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Sea Level Traverses
To a twisted and aquatic minority this perverse activity is at the heart of the Gogarth adventure experience, mazimising the time spent in the magical zone of perfect sea washed crozzle, between the sea and the leaning walls. The tides, waves and temperature will make or break the experience, and in less than ideal conditions you have an epic on a plate. Traditionally done with a rope for the Tyroleans, the traverses are now more commonly soloed, with short swims across unclimbable sections. Confident swimming ability is essential. Some prior knowledge of the cliffs, tides, key descents and main routes is very useful. A wetsuit is strongly recommended on all but the hottest days. They also provide good protection against the abrasive rock. A small dry bag is also useful. If you are thinking of taking a chalk bag, you have seriously misunderstood the deal.
The traverses are best attempted on a falling Neap Tide. This means that generally the traverses become easier and less commiting as the tide falls and more holds, boulders and ledges become exposed. Consider also the direction of tidal flow if traversing on exposed headlands. Never underestimate being in, or just above, the Irish Sea at the bottom of Gogarth. In less than calm conditions some of these traverses are impossible, and several fatalities and rescues have occured. In 1980 Scottish climber John Cunningham died on a low level traverse at South Stack after being swept out to sea while trying to rescue someone. Escape routes are often well spaced, or, in the case of the Main Cliff, non-existent, without confident solo-ing abilities. Spring high tides and choppy seas should be avoided.
Some indication of the number of swims necessary is provided. Varying water levels, critical barnacle locations, and personal ability all contribute to the degree of difficulty and extent of baptismal antics experienced. The same traverse can provide varied experiences at different water levels and in different directions. They also provide an excellent approach to various solo-ing possibilities. The 'integral' from Abrahams Bosom to Holyhead is a looooooong day out, if your epidermis lasts.
Abraham's Bosom to South Stack (R)
South Stack to the Main Cliff
The Main Cliff to North Stack
North Stack to Holyhead Breakwater Quarry : The North Face Traverse
The traverses are best attempted on a falling Neap Tide. This means that generally the traverses become easier and less commiting as the tide falls and more holds, boulders and ledges become exposed. Consider also the direction of tidal flow if traversing on exposed headlands. Never underestimate being in, or just above, the Irish Sea at the bottom of Gogarth. In less than calm conditions some of these traverses are impossible, and several fatalities and rescues have occured. In 1980 Scottish climber John Cunningham died on a low level traverse at South Stack after being swept out to sea while trying to rescue someone. Escape routes are often well spaced, or, in the case of the Main Cliff, non-existent, without confident solo-ing abilities. Spring high tides and choppy seas should be avoided.
Some indication of the number of swims necessary is provided. Varying water levels, critical barnacle locations, and personal ability all contribute to the degree of difficulty and extent of baptismal antics experienced. The same traverse can provide varied experiences at different water levels and in different directions. They also provide an excellent approach to various solo-ing possibilities. The 'integral' from Abrahams Bosom to Holyhead is a looooooong day out, if your epidermis lasts.
Abraham's Bosom to South Stack (R)
An excellent and long traverse with wild scenery and great climbing. Minimum of three swims, but likely to need more.
Access: from the road junction where the turn-off to South Stack from Holyhead is, follow the path down to the sea. On the section from Abraham's Bosom to Penlas rock you need to get wet at least twice: after Smurf Zawn, swim across Blacksmith's, and then Natalie, Zawns. Escape can be made at this point up the ridge and grassy slopes between Penlas Rock and Penlas Gully. Excellent and sustained climbing, often on amazing rock, continues under Yellow Wall to Mousetrap Zawn, with at least one swim after Lighthouse Arete.
Egress: From the far side of Mousetrap Zawn, reverse the approach from the gap in the lighthouse steps to reach South Stack car park.
Access: from the road junction where the turn-off to South Stack from Holyhead is, follow the path down to the sea. On the section from Abraham's Bosom to Penlas rock you need to get wet at least twice: after Smurf Zawn, swim across Blacksmith's, and then Natalie, Zawns. Escape can be made at this point up the ridge and grassy slopes between Penlas Rock and Penlas Gully. Excellent and sustained climbing, often on amazing rock, continues under Yellow Wall to Mousetrap Zawn, with at least one swim after Lighthouse Arete.
Egress: From the far side of Mousetrap Zawn, reverse the approach from the gap in the lighthouse steps to reach South Stack car park.
South Stack to the Main Cliff
A very long traverse, with a mixture of scrambling, walking and climbing. Isolated locations and some interesting climbing, including a tunnel, make up for sections of slithering on slimey boulders. Some interesting scenery on the way, including Thunderbird and Skull Zawns, and Trinity House Walls. Two or three swims are normal.
Tidal issues: there can be very strong currents in the channel between South Stack lighthouse and the mainland.
Access: 1. steep down climbing below South Stack bridge 2: illegally cross the bridge to South Stack, descend to sea level and swim back across the narrow channel (calm conditions only). 3. follow the Mousetrap Zawn descent via the lighthouse steps and traverse to the bridge at sea level (Restricted)
Egress: scramble up to below Emulator to gain the Main Cliff access path, or continue to North Stack.
Tidal issues: there can be very strong currents in the channel between South Stack lighthouse and the mainland.
Access: 1. steep down climbing below South Stack bridge 2: illegally cross the bridge to South Stack, descend to sea level and swim back across the narrow channel (calm conditions only). 3. follow the Mousetrap Zawn descent via the lighthouse steps and traverse to the bridge at sea level (Restricted)
Egress: scramble up to below Emulator to gain the Main Cliff access path, or continue to North Stack.
The Main Cliff to North Stack
A Gogarth classic, with amazing scenery. At least three to five short swims are normal. Much easier at low tide. There is only one easy escape point between The Upper Tier and North Stack.
Tidal issues: Gogarth Bay is generally sheltered from strong tidal flows, but not from big seas. Wen Zawn has at least one or two swims, and huge boulders in the zawn can make this a wild place in rough conditions and/or incoming tides. In calm conditions and on a falling tide you will wonder what the fuss is about.
Access : follow the Main Cliff descent path below the Upper Tier. Traverse below the Main Cliff to a compulsory 6a/b section, or a short swim, just after Hustler, to get to Easter Island Gully, reversing the low-level 5c traverse on Swastika. Continue to Wen Zawn (6a or swim) which is amazing from the sea. A number of possibilities exist here, including: traversing outside Annie's Arch to Britomartis; traversing the Cryptic Rift and exiting 'The Dam'; swimming through the arch; or traversing the back of the zawn from T-Rex. All end in a swim, which can be broken using The Whale boulder (the exposed rock under Spider Wall). In extremis, it is possible to escape here by Very Difficult climbing between Miura (Mustang Wall) and Ipso Facto, then steep grass rightwards to reach the Wen Slab promontory.
Pass through Seal Song zawn (swim) and Flytrap cave (good climbing, with a hard exit from zawn, or a swim). North Stack beckons, with perhaps one short final swim. From Parliament House Cave, either traverse the base of North Stack Wall with difficulty (calm conditions), or exit via the through tunnel, with wading or a short swim. This tunnel is in the back lefthand corner of the cave, below where North Stack Wall meets the main cave. In adverse weather or seal breeding periods, the seaward end of the tunnel can be 'interesting'.
Egress: Scramble up on to North Stack from either side of the tunnel exit. Ideally extended by continuing from North Stack to Breakwater Quarry.
Tidal issues: Gogarth Bay is generally sheltered from strong tidal flows, but not from big seas. Wen Zawn has at least one or two swims, and huge boulders in the zawn can make this a wild place in rough conditions and/or incoming tides. In calm conditions and on a falling tide you will wonder what the fuss is about.
Access : follow the Main Cliff descent path below the Upper Tier. Traverse below the Main Cliff to a compulsory 6a/b section, or a short swim, just after Hustler, to get to Easter Island Gully, reversing the low-level 5c traverse on Swastika. Continue to Wen Zawn (6a or swim) which is amazing from the sea. A number of possibilities exist here, including: traversing outside Annie's Arch to Britomartis; traversing the Cryptic Rift and exiting 'The Dam'; swimming through the arch; or traversing the back of the zawn from T-Rex. All end in a swim, which can be broken using The Whale boulder (the exposed rock under Spider Wall). In extremis, it is possible to escape here by Very Difficult climbing between Miura (Mustang Wall) and Ipso Facto, then steep grass rightwards to reach the Wen Slab promontory.
Pass through Seal Song zawn (swim) and Flytrap cave (good climbing, with a hard exit from zawn, or a swim). North Stack beckons, with perhaps one short final swim. From Parliament House Cave, either traverse the base of North Stack Wall with difficulty (calm conditions), or exit via the through tunnel, with wading or a short swim. This tunnel is in the back lefthand corner of the cave, below where North Stack Wall meets the main cave. In adverse weather or seal breeding periods, the seaward end of the tunnel can be 'interesting'.
Egress: Scramble up on to North Stack from either side of the tunnel exit. Ideally extended by continuing from North Stack to Breakwater Quarry.
North Stack to Holyhead Breakwater Quarry : The North Face Traverse
Highly recommended, especially for those who think that Gogarth stops at North Stack. A long traverse, with continuously interesting climbing and a variety of possibilities, including a hidden through tunnel halfway along. Five swims are likely. Much easier at Low Water. There is no sun so a wetsuit is especially advised. A cool, isolated and sunless proposition, taking in many esoteric little zawns and deep, dark caves, which are crossed by excellent climbing, or several short swims. The indented nature of the cliffs make this a longer proposition than the Main Cliff traverse, with which it is ideally combined to make a fascinating day trip.
Tidal issues: very exposed at North Stack in adverse weather and tidal conditions. The north facing coast line can also be very exposed in adverse conditions.
Access : From North Stack,1. abseil in to Parliament House Cave, and use the through tunnel to gain the north side of North Stack. 2. easy scrambling down the north side of the headland from the Lighthouse, to arrive at the seaward end of the tunnel. 3. descend to sea level at the extreme point of the headland, directly opposite North Stack Island. Egress : on reaching the boulder beach below Breakwater Quarry, take a vague grassy gully with a faint path which arrives directly at the quarry car park.
Escapable in several places by short scrambling, then steep grass slopes to gain the North Stack path.
Tidal issues: very exposed at North Stack in adverse weather and tidal conditions. The north facing coast line can also be very exposed in adverse conditions.
Access : From North Stack,1. abseil in to Parliament House Cave, and use the through tunnel to gain the north side of North Stack. 2. easy scrambling down the north side of the headland from the Lighthouse, to arrive at the seaward end of the tunnel. 3. descend to sea level at the extreme point of the headland, directly opposite North Stack Island. Egress : on reaching the boulder beach below Breakwater Quarry, take a vague grassy gully with a faint path which arrives directly at the quarry car park.
Escapable in several places by short scrambling, then steep grass slopes to gain the North Stack path.
AndrewWalker |
Latest page update: made by AndrewWalker
, Oct 26 2007, 1:33 PM EDT
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