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Left Hand Red Walls
rightwardsSEASONAL RESTRICTIONS
This venue is subject to a seasonal restriction due to nesting birds from the 1st February to the 31st July. The following day is known locally as 'The glorious first'. Breaking this ban will seriously affect access to the entire area. For more details visit THE BMC REGIONAL ACCESS DATABASE.
Vena Cava 21m Very Severe 4c (R)
Really only an escape, but pleasant all the same. Start left of the arête. Follow the left-hand side of the arête, then step left to finish up a slight corner.
BSB E1 R
Really only an escape, but pleasant all the same. Start left of the arête. Follow the left-hand side of the arête, then step left to finish up a slight corner.
The left hand wall escape route start at the peak of promontory.
Paul Barbier &Ian McNeill 1991
***The Missionary- Maze link-up 225m E4 (R) (1978/1970/2007?) A link-up of the two ‘Red Wall’ girdles provides a superb Gogarth Adventure. Nowhere are the difficulties excessive, but thoughtful route finding, care with the rock and diligence in seeking protection are pre-requisites to a successful outcome. All members of the party should be experienced at this grade on the Red Walls. All belays are good. Best left for a quiet day! Start from the ‘col’ at the left-hand end of the Left Hand Red Wall, reached by a short abseil from a huge spike in the slope above the left-hand arête. Nut and spike belay.
1 30m. 5b. From the ‘col’, traverse right passing large spikes until a step up gains a ledge line. Follow this then step down to cross a rib. Ascend slightly, crossing Cannibal, then continue rightwards across poor rock. Move right and up to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall. 2 28m 5c. Traverse right, to a step down to gain a good spike. Move right (crux) and descend the groove of Heart of Gold (well-protected). From its base, ascend diagonally rightwards past the Super Calabrese belay peg to a protruding ledge. Climb down, and then go right to gain a large layback flake (Pagan). Follow this to a hanging stance at its top.
3 35m 5b. Follow the obvious horizontal crack line, which leads into Anarchist at a large detached flake. Continue up Anarchist (the juggy crack line) to belay on a large ledge (on Red Wall Escape Route ramp) close to a large grey spike against the cliff.
4 30m 5c. climb the wall boldly above the grey pinnacle to a horizontal break, then move right, and go up to a sandy ledge. Move up right to the arête, and then continue right for 6m to good cracks, and a peg. Climb down for 3m, peg, and then across the wall reach a sharp downward pointing overhang/fang (recognisable by a small inverted V notch in its lip). Layback around this to gain a good ledge in the groove of Television Route. Small wires and small cam (F 1/2) required for the belay). 5 12m 5b. Climb down to good small ledges, then continue down for 2m, and step right to a corner (Redshift). Climb this, and move out right onto a sloping ledge, Wendigo, pitch 3 belay. 6 30m 5c. Traverse right to a small ledge. Move round the corner and onto a ledge on Red Haze. Go down the obvious broken grey ramp just right for 6m, until it is possible to gain the sandy white chimney/fault line (rapture of the Deep). Move up slightly then right to gain a similar fault line (Red Wall final pitch). Descend this for 4m to its belay (a white sandy alcove with several ancient pegs).
7 30m 5b. Climb across the wall until it is possible, at 3m, to pass a small protruding nose. Move right onto the fine red wall to gain a good flake (Fantasia). Climb this, then trend diagonally rightwards making exiting moves using jugs on the lip of a small roof to gain another white sandy chimney/fault line (Communication Breakdown). Climb down this (or the more solid, ramp immediately right) for 10m to a good ledge on A Brown Study. 8 30m 5b. Move right then up to gain sloping, red ledges. When these end, head diagonally rightwards past sandy rock to reach a short red wall. Climb this, then head up and rightwards to reach a natural thread where the slab meets the wall. Pull over here, and head easily, but carefully to the top. Belay from a low flat boulder and with a braced sitting down stance against the path edge! Link done (alts) 28/08/07 Mike Waters, Graham Hoey
1 30m. 5b. From the ‘col’, traverse right passing large spikes until a step up gains a ledge line. Follow this then step down to cross a rib. Ascend slightly, crossing Cannibal, then continue rightwards across poor rock. Move right and up to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall. 2 28m 5c. Traverse right, to a step down to gain a good spike. Move right (crux) and descend the groove of Heart of Gold (well-protected). From its base, ascend diagonally rightwards past the Super Calabrese belay peg to a protruding ledge. Climb down, and then go right to gain a large layback flake (Pagan). Follow this to a hanging stance at its top.
3 35m 5b. Follow the obvious horizontal crack line, which leads into Anarchist at a large detached flake. Continue up Anarchist (the juggy crack line) to belay on a large ledge (on Red Wall Escape Route ramp) close to a large grey spike against the cliff.
4 30m 5c. climb the wall boldly above the grey pinnacle to a horizontal break, then move right, and go up to a sandy ledge. Move up right to the arête, and then continue right for 6m to good cracks, and a peg. Climb down for 3m, peg, and then across the wall reach a sharp downward pointing overhang/fang (recognisable by a small inverted V notch in its lip). Layback around this to gain a good ledge in the groove of Television Route. Small wires and small cam (F 1/2) required for the belay). 5 12m 5b. Climb down to good small ledges, then continue down for 2m, and step right to a corner (Redshift). Climb this, and move out right onto a sloping ledge, Wendigo, pitch 3 belay. 6 30m 5c. Traverse right to a small ledge. Move round the corner and onto a ledge on Red Haze. Go down the obvious broken grey ramp just right for 6m, until it is possible to gain the sandy white chimney/fault line (rapture of the Deep). Move up slightly then right to gain a similar fault line (Red Wall final pitch). Descend this for 4m to its belay (a white sandy alcove with several ancient pegs).
7 30m 5b. Climb across the wall until it is possible, at 3m, to pass a small protruding nose. Move right onto the fine red wall to gain a good flake (Fantasia). Climb this, then trend diagonally rightwards making exiting moves using jugs on the lip of a small roof to gain another white sandy chimney/fault line (Communication Breakdown). Climb down this (or the more solid, ramp immediately right) for 10m to a good ledge on A Brown Study. 8 30m 5b. Move right then up to gain sloping, red ledges. When these end, head diagonally rightwards past sandy rock to reach a short red wall. Climb this, then head up and rightwards to reach a natural thread where the slab meets the wall. Pull over here, and head easily, but carefully to the top. Belay from a low flat boulder and with a braced sitting down stance against the path edge! Link done (alts) 28/08/07 Mike Waters, Graham Hoey
Auricle 109mHVS R
Alt Finish
Ceefax 55m HVS R
*Alligator 40m E1 5b (R) (1978)
Fairly serious, and a good introduction to this type of climbing, starting at the foot of a prominent crack, at the top of the grassy ramp, about halfway between the top pitch of Auricle, and Left Hand Red Wall. Climb the corner, poor peg, to a ledge below an overlap. Move left, ascend a shallow groove past a peg, and trend slightly right on large loose holds to a deep break. Finish up the difficult crack, three metres right of the Auricle Alternative Finish.
FA Al Evans, P Williams, Jim Moran, B Winteringham 6/8/78
Cannibal E4 5c 44m R
Not so much of a man eater now but still a bold and frightening proposition. Start at the corner, near aprominent crack at the top of the grassy ramp. A bold traverse out right leads to a peg of sorts just above an overhang, continue round into a loose groove with some uninspiring spikes, continue up and exit out left onto more solid wall, where a peg resides, it is possible to assess the pegs condition, as you can easily see it all in the placement! Shake up the wall to reach the safety of the break, traversing left and right to arrange as much gear as possible. The line lies up the bubbly wall above to an obscured left facing groove. Climb this to belly flop over the top with much relief.
FA J.Moran,A.Evans, P.Williams B.Wintringham,6/8/78
Variations:
Cannibal Direct Start R E5 6a
Gain the peg direct up the through the rotten overlap.
Gain the peg direct up the through the rotten overlap.
T.Hodgson, P.Pritchard, 11/10/86
Cannibal Direct Finish 45m E5 5c R
From the final break, step right and climb straight up between Schittlegruber and Cannibal.
M.Pointon. (1993)
Cannibal with the Schittlegruber Gibbers finish E4 5c R
From the break shuffle right to the large left facing corner of schittlegruber, climb this to where schittlegruber swings out right at the roof, and wobble out left avoiding the difficulty, but with extra rope drag.
***Schittlegruber 56m E5 (R)
A very fine route, with a serious first pitch and strenuous top pitch. Start eight metres up left from Left-Hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1 28m. 5c. Climb the vegetated groove to join Left-Hand Red Wall at the small roof. Swing immediately left to a hollow flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-Hand Red Wall belay. Traverse right to belay.
2 28m. 6b. Go diagonally up left to an overlap, and climb strenuously on good rock to a ledge on the left, below a huge groove. Ascend the groove, in a wild position, to swing right at its end. Finish up the hairy wall.
A very fine route, with a serious first pitch and strenuous top pitch. Start eight metres up left from Left-Hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1 28m. 5c. Climb the vegetated groove to join Left-Hand Red Wall at the small roof. Swing immediately left to a hollow flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-Hand Red Wall belay. Traverse right to belay.
2 28m. 6b. Go diagonally up left to an overlap, and climb strenuously on good rock to a ledge on the left, below a huge groove. Ascend the groove, in a wild position, to swing right at its end. Finish up the hairy wall.
P.Pritchard, N Harms 16/8/86
**Left-Hand Red Wall 62m E3 (R) (1967)
Two good contrasting pitches: the first, being serious on poor rock, followed by a more technical compact second pitch. Start by a shallow groove, a few meters above the main slanting overlap on this side of the wall.
1 25m. 5c. Ascend the groove on the left, to the roof, then go right onto a slab, and move into a shallow rounded groove. A hard section leads to a belay on a good ledge.
2 37m. 5c. Step right, and climb a flake crack to a small ledge. Traverse right, peg, into a shallow niche, climb a diagonal crack above, then go straight up the wall to the top.
Two good contrasting pitches: the first, being serious on poor rock, followed by a more technical compact second pitch. Start by a shallow groove, a few meters above the main slanting overlap on this side of the wall.
1 25m. 5c. Ascend the groove on the left, to the roof, then go right onto a slab, and move into a shallow rounded groove. A hard section leads to a belay on a good ledge.
2 37m. 5c. Step right, and climb a flake crack to a small ledge. Traverse right, peg, into a shallow niche, climb a diagonal crack above, then go straight up the wall to the top.
Joe Brown, Pete Crew (alts) 11/6/67
1. Climb Left Hand Red Wall to belay.
2.20m 6b. Follow Left Hand Red Wall to a peg and from the ledge, climb straight up passing a pocket at 10m. A hard move over a bulge leads to a rest. Carry on to the top with out much gear. High in the grade and possibly E7 if approached via Heart of Gold Direct.
Twid and Kath Goodey (15/9/91). Top pitch totally on sight.(subsequent ascents found more gear on top wall involving abseil! )
The Heart of Gold Direct-Ramalina Connection climbed by G. Farquhar and W. Young, on-sight,1997. Second ascent of this combo by N.Bullock.
Howl the Trowel E7 6c 23m R
Start from the Left Hand Red Wall second belay.
Climb the wall left of Mein Kampf. Climb up towards the peg and make a hard move up a smooth wall to another peg. Committing moves up thin holds eventually lead to the top and cakes.
Twid and Al George,1991. Named after a trowel made by Al George and a very much howling Paul Jenkins after a night listening to the Dukes
Heart of Gold *** E5 R
Whatta route! The main pitch blasts up the middle of left-hand red wall in magnificent positions. The hors d’oeuvres is no push-over. Start two-thirds of the way down the grassy ramp (40m abseil), an obvious tottering Talc and Quartz groove marks the line of Left Hand Red Wall.
1. 6a. 17m. Up Left Hand Red Wall for 3m then head out rightwards from a rattley flake to reach protection. Make committing moves right, then right and up to a small ledge. With ingenuity, a good belay can be constructed hanging below the ledge.
2. 6a. 40m. Go up to an overlap, good large wire, crimp (technical crux) to a stopping place then sprint directly to a small spike. (Heart of Gold Original traverses right from the stopping place to the base of a left leaning groove and climbs this, good rest, to the small spike. Less logical and no easier). Move left to a larger spike and good rest. Enjoy the view! Gain and follow a crack up and rightwards to a small ledge then move up to a niche where LH Red Wall joins from the left. Up this, trending rightwards, to the top.
FA Mick Fowler and ........(1978). Direct: Paul Prichard (1986) Speed record on this pitch must be Noel (5 hours). He also took a 40 footer when he pulled a TV sized block off.
***Deygo 102m E3 (R) (1968/1973)
A very good route, with its fair share of serious and strenuous climbing, following the most striking line of weakness, slanting rightwards up the full height of the wall. Start about 25m above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21 m. 5b. As for Pagan, pitch 1. Traverse right to a small ledge, and continue right to gain an obvious dusty slanting chimney. Ascend this, on the right side, to a RURP, and pull steeply right to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts (backed up by cams).
2 21 m. 5b. Step right and climb the shallow chimney, moving left over a slight bulge to a peg. Carry on up the up the shattered crack to a square-cut ledge, then step right to a peg in a groove. Climb the groove to a small stance on easier ground.
3 35m. 5c. Climb up above the belay for three metres to a peg where the angle eases slightly. Follow the striking crack, past a few more pegs, to a belay on a sloping ramp, Red Wall Escape Route. (Doesn't the original line traverse right out of the diagonal crack short of the top where it is joined by Anarchist? The description here sounds like Infidel which follows the "striking crack" in its upper reaches I think)
[The 1977 Alec Sharp guide clearly shows a traverse right to the area of Anarchist (Not done at the time obviously) Ther used to be a metal "horn" that you could lasoo for protection - I couldn't see it on my last visit to the area.]
4 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
FA Tom Proctor and Geoff Birtles April/68 FFA?Ron Fawcett, J Hesletine
**Infidel 80m E3 (R) (1978)
This route gains the main diagonal line of Deygo by a nice pitch on the right. Descend grass on the promontory to where it gets frightening, 10 metres above where the ramp drops away (a long abseil rope is useful to belay on).
1 25m. 5b. Climb diagonally left, on poor rock, and move up to two pegs. Go up and left to large holds, then follow them to the obvious groove and a belay on a small ledge.
2 40m. 5c. Step up and left into Deygo, peg, and follow it ?? to belay on Red Wall Escape route. (See Deygo)
3 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Atheist
Three men and a cake
Heathen
The Cruel Seam
*This is the Sea 45m E5 (R) (1987)
Start below the obvious central crackline, right of Heathen.
1 37m. 6a. Start the crack via the bulging wall, and continue in the same line to the first overlap. Go over this leftwards to a good foothold. Continue up the cracked wall, two pegs, to beneath the top overhang, poor peg. Go over the overhang, taking care with the rock, to better holds, and a poor belay in the crack.
2 8m. Work rightwards on grass to the arête, and go up to belay on top of the promontory.
*The Featherstone 45m E5 6b (R) (1988)
Start six metres right of the previous route, and climb the obvious leftward slanting crack, on good locks, to a prominent projection in the roof. Pull over the roof, then move up and left, with difficulty, to join This is The Sea. Finish up this on poor rock.
Howl the Trowel E7 6c 23m R
Start from the Left Hand Red Wall second belay.
Climb the wall left of Mein Kampf. Climb up towards the peg and make a hard move up a smooth wall to another peg. Committing moves up thin holds eventually lead to the top and cakes.
Twid and Al George,1991. Named after a trowel made by Al George and a very much howling Paul Jenkins after a night listening to the Dukes
**Mein Kampf 46m E5 (R) (1979)
Another loose and dirty start is followed by tricky, more solid climbing. Start as for Left Hand Red Wall.
1 23m. 5c. Climb up, as for Left Hand Red Wall, until a foot-traverse, on a flake about five metres up, leads rightwards into a depression of white (eek!) rock. Move right into a groove, and climb it to until a step left gains the belay of Left Hand Red Wall.
2 23m. 6a. Climb a flake crack, as for Left Hand Red Wall, then move left onto a small ledge. Go up and over a small overlap, twin stainless steel pegs, then climb left and go up on layaways, easing towards the top.
Another loose and dirty start is followed by tricky, more solid climbing. Start as for Left Hand Red Wall.
1 23m. 5c. Climb up, as for Left Hand Red Wall, until a foot-traverse, on a flake about five metres up, leads rightwards into a depression of white (eek!) rock. Move right into a groove, and climb it to until a step left gains the belay of Left Hand Red Wall.
2 23m. 6a. Climb a flake crack, as for Left Hand Red Wall, then move left onto a small ledge. Go up and over a small overlap, twin stainless steel pegs, then climb left and go up on layaways, easing towards the top.
Jim Moran, D (smiler) Cuthbertson, P Williams.25/8/79
Variations:
Variations:
Mein Kampf DirectE5 6a 23m R
2a.This pitch can be climbed direct up the wall from the belay to the overlap. A little bolder, but still the same grade. Paul Pritchard. (1986).
Mein Shaft E6 6b 23m R
2a. 23m. Follow Mein Kampf Direct to the twin stainless steel pegs. Climb directly up the hairy wall above, crux, between Mein Kampf and Ramalina.
Grant Farquhar, Wills Young (on-sight). (2/10/97).
Heart of Gold *** E5 R
Whatta route! The main pitch blasts up the middle of left-hand red wall in magnificent positions. The hors d’oeuvres is no push-over. Start two-thirds of the way down the grassy ramp (40m abseil), an obvious tottering Talc and Quartz groove marks the line of Left Hand Red Wall.
1. 6a. 17m. Up Left Hand Red Wall for 3m then head out rightwards from a rattley flake to reach protection. Make committing moves right, then right and up to a small ledge. With ingenuity, a good belay can be constructed hanging below the ledge.
2. 6a. 40m. Go up to an overlap, good large wire, crimp (technical crux) to a stopping place then sprint directly to a small spike. (Heart of Gold Original traverses right from the stopping place to the base of a left leaning groove and climbs this, good rest, to the small spike. Less logical and no easier). Move left to a larger spike and good rest. Enjoy the view! Gain and follow a crack up and rightwards to a small ledge then move up to a niche where LH Red Wall joins from the left. Up this, trending rightwards, to the top.
FA Mick Fowler and ........(1978). Direct: Paul Prichard (1986)
The Super Calabrese E6 R
The original first pitch looks about E6 but it may well be tough, it is unrepeated in it's current state and looks completely crap; much better to do the Super-Duper start which makes the route a brilliant outing.
1.17m.6b. Start just down the rake from Heart of Gold underneath a seeping roof. Traverse horizontally rightwards a little way under the roof to a birdy shelf. Clip the crap peg above and then pull through the roof to gain a groove. Climb the groove trending rightwards to the Heart of Gold belay.
2.15m.6a. Follow a thin seam up and rightwards with increasing difficulty to the original belay of The Enchanted Broccoli Garden.
2.15m.6a. Follow a thin seam up and rightwards with increasing difficulty to the original belay of The Enchanted Broccoli Garden.
3.40m.6a."The Astro-Turf pitch". Move left wards from the belay to good kit in a shallow groove. Exit this slightly rightwards then climb straight up the golden wall on pockets to enter a large scoop from the right. Exit this leftwards and continue up rubble to the top.
P.Pritchard and ?, 1987 (over three separate days)
Second ascent by Twid and ?,
The Super-Duper Calabrese *** E6 R
This is a essentially a wild variation on pitch one that looks far better than the original and should open up the whole route to get the attention it deserves.
1.17m.6b. Start just left of the original and pull through the roof rightwards to gain a juggy flake, arrange bomber protection then traverse wildly above the lip of the roof on huge holds until a powerful sequence leads up into the groove of the original route, this can then be followed to the top.
1.17m.6b. Start just left of the original and pull through the roof rightwards to gain a juggy flake, arrange bomber protection then traverse wildly above the lip of the roof on huge holds until a powerful sequence leads up into the groove of the original route, this can then be followed to the top.
N.Dickson and J.McHaffie 25/8/07 (Ground up with two falls as quartz holds broke, whats left is now solid)
The Enchanted Broccoli Garden E6 *** R
An epic outing through some amazing territory. Start from the vegetated ramp beneath the wall, reached by abseil. An obvious feature on the wall is a horizontal break which cuts across rightwards from the ramp. Heart of Gold pitch 1 traverses above this and The Super pitch 1 traverses below it. Start down and right off the ramp beneath a ridiculously impregnable looking overhanging wall.
1.40m.6b. This pitch features some soft rock but is solid in the grade. From the ramp traverse in rightwards to a spike/pinnacle feature in the centre of the wall. Arrange protection here. Continue directly on good but sandy holds to enter a small groove. Climb this to a no-hands rest on a ledge in the horizontal break beneath an overhang. There is good but awkward to arrange protection over the lip. Surmount the overhang and continue up the steep wall above past some small wires to an impasse. Make some tricky moves past the difficulties to easier but still pumpy ground above. Fight through this fairly hostile environment to easier ground onThe Missionary. There is now a choice of belays. The original "non" belay involves traversing left to a good spike with peg runner above. The first ascentionists belayed off the peg and standing on the spike which may be more stylish but less safe than belayed hanging off the spike and equalised to the peg and other runners nearby. Alternatively continue directly to gain a square cut ledge (10 feet up the original second pitch) which provides a bomb-proof belay.
2.40m.6b. From the square cut ledge, climb directly up on the vertical wall just left of a shallow groove. Bold, thin and tricky moves lead to a good jug. More bold, thin and tricky moves lead to easier ground. Continue directly to the top. Proceed directly to the pub and get pissed.
P.Pritchard and Moose Thomas, 1986.
Has had numerous on-sight repeats.
***Pagan 92m E4 (R) (1973)
A real adventure!! A series of taxing pitches make this one of the best wall climbs at Gogarth. Mentally challenging with intricate route finding on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Start about 25 metres above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21m. 5b. Traverse diagonally right on reasonably solid holds to a sandy groove and ledge beyond. New and old peg in sandy groove. Climb awkwardly up into the obvious dusty slanting chimney passing an old rusty RURP, then pull steeply right on good holds to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts, backed up by an essential 3.5 friend.
2 28m. 5c. Climb up trending slightly right for three metres on dubious holds passing an ancient jammed nut (as for Deygo). Move leftwards along a grotty break to gain a standing position on a protruding ledge - good gear. Climb up following aright trending diagonal weakness. After 10 meters, pull steeply left over a small overlap to a ledge then follow the obvious vegetated ramp right to its top and a hanging belay on a large flake and spike.
3 43m. 5c. Move right, level with the belay, along a ledge until it just about stops. Climb a depression, passing an ancient jammed nut to a sloping ledge. Traverse 10m left (dropping down a little, then moving back up) on great rock to a obvious good nut slot (7 or 8 rock). Move up and trend boldly rightwards into a shallow depression below an obvious rubbly break. Attain the lip of the break and hand traverse rightwards until it is possible to climb into the break. Follow the break up rightwards to a final mud/grass/rock finish. Breath out and imagine what the route must have been like in 1973 without cams!
Pat Littlejohn 1973
**Salem 83m E4 (R) (1987)
A nice eliminate, filling a gap on the wall. Start as for Pagan, about 25 metres above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21 m. 5b. As for Pagan, pitch 1. Traverse right to a small ledge, and continue right to gain an obvious dusty slanting chimney. Ascend this, on the right side, to a RURP, and pull steeply right to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts (backed up by cams).
2 28m. 5c. Follow Deygo for ten metres to the square-cut ledge, and break out left on a handrail. Go up a pleasant wall to a short left-facing groove. Ascend this then step left to belay on spikes, as for Pagan or belay on the RHS of the ledge (friend 2 1/2).
3 34m. 6a. Follow Pagan to the sloping ledge until moves right and up gain a ledge, hidden peg (missing 15-Sep-07). Make a difficult move into the short hanging groove above ( easier from the left) , and follow it to finish.
A real adventure!! A series of taxing pitches make this one of the best wall climbs at Gogarth. Mentally challenging with intricate route finding on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Start about 25 metres above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21m. 5b. Traverse diagonally right on reasonably solid holds to a sandy groove and ledge beyond. New and old peg in sandy groove. Climb awkwardly up into the obvious dusty slanting chimney passing an old rusty RURP, then pull steeply right on good holds to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts, backed up by an essential 3.5 friend.
2 28m. 5c. Climb up trending slightly right for three metres on dubious holds passing an ancient jammed nut (as for Deygo). Move leftwards along a grotty break to gain a standing position on a protruding ledge - good gear. Climb up following aright trending diagonal weakness. After 10 meters, pull steeply left over a small overlap to a ledge then follow the obvious vegetated ramp right to its top and a hanging belay on a large flake and spike.
3 43m. 5c. Move right, level with the belay, along a ledge until it just about stops. Climb a depression, passing an ancient jammed nut to a sloping ledge. Traverse 10m left (dropping down a little, then moving back up) on great rock to a obvious good nut slot (7 or 8 rock). Move up and trend boldly rightwards into a shallow depression below an obvious rubbly break. Attain the lip of the break and hand traverse rightwards until it is possible to climb into the break. Follow the break up rightwards to a final mud/grass/rock finish. Breath out and imagine what the route must have been like in 1973 without cams!
Pat Littlejohn 1973
**Salem 83m E4 (R) (1987)
A nice eliminate, filling a gap on the wall. Start as for Pagan, about 25 metres above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21 m. 5b. As for Pagan, pitch 1. Traverse right to a small ledge, and continue right to gain an obvious dusty slanting chimney. Ascend this, on the right side, to a RURP, and pull steeply right to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts (backed up by cams).
2 28m. 5c. Follow Deygo for ten metres to the square-cut ledge, and break out left on a handrail. Go up a pleasant wall to a short left-facing groove. Ascend this then step left to belay on spikes, as for Pagan or belay on the RHS of the ledge (friend 2 1/2).
3 34m. 6a. Follow Pagan to the sloping ledge until moves right and up gain a ledge, hidden peg (missing 15-Sep-07). Make a difficult move into the short hanging groove above ( easier from the left) , and follow it to finish.
Named after the famous painting by Vosper
Paul Pritchard and Piggy Johnstone, 1986
***Deygo 102m E3 (R) (1968/1973)
A very good route, with its fair share of serious and strenuous climbing, following the most striking line of weakness, slanting rightwards up the full height of the wall. Start about 25m above the sea, just above where the grass ends.
1 21 m. 5b. As for Pagan, pitch 1. Traverse right to a small ledge, and continue right to gain an obvious dusty slanting chimney. Ascend this, on the right side, to a RURP, and pull steeply right to a stance and belay on decaying pegs and bolts (backed up by cams).
2 21 m. 5b. Step right and climb the shallow chimney, moving left over a slight bulge to a peg. Carry on up the up the shattered crack to a square-cut ledge, then step right to a peg in a groove. Climb the groove to a small stance on easier ground.
3 35m. 5c. Climb up above the belay for three metres to a peg where the angle eases slightly. Follow the striking crack, past a few more pegs, to a belay on a sloping ramp, Red Wall Escape Route. (Doesn't the original line traverse right out of the diagonal crack short of the top where it is joined by Anarchist? The description here sounds like Infidel which follows the "striking crack" in its upper reaches I think)
[The 1977 Alec Sharp guide clearly shows a traverse right to the area of Anarchist (Not done at the time obviously) Ther used to be a metal "horn" that you could lasoo for protection - I couldn't see it on my last visit to the area.]
4 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
FA Tom Proctor and Geoff Birtles April/68 FFA?Ron Fawcett, J Hesletine
Yarding Lard 100m E6
Start at the bottom of the zawn, about 7 metres left of Come to Mother.
1 40m. 6b. Step across the void and climb straight up to two pegs. Launch over the roof and up the crack above. Move left into Pagan just below the obvious white ledge. Step off the right hand end and climb the sand pit to the Pagan stance.
2 30m. 6a. Follow the sandy break out right to the obvious sandy cave. Step right and climb the pocketed red wall, with good gear, to the Infidel belay.
335m. 5c. Climb straight up to the horn (now gone) and move above to a hand jamming crack, left of Anarchist.
M.Turner, Steve Hartland. (8/95).
Come to Mother
Has fallen down.
The next routes are accessed from The Promontory
**Infidel 80m E3 (R) (1978)
This route gains the main diagonal line of Deygo by a nice pitch on the right. Descend grass on the promontory to where it gets frightening, 10 metres above where the ramp drops away (a long abseil rope is useful to belay on).
1 25m. 5b. Climb diagonally left, on poor rock, and move up to two pegs. Go up and left to large holds, then follow them to the obvious groove and a belay on a small ledge.
2 40m. 5c. Step up and left into Deygo, peg, and follow it ?? to belay on Red Wall Escape route. (See Deygo)
3 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Variation
Infidel Direct
*Outside the Asylum 50m E5 (R) (1988)
Surprisingly independent with good protection. Sustained and with intricate route finding - a superb pitch. Start at a pinnacle on the ramp, between Infidel and Anarchist.
1 30m. 6a. Climb carefully onto the pinnacle, and step left to a ledge. Move up and left around a steep rib, past a slot, and go up to a peg. Climb the wall direct for ten metres to a small ledge. Go rightwards to join Anarchist at the detached flake and follow this to belay on the ramp of Red Wall Escape route.
2 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Surprisingly independent with good protection. Sustained and with intricate route finding - a superb pitch. Start at a pinnacle on the ramp, between Infidel and Anarchist.
1 30m. 6a. Climb carefully onto the pinnacle, and step left to a ledge. Move up and left around a steep rib, past a slot, and go up to a peg. Climb the wall direct for ten metres to a small ledge. Go rightwards to join Anarchist at the detached flake and follow this to belay on the ramp of Red Wall Escape route.
2 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Care in the Community 30m E5 6a
Start below a spike, as for Outside the Asylum. Climb up the right side of the spike and move left to clip the peg on Outside the Asylum. Climb directly up the corner groove above, over a small overlap and up the wall to a horizontal break at 17 metres. Step right and make increasingly hard moves up the wall, right of a black streak, to arrive below the finishing crack of Anarchist. Move right, hands in the break, and climb the flake just left of the arête, exciting, to belay on the ledge, on the escape route.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/10/95)
*Anarchist 57m E1 (R) (1978)
Slight, but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil.
1 37m. 5b. Traverse left to a series of grooves and ledges. Climb these to a detached flake, the top of which can be gained by a semi-mantle move (the s/s peg here is obvious from the promontary). Climb up to a small overlap and traverse right into a niche (crux). Follow the steep crack above to a good ledge on Red Wall Escape Route.
2 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Variations:
Slight, but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil.
1 37m. 5b. Traverse left to a series of grooves and ledges. Climb these to a detached flake, the top of which can be gained by a semi-mantle move (the s/s peg here is obvious from the promontary). Climb up to a small overlap and traverse right into a niche (crux). Follow the steep crack above to a good ledge on Red Wall Escape Route.
2 20m. 4c. Finish as for Red Wall Escape Route, up the grassy ramp and slab above.
Variations:
Direct Start E3 (R) (1989)
1a 40m. 6a. Starting up Outside the Asylum, follow a corner straight up into Anarchist. May share some common ground with Care in the Community?
1a 40m. 6a. Starting up Outside the Asylum, follow a corner straight up into Anarchist. May share some common ground with Care in the Community?
M.Turner, A.George(1989)
Variation Finish 50m. E2 (R) (1987)
1b 50m. 5c. Just because you can! Follow Anarchist until it is possible to traverse across into Deygo. Climb Deygo for five metres then follow a traverse line left to ledges farther left. Climb the pillar to belay as the rope runs out!
Variation Finish 50m. E2 (R) (1987)
1b 50m. 5c. Just because you can! Follow Anarchist until it is possible to traverse across into Deygo. Climb Deygo for five metres then follow a traverse line left to ledges farther left. Climb the pillar to belay as the rope runs out!
***The Missionary 92m E4 (R) (1978)
A really worthwhile girdle, for its fantastic positions and tremendous exposure. Start as for Anarchist.
1 34m. 5c. Follow Anarchist to a horizontal crack, which leads left to the hanging stance on Pagan, pitch 2.
2 28m. 5c. Descend the layback flake on Pagan, then go left and up to a protruding ledge, level with the stance. A diagonal descent leftwards leads to a shallow groove on Heart of Gold. Climb this to a spike, step down left, and continue traversing to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall.
3 30m. 5b. Step down from the stance, and move left onto poor rock. Continue leftwards, across Cannibal, descending slightly until it is possible to cross a rib, and move up to a ledge line. Follow this, then step down and continue the traverse, passing large spikes, to finish up the left arête of the wall.
A really worthwhile girdle, for its fantastic positions and tremendous exposure. Start as for Anarchist.
1 34m. 5c. Follow Anarchist to a horizontal crack, which leads left to the hanging stance on Pagan, pitch 2.
2 28m. 5c. Descend the layback flake on Pagan, then go left and up to a protruding ledge, level with the stance. A diagonal descent leftwards leads to a shallow groove on Heart of Gold. Climb this to a spike, step down left, and continue traversing to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall.
3 30m. 5b. Step down from the stance, and move left onto poor rock. Continue leftwards, across Cannibal, descending slightly until it is possible to cross a rib, and move up to a ledge line. Follow this, then step down and continue the traverse, passing large spikes, to finish up the left arête of the wall.
See above for description of this route left to right as part of the full girdle of the two red walls.
Girdle
The Promontory
Puritan
Atheist
Three men and a cake
Heathen
The Cruel Seam
*This is the Sea 45m E5 (R) (1987)
Start below the obvious central crackline, right of Heathen.
1 37m. 6a. Start the crack via the bulging wall, and continue in the same line to the first overlap. Go over this leftwards to a good foothold. Continue up the cracked wall, two pegs, to beneath the top overhang, poor peg. Go over the overhang, taking care with the rock, to better holds, and a poor belay in the crack.
2 8m. Work rightwards on grass to the arête, and go up to belay on top of the promontory.
*The Featherstone 45m E5 6b (R) (1988)
Start six metres right of the previous route, and climb the obvious leftward slanting crack, on good locks, to a prominent projection in the roof. Pull over the roof, then move up and left, with difficulty, to join This is The Sea. Finish up this on poor rock.
Red Warbler's 27m E4 6a
The continuation groove, as it were, in the south face of the promontory. Scramble round from the abseil. Swarm up the groove after a hard first move. Protection is every whimps dream.
G.Smith, J.Toombs, D.Holms, A.Wainwright, R.Kay, N.Dixon.(1st August 1996)
Into the Light
Snatch in the storm
Snatch in the storm
Chedi.Knight |
Latest page update: made by Chedi.Knight
, Aug 13 2008, 6:09 PM EDT
(about this update
About This Update
Edited by Chedi.Knight
46 words added view changes - complete history) |
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Keyword tags:
Left Hand Red Walls
More Info: links to this page
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| pete_robins | Deygo - Pagen | 5 | Oct 11 2007, 3:39 PM EDT by axleattack | ||
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Thread started: Feb 28 2007, 6:14 AM EST
Watch
The hardest/softest pitch on Pagen is the first and the route gets E4, so should Deygo also get E4. One for the Poll maybe...
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| pete_robins | The Enchanted Broccolli Garden | 7 | Sep 1 2007, 9:50 AM EDT by DaiLampard | ||
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Thread started: Feb 28 2007, 6:10 AM EST
Watch
E6 in my view for the first pitch (loose but easy climbing and gear everywhere), E4 for the secnd pitch (no bullshit - this is piss).
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| NeilDickson | The Super-Duper Calabrese | 1 | Aug 26 2007, 7:21 PM EDT by drevil | ||
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Thread started: Aug 26 2007, 6:01 AM EDT
Watch
Added a new start to the Super Calbrese yesterday which is really good; burly E6 6b. Took a couple of falls as large quartz holds broke off at the start but whats left is now solid. The upper pitches of the orginal route are E5 6a and E6 6a and the climbing is excerlent. The original start looks utterly crap and pointless, I've been down to look at it numerous times and it has always been very wet and birdy and would be prety serious. I doubt that it would be E8 though in any case!
Does know if the original start has been repeated? |
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Showing 3 of 8 threads for this page
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Anarchist.jpg (JPEG Image - 402k)
posted by drevil Mar 4 2007, 11:53 AM EST
Graeme Ettle on Anarchist
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Mein Shaft.jpg (JPEG Image - 302k)
posted by drevil Mar 4 2007, 11:49 AM EST
Wills Young following Mein Shaft on the first ascent.
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Brocolli Garden.jpg (JPEG Image - 427k)
posted by drevil Mar 4 2007, 11:47 AM EST
Steve Mayers and Crispin Waddy on a ground up repeat of The Enchanted Brocolli Garden. Crispin is on the original belay.
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