jim Moran, G Milburn, Al Evans, S Horrox. 30/7/78

Pulling for two E6 6b

This route is less strenuous if you are good with your foetus.Climb Talking Heads to the roof a long reach left gains a strenous pull up over a roof via an obvious crack. Peg up left. Traverse left on the quarty vein and follow the quartz vein and holds to join the finish of Live at the Witch Trials.

Twid and Louise Thomas, 2005 (Louise was 6 months pregnant!)

Live at the Witch Trials

Not Fade Away

Penelope Undercling

Le Bon Sauveur

The Wrath of Deadly Lampshades E5 6a/b 27m

The obvious cracks left of Le Bon Sauveur, are hard for 17m then more easily lead up the left hand side of the large overhang.

Alister Hopkins, George Smith. (5/91).

Sincerely El Cohen

End Game

Drug Buddy VS 4c 25m

Climbs the chimney/groove to the right (looking out to sea) of End Game. Bridge up the chimney until it is possible to pull onto the slabby wall on the left, then climb the wall and groove to the top.P.Greening. (5/12/95).(May have been climbed by Nigel and Barbara Jones a few years before - AW).

Rickety Fence Route HXS 5c/6a 27m

Exact location unclear, maybe near the rickety fence?

G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

The Jigs Up E5 6a 23m

Start as for Rickety Fence Route at a hanging belay on the arête. Move up the groove in the arête to holds below the first bulge. These lead leftwards onto the overhanging face. Climb a fragile flake to a rest at its top, then sprint straight up to the top.

G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

Easter Island Gully

Chedi.Knight — Sat, 16 Aug 2008 12:27:46 CDT

Named after the rock pillar that marks the top of the descent gully, that bears an erie resemblence to those on the south pacific island of the same name. The approach is one of the more exciting at Gogarth, and to think two rock climbers reputedly took a local alcoholic down there in cowboy boots, they must have been trying to kill him!

The difficult and intimidating approach means that you will more often than not be alone at this venue. The approach can be tamed by bringing a rope to fix down the lower descent gully to where it is possible to abseil again down the line of Supercrack, so bring rope and lots of it! (Alternatively, bring one long abseil rope approx 70m???, and do the abseil in one from better belays than the ones you'll find just above the Zawn). Not the best place place for your first visit

Although reasonably small, the access to this section of cliff would otherwise be impossible. There are many classic in this area like Hombre, Swastika, Wonderwall and Orzmud.

Approach

To reach the first routes, traverse right from the Wonderwall Zawn at barnacle level, until just before the point where the cliff juts out and the traverse peters out.

Watership Down 34m VS 4c
A fun route which is to be found just to the right (looking out) when descending the upper part of the approach gully en route for the Easter Island climbs. Start at the foot of the buttress where there is a slab on the right. Climb a steep crack in the slab to an overhang at six metres, then move left and make a hard move right to enter a chimney groove which is climbed more easily then go up leftwards to a ledge on the nose. A tricky step up right on dubious holds gains the finishing groove.
A Evans G Milburn (05/11/1978)

Swastika 62m E1 *
A steep, committing climb on good rock, with one tricky move to start. Start beneath the obvious groove immediately before the wall projects out and becomes very hard to traverse.
1 15m 5C. Drop down a few metres and traverse onto the front of the buttress. Bear rightwards up to a flake then make a descending traverse right to a stance and belay.
2 10m 5A. From the base of the chimney (Praetor) move onto the right wall and ascend to a flake. Go up rightwards from this to a ledge and peg belay.
3 15m 5A. Go straight up then right to a ledge on the arete, then carry on to a second ledge, and from its left end pull over the bulge and ascend leftwards to a peg belay (as for Praetor).
4 22m. 5A Traverse left for three metres and pull onto a small slab and climb the steep crack above, moving right to finish up a small corner.
LE Holliwell, LR Holliwell (VL) (17/05/1969)

Praetor 57m E1
Another committing proposition, again with one tricky move at the start. Start as for Swastika.
1 15m 5C As for Swastika.
2 21m 5A Gain the shallow chimney and follow this and the crack above to a peg belay.
3 21m 5A Continue, following the obvious line to the top.
J Brown I MacNaught-Davis (1 pt aid) (14/05/1967)

This Year's Model - E3
A superb route taking a steep and exposed line up the black wall right of Hombre. Start as for Swastika.
1 40m 5C. Follow Swastika, around past Hombre, then go up a shallow crack/groove bearing leftwards until a line of holds leads up rightwards across the steep wall to slabs. Belay at the base of a ramp.
2 21m 5A Take the obvious crack between Swastika and Praetor.
J Moran, P Jewell (AL) (13/06/1978)

Lost in SpaceGrade??

The Wall left of this years model.Climb the wall in two pitches up cracks and face climbing .
Twid/Louise

Boil All Irishmen 60m E5
This again follows the wall to the right of Hombre, starting as for that route.
1 30m 6B Climb the wall right of Hombre, by two thin seams, to reach a dubious hold. Span right and move up to a sloping ledge and belay.
2 30m 4C Step left and follow the groove, on its right side, aiming for a crack and finish up this.
C Smith, ME Crook (AL) (07/1986)

Hombre 64m E1 **
A brilliant and popular route with excellent climbing at its grade, good protection and solid rock. Start as for Swastika.
1 15m 5B Climb up into the corner above until quartz holds lead right to the arete, then go strenuously up a small groove to reach a ledge and belays on the right.
2 37m 5B Climb the groove then the steep crack above.
3 12m Easy cracks lead o the top
J Brown, I MacNaught-Davies (1 pt aid) (14/05/1967)

Big Gut 52m VS
A varied and interesting climb, reasonable for its grade. Start as for Swastika, below the groove.
1 15m 4C The groove leads pleasantly to a ledge.
2 10m The broken corner on the left leads to a ledge.
3 27m 4C Climb the slabby groove to small ledge, then take the broken corner to reach the top.
J Brown, D Alcock (08/01/1967)

Rock Island Line 45m HVS*
This climb takes the obvious arete between Big Gut and Crossover. To th left of Big Gut is an obvious break of yellow rock that trends slightly right. Start at the foot of a groove immediately right of this yellow break.
1 23m 5A Go right and climb the fine open arete to a ledge, then take the short corner crack, as for Big Gut, to the ledge.
2 22m 5A Take the thin flake crack in the wall left of Big Gut until an easier wide crack leads to the top.
J Moran, A Evans (AL) (13/05/1978)

Crossover 50m VS
Start as for Rock Island Line
1 15m 4B Climb the groove to belay on a good ledge on Big Gut.
2 10m 4C Take the crack in the right wall, then the shallow groove which leads back into the main corner, to belay as for Big Gut.
3 25m 4B Climb steeply up the lab on the right of a thin crack in the right wall, then take the groove and a flake on the right to finish.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (22/01/1967)

Rotten Gut 45m HVS 5A
A disgusting-looking route which goes through the yellow break. Start directly beneath the break and climb the groove by its right wall to reach the overhang. Step right thn go into the break on the left above the overhang. Finish more easily above.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (30/04/1967)

Catalogue Man's Big Adventure E3 5c 33m.

Mat Smith, Ray Saunders. (21/5/94)

.
Fluke 50m HVS
Strenuous climbing up the wall between Rotten Gut and Small Gut. Start beneath a groove, a few metres right of Tape Worm.
1 15m 4B Climb the overhanging groove diagonally rightwards to a small ledge, then move left to climb a short crack to reach a belay ledge on the left.
2 20m 5B Move back right and go up the wall to a short overhanging crack. Go over the bulge above then step left and ascend to another ledge. Belays higher up.
3 15m 4A Step right (as for Small Gut) to climb a crack which leads to the top.
P Crew, A Alvarez (2 pts aid) (14/05/1967)

Small Gut 60m HVS
Start as for Fluke, beneath the groove a few metres right of Tape Worm.
1 20m 4A Climb the groove to a ledge with spike belays.
2 10m 5A Take the clean-cut groove above.
3 30m 4A Go right along ledges for 12 metres then finish up a thin crack.
J Brown, D Alcock (08/01/1967)

Tape Worm 50m HVS
A direct line up the groove just right of the arete, with a steep top pitch. Start beneath the clean-cut groove just right of the arete.
1 10m 4C Climb the groove to a stance on a sloping ledge.
2 12m 4C Follow the thin diagonal crack on the left to a small ledge, then stp right to another ledge and spike belay.
3 28m 5A Steeply climb the cracked wall, to the left of the clean-cut groove of Small Gut, straight to the top.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (15/01/1967)

Merchant Man 45m E1
Well-positioned climbing up the airy arete between Tape Worm and Phagocyte leads to a rather gripping pitch above. Start just right of the arete.
1 20m 5B Climb the wall just right of the arete to where it steepens, then climb the flying arete itself to a cramped stance (as for Phagocyte).
2 25m 5A Move up right then climb the true arete which leads, thankfully, to easier rock and the top.
J Moran, G Milburn (06/05/1978)

Phagocyte 45m HVS
A good hearty route up the steep crack just left of the right arete of the wonderwall Zawn. Start beneath the obvious steep crack.
1 22m 5a Climb the crack strenuously until a short traverse right leads to a cramped stance just right of the arete.
2 23m 5a Go up right and make a neatly technical rightwards move to access a groove. Follow this to the top, difficulties easing with height.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (30/04/1967)

Wonderwall *** E3 6a 45m
High in the grade. A sustained pitch. Start beneath the central crack, just R of Phagocyte. Climb the crack quickly until forced left into another crack. Follow this to the imposing roof. Pull up and rightwards (crux) into a groove which trends rightwards. Move back left on friable flakes to a small foot ledge. Move back right to climb the arete, in a fine position, to arrive at palacial belay on the arete.

I Wonder Why

Volcano
E2's okay. Up the righthand corner of the back of easter island gully looking in. Gear was fine but a tad streneous and bird bound (bit veggy too).

The Ragged Runnel E5 6a 50m.

A good adventure through 'territory'. Ascend the first pitch of Wandering Wall, free climbing past the fishing rod manoeuvre (possible stance here). Arrange some protection and battle with the roof. Place some more good gear round on the wall above before the legs collapse, then go up the shattered dyke to a rest on a tiny ledge. Continue up the disintegrating scoop above past a possible spike belay. The top requires some care. (It would be possible to escape onto the Wonderwall side of the zawn after the easier ground is reached). Belay well back on the path down to the zawn. The route in no way supersedes Wandering Wall, it is merely an alternative exploit for those without fishing rods.

G.Smith. (on-sight, completely in bulk). (28/8/91).

Exit Groove HVS 5a
The steep crack in the lefthand back corner of the zawn gives steep and well protected climbing. Climb the chimney, move left to a crack and climb to a vertical slot. Step left to a niche and finish up the crack to reach the abseil point.
J.Brown, P.Crew, (22/1/67)

Shagger's Start HVS 5b *
A much better variation to Exit Groove, taking the crack between Supercrack and the lower corner of Exit Groove, moving right to finish up the latter.
P.Trower, I.Wilson (April 1989)

Supercrack*** E3 5c. 38m
The hard to miss snaking crack to the left of the abseil. Start opposite Wonderwall, at a fang like flake beneath the steep left hand crack. Rapidly climb the pumpy crack to a respite at 12m. Follow the kinking crack leftwards to where it steepens slightly. Continue directly to a large belay ledge.
Low in the grade.

Sex Lobster

Belial HVS 5a *
Takes the steep overhanging groove in the front face of the zawn, immediately outside it in the direction of Wen Zawn. From a rock platform gain the groove and make exposed but well protected moves to finish more easily at the abseil point.
P.Crew, A. Alvarez (5/2/67)

Pequod E3 5c
The obvious scooped crack left of Belial Climb the wall to reach the flake crack in the middle of the scoop, follow this to the bulge and continue up the right-trnding crack to reach easier ground.
Jim Moran, Al Evans. 23/4/78

Drag

Vicious Fish

Neutrino
E1 5b ? - It's more like E2 5c. Yes, at least E2 5b/c

Exit Chimney

The Real Keel

Annihilator

For Madmen Only

Ormuzd E4 5b, 5c
The big overhanging Chimney with a roof at its top and an airy continuation above.

The Red Sofa

The Ancient Mariner

Ahriman HVS 5a *
This route takes the wall and groove in the arete left of Ormuzd. The first pitch starts well left of Ormuzd at a left trending diagonal crack.

Gazebo HVS 5a *
A good pitch on nice rock, with some route finding interest. It takes the orange wall left of Ahriman. Start up the left trending diagonal crack of Ahriman, but continue up this for 8 metres before moving right to a spike. Climb in to the bottomless groove above and follow this to a short corner. Follow the corner to a ledge below a second corner. From the bottom of this corner move left on to the wall and climb direct to the top.
L.E. Holliwell, L R Holliwell, D.Mossman (1/12/68)

Tumbling Dice E3 6a
Start as for Ahriman.Follow the crack until holds leadup right to the small overgang.Surmount this with difficulty and head up right to a flake.. Step left and climb thesteep open corner and a final corner/crack to the top.
Jim Moran, G Milburn. 29/4/78

An Unimportant Wave

Perpendicular VS 4b
Start as for Ahriman

1. follow the crack to a ledge on the arete on the left.m Moran
2. Go left into the groove of Diagonal, then take the obvious flake crack out across the wall and finish direct.
Al Evans, Jim Moran 23/4/78

Belvedere E2, 5c, 5b
The obvious arete left of Perpendicular.
Joe Brown, F Corner, D Jones (1 pt aid. 2/5/78) FFA M Crook 1986

Diagonal VS 4c
Start beneath the shallow groove left of Belvedere, climb it and finish up the wall on the right.
Joe Brown, Dave Alcock. 8/1/67

Diatom VS 4c
Start as for Diagonal, follow this for 6mts to the arete, Climb the arete on the right to the finish of Perpendicular.
Al Evans, Jim Moran. 23/4/78

Micron HVS 5a
Thediagonal crack left of the groove of Diagonal
FA

Microdot HVS 5a
The crack left of Micron, over the bulge at half height to finish up an easy corner
Jim Moran, G Milburn. 29/4/78

The Range

CaptainCrochet — Sat, 16 Aug 2008 07:13:05 CDT

The RangeOS: 210801

American Excess XS 5c 23m.
A route of three halves; at first wet, then steep, then loose.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

The Banana Spire E4/5 5c 30m.
Start on the arête and move up to where it steepens. Climb the front of the face directly to a notched bulge at the very top. Pull through here. Will become a pleasant, pumpy E4, but a bit snappy at present.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

Independ Ant HVS 5a 30m.
Climbs the centre of the large quartzy wall left of The Corner. Start at the largest boulder in the cove.
Climb the lower wall through two quartz bands to pass between two vegetated patches and gain a long slabby rib which leads to the top and a belay stake.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (26/08/07). Cleaned and inspected on abseil.

In a Fit of Pique VS 4c
Independance slab From the foot of Roberts Eve, climb diagonally left, crossing Tired of Toeing the Line, to finish to its left.Don Robson (solo). (18/5/96).

Stormy Monday HVS 5a 30m.
In the Zawn behind Independence Slab, before reaching Grimper/ The Prat In the Flat, there is an obvious white slab with a large overlap at on third height. The route follows the left edge of the slab crossing the overhang at its widest point. There are belay stakes at the top. It is advised the abseil rope is left in place as the last 2 meters are vertical turf. Protection is sparse on the upper wall and rock not totally dependable.D.Robson, D.Birch, M.Pretty. (26/8/92).

Straight and Narrow HVS 4c 30m.
Climbs the centre of the slab right of Stormy Monday. Take the narrow crack to the overlap which is breached at a notch. Climb straight up the centre of the slab above. There is a surprising amount of (poor) gear but a rope for the top is advised (though not used on the first ascent).
M.Gutteridge, C.Sullivan. (28/08/04).

Tidal Race HVS 5a 30m.
On the right hand side of Stormy Monday slab is a crack and corner line ending at a square cut overlap. Climb up to the overlap and traverse right. Climb the arete and then a shallow corner to an earth and grass finish.
J.Martin, C.Dale. (25/08/07).

? VS 4c 29m.
Immediately right of the Straight and Narrow slab is a V shaped slab. Climb the corner in the left hand side of the slab.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (26/08/07). Cleaned and inspected on abseil.

T"Ann"trum HVS 5A 22m **
Start at the bottom of The Prat in the Flat, step across the Zawn and climb a twisting crack to the roof. Step left and up to a block in the middle of the roof, swing right onto the block and climb the weakness through the upper roof, to a step right. Finish up the quartzy line going slightly left.
C.Dale, J.Martin. (23/6/07).

The Seamed Wall VS 4c 20m.
Start at the virtually non-tidal ledge at the foot of Prat in the Flat. Climb the corner for 6m then break out left onto the steep wall. Traverse left to reach the right slanting groove and follow it to the top. Stake belay well back.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (28/05/07).

Gravidational Effect HVD 19m.
Start at the right hand end of the Prat in the Flat ledge. Climb the flake line which zig-zags up the slab to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07).

Zig-Zag Slab VS 4c 24m.
Start in the next corner right from Prat in the Flat. Climb up the corner past the first overlap to reach the second, paler overlap. Follow this rightwards until near the edge of the slab. Climb up and left to finish up the right facing hanging corner.c
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).

Between Zig-Zag Slab and Icameisaurus is a corner with an obvious cave.
Who Needs Range West? VS 4c 25m.
Start at the bottom of a the ramp round to the left of the cave. Climb the ramp to pull rightwards round a bulge above the top of the cave. Climb up the deeply featured wall above and through an overlap to finish up the steep quartz wall.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (28/05/07).

Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs VS 4c 20m.
Start at the entrance of the cave left of Icameisaurus just above the barnacle line. Pull onto the quartz ledge above. Climb the rib rightwards then cross Who Needs Range West and take the gap through the roof above. Climb the groove and pull steeply rightwards onto the grooved arete. Follow this to the top and belay well back.
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).

Terms of Engagement HVS 5a 22m *
Above the right hand lip of the cave is a hanging corner. Climb up and over a bulge into the slabby corner which is climbed to the top.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (26/07/08)

Missed the Briefing VS 4b 22m
Climb the leaning arete between the two corners starting just right of Terms of Engagement.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (25/07/08)

The Day of the Jellyfish S 4a 22m
Climb the right hand corner starting up a blocky wall to the left of Icameisaurus.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (26/07/08)

The following 3 routes are on the island in the bay.

32.768 D 14m.
Start on the tidal platform at the seaward (SW) end of the island. Climb up from the niche at the right hand end of the face to reach a break. Trend left following a line of quartz to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07).

Anvil Porous HVS 5a 14m.
Climbs up to a small anvil shaped protrusion at 8m. Start below and left of the anvil 12m left of The Follow-Through Expurgation.
Climb the steep wall until an easing in the angle allows a step left to just below the anvil and finish straight to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07). Led onsight by Catherine with protection preplaced for the first 6m after Mike pulled a hold off and fell on the first ascent. This was Catherine's hardest lead to date - not bad for a pregnant girl!

The Follow-Through Expurgation HVS 5a,4c 16m.
Takes the obvious crackline up the centre of the steep South-East facing side of the island.
1. 10m 5a Breach the bulging groove to enter the corner above. Belay on the large ledge on the right.
2. 6m 4c Continue up the crack in the steep fragile wall above.
M.Gutteridge, C.Gutteridge alt leads. (25/08/07).
Note that while the crackline is obvious at a distance it isn't all that useful higher up. The route was pitched to make cleaning of the top section safer, should be worth a star if done in one pitch once the fragile bits have been removed.

Icameisaurus, not Icameosaurus.

Emmenthal Zawn

Dreygo's Guilt
5b.Start just left of Hieroglyphics below a quartzy boss.Lasso the boss, with a rope, then jump upwards to a jug on it. Continue easily then move up and left till under a large roof. Wimp out of trying this but instead go left round it, marvellously steep and juggy, to gain the top and flowers etc.C.Waddy, D.Lampard. (8/1989).

Pooh Bay

The Secret of my Excess XS 5b 42m.
On the south side of the bay, from the beach at half low tide, 5 metres seaward of the black and quartzy corner. Start by climbing a short wall to a groove which leads to the first overhang. Move 2 metres left below the overhang to beneath a golden quartzy boss. Pull through here and immediately skitter rightwards on undercuts. Move up and rightwards to the weakness in the next overlap, pull up and continue directly to where the slab becomes smooth and silvery. Now it all goes to rat shit; climb up to a rightwards trending groove and follow this to a few metres below the top. Go up leftwards onto a higher slab at a loose flake and grovel over onto the boulder clay. The surface of the silvery slab is fairly temporary and protection is an illusion for the top 15 metres.
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).

I am Curious Yellow E6 6a 27m.
This takes the golden groove up the centre of the back wall of Pooh Bay. A.K.A: The Curious George. Abseil in from stakes at the back of the zawn.Walk up leftwards on a stepped slab to where a stream comes out from the stepped wall. Climb a grey groove to get a high runner before moving right across the rotten band to gain a sloping quartzy shelf. Reach up to undercuts. This proves to be an uneasy place to remain and a difficult place to leave. Move up and rightwards into the main groove and follow the groove up to the headwall and then easier ground just below the top. Take extra cams.
G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998). Second ascent by Twid.

Parental Consent E7 6c
Climbs the over hanging line left of I am Curious Yellow. Start at a vague chimney line and follow the quartz to the roof. Cams. Peg and sumount the roof from the right crossing left to the strated crack which is followed with fun to the top. Belay on stacks. Double set of cams.
Twid (louise belayed but scrambled out as she was 7 months on) 2005 september I think.

Dichotomous wall

Dai-Wrecked E3
Start from a small quartz ledge, above high tide, gained by abseil from the Dichotomous stakes.
1 25m. 6a. Climb up a slab slightly rightwards to a square-cut overhang. Pass this rightwards by a contorted move into a hanging groove and continue straight up in the same line until the groove doglegs rightwards. Belay.
2 7m. 4c. Go easily rightwards and up in the same line to a shattered diagonal line. Crumbling remains.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/01).

Dai-Version E3/4 33m.
A much better route taking a multitude of overhangs.
1 15m. 5c. Climb straight up to a quartz-cracked overhang. Go through this and immediately through a second overhang above. Belay on a slab.
2 17m. 5c. Go up left over a small overlap to the lower of two noses. Climb left onto this and into an uncomfortable sandy groove. Go up this and left again onto the pick of the noses. Finish up the Dichotomous slab.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/02).

Ego Warriors E5 27m.
About 7 metres left of the top of Dichotomous at stakes, find two round bar stakes. Abseil down to a promontory and walk round right (facing in) to a ledge leading to the cove. Belay at the mouth of the cove, below a quartzy streaked wall.
1 17m. 6b. Climb the wall to a shelf, then move slightly down rightwards to good holds and steep ground. Continue up and rightwards to the top of the groove, vie a long reach, poor peg. Pull up into the groove (good peg, hidden on the right) and continue more easily on some doubtful rock to a belay on the stake.
2 10m. 5a. Of the many undesirable ways from here to the top, this is least atrocious. From behind the belay, go up slightly left then make a long step left again. Follow a weakness up slightly right to the top.
G.Huxter H.Jones. (1998).

The Following route is on the seaward face of the virtually detached piece of land by Ego Warriors & Funny Yellow etc.Go down a steep path to a beach and up onto the top of the island. Find a huge sea cave and abseil down to ledges of the left of the cave.

Honed on the Range E5 6a
From small ledges, above high water, follow an obvious left to right traverse across the lip of the cave. Arrange protection and embark on a thrilling sequence. A very very good episode of its type.
G.Smith, J.Harrison. (1998). Second ascent by Twid and Andy Perkins.

Black Country Route VS 4c 15m. On the seaward side of the island South of Honed on the Range is a shallow cave with a sinuous cracked groove in the back wall. Climb the groove to exit the cave, finish steeply. The black rock is of very good quality and the route is an excellent little VS. M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (26/08/07).

Dai on demand!

1 The through cave on the island with Honed on the range. Low tide. Traverse the rt hand side of the cave, one tricky down climb section, through under the arch to a sloping belay.6A 80ft
2Climb up a slab to a steep excit onto the slab above the arch. 6a 80ft
3 easy slab to the summit and tea! 80ft
Twid Dai Lampard alt. yonks ago

The Fortress

At the north end of the Fortress is a subsidiary outcrop, which has an arch through it. The following routes are found on this outcrop (The Turret) in the first zawn to the north of Honed on the Range. Abseil down a snake of quartz on the north side of the zawn.

The Snake HS 4b 15m.
Climb the line of the abseil to an overhang and go through this.
G.Huxter. (1998).

Some V.Diff Severe 17m.
Start from palatial ledges to the right of the start of the snake. Climb the slabby corner directly above the ledges.
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).

Grazed and Confused E3 5c 19m.
From palatial ledges, move rightwards towards the cave. Climb a slab diagonally rightwards to corrugated rock on a hanging arête. Climb directly above this to a small overhang on the arête, pull through and follow broken cracks slightly rightwards to an overhang. Go over this onto a hanging slab and on to the top.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

Reuben Friedman's Empty Bed HVS 5a 25m.
Start from palatial ledges. Move round rightwards, as for Grazed and Confused. From below the corrugated arête, hand traverse into the cave and on to an overhung slab. Climb the slab rightwards to a ledge in the cave. From this ledge, if you are short, jump across the zawn to a sloping ledge opposite. If you are tall, step across without difficulty. If, however, you are of average height, beware of finding yourself with a foot in either camp and falling between two stools, ending in the ----. From the sloping ledge, climb directly up for protection then move down and left across the blow hole to climb up through it on its left-hand side.H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).

Biscuit Factory E4 35m
Zawn rt of the boat house zawn. Climb the rt hand side of the overhanging bay. Holds are disposable. Possible no hands rest. A swing out left brings sanity. A classic of the genre.
Twid and Louise Thomas
Louise’s Chimney HVS 35m
Left of the biscuit factory above a blow hole /cave is a rt slanting chimney/ramp. Grovel and climb up the fine feature. Belay on stack at top.
Louise Thomas and Twid

Right Hand Red Walls

Chedi.Knight — Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:31:28 CDT

SEASONAL RESTRICTIONS

Another one of THE crags to climb on at Gogarth, the climbing here is adventurous, and the rock soft and at times unpredictable. It is however tamable by the mid extreme grade climber. We have to wait until the glorious 1st August to climb here, due to seasonally nesting sea birds.

Approach

The approach to the crag depends on which route you are climbing. A long abseil rope (80m+) helps greatly. For the first route that start of the left abseil to the fin that seperates left hand and right hand red walls. For the route that start around wendigo/Right Hand Red Wall there is a block that you can arrange a long abseil off towards the centre of the face, where it is possible with a long rope to descend straight to the bottom of the wall.

***The Missionary- Maze link-up 225m E4 (R) (1978/1970/2007?) A link-up of the two ‘Red Wall’ girdles provides a superb Gogarth Adventure. Nowhere are the difficulties excessive, but thoughtful route finding, care with the rock and diligence in seeking protection are pre-requisites to a successful outcome. All members of the party should be experienced at this grade on the Red Walls. All belays are good. Best left for a quiet day! Start from the ‘col’ at the left-hand end of the Left Hand Red Wall, reached by a short abseil from a huge spike in the slope above the left-hand arête. Nut and spike belay.
1 30m. 5b. From the ‘col’, traverse right passing large spikes until a step up gains a ledge line. Follow this then step down to cross a rib. Ascend slightly, crossing Cannibal, then continue rightwards across poor rock. Move right and up to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall.
2 28m 5c. Traverse right, to a step down to gain a good spike. Move right (crux) and descend the groove of Heart of Gold (well-protected). From its base, ascend diagonally rightwards past the Super Calabrese belay peg to a protruding ledge. Climb down, and then go right to gain a large layback flake (Pagan). Follow this to a hanging stance at its top.
3 35m 5b. Follow the obvious horizontal crack line, which leads into Anarchist at a large detached flake. Continue up Anarchist (the juggy crack line) to belay on a large ledge (on Red Wall Escape Route ramp) close to a large grey spike against the cliff.
4 30m 5c. climb the wall boldly above the grey pinnacle to a horizontal break, then move right, and go up to a sandy ledge. Move up right to the arête, and then continue right for 6m to good cracks, and a peg. Climb down for 3m, peg, and then across the wall reach a sharp downward pointing overhang/fang (recognisable by a small inverted V notch in its lip). Layback around this to gain a good ledge in the groove of Television Route. Small wires and small cam (F 1/2) required for the belay).
5 12m 5b. Climb down to good small ledges, then continue down for 2m, and step right to a corner (Redshift). Climb this, and move out right onto a sloping ledge, Wendigo, pitch 3 belay.
6 30m 5c. Traverse right to a small ledge. Move round the corner and onto a ledge on Red Haze. Go down the obvious broken grey ramp just right for 6m, until it is possible to gain the sandy white chimney/fault line (rapture of the Deep). Move up slightly then right to gain a similar fault line (Red Wall final pitch). Descend this for 4m to its belay (a white sandy alcove with several ancient pegs).
7 30m 5b. Climb across the wall until it is possible, at 3m, to pass a small protruding nose. Move right onto the fine red wall to gain a good flake (Fantasia). Climb this, then trend diagonally rightwards making exiting moves using jugs on the lip of a small roof to gain another white sandy chimney/fault line (Communication Breakdown). Climb down this (or the more solid, ramp immediately right) for 10m to a good ledge on A Brown Study.
8 30m 5b. Move right then up to gain sloping, red ledges. When these end, head diagonally rightwards past sandy rock to reach a short red wall. Climb this, then head up and rightwards to reach a natural thread where the slab meets the wall. Pull over here, and head easily, but carefully to the top. Belay from a low flat boulder and with a braced sitting down stance against the path edge! Link done (alts) 28/08/07 Mike Waters, Graham Hoey

**The Electrification of the Soviet Union 43m E4 6a (R) (1986)
A good route with some hard climbing on the superb compact golden wall. Start from the right side of the large sloping ledge, by two loose spikes. Ascend to a peg, then go up and left into an alcove. Traverse six metres left to a small ledge, which is horribly close to the ground. Originally, this point was gained from the left, The Cree (1978). Steep moves, in a rightwards diagonal line, lead to a very good finger-slot. A hard move up gains better holds and a rest in a horizontal break. Wander up more easily to a loose finish.

Steve Haston and ?

*Roger Melly… 40m (R) (1993)
Start as for The Electrification of the Soviet Union and climb up to beneath a roof. A hard pull gains a line of hold leading up to join Television Route. At the bolts and pegs, follow the break up and left to finish out at a sandy recess.

Twid and ?

**Television Route 40m E4 5c (R) (1966/1978)
Once a sacrilege, but now a fine free route. Start at the spike belay mentioned for previous route and climb leftwards to gain the main groove line which contains much rusting scrap metal. Go up and over the bulge on loose rock, and trend left to many pegs where the rock improves. Traverse right into a groove under an overhang. Follow this groove, via two overlaps, to a small ledge on the right. The left-hand groove above the traverse, with tempting pegs etc., has been climbed at the same grade. Climb the short wall, and finish up a groove, past the last of the scrap iron.
FFA Jim Moran, B Winteringham, P Williams, Al Evans 13/8/78

Variations:

*Safer Start? 45m E3 5c (R) (1978)
This avoids the loose and scary start to Television Route (or maybe not, see comments). Start as for The Electrification of the Soviet Union. Go up to the peg, pass it on the left, until it is possible to move right to a sandy area below an overlap. Traverse right below the overlap to join, and finish, as for Television Route.

**Khmer Rouge 43m E5 6a (R) (1978)
Start from the belay of Television Route or Redshift. Climb up past a peg runner into a bottomless groove. A peg at its top does not, unfortunately, seem to protect the moves up right to a ledge on the arête. Go back left into grooves and ascend a little wall to join Television Route at two pegs. Finish as for Television Route.

Jim Moran and ?

* Blood Baath 43m E4/5 6a (R) (2005)
Start from the block belay as for Redshift pitch 2. Start as for Redshift but continue to the overhang, peg. Reach up and out left to a short handcrack, cam 3.5. Follow the crack and climb more or less directly to the capping headwall, climb this moving rightwards to finish at the arete. Fragile rock on headwall
C Parkin, D J Holmes 28/1/05.

**Redshift 86m E3 (R) (1976)
A demanding route, especially on pitch 2, which has a sustained urgency about it. Start from the end of the second abseil, on the lowest ledge, in the corner on the right.
1 37m. 5b. Climb up slabby rock to leftward-trending cracks. Follow these, then bear right and go up to ledges and a huge block belay.
2 37m. 5c. Climb up above the belay, passing a thread runner and then move up and rightwards to a block level with the base of the grove. From here perplexing moves lead up and leftwards into the groove above the belay. (Blood Baath climbs direct to the start of this groove). This leads to a ledge on the left. Go back up right onto the larger ledge, and belay, as for Wendigo or better still continue up the third pitch.
3 12m. 4c. Move left into the continuation groove, which leads to the top.
Pat Littlejohn, H Clarke 8/5/76

Variation:

Dangerous Liaison (R)
The obvious line three metres right of Redshift pitch 2. Start from the block belay at the top of pitch 1 of Redshift.
2a 20m. 6a. Climb up and right passing a peg where a difficult sequence right allows better holds to be reached. Continue in a fine position overlooking the fault line of Wendigo to join it midway up pitch 2 (possible hanging belay on right). Finish up Wendigo or Redshift.

Bottom of the Pile 30m E2 5c (R) (1998)
Start at a ledge, just above sea level, left of the cove mouth. Climb the rightward slanting corner groove to a flake crack continuing rightwards. Gain the top of the flake and stand up by an inelegant and tenuous move. Climb up above and move rightwards around the blunt arête to a blocky slab. Continue diagonally right then up a dirty corner to belay on spikes at the foot of Wendigo.

*Red Wall Escape Route 116m Very Severe (R) (1966)
A poor route, but a very useful plan B. Start from block belays on the right side of the wall.
1 20m. 4c. As for Wendigo, pitch 1.
2 30m. 4b. Start as for Wendigo, then climb the diagonal break leftwards, heading for the sloping ledge at the start of Television Route. Block belays exist, a couple of metres farther along.
3 6m. Walk left to a belay on the ramp.
4 45m. 4b. Climb the slabby, and grassy, ramp to the foot of a slab.
5 15m. 4a. The slab leads easily to the top.

***Wendigo 80m E2 (R) (1966)
One of the best and most obvious lines on Red Wall, following the central continuous break, above the start to Red Wall Escape Route. The top half of the route is easily identified by some slim, right facing corners, containing sloping ledges. Start at the block belay, as for Red Wall Escape Route, gained from an abseil off the promontory. This point can be traversed to from the right.
1 20m. 4c. Enter the sand above and follow the easiest line of huge crisp holds to a sloping ledge.
2 50m. 5b. Climb the obvious leftward-trending break above, to a shallow depression where a corner starts to form, possible belay. Continue on up, passing two sloping ledges to a third sloping ledge on the left at the base of the top corner. 3 10m. 4b. Step back right into the 'feature' and carefully stumble to the top.
FA Joe Brown, Tony Moulam 6/9/66

**Blue Remembered Hills 73m E3 (R) (1980)
A good route, taking the wall between the obvious weaknesses. Start from the ledge five metres up pitch 1 of Red Wall.
1 45m. 5c. Go up for a little way before gaining a groove on the left. From the top of this groove, move left and climb the wall to a large flake, peg. Continue until forced to join Wendigo, then follow this to the sloping ledge. Poor belay (cam 3 useful).
2 28m. 5c. Climb rightwards passing a downward pointing flake, and swing into a hanging groove which is taken to join Red Haze at a sloping ledge, peg on the right. Using hanging flakes, gain the groove above (or climb the wall as for Red Haze). From the top of the groove (loose rock abundant) continue dangerously more or less directly to the top of the crag.
Gordon Tinnings, Paul Trower (first pitch with Dave Parker), 1/8/80

**Red Haze 70m E4 (R) (1969)
The next weakness right has a well defined quartz filled break on the first pitch, followed by more committing terrain above. Start a little further right along the blocky ledge.
1 25m. 5a. From the left-hand end of the stance, move left into a shallow right-facing corner. Move right across the steep wall, and gain, then follow, a diagonal quartz break over two small bulges, to a recess. Here, a bolt belay can be backed up by a loose spike.
2 45m. 5c. From the loose spike move left, then ascend the steep wall, peg, until insecure moves lead left to a groove. Go up this to a sloping ledge, peg, then ascend the wall above direct to gain a groove, peg. After a few metres move rightwards to gain and finish up a shallow chimney.

***Rapture of the Deep 70m E3 (R) (1978)
A very fine main pitch, taking a direct line in the centre of the cliff, though only for the soft rock addict. Start as for the previous route.
1 25m. 5a. As for Red Haze, pitch 1.
2 45m. 5b. Follow the obvious sandy chimney, slightly to the right of the belay, passing two pegs.
Joe Brown, Ben and Marion Winteringham. 13/9/78

***Red Wall 77m E2 (R) (1966)
A guaranteed crowd pleaser! Another route that looks terrifying, but which is far more attractive on closer inspection (if you like this sort of thing). Probably E1 if you're in the right mood. Start from the ledge, below the main weakness.
1 34m. 4c. Move left and climb up onto a ledge. Climb up a couple of moves then traverse right to an obvious quarts flake. Bare left then right up a steep corner to pull onto the stance. A 'devil may care attitude' is suggested.

2 23m. 5b. A soft touch, but it just keeps on coming, and you can never be sure if those holds will stay where they're supposed to! At least you know that the belay is solid. Follow the diagonal line leftwards, climb up to a peg, then cross the steep wall leftwards with some temerity to a shallow chimney. Peg belays.
3 20m. 4c. Pure Red Wall class! Jug pulling above a fearsome amphitheatre with an 'admiring' crowd stoking your ego from the sidelines. Can it get any better than this? Climb the steep chimney on monster holds, past a peg, and follow the groove above moving right to finish.
Joe Brown, Pete Crew 2/9/66

***Fantasia 79m E3 (R) (1979)
Excellent wall climbing, on solid rock once out of Red Wall. The route has reasonably good protection, and is sustained at an interesting level. Start as for Red Wall.
1 34m. 4c. As for Red Wall, pitch 1.
2 45m. 5c. Follow Red Wall to a move right. Continue rightwards to a sandy cave, and from its right-hand side, peg, move around onto a red wall. Go straight up, then slightly left, passing a peg, before gaining a small hanging groove. From the top of this, bold and technical moves left lead to larger holds.

**A Brown Study 88m E3 (R) (1970)
A meandering route with serious climbing, especially on the first pitch. Start to the right of Red Wall, below the next sandy groove.
1 18m. 5c. Climb the steep groove to a ledge. Continue up the groove to emerge, covered in sand, on a good ledge. Poor belay.
2 40m. 5c. Climb rightwards and go up a corner, peg, before moving leftwards through shattered rock to a sandy ledge on the left (this is the sandy cave of Fantasia), peg. A horizontal traverse rightwards through a solid area of rock leads to an inverted V-overhang. Construct a belay at a good ledge just left of the curving fault-line of Communication Breakdown.
3 30m. 5b. Climb up for a couple of metres, then traverse six metres right to a groove. Ascend this and the corner above to a slab, which leads to the top.

The Tiger's Den E5

1 18m. 5c. As for A Brown Study, pitch 1.

2 ??m. 5c. Traverse the ledge rightwards and go right to a corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge and traverse 8 metres right to its end and belay.

3 ??m. 6a. Drop down a metre and traverse right (loose) to a hanging red wall. Climb this, under a line of overhangs until a hard move brings you out on a slab. Top out, boulder belay.

M.Turner, K.Goodey. (19/9/91).

**Communication Breakdown 75m E3 (R) (1978)
This is exciting stuff, exploring the obvious curving chimney on the right side of the wall. Start as for A Brown Study.
1 30m. 5c. Follow A Brown Study to the peg in the corner on pitch 2. Move out right from the corner and cross a compact wall to belay on a nice grassy ledge below a chimney fault-line.
2 45m. 5b. Climb the curving chimney, passing an awkward section near the top.

**Doppelgangen 104m E3 (R) (1966/1978) A good adventure, exploring the forgotten walls high on the right side of the crag. Start as for Red Wall.
1 34m. 4c. As for Red Wall pitch 1.
2 18m. 5b. Traverse up right and cross a steep wall, heading for a peg on the right of the chimney that A Brown Study encounters. A tricky descending traverse leads to a grassy ledge.
3 15m. 5b. Walk out right, then move up until a traverse right gains a stance at the base of a short corner.
4 37m. 5b. Climb the corner, ledge on the right, then continue up through broken rock, keeping to the left, until forced right onto a slab, and the top.

Fire and Grimstone 20m E5 5c

A.Wainright, J.Harrison. (on-sight) 5/9/96

***The Maze 147m E5 (R) (1970)
Start five metres below the top of the ramp of the escape route.
1, 2 & 3 as for the existing guide.
4. 30m 5c. Difficult route finding and sustained. Aim for a grassy ledge down and right of the belay on left hand red wall below an inpending corner and a series of ledges. Extremely poor belay.
5. 45m 5c. Climb up and right following the higher of the ledges. Very poor rock and gear lead to an overhanging wall and corner. Climb the corner until a steep pull right and the slab. Continue direct to the top.

Ed Drummond?
See the full girdle link-up description above for better description and an alternative description of last two pitches (I think they got lost!, the original pitch 4 description is just about spot on- graham hoey)

Left Hand Red Walls

Chedi.Knight — Wed, 13 Aug 2008 17:09:57 CDT

rightwardsSEASONAL RESTRICTIONS

This venue is subject to a seasonal restriction due to nesting birds from the 1st February to the 31st July. The following day is known locally as 'The glorious first'. Breaking this ban will seriously affect access to the entire area. For more details visit THE BMC REGIONAL ACCESS DATABASE.

LH Red Wall Photo Topo

Vena Cava 21m Very Severe 4c (R)
Really only an escape, but pleasant all the same. Start left of the arête. Follow the left-hand side of the arête, then step left to finish up a slight corner.

BSB E1 R

The left hand wall escape route start at the peak of promontory.

Paul Barbier &Ian McNeill 1991

***The Missionary- Maze link-up 225m E4 (R) (1978/1970/2007?) A link-up of the two ‘Red Wall’ girdles provides a superb Gogarth Adventure. Nowhere are the difficulties excessive, but thoughtful route finding, care with the rock and diligence in seeking protection are pre-requisites to a successful outcome. All members of the party should be experienced at this grade on the Red Walls. All belays are good. Best left for a quiet day! Start from the ‘col’ at the left-hand end of the Left Hand Red Wall, reached by a short abseil from a huge spike in the slope above the left-hand arête. Nut and spike belay.
1 30m. 5b. From the ‘col’, traverse right passing large spikes until a step up gains a ledge line. Follow this then step down to cross a rib. Ascend slightly, crossing Cannibal, then continue rightwards across poor rock. Move right and up to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall. 2 28m 5c. Traverse right, to a step down to gain a good spike. Move right (crux) and descend the groove of Heart of Gold (well-protected). From its base, ascend diagonally rightwards past the Super Calabrese belay peg to a protruding ledge. Climb down, and then go right to gain a large layback flake (Pagan). Follow this to a hanging stance at its top.
3 35m 5b. Follow the obvious horizontal crack line, which leads into Anarchist at a large detached flake. Continue up Anarchist (the juggy crack line) to belay on a large ledge (on Red Wall Escape Route ramp) close to a large grey spike against the cliff.
4 30m 5c. climb the wall boldly above the grey pinnacle to a horizontal break, then move right, and go up to a sandy ledge. Move up right to the arête, and then continue right for 6m to good cracks, and a peg. Climb down for 3m, peg, and then across the wall reach a sharp downward pointing overhang/fang (recognisable by a small inverted V notch in its lip). Layback around this to gain a good ledge in the groove of Television Route. Small wires and small cam (F 1/2) required for the belay). 5 12m 5b. Climb down to good small ledges, then continue down for 2m, and step right to a corner (Redshift). Climb this, and move out right onto a sloping ledge, Wendigo, pitch 3 belay. 6 30m 5c. Traverse right to a small ledge. Move round the corner and onto a ledge on Red Haze. Go down the obvious broken grey ramp just right for 6m, until it is possible to gain the sandy white chimney/fault line (rapture of the Deep). Move up slightly then right to gain a similar fault line (Red Wall final pitch). Descend this for 4m to its belay (a white sandy alcove with several ancient pegs).
7 30m 5b. Climb across the wall until it is possible, at 3m, to pass a small protruding nose. Move right onto the fine red wall to gain a good flake (Fantasia). Climb this, then trend diagonally rightwards making exiting moves using jugs on the lip of a small roof to gain another white sandy chimney/fault line (Communication Breakdown). Climb down this (or the more solid, ramp immediately right) for 10m to a good ledge on A Brown Study. 8 30m 5b. Move right then up to gain sloping, red ledges. When these end, head diagonally rightwards past sandy rock to reach a short red wall. Climb this, then head up and rightwards to reach a natural thread where the slab meets the wall. Pull over here, and head easily, but carefully to the top. Belay from a low flat boulder and with a braced sitting down stance against the path edge! Link done (alts) 28/08/07 Mike Waters, Graham Hoey

Auricle 109mHVS R

Alt Finish

Ceefax 55m HVS R

*Alligator 40m E1 5b (R) (1978)
Fairly serious, and a good introduction to this type of climbing, starting at the foot of a prominent crack, at the top of the grassy ramp, about halfway between the top pitch of Auricle, and Left Hand Red Wall. Climb the corner, poor peg, to a ledge below an overlap. Move left, ascend a shallow groove past a peg, and trend slightly right on large loose holds to a deep break. Finish up the difficult crack, three metres right of the Auricle Alternative Finish.
FA Al Evans, P Williams, Jim Moran, B Winteringham 6/8/78

Cannibal E4 5c 44m R

Not so much of a man eater now but still a bold and frightening proposition. Start at the corner, near aprominent crack at the top of the grassy ramp. A bold traverse out right leads to a peg of sorts just above an overhang, continue round into a loose groove with some uninspiring spikes, continue up and exit out left onto more solid wall, where a peg resides, it is possible to assess the pegs condition, as you can easily see it all in the placement! Shake up the wall to reach the safety of the break, traversing left and right to arrange as much gear as possible. The line lies up the bubbly wall above to an obscured left facing groove. Climb this to belly flop over the top with much relief.

FA J.Moran,A.Evans, P.Williams B.Wintringham,6/8/78

Variations:

Cannibal Direct Start R E5 6a
Gain the peg direct up the through the rotten overlap.

T.Hodgson, P.Pritchard, 11/10/86

Cannibal Direct Finish 45m E5 5c R

From the final break, step right and climb straight up between Schittlegruber and Cannibal.

M.Pointon. (1993)

Cannibal with the Schittlegruber Gibbers finish E4 5c R

From the break shuffle right to the large left facing corner of schittlegruber, climb this to where schittlegruber swings out right at the roof, and wobble out left avoiding the difficulty, but with extra rope drag.

***Schittlegruber 56m E5 (R)
A very fine route, with a serious first pitch and strenuous top pitch. Start eight metres up left from Left-Hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1 28m. 5c. Climb the vegetated groove to join Left-Hand Red Wall at the small roof. Swing immediately left to a hollow flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-Hand Red Wall belay. Traverse right to belay.
2 28m. 6b. Go diagonally up left to an overlap, and climb strenuously on good rock to a ledge on the left, below a huge groove. Ascend the groove, in a wild position, to swing right at its end. Finish up the hairy wall.

P.Pritchard, N Harms 16/8/86

**Left-Hand Red Wall 62m E3 (R) (1967)
Two good contrasting pitches: the first, being serious on poor rock, followed by a more technical compact second pitch. Start by a shallow groove, a few meters above the main slanting overlap on this side of the wall.
1 25m. 5c. Ascend the groove on the left, to the roof, then go right onto a slab, and move into a shallow rounded groove. A hard section leads to a belay on a good ledge.
2 37m. 5c. Step right, and climb a flake crack to a small ledge. Traverse right, peg, into a shallow niche, climb a diagonal crack above, then go straight up the wall to the top.

Joe Brown, Pete Crew (alts) 11/6/67

Ramalina E6 R

1. Climb Left Hand Red Wall to belay.

2.20m 6b. Follow Left Hand Red Wall to a peg and from the ledge, climb straight up passing a pocket at 10m. A hard move over a bulge leads to a rest. Carry on to the top with out much gear. High in the grade and possibly E7 if approached via Heart of Gold Direct.

Twid and Kath Goodey (15/9/91). Top pitch totally on sight.(subsequent ascents found more gear on top wall involving abseil! )

The Heart of Gold Direct-Ramalina Connection climbed by G. Farquhar and W. Young, on-sight,1997. Second ascent of this combo by N.Bullock.

Howl the Trowel E7 6c 23m R
Start from the Left Hand Red Wall second belay.
Climb the wall left of Mein Kampf. Climb up towards the peg and make a hard move up a smooth wall to another peg. Committing moves up thin holds eventually lead to the top and cakes.
Twid and Al George,1991. Named after a trowel made by Al George and a very much howling Paul Jenkins after a night listening to the Dukes

**Mein Kampf 46m E5 (R) (1979)
Another loose and dirty start is followed by tricky, more solid climbing. Start as for Left Hand Red Wall.
1 23m. 5c. Climb up, as for Left Hand Red Wall, until a foot-traverse, on a flake about five metres up, leads rightwards into a depression of white (eek!) rock. Move right into a groove, and climb it to until a step left gains the belay of Left Hand Red Wall.
2 23m. 6a. Climb a flake crack, as for Left Hand Red Wall, then move left onto a small ledge. Go up and over a small overlap, twin stainless steel pegs, then climb left and go up on layaways, easing towards the top.

Jim Moran, D (smiler) Cuthbertson, P Williams.25/8/79

Variations:

Mein Kampf DirectE5 6a 23m R

2a.This pitch can be climbed direct up the wall from the belay to the overlap. A little bolder, but still the same grade. Paul Pritchard. (1986).

Mein Shaft E6 6b 23m R

2a. 23m. Follow Mein Kampf Direct to the twin stainless steel pegs. Climb directly up the hairy wall above, crux, between Mein Kampf and Ramalina.

Grant Farquhar, Wills Young (on-sight). (2/10/97).

Heart of Gold *** E5 R
Whatta route! The main pitch blasts up the middle of left-hand red wall in magnificent positions. The hors d’oeuvres is no push-over. Start two-thirds of the way down the grassy ramp (40m abseil), an obvious tottering Talc and Quartz groove marks the line of Left Hand Red Wall.
1. 6a. 17m. Up Left Hand Red Wall for 3m then head out rightwards from a rattley flake to reach protection. Make committing moves right, then right and up to a small ledge. With ingenuity, a good belay can be constructed hanging below the ledge.
2. 6a. 40m. Go up to an overlap, good large wire, crimp (technical crux) to a stopping place then sprint directly to a small spike. (Heart of Gold Original traverses right from the stopping place to the base of a left leaning groove and climbs this, good rest, to the small spike. Less logical and no easier). Move left to a larger spike and good rest. Enjoy the view! Gain and follow a crack up and rightwards to a small ledge then move up to a niche where LH Red Wall joins from the left. Up this, trending rightwards, to the top.
FA Mick Fowler and ........(1978). Direct: Paul Prichard (1986)

Speed record on this pitch must be Noel (5 hours). He also took a 40 footer when he pulled a TV sized block off.

The Super Calabrese E6 R

The original first pitch looks about E6 but it may well be tough, it is unrepeated in it's current state and looks completely crap; much better to do the Super-Duper start which makes the route a brilliant outing.

1.17m.6b. Start just down the rake from Heart of Gold underneath a seeping roof. Traverse horizontally rightwards a little way under the roof to a birdy shelf. Clip the crap peg above and then pull through the roof to gain a groove. Climb the groove trending rightwards to the Heart of Gold belay.
2.15m.6a. Follow a thin seam up and rightwards with increasing difficulty to the original belay of The Enchanted Broccoli Garden.

3.40m.6a."The Astro-Turf pitch". Move left wards from the belay to good kit in a shallow groove. Exit this slightly rightwards then climb straight up the golden wall on pockets to enter a large scoop from the right. Exit this leftwards and continue up rubble to the top.

P.Pritchard and ?, 1987 (over three separate days)

Second ascent by Twid and ?,

The Super-Duper Calabrese *** E6 R

This is a essentially a wild variation on pitch one that looks far better than the original and should open up the whole route to get the attention it deserves.
1.17m.6b. Start just left of the original and pull through the roof rightwards to gain a juggy flake, arrange bomber protection then traverse wildly above the lip of the roof on huge holds until a powerful sequence leads up into the groove of the original route, this can then be followed to the top.

N.Dickson and J.McHaffie 25/8/07 (Ground up with two falls as quartz holds broke, whats left is now solid)

The Enchanted Broccoli Garden E6 *** R

An epic outing through some amazing territory. Start from the vegetated ramp beneath the wall, reached by abseil. An obvious feature on the wall is a horizontal break which cuts across rightwards from the ramp. Heart of Gold pitch 1 traverses above this and The Super pitch 1 traverses below it. Start down and right off the ramp beneath a ridiculously impregnable looking overhanging wall.

1.40m.6b. This pitch features some soft rock but is solid in the grade. From the ramp traverse in rightwards to a spike/pinnacle feature in the centre of the wall. Arrange protection here. Continue directly on good but sandy holds to enter a small groove. Climb this to a no-hands rest on a ledge in the horizontal break beneath an overhang. There is good but awkward to arrange protection over the lip. Surmount the overhang and continue up the steep wall above past some small wires to an impasse. Make some tricky moves past the difficulties to easier but still pumpy ground above. Fight through this fairly hostile environment to easier ground onThe Missionary. There is now a choice of belays. The original "non" belay involves traversing left to a good spike with peg runner above. The first ascentionists belayed off the peg and standing on the spike which may be more stylish but less safe than belayed hanging off the spike and equalised to the peg and other runners nearby. Alternatively continue directly to gain a square cut ledge (10 feet up the original second pitch) which provides a bomb-proof belay.

2.40m.6b. From the square cut ledge, climb directly up on the vertical wall just left of a shallow groove. Bold, thin and tricky moves lead to a good jug. More bold, thin and tricky moves lead to easier ground. Continue directly to the top. Proceed directly to the pub and get pissed.

P.Pritchard and Moose Thomas, 1986.

Has had numerous on-sight repeats.

***Pagan 92m E4 (R) (1973)
A real adventure!! A series of taxing pitches make this one of the best wall climbs at Gogarth. Mentally challenging with intricate route finding on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Start about 25 metres above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21m. 5b. Traverse diagonally right on reasonably solid holds to a sandy groove and ledge beyond. New and old peg in sandy groove. Climb awkwardly up into the obvious dusty slanting chimney passing an old rusty RURP, then pull steeply right on good holds to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts, backed up by an essential 3.5 friend.
2 28m. 5c. Climb up trending slightly right for three metres on dubious holds passing an ancient jammed nut (as for Deygo). Move leftwards along a grotty break to gain a standing position on a protruding ledge - good gear. Climb up following aright trending diagonal weakness. After 10 meters, pull steeply left over a small overlap to a ledge then follow the obvious vegetated ramp right to its top and a hanging belay on a large flake and spike.
3 43m. 5c. Move right, level with the belay, along a ledge until it just about stops. Climb a depression, passing an ancient jammed nut to a sloping ledge. Traverse 10m left (dropping down a little, then moving back up) on great rock to a obvious good nut slot (7 or 8 rock). Move up and trend boldly rightwards into a shallow depression below an obvious rubbly break. Attain the lip of the break and hand traverse rightwards until it is possible to climb into the break. Follow the break up rightwards to a final mud/grass/rock finish. Breath out and imagine what the route must have been like in 1973 without cams!
Pat Littlejohn 1973

**Salem 83m E4 (R) (1987)
A nice eliminate, filling a gap on the wall. Start as for Pagan, about 25 metres above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21 m. 5b. As for Pagan, pitch 1. Traverse right to a small ledge, and continue right to gain an obvious dusty slanting chimney. Ascend this, on the right side, to a RURP, and pull steeply right to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts (backed up by cams).
2 28m. 5c. Follow Deygo for ten metres to the square-cut ledge, and break out left on a handrail. Go up a pleasant wall to a short left-facing groove. Ascend this then step left to belay on spikes, as for Pagan or belay on the RHS of the ledge (friend 2 1/2).
3 34m. 6a. Follow Pagan to the sloping ledge until moves right and up gain a ledge, hidden peg (missing 15-Sep-07). Make a difficult move into the short hanging groove above ( easier from the left) , and follow it to finish.

Named after the famous painting by Vosper

Paul Pritchard and Piggy Johnstone, 1986

***Deygo 102m E3 (R) (1968/1973)
A very good route, with its fair share of serious and strenuous climbing, following the most striking line of weakness, slanting rightwards up the full height of the wall. Start about 25m above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21 m. 5b. As for Pagan, pitch 1. Traverse right to a small ledge, and continue right to gain an obvious dusty slanting chimney. Ascend this, on the right side, to a RURP, and pull steeply right to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts (backed up by cams).
2 21 m. 5b. Step right and climb the shallow chimney, moving left over a slight bulge to a peg. Carry on up the up the shattered crack to a square-cut ledge, then step right to a peg in a groove. Climb the groove to a small stance on easier ground.
3 35m. 5c. Climb up above the belay for three metres to a peg where the angle eases slightly. Follow the striking crack, past a few more pegs, to a belay on a sloping ramp, Red Wall Escape Route. (Doesn't the original line traverse right out of the diagonal crack short of the top where it is joined by Anarchist? The description here sounds like Infidel which follows the "striking crack" in its upper reaches I think)
[The 1977 Alec Sharp guide clearly shows a traverse right to the area of Anarchist (Not done at the time obviously) Ther used to be a metal "horn" that you could lasoo for protection - I couldn't see it on my last visit to the area.]
4 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
FA Tom Proctor and Geoff Birtles April/68 FFA?Ron Fawcett, J Hesletine

Yarding Lard 100m E6

Start at the bottom of the zawn, about 7 metres left of Come to Mother.

1 40m. 6b. Step across the void and climb straight up to two pegs. Launch over the roof and up the crack above. Move left into Pagan just below the obvious white ledge. Step off the right hand end and climb the sand pit to the Pagan stance.

2 30m. 6a. Follow the sandy break out right to the obvious sandy cave. Step right and climb the pocketed red wall, with good gear, to the Infidel belay.

335m. 5c. Climb straight up to the horn (now gone) and move above to a hand jamming crack, left of Anarchist.

M.Turner, Steve Hartland. (8/95).

Come to Mother

Has fallen down.

The next routes are accessed from The Promontory

**Infidel 80m E3 (R) (1978)
This route gains the main diagonal line of Deygo by a nice pitch on the right. Descend grass on the promontory to where it gets frightening, 10 metres above where the ramp drops away (a long abseil rope is useful to belay on).
1 25m. 5b. Climb diagonally left, on poor rock, and move up to two pegs. Go up and left to large holds, then follow them to the obvious groove and a belay on a small ledge.
2 40m. 5c. Step up and left into Deygo, peg, and follow it ?? to belay on Red Wall Escape route. (See Deygo)
3 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.

Variation

Infidel Direct

*Outside the Asylum 50m E5 (R) (1988)
Surprisingly independent with good protection. Sustained and with intricate route finding - a superb pitch. Start at a pinnacle on the ramp, between Infidel and Anarchist.
1 30m. 6a. Climb carefully onto the pinnacle, and step left to a ledge. Move up and left around a steep rib, past a slot, and go up to a peg. Climb the wall direct for ten metres to a small ledge. Go rightwards to join Anarchist at the detached flake and follow this to belay on the ramp of Red Wall Escape route.
2 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.

Care in the Community 30m E5 6a

G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/10/95)

*Anarchist 57m E1 (R) (1978)
Slight, but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil.
1 37m. 5b. Traverse left to a series of grooves and ledges. Climb these to a detached flake, the top of which can be gained by a semi-mantle move (the s/s peg here is obvious from the promontary). Climb up to a small overlap and traverse right into a niche (crux). Follow the steep crack above to a good ledge on Red Wall Escape Route.
2 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.

Variations:

Direct Start E3 (R) (1989)
1a 40m. 6a. Starting up Outside the Asylum, follow a corner straight up into Anarchist. May share some common ground with Care in the Community?

M.Turner, A.George(1989)

Variation Finish 50m. E2 (R) (1987)
1b 50m. 5c. Just because you can! Follow Anarchist until it is possible to traverse across into Deygo. Climb Deygo for five metres then follow a traverse line left to ledges farther left. Climb the pillar to belay as the rope runs out!

***The Missionary 92m E4 (R) (1978)
A really worthwhile girdle, for its fantastic positions and tremendous exposure. Start as for Anarchist.
1 34m. 5c. Follow Anarchist to a horizontal crack, which leads left to the hanging stance on Pagan, pitch 2.
2 28m. 5c. Descend the layback flake on Pagan, then go left and up to a protruding ledge, level with the stance. A diagonal descent leftwards leads to a shallow groove on Heart of Gold. Climb this to a spike, step down left, and continue traversing to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall.
3 30m. 5b. Step down from the stance, and move left onto poor rock. Continue leftwards, across Cannibal, descending slightly until it is possible to cross a rib, and move up to a ledge line. Follow this, then step down and continue the traverse, passing large spikes, to finish up the left arête of the wall.

See above for description of this route left to right as part of the full girdle of the two red walls.

Girdle

The Promontory

Puritan

Atheist
Three men and a cake
Heathen
The Cruel Seam

*This is the Sea 45m E5 (R) (1987)
Start below the obvious central crackline, right of Heathen.
1 37m. 6a. Start the crack via the bulging wall, and continue in the same line to the first overlap. Go over this leftwards to a good foothold. Continue up the cracked wall, two pegs, to beneath the top overhang, poor peg. Go over the overhang, taking care with the rock, to better holds, and a poor belay in the crack.
2 8m. Work rightwards on grass to the arête, and go up to belay on top of the promontory.

*The Featherstone 45m E5 6b (R) (1988)
Start six metres right of the previous route, and climb the obvious leftward slanting crack, on good locks, to a prominent projection in the roof. Pull over the roof, then move up and left, with difficulty, to join This is The Sea. Finish up this on poor rock.

Red Warbler's 27m E4 6a

The continuation groove, as it were, in the south face of the promontory. Scramble round from the abseil. Swarm up the groove after a hard first move. Protection is every whimps dream.

G.Smith, J.Toombs, D.Holms, A.Wainwright, R.Kay, N.Dixon.(1st August 1996)

Into the Light
Snatch in the storm

Graded List

Chedi.Knight — Thu, 24 Jul 2008 12:15:47 CDT

Please only vote on the following grades if you have done the route!
Feel free to add your own polls using the widget feature, (may not work on a mac)

Before upgrading everything, please bear in mind that climbing is difficult and the current trend of many new guides to introduce 'grade drift' will be of no help to anyone once Britain is full of fat people thinking they can on-sight E8, when actually burger eating foreigners will have our pants down. Nobody said it was gonna be easy!

Other routes that may benefit from a poll are below. Please add to this list or get poll making.

Aardvark E2/3
Khmer Rouge E4/5
Pagan E3/4
Deygo E3/4
Obelisk E 5 / 6
Broad Church E6 / 7
Hardback E7 / 8
Hollow Man E7 / 8
Alien E5/E6
Conan the Librarian E6/E7
Blackleg E5/E6
Barbarossa E6/E7
Flower of Evil E6/7
Stroke of the Fiend E6/7
Treacherous Underfoot E6/7
Citadel E4/5
Dinosaur E4/5
Kalahari E3/2

Hopefully this will give concensus grades! Maybe ;-)

Please mark unrepeated routes with a *
This list is looking a bit top heavy so get adding routes:

E9

Chicama *

Extinction

Vital Statistix*

Hardback Thesaurus

The Hollow Man

E7
Rock of Ages*
The Mad Brown*
Henious Flytrap*
The Wild Underdog*
Roof Rack*

The Fourth Dimension

Barfly*
The Ultraviolet Exterminator
The Collection Plate

Thug*
Easel-EE
Surreal Appeall
The Bells, The Bells

Pre Cambrian Wrestler*

Follower of Hopeless Causes*

Howl the Trowel*

Sex and Religion

The Yellow Shark*

The Undertaker*

Bats in the Belfry *

Dark Reflections*
The Angle Man*

The Clown

Demon's of Bosch

The Unrideable Donkey

Conan the Librarian Original Finish

Rubble*

Barbarossa

Hang Ten in the Green Room

The Treacherous Underfoot

It's a Broad Church
Tonton's Macoute

Super Calabrese

The Enchanted Brocolli Garden

A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade

Dead and Bloated*

Cruise on Through*

Archie is Angry (think Mr Sellers repeated this - TB)

Psychocandy*

Strike Direct

Ramalina

Mr Softy

Billy Budd

The Porcelain Arena
The Shadowy World of the Nematodes
The Nematode Strikes Out

Conan the Librarian Janitor Finish
The Callipygian Groove

Games Climbers Play Original Start

Skinhead Moonstomp

The Owl and the Pussycat*
Coming on Strong

Food and Drink
Wowan's Wocket
Karaoke Bar
Crack Eats Man Alive!

Live at the Witch Trials

Drunken Without Trace

Arretic Behaviour

Pulling for Two

The Jub Jub Bird

Wet Dreams

Dreams and Screams

Isis is Angry
Beefhoven

Ludwig
Sea Witch
Ermintrude

Angel Dust

The Final Front Ear

Yarding Lard

Mein Shaft

The Big Sleep

For Madmen Only
Don't Cry

Flower of Evil

Stroke of the Fiend

Art Groupie

Mammoth Direct

The Crow Road

Free Stonehenge

The Long Run Direct

The Big Softy*

The Cad

The Drunk

Rosebud

Birth Trauma

Headbutt

Eraserhead

The Boston Struggler

Spider’s Web

Alien
Obelisk
The Red Sofa
The Flying Shed

Evidently Chickentown
Instant Van Gogh
Forgery

Blackleg

Mein Kampf

Schittlegrüber

Heart of Gold

Sign of the Sun Dog

Wall of Fossils
Shine on you Crazy Diamond
The Seven Types of Angularity
El Presidente
Idlevice
The Pipe Dragon
Who Dares Whinge
Seal Song

Dinosaur

Mammoth
Honed on the Range
Death Trap Direct
Catatonia

The Tiger's Den
Fire and Grimstone
A Winter's Tail
Two Fat Slabs
Missing Presumed Dead
The Wrath of Deadly Lampshades
Boil All Irishmen
Lost in Space (?)
The Ragged Runnel
Big Boys

Bigger Girls
Helmet Boiler
Dai You Late

Saltheart
Tsunami
Devil’s Marbles
Sting Ray
Ramadan
Piglet’s Left Boot
The Cruise

The Long Run

The Tet Offensive

Outside the Asylum

Care in the Community

Khmer Rouge

Hunger
The Cow
Walking the Plankton
Attila the Pun

Ordinary Route
Energy Crisis
Afreet Street
The Maze

Run Fast, Run Free

Positron

Warpath

Citadel

Graduation Ceremony

Annihalator

Ormzud
Games Climbers Play DirectStart(?)
Another Roadside Attraction
Sebastapol

Salem
Television Route
Red Haze
High Pressure
Agoraphobia
The Electrification of the Soviet Union
Pagan

20 000 Leagues Under the Sea

Sarah Green Start to Blue Peter

Blue Peter

The Dogs of War

I Wonder Why
Return to Garth Gog
Arachnid
Holyhead Revisted
Dai Lemming
Falls Road
Medicine Man
The Cocktail Trip
The Camel

Bubbly Situation Blues

The Wastelands

Metal Guru/The Golden Bough

Katana
The Emotionary
Fifteen Men on a Dead Man’s Chest
The Horrorshow
Hyde Park
Kira His
Staying Alive
Mondo Hard
Bryngwran Man
Rapture of the Deep

Wonderwall

T-Rex

Supercrack

Strike
The Assassin

This Year's Model

The Sind

The Moon

Perygl
Paddington
Pterodactyl
90 000 Miles
Kalahari

South Sea Bubble
Wendigo (this is never E3)

E2

Primate
Creeping Lemma
Eternal Optimist
Strand
Fail Safe
Talking Heads
Red Wall
UFO
Mousetrap

Resolution Direct
Smurf Girdle

E1

Elf
Fifth Avenue
The Savage
Gogarth
Nice'n Sleazy
Park Lane/Doomsville
Emulator
Sunstroke
Times Square

Hombre

HVS
Gauntlet
Hud
The Ramp
Central Park
Bezel
The Green Slab

VS

Severe

D
Symphony Crack

Porth-Y-Garan

PaulAJames — Sun, 20 Jul 2008 13:16:25 CDT

Porth-Y-Garan is a small lower grade crag between 15 and 20
metres in height, situated about 1.5 miles north of the main cliffs
of Rhoscolyn. See topo section to download a mini-guide for this crag:

http://gogarth.wetpaint.com/page/Photo+topos

Unless specified all routes first climbed by Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.

From Topo plus new routes 20-07-08:

Golden Gate Diff
Scimitar Diff
Va-Va-Vroom VS 4c
From the Ledge climb to the left of the hole, making a bold move over the bulge.
Blast Hole VS 4c
Climb straight up the wall to the right of the hole.

Snappy HVS 4c
1m Right of Blast Hole. Climb the wall direct to the overlap, continue on the same line above.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Central Wall S 4a
Climb the centre of the wall finiahing at a small layback flake.

Didgeridoo S 4a
Climb up the wall past two diagonal pockets to a small overlap.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Double Pocket S 4a
Climb past the double pockets at 1/3 height, then to the overlap and finsih up a thin crack.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Rising Tide S 4a
Follow the obvious rising crack line.

Double Thread VD
Start as for Rising Tide, but take the parrellel cracks above on jugs to the top.
K.M.Bromfield, P.A.James (20/07/08)

Garanteed VD
The left hand crack.
Pickpocket VD
Follow the right hand pocketed crack.
Descent Mod/Diff
Puncture VS 4c
The Overhanging crack, making a committing move to gain the easy upper section.

Spring Tide HVS 5a
2m Right of Puncture. Climb the overhanging crack on good holds with a big reach to the top.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Deep Water Solo

The_Third — Sun, 18 May 2008 09:58:42 CDT

Only a few routes have been Deep Water Soloed at Gogarth, those that have are perhaps the more adventurous and 'Out There' experiences of this genre of climbing. The cream of the crop would appear to be Electric Blue at Rhoscolyn Sea Cave Zawn.

If you have DWS any routes at Gogarth then please add to the list, soloing in the vain hope that you won't fall off doesn't count! Stevie Haston soloed Positron but I think the headwall is a touch high for DWS!

Rhoscolyn

Electric Blue

Round the Horn

Band of Westies

Trearddur Bay

Gogarth
Pentothal first pitch

Wen Zawn
Johnny's attempt at wall right of Rubble. Ended in sea between 2 big boulders
Britomatis (but watch that bloody rock)

Flytrap Area
Johnny's righthand finish to Arachnid

20000 Leagues Under the Sea

Dai Leming (Lola)

God's Bone (see Tsunami Zawn section)

Castell Helen
Jumped (fell?) from half height ledge. Dave Williams. 1976

Blacksmiths zawn
Wowan's Wocket pitch 1. (Reverse ramp off left to get back down or jump)
The Light That Didn't Shine - a classic. Finish up Green LIght and / or out left.

Smurf Zawn - Note a submerged boulder below Nelson Mandela has lead to one climber badly hurting himself - should be ok at high tide?
Free Nelson Mandela Now
King of the Swingers plus Crispin / Twid variations all been soloed

Rhoscolyn Beach
On the left hand side of the bay it is possible to do a number of easy DWS's up to V1(nothing that hard) which are pretty much boulder problems above the sea. The best problems we found were outside the bay with probably the best features being an over hanging wall about ten meters high which at high tide would be perfectly safe and a nice prow feature in a subsequant bay which goes at about V1/V2, at high tide it would also be possible to attempt some larger walls closer to 20M. Though these are not too hard all being just overhanging with plenty of large holds. Worth a day of exploration on a canoe for the low grade climber.
Ewan and Fraser Russell 5/2008