A great little venue that begs you to DWS the routes. An experience climber had a nasty surprise and a seriously broke foot when he unexpectedly hit a submerged block.

The wall left of King of the Swingers has been climbed at E2 - Crispin? DWS?

**King of the Swingers 30m E3 (R) (1978)
Start below the obvious overhanging left facing groove in the centre of the wall.
1 18m. 5c. Climb the bulge and the awkward groove above good holds beneath a roof. Move left and on to a large ledge.
2 12m. 5c. Traverse out right to gain good holds on the arête in a wild position, move around it and climb directly up to finish.

Variations:

1a Gain the ledge from the left. - E3 5c C.Waddy? DWS?

2a Climb directly up the groove with little protection to a scary finish. E4 5c. - Twid

Climbs the groove left of Mandela to the roof then traverse rt (where king of the swingers goes left) and up over some hard moves to a ledge above. Finish more easily.

Twid, Steve Mayers, date?

**Smurf 51m E2 (R) (1978)
An excellent climb, sustained at the standard. Start about 12 metres right of Green Light, just right of a small hole on the traverse.
1 30m. 5b. Climb diagonally left under a slanting overhang to its end, and climb up the bulging wall to a ledge. Go right along this to a steep ramp, and follow it to the overhang. Traverse left under the overhang for six metres to a small stance.
2 21m. 5b. Climb directly above the stance to the next break. Traverse right for three metres and climb the wall above to a break. Go left two metres then climb diagonally right to the top.

*Gnome 43m E2 (R) (1978)
This route is perhaps harder than its neighbour, but is similar in quality. Start six metres right of Smurf.
1 25m. 5b. Follow the diagonal ramp rightwards round an overhanging nose, then climb straight over an overhang, on large holds, to easier ground. Climb up to a good ledge on the right.
2 18m. 5c. From the left-hand side of the ledge climb up to a break, and continue to the next break. Step left to an overhanging pod and crack, and follow this, with difficulty, to the next break. Traverse left to the corner, and follow this to the top.

*Elf 30m E1 5b (R) (1978)
Worthwhile with some interesting climbing. Start below and right of a fin of rock, in the centre of the wall. Climb up to the right side of the fin, traverse left under it, and climb the left side of it. From its top pull into an overhanging slot, and follow this rightwards until it is possible to pull out onto the wall. Climb the wall past two breaks to the top.

Balu 30m Hard Very Severe 5a (R) (1978)
Start between Elf and the edge of the wall. Climb up to the overhang at six metres. Traverse left, then go up the wall trending right at the final overhang.

Dai Hard E5 6bThe rt hand side of the Smurf wall. Climb up to a peg and hard moves up the wall lead up to a rest. Finish direct.Twid and Louise Thomas

**The Smurf Girdle 79m Hard Very Severe (R) (1978)
A good little trip around this exciting zawn, starting at a big platform on the right side of the zawn.
1 30m. 5a. Follow the obvious break curving under the overhang until the angle eases. Continue in the same line to belay on Gnome.
2 15m. 4c. Climb up to the next break, and traverse under the overhang to a junction with Smurf. Follow this to its stance.
3 34m. 4a. Traverse horizontally into the corner, and descend this for three metres to an obvious line. Follow this to the easy-angled ramp and belay here. Scramble off to finish.

Around the corner is the wave cut platform right of Smurf zawn

Arettic behaviour E6 6b
Climbs the prominent arête on the left hand side of the platform.
Climb the sharp arête from the left hand side initially to straddle the arête to the top
Twid and Louise,1999