Noddy E4 6b
C Parkin & Frazer Ball climbed including pitch 3 free in 1991 the crux being the traverse right passing the old aid point (Rurp!!) at the time thought this was E46b good gear before traverse but big swing if **** up. Pic of line sent to Al Leary.

Winking Crack 220 feet E3 ***

Takes the striking cracks in the towering wall. Scramble up 30' to a good ledge below a short wall.

1 100' 5b Go up a short easy groove before moving L around the arête (start of The Cruise) to gain the obvious corner on the L. Climb this until a stance and block belay (old tapes in place) can be reached on the L.

2 120' 5c Walk to the left and climb the crack in the corner. Where the crack divides follow the L branch. At a small overhang move L then step back R following cracks to the final offwidth. Layback or thrutch, it's your choice!

J Brown, A Cowburn (6 pts) 1966

Blue Oyster Cult E3

Blind Pew E2

The Emotionary E4

lichenous

Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest 200 feet E4 *

Good climbing up pockets on the first pitch but a friable and serious second pitch. Scramble up to a ledge L of a short wall split by a crack, R of a corner.

1 80' 6a Move boldly L around the arête and go up to the first line of pockets. Continue in the same line with increasing difficulty until it is possible to move R to a ledge and pinnacle belay.

2 80' 5c From the top of the pinnacle climb the flaky crack until scary moves up and slightly R lead to a ledge.

3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.

M A Boysen, D E Alcock, D Jones (2 pts). FFA Unknown 1981.

The Horrorshow 200 feet E4 *

The excellent first pitch offers sustained, well protected climbing. Start with a 30' 4a scramble up a groove taking a belay beneath a corner (Crowbar).

1 80' 6a Climb the short crack in the R wall, then up R to a PR. Trend back L to another PR in the depths of a pocket. Follow the faint crackline to a PR high on the R, before a tricky move L gains a good hold above. Traverse R until moves up and R lead to a junction with Fifteen Men etc. in a corner on a sloping ledge.

2 80' 5b Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle/flake, PR. Follow the flaky crack to a ledge.

3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.

J Moran, A Evans(led pitch 3), G Milburn (1 pt) 1978, FFA R Fawcett 1980.

Crowbar E2

often damp - grassy

The Grim Reaper E3 6a

The left edge of the bay is bounded by a huge pinnacle known as Shag Rock.

Black Spot 180 feet HVS

A fairly serious route taking the shallow grooves up the L side of the bay. Start just R of Shag Rock.

1 80' 5a Climb the short steep wall then move rightwards onto a ledge. Follow a crack to a second ledge and peg belay.

2 100' 4c Go up the ramp on the L to gain a scoop leading to the top.

L E and L R Holliwell, 1967.

Bitter Days E1

Shag Rock 80 feet HVS 5a

Climbs the pinnacle starting inside the chimney behind, near its R side.Chimney up and pull up to a ledge on the arête. Climb this and take the last bit on the inside face, PR, with interesting moves to reach the summit. Descend by abseil.

M A Boysen, B Ingle, 1964

Shagorado E3 5c

spirals up Shag Rock.

Left of the Shag Rock pinnacle is the very popular Central Park wall. Left of centre is the stunning thin crack of The Strand.

Fifth Avenue 150 feet E1 *

Takes the groove up the R edge of the Central Park Wall. Start in the chimney formed by the L edge of the Shag Rock pinnacle.

1 130' 5b/c Chimney up until it is possible to to pull boldly into the groove running up and leftwards. Follow the groove over 2 bulges to a stance and peg belay.
Alternative description: into the bulging groove that runs up leftwards. Layback the groove to gain the upper ramp (crux). Follow sustained ramp / grrove past spike belay of Tequila Sunrise to a spike and old peg belay

2 20' 5b Climb the short wall above to the top. Scramble to belay at the back wall of the slope above.

M A Boysen, M Yates, 1966.

Tequila Sunrise 150 feet E2 5c

A dirty grass fest at present, but would clean up to give a reasonable route with a distinct crux.
Start at the base of the chimney as for Fifth Avenue.
Added: reasonably clean (July 2009) would benefit from more traffic. Enjoyable with a straightforward short crux section.
1 100' 5b Step left and climb to the top of the dirty flake. Ascend the grassy wall above, moving right onto the ramp of Fifth Avenue above the bulges.
2 50' 5c Move up and climb the steep crack in the right wall to a grassy exit onto the arete.
Al Evans, Jim Moran (alts) Dave Knighton 27/5/78

Times Square 160 feet E1 *

A direct line up the wall L of Fifth Avenue. Find a belay just above the short rocky traverse on the path and beneath a shallow groove. loose rock on first pitch, 2nd pitch appears held together by grass

1 130' 5a Keeping L, climb to the top of the grassy groove and move R to boldly climb some thin cracks. Climb a R trending groove above to a peg belay at the top of the groove on Fifth Avenue. - belay half way up ramp of 5th avenue.

2 30' 5a Go L from the belay and climb a series of flakes to a finish near the toop of Central Park. Belay here or, better, well up the slope above.
Alternative description: climb directly up the left trending groove, after about 20ft head up left on blocks to the ledge below the crack of street survivor P1 (wires) step right crux and follow thin cracks past some hollwo blocks/spikes to gain the right trending groove that leads to the spike belay of 5th avenue

F E R Cannings, D G Peers 1967. Pitch 2 F Cannings, T Lewis, 1969.

Street Survivor 175 feet E2

Start directly below the final crack of Central Park. Peg missing.

1 80' 4c Climb the wall and crack which leads directly up to the stance on Central Park. 2 95' 5c Move up the top crack of Central Park for a few moves then move L (awkward) to gain flakes out the wall, which are followed to a PR. The steep shallow groove above leads to the top. Belay way back.

D Knighton, J Tout 1978

Central Park 200 feet HVS **

Takes the obvious wide crack in the upper RH side of the wall. Start in the small niche on the L of the short rock traverse on the path.

1 100' 4c Climb the slabby wall on the L to reach a shallow groove. This leads to a ledge on the L. Move up R then take the obvious L trending line and steep groove to a wall. Go up this to an old PR below an overhung niche. Traverse R to belay beneath the wide crack.

2 100' 5a Climb the crack past a couple of tricky moves near the top to reach a ledge in niche. A belay can be set up here. Scramble up steps in the steep grass above to reach easy ground.

P Crew, D Alcock (alt, 10 pts) 1966.

Manor Park 190 feet E3 *

An intimidating first pitch and enjoyable second pitch. The crux is easier for tall climbers.

1 100' 5b Follow Central Park for 50' until it is possible to move R and climb a thin crack direct to the Central Park belay.

2 90' 6a Follow the obvious diagonal thin crack out L to a PR at 30'. Continue L to another PR at 80' and climb to the top with difficulty.

J Moran, D Knighton, A Evans, 27/5/78

Hyde Park E4

The Strand 160 feet E2 ***

Well protected sustained climbing up the striking crack on the brushed wall. Low in the grade. Start below, and a couple of metres L, of the crack.

1 140' 5b Climb up rightwards to reach the crack. Climb it to a peg belay below a short slab.

2 20' 4b Climb the broken slab above then follow steps up the steep grass to belay at the far back of the wall. (or ab off, most people do)

E Drummond (1 pt), 1967. FFA ?

Park Lane/Doomsville 180 feet E1 **

Start as for the Strand.

1 90' 5b Climb diagonally up R to the crack of The Strand. Follow a line of holds L to the bulge. Move L and up, then back R into the crack and continue to good PBs and a stance at the top of the flake.

2 70' Climb the narrow ramp on the R with difficulty (PR), then a short crack to a PB on the broken slab at the top of The Strand.

3 20' 4b As for the Strand pitch 2.

L E and L R Holliwell (pitch 1), A G Cram, M Yates, J Yates (pitch 2), 1967.

Park Lane E1

Pitches 2 & 3 have little merit and will be overgrown

Mayfair

Doomsville

Broadway

Transatlantic Crossing

The following routes start from the steep vegetated amphitheatre up and left of the Central Park Wall. It's difficult to get to so not popular.

Gladiator HVS 5a

Kira His E4 6a

Amphitheatre Wall HVS 4c

Mill Street Junction E1 5b

The Cracks HVS 5a

A fine route, making the dreadful approach almost worthwhile (maybe). Start on the left side of the bay beneath a system of clean cracks.
1 150' 5a Climb the cracks, medium and large friends useful.

There are a pair of Peregrines nesting on the belay ledge of The Cracks and Staying Alive at the moment, June '07, so probably best avoided. (Good views form the top of The Strand though)

Staying Alive E4 6a

Moving left from where the amphitheatre ends, the crag steepens and becomes more continuous. The broken grassy ramp running along the base gradually rises until it eventually sweeps up to divide the Upper Tier from the Main Cliff just beyond the corner of Bezel.

Ceilidh E2 5c

Mondo Hard E4 6a

Yellow Scar E1 5b

Monsoon E2
Takes a line to the left of Hurricane.
Twid, Simon Hale 2002

Hurricane E2 5c

The Gauntlet - Page 84 Gogarth North 165 feet HVS **

Start in a shallow groove directly below the crack/groove line L of the huge, yellow, rock fall scar.

1 70' 5a Climb the groove (PR) and over the bulge (crux) to better holds.Continue up until it is possible to move R up the steep wall to a small stance and PB.

2 70' 4b Up the groove on the L for 30', then R into another groove which leads to a PB on the R.

3 70' 4b Traverse L to finish up the steep corner crack. Belay well back.

P Crew, B Ingle (alt) 1964

The Gauntlet, which is one of the most popular routes on The Upper Tier of Gogarth, has been affected by a rock fall (albeit not actually on the route!). Well, on page 84 of the new Gogarth North book, the "scramble up and right for a further 10m to belay in a groove" , has suffered from a recent rock fall. A sizeable portion of the "solid" belay block has fallen off the cliff. It is still possible to use a small spike and some wire placements immediately left of the rock fall, but care is needed with shattered nature of the rock and the unstable turf above. It was always possible to take a stance at the top of the "classic corner pitch", although most of the placements were behind hollow flakes/blocks. Other options include continuing for approx 25m beyond the rock fall area, to various spikes and blocks http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=337722

Ziggurat E3 6a

The Ramp 180 feet HVS **
Appears to have suffered rock fall, top out very loose.

Takes the steep grey ramp up the wall L of the Gauntlet. Start at a pinnacle below the ramp.

1 100' 5a Climb the pinnacle then step R to a ledge (can be hazardous during nesting season!). Up the corner (PR at 20') then climb the slab to some spikes on the L. Pass the bulge in the corner (crux) and continue to a large spike at the top of the ramp. Traverse easily L to belay below a steep corner.

2 80' 4c Climb to the top of the crack in the corner. Make a blind move R into a bottomless chimney (airy and tricky) and up this more easily to finish.

P Crew, J Baldcock, 1966

Energy Crisis 190 feet E5 ***

A strenuous route with a fine sustained first pitch. Start beneath the RH of two wide cracks a little left of The Ramp.

1 90' 6a Climb the crack direct to belay on The Ramp.

2 100' 5b From the righthand end on the ledge go right into a bottomless groove. Go up and step left to a thin crack. This leads to a slabby groove on the left which is followed to the top.

P Whillance, D Armstrong, 1978.

Afreet Street 170 feet E5

Start beneath the lefthand of two wide cracks a little left of The Ramp.

1 90' 6a Climb narrow slabs until it is possible to enter the crack on the right. Climb this to the stance on The Ramp.

2 80' Climb shallow cracks above, finishing up chimney.

E Drummond 1969 (4pts), FFA R Fawcett 1980

Gael's Wall 150 feet E3 5c

Juggy blob hauling and pinching up the wall between Afreet Street and Fail Safe. Start as for Afreet Street, stepping left onto the ramp of Fail Safe. Follow the curving undercut feature, past a good small wire, then go straight up the wall to an obvious large chickenhead ledge. An exciting mantle onto this leads to a groove and flared crack which takes you to the exit move of Fail Safe and its belay. The second pitch of Energy Crisis gives a balanced finish.

Tim Neill, Jon Garside, Sue Savage. (31/5/02).

Fail Safe 170 feet E2 *
Takes the wall L of Afreet Street. Powerful climbing with some long reaches and a difficult exit from the top of the first pitch. Protection is adequate but not generous. Start beneath the LH of two wide cracks a little L of The Ramp.

1 90' 5b Climb narrow slabs, past a quartz spike, to reach the OH, many slings required. Move R (hard) and climb small ledges to gain the belay on The Ramp.

2 80' 5a Finish up The Ramp pitch 2.

D Alcock, P Crew (alt), 1966.

The Eternal Optimist 150 feet E2 *

A good route on reasonable holds which takes the steep corner crack running up to an OH above the foot of the slab which defines the L end of the Upper Tier. Start beneath the crack.

1 120' 5b Steeply up the lower wall to the base of the crack. Climb this using large holds on the L wall and make a tricky move over the OH. Continue more easily to a good ledge on the L.

2 30' 4b Finish up the crack just L of the belay.

A Sharp, S Humphries, 1975

Cartwheel E2 5b
Al Evans, Jim Moran 5/7/78

Bezel 160 feet VS *

Start at the end of the path at the foot of a curving groove a few feet L of the Eternal Optimist.

1 50' 4b Climb a small pinnacle on the L to reach a diagonal crack in the slab up R. Cross the slab on the L and up to a small ledge below the groove - PBs.

2 80' 5a Surmount the bulge and follow the groove above until it is possible to move R to a stance.

3 30' 4b Finish up a short crack on the L to the top.

B Ingle, P Crew 1964

Slow Dancer E1 5a

FA Jim,Moran, Al Evans 5/7/78

Sulcus 140 feet VS (?) 5a

Follow the obvious crack in the arête L of Bezel. Start from the pinnacle of Bezel.

Follow the crack as far as the OH and move L around it into a niche. Step L then go up to spike belays. Finish up broken ground.

R Holliwell, J Fitzgerald, 1969.

The Underground

A girdle traverse of the Upper Tier. E.Drummond