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Mordor 68m Hvs (1968)

Mordor Newydd

Roof Rack E7 6c 17m.

The roof above Seal Song. From a belay on the outer face of the Seal Song fin, go up to the break. Tug across the roof, passing good pegs (average peg near the lip). The crack above is eight grades easier but seems very difficult none the less.

G.Smith, attempts over several years I'm afraid. (1995).

Seal Song E5 50m (1988)

Colditz 30m VS 4c (1982)

Mistaken identity 35m HVS (1973)

Flytrap 82m E2 ***
A classic cave adventure, traversing in to, up, and out of the Flytrap zawn. Pitch 3 is usually damp in places. Abseil to sea-level at the foot of a pinnacle at low to mid-tide (as for Mordor).

1. 12m 4a. Climb up left on big holes to a ledge and belay (can be reached by abseil at high tide)
2. 25m 5a. From the left hand end of the ledge descend for five metres in to the zawn and make a descending traverse in to the back of the cave to the foot of a black groove.
3. 25m 5b/c. Climb up the groove, often damp, to a traverse line heading out righwards to the head of the cave. Follow the traverse in an increasingly exposed and impressive position, and make wild moves to good holds on the front of the chockstone at the top of the cave (crux). Belay on top of the chockstone.
4. 20m 4b. Climb the righthand wall for 6 metres then traverse right for 6 metres, finishing up a distinct crack.

J.Brown, P. Jewell, D.Cuthbertson 1 pt. aid (16/4/78)

Arachnid 30m E4 5c

The Porcelain Arena E6 50m.

An exceedingly traditional route, starting left of the cave and finishing at a giant chockstone, via the back of the cave. Start round ton the right of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.
1 6b. Ascend the initial chimney of The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes, then traverse right to the arête. Gain a slanting crack up and right with difficulty. This widens to a strenuous and awkward vice/pod which in turn leads to the roof of the cave. Belay.
2 5c. Either throw yourself into the sea, or arrange protection and traverse the wall to a point where it is possible to bridge the width of the zawn (or continue along the wall) to the top of the flytrap chockstone. An atmospheric pitch.
3 20m. 4b. As for Flytrap, pitch 3.

G.Smith, Simon Melia. (2003).

The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes E6 6b

Start at the right hand end of the tidal ledge beneath Arachnid. Climb up a chimney and break rightwards into the darkness, spinning round perhaps at some point (?) to find yourself at the Flytrap belay. Good gear and solid, but sharp black rock. All very weird and disorientating. Seconded accidentally by T Briggs (with a rest), when the belayer realised that a long lay off (years?) was probably not the best preparation for removing welded in wires whilst undercutting across a roof.
F.A: G.Smith

The Nemotode Strikes out E6 6b
From a belay on top of the Flytrap Chockstone, perform one (or more) laps of the chockstone. It is traditional to travel in, down, out and up.
FA: G.Smith.

The Ultraviolet Exterminator E7

F.A: G.Smith

Holyhead Revisited 35m E4 6a

20000 Leagues Under the Sea 20m E4 6a **

Climb the groove in the prominent hanging rib above deep water. Solid rock, excellent protection but sustained and pumpy. Why not just solo it?

Dai Lemming! E3/4 5c/6a 20m

Start 7 metres to the left of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, just right of The Hitcher. Climb up and right to gain a small triangular, then follow slim grooves to overlaps which lead to easier climbing and a break. Finish up the obvious compact headwall. The crux is about 10 metres up, above deep water at high tide and the rest of the route is fine. A very good solo (though a right hand start from 20,000… may be safer).

C.Waddy (solo). (2002?).Done before by Dai Lampard and Twid (mid 1990's).

The Hitcher - worth E1 5a/b.

Jug Patrol E1

This takes the flake crack some 3m left of The Hitcher, starting about 15m right of the highpoint on the traverse from Parliament House Cave.1 23m. 5b. Climb the steep pink flake to reach good holds and a ledge beneath the less steep wall. Move left and surmount the bulge, climbing gradually left to reach a niche on Route 66, ledge.2 20m. 4c. Climb the crack above the belay with care to reach the grassy slopes above. Belay on the abseil rope or blocks above.

M.Crook, A.Newton. (17/4/94).

Skippy E1 45m.

Between Jug Patrol and Oijee Wall is a left slanting chimney. Start 3 metres left of this.125m. 5b. Climb the wall left of the chimney up to a groove. Climb this to an overlap and make steep moves over it to belay on the ledge system of Route 66.2 20m. 4c. Take the slab above on big flakes to a grassy finish. Belay on blocks.

Tony Morley, Dave Ferguson. (8/4/97).

Oijee Wall 45m E1 5b (1988)

The Walls of Jericho

Route 66

Point Blank