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Yellow Walls
Yellow Walls 
Book of Ages E5
A line I had climbed previously for its first pitch many years ago, now with an independent second pitch. Well protected with excellent rock.
1. 6b. Start below the groove of The Savage and take the undercut arete between that route and Perygl. The arete leads to a junction with Perygl under a roof, Perygl goes out right. Book of Ages goes goes straight over the roof above. Interesting moves reach the slab and belay above.
2. 6a. Step left into the bottomless groove and climb it direct to the obvious crack above. Finish as for The Savage direct for the last few feet.
An excellent well protected route.
Twid Turner and Louise Turner
A name reflecting the time taken for the next guide book to the area.
Me E6 ***
The Cow. E5 ***
Spectacular and well-protected. Mostly very reasonable for the grade apart from the flake-crack. Those with a traditional ‘thin hands’ jamming competency and finding dry conditions will romp up this too; it is more usual to thrash and dangle. Start as for The Moon, below a left to right diagonal overhanging flake-crack where it all gets steep.
1. 35m. 6a. Up trending rightwards to the overhanging crack. If you are lucky this will only be damp. Grapple with the crack (good training for Astroman…or vice versa?) into the easier continuation groove. Traverse right to an open corner and right again around the arête and go up to belay as for The Moon.
2. 30m. 5c. Launch straight over the overhang above the stance into a niche. Go over another roof into a groove leading to a slab and terra firma.
Dave Pearce and Paul Trower, (2 points aid) 26/6 and 10/7/1976.
The Owl and the Pussy Cat E6 ** Ludwig E6 ***
Stood at the bottom of these cliffs is a very intimidating place to be. It appears to overhang in every angle. Fortunately it is just an optical illusion and some cracking extremes breach this steep and complex cliff in a reasonable fashion. It's southern orientation and concave topology means it can be a good venue on a cold and windy day, catching any sun going and sheltered even when it is blowing a hoolie in the cafe car-park. It is possible to approach by a long scramble and sea-level traverse but it is easier to abseil in near the line of The Savage to steep scrambly terrain. It may be advisable to leave the ab rope in-situ in case of failure. The routes are multi-pitch, often traversing and very, very steep so in case you end up dangling in space, you need to carry with you a means of ascending the rope e.g. ascenders, jumars, gri-gris, belay devices, slings, prusiks, shoe-laces, faith in god, brute strength or a combination of the above.
The Savage E2*
A fine introduction to the peculiar delights of Yellow Wall.
A good route for those undecided days: an escape up the ab rope is always possible.
Protection is adequate but it can be tiresome to place in the hard sections.
The overall situation warrants an increase in grade (as suggested in "North Wales Rock" selected guide).
1. 30m. 5a/b. From the end of the abseil, climb to the base of a corner capped by a diagonal roof. Climb this, then break out right under the overhang (with an increasing degree of difficulty / urgency) to pull up onto a slab. Move right to belay at the base of a groove (NB this single pitch combines the original first two...much more sensible).
2. 20m. 5b. Climb the groove for a couple of moves. Move left to a quartz crack (runners) carry on left for another 3 meters (very steep territory) to reach an obvious spike. Move up (feet on spike) to reach a resting position (thankfully). Traverse diagonally left to reach an an obvious break that runs back right to the top (dirty in places). It is also possible to take a direct finish up the slightly overhanging crack above the break.
(See topo above - taken from hyperlink and revamped for comparison)
The Holliwell brothers, 1969
A fine introduction to the peculiar delights of Yellow Wall.
A good route for those undecided days: an escape up the ab rope is always possible.
Protection is adequate but it can be tiresome to place in the hard sections.
The overall situation warrants an increase in grade (as suggested in "North Wales Rock" selected guide).
1. 30m. 5a/b. From the end of the abseil, climb to the base of a corner capped by a diagonal roof. Climb this, then break out right under the overhang (with an increasing degree of difficulty / urgency) to pull up onto a slab. Move right to belay at the base of a groove (NB this single pitch combines the original first two...much more sensible).
2. 20m. 5b. Climb the groove for a couple of moves. Move left to a quartz crack (runners) carry on left for another 3 meters (very steep territory) to reach an obvious spike. Move up (feet on spike) to reach a resting position (thankfully). Traverse diagonally left to reach an an obvious break that runs back right to the top (dirty in places). It is also possible to take a direct finish up the slightly overhanging crack above the break.
(See topo above - taken from hyperlink and revamped for comparison)
The Holliwell brothers, 1969
Book of Ages E5
A line I had climbed previously for its first pitch many years ago, now with an independent second pitch. Well protected with excellent rock.
1. 6b. Start below the groove of The Savage and take the undercut arete between that route and Perygl. The arete leads to a junction with Perygl under a roof, Perygl goes out right. Book of Ages goes goes straight over the roof above. Interesting moves reach the slab and belay above.
2. 6a. Step left into the bottomless groove and climb it direct to the obvious crack above. Finish as for The Savage direct for the last few feet.
An excellent well protected route.
Twid Turner and Louise Turner
A name reflecting the time taken for the next guide book to the area.
Perygl E3 *
Another excellent Yellow Wall excursion without too much danger.
The Drunk E6 *
A good but unbalanced route, if it wasn't for a fierce few moves on Pitch 2, it would be about E3. Start beneath a short corner on the left side of the wall.
1. 10m. 4c. As for The Moon. Climb the short corner and belay on a ledge/cave (occasional seagulls).
2. 20m. 6b. Follow the slanting cracks rightwards for 2m then attempt to break left throught the 'line of weakness' in the roof. Yes, that was the crux. Pleasantly stroll on up the slab above and a belay shared with Perygl.
3 25m. 5b. As for Perygl Pitch 3.
1. 10m. 4c. As for The Moon. Climb the short corner and belay on a ledge/cave (occasional seagulls).
2. 20m. 6b. Follow the slanting cracks rightwards for 2m then attempt to break left throught the 'line of weakness' in the roof. Yes, that was the crux. Pleasantly stroll on up the slab above and a belay shared with Perygl.
3 25m. 5b. As for Perygl Pitch 3.
S.Haston 1986
The Moon E3 ***
Thoroughly deserving its classic status. It has exposure, committment and uncertainty in abundance. Start beneath a short corner on the left side of the wall.
1. 10m. 4c.A 'harder than it looks' pitch. Climb into the cave (occasional seagulls) to take a belay.
2. 30m. 5c. The Pitch! Fabulous to lead, and tough to second...this is the essential Gogarth experience. Most people find enough reserves and determination to hang on. A great lead for the 'thinking climber'...thugs may come unstuck! Break out right from the belay and continue traversing rightwards and upwards, always finding the easiest passage. A final tricky traverse right enables the belay to be clocked; an exposed blocky ledge in the middle of the wall and shared with most other routes acting as a central hub.
3. 30m. 5b. An appropriate finale: great holds and biting exposure in a safe situation: savour this pitch. Best done in the teeth of a gathering storm. Intuitively follow the twin cracks in the rightwards rising rampline. Steeper and more awkward than it looks.
Thoroughly deserving its classic status. It has exposure, committment and uncertainty in abundance. Start beneath a short corner on the left side of the wall.
1. 10m. 4c.A 'harder than it looks' pitch. Climb into the cave (occasional seagulls) to take a belay.
2. 30m. 5c. The Pitch! Fabulous to lead, and tough to second...this is the essential Gogarth experience. Most people find enough reserves and determination to hang on. A great lead for the 'thinking climber'...thugs may come unstuck! Break out right from the belay and continue traversing rightwards and upwards, always finding the easiest passage. A final tricky traverse right enables the belay to be clocked; an exposed blocky ledge in the middle of the wall and shared with most other routes acting as a central hub.
3. 30m. 5b. An appropriate finale: great holds and biting exposure in a safe situation: savour this pitch. Best done in the teeth of a gathering storm. Intuitively follow the twin cracks in the rightwards rising rampline. Steeper and more awkward than it looks.
E.Drummond, A.Barley,1971
Me E6 ***
A meandering excursion through the yellow steepness culminating in one of the best E6 pitches around.
1.15m. 4c. The Moon pitch 1.
2.30m. 5c.Traverse right under The Moon along cramped ledges to join The Cow. Follow the (Judas) Cow to the Moon/Cow belay.
3.10m. 5b/c. Step down from the belay and reverse Creeping Lemma pitch 2 rightwards towards ledges atop the promontory. Belay on the traverse before the apex of the promontory and below an amazing golden groove left of Dogs of War.
4. 43m. 6a. A magnificent pitch which can also be gained from the promontory of The Sind/Creeping Lemma. Very pumpy funky climbing. The rock is softish in places but protection is adequate providing a large rack is carried. Starting from a belay 3 m below the peg on Creeping Leema, climb up to an overlap and rock around this onto a hanging slab/groove, which is then followed rightwards to below two peg runners. Steep and committing moves rightwards (crux) crossing a bottomless groove leads to a rest. Pull back left onto another slab/groove and finish direct past a precarious block to the top.
S.Haston, R.Kay and C.Dale, 6/86
Direct Start to pitch 4 (as described) byTwid and Louise Thomas
The Cow. E5 ***
Spectacular and well-protected. Mostly very reasonable for the grade apart from the flake-crack. Those with a traditional ‘thin hands’ jamming competency and finding dry conditions will romp up this too; it is more usual to thrash and dangle. Start as for The Moon, below a left to right diagonal overhanging flake-crack where it all gets steep.
1. 35m. 6a. Up trending rightwards to the overhanging crack. If you are lucky this will only be damp. Grapple with the crack (good training for Astroman…or vice versa?) into the easier continuation groove. Traverse right to an open corner and right again around the arête and go up to belay as for The Moon.
2. 30m. 5c. Launch straight over the overhang above the stance into a niche. Go over another roof into a groove leading to a slab and terra firma.
Dave Pearce and Paul Trower, (2 points aid) 26/6 and 10/7/1976.
The Owl and the Pussy Cat E6 **
Start as for The Cow.
1. 6b. Climb The Cow to a rest on a spike, just past its crux. Climb up and left (sloping mantle) to meet Me. Go up the vague groove to the roof and pull up right to big jug (wire #9). Follow the hanging prow to the golden slab of The Moon, belay
.2. 6a. Climb the groove direct which Perygl top pitch traverses into. Climb straight up and move right to base of groove (bold), RP's. Go up groove to top.
M.Turner, Ian McNeill. 1992.
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Another Yellow Wall classic that finishes up the bottomless overhanging groove above the traverse of The Moon.
1. 20m. 5a. Follow the highest traverse line to belay below and right of a cave/overhang in the wall above, just over halfway to the promontory of The Sind/Creeping Lemma. Cams useful on the belay.
2. 25m. 6a. Gain the cave steeply from the right to reach a peg. On 18/7/9 this peg was noted to be extremely shit by now and unlikely to hold a fall. Good effort placing it in EBs in 1978 though! Exit leftwards and continue to reach the Moon/Cow belay. This pitch is E5 6a and often wet.
3. 30m. 6b. Reverse the second pitch of The Moon leftwards until underneath the groove. Ferocious moves entering the groove form the crux. If successful, you will not find it difficult to see where to go next. Protection once established in the groove is good, although the rock is fragile in places.
M.Fowler and M.Morrison,1978 3 points aid. FFA A.Pollit and S.Andrews,1984
Beefhoven E6
The Yellow Shark E7 6b 35m **
The Sind E3 **
Beefhoven E6
A line based on the arête between the top grooves of The Cow and Ludwig. Strenuous climbing on an awesome position, though escapable at times.
1. 5c. Climb up a sandy wall, to the right of Ludwig, to a ledge. Go up to an undercut flaky crack then strenuously pull up and slightly left to meet The Cow. Follow this to the belay.
2. 6b. Follow Ludwig round onto the red hanging slab then step right to beneath the overhanging arête. Pull over the bulge to gain a sandy break which leads wildly up the arête to better holds and a rest in a fine position. Carry on up on crumbly holds to join Ludwig at the top
M.Turner, P. Robins. (AL) (2005)
The Yellow Shark E7 6b 35m **
Takes an obvious diagonal line to finish up the hooded square cut groove between the top sections of Me and Isis is Angry. Strenuous and bold. Start from the Moon/Cow hanging belay. Head out rightwards along the ramp, below the top pitch of The Moon, to join Me at the two pegs. Continue easily up this for 7 metres to a spike on the left. Trend out right to a ledge and continue to the base of the groove (cunning no hands head jam). Difficult moves, crux, with massive fall potential, lead into the groove. Follow this to the capping bulge, traverse right and move up to jugs. Finish easily.
G.Farquhar, M.Turner, A.Perkins.(26/9/93).
Isis is Angry E6 **
Two serious and slightly pointless pitches allow the purist to gain the promontory from the beach. From here the superb top pitch which is of comparable difficulty to Me lies between you and the Cafe. Alternatively the promontory can be gained by abseil and the main pitch climbed in it's own right which will make more sense to most!
1. 5c. This pitch famously "takes no prisoners". It starts from the boudler below the horrific territory above. Cross a wet slab and then climb a short flake onto a ledge containing some grass cauliflowers. Climb the open scoop above trending rightwards utilising a four to one mixture of shale and cement to reach some flakes on an arete. Move up to large quartz holds then traverse back left and move down to belay on blocks.
1. 5c. This pitch famously "takes no prisoners". It starts from the boudler below the horrific territory above. Cross a wet slab and then climb a short flake onto a ledge containing some grass cauliflowers. Climb the open scoop above trending rightwards utilising a four to one mixture of shale and cement to reach some flakes on an arete. Move up to large quartz holds then traverse back left and move down to belay on blocks.
2. 5b. Move rightwards of the belay and up a short crack to gain the most obvious left to right traverse line. Follow this to the promontory and move up to it's apex.
3. 6b. Start 4 meters right of the Sind. Climb up to a niche, then pull round leftwards onto the Sind's golden slab. Climb this for a couple of meters before moving left to beneath a small roof, pull through this and follow a flake/crack to the large roof of Dog's of War. Place some bomber runners then commit to the groove system straight above and follow it without respite to the top.
S.Haston and R.Kay 7/86
S.Haston and R.Kay 7/86
Creeping Lemma E2 ***
Neither for the faint of heart, nor those with a 'sport' mentality, despite this being fine sport indeed!
1. 4c. Easy, but all the more frightening for the lack of decent gear. A leftwards traverse across the grey wall into a groove, and then up.
2. 5b.I know at least one E5 leader who couldn't do this, but it really *is* only 5b! Easy climbing across the ledges to the narrowing at the corner. Cunning, rather than crimping, will pay dividends here.
3. 5c. Now it gets hard! Continue with your leftwards progress, reversing the slab of The Moon, to make hard moves up and left through bulging rock to a groove and relief.
1. 4c. Easy, but all the more frightening for the lack of decent gear. A leftwards traverse across the grey wall into a groove, and then up.
2. 5b.I know at least one E5 leader who couldn't do this, but it really *is* only 5b! Easy climbing across the ledges to the narrowing at the corner. Cunning, rather than crimping, will pay dividends here.
3. 5c. Now it gets hard! Continue with your leftwards progress, reversing the slab of The Moon, to make hard moves up and left through bulging rock to a groove and relief.
A.Sharp, S.Humphries, 1974
Dogs of War E4 **
I nearly killed my belayer as I led the second pitch; be careful out there! Take plenty of slings. This is a very spooky experience.
1. 5b. Traverse out right along the higher quartzy line of weakness, taking care with the ropes. Belay securely beneath a small roof. This protects you from inevitable and dangerous debris.
2. 5c. Climb up and left to the base of a groove; the commitment begins here. The way ahead is obvious, but there are many hazards en route. Proceed with as much caution and lightness of step as you can muster. Once past the big roof and into the final groove, the horror eases.
1. 5b. Traverse out right along the higher quartzy line of weakness, taking care with the ropes. Belay securely beneath a small roof. This protects you from inevitable and dangerous debris.
2. 5c. Climb up and left to the base of a groove; the commitment begins here. The way ahead is obvious, but there are many hazards en route. Proceed with as much caution and lightness of step as you can muster. Once past the big roof and into the final groove, the horror eases.
M.Howells, P.Trower, on-sight (1PA). FFA P.Boardman, J.Tasker
The Sind E3 **
This route takes a stunning diagonal line. Start from the steep ground below the crag gained by abseil.
1. 5a. Follow the obvious lower diagonal break, taking the easiest line to gain the apex of the large promontory.
2. 5b. The diagonal line continues up the obvious golden slab above the promontory. Gain the slab from the left and follow it with interest all the way to the top. Sustained sandiness with lots of runners in softish rock.
J.Brown
1. 5a. Follow the obvious lower diagonal break, taking the easiest line to gain the apex of the large promontory.
2. 5b. The diagonal line continues up the obvious golden slab above the promontory. Gain the slab from the left and follow it with interest all the way to the top. Sustained sandiness with lots of runners in softish rock.
J.Brown
Paddington E3
? If you have done this route ever then please write a description.
Pterodactyl E3
? If you have done this route ever then please write a description.
The Big Softy E6 6a 45m
Start on the ridge below the last pitch of The Sind. Start as for Paddington and climb across a sandy wall to a sort of rest/ledge at the base of a groove. Climb up left (poor gear) and up in a parallel line to The Sind, aiming for an obvious nose of rock.
M.Turner, Andy 'barman'. (6/94).
93,000,000 Miles E4 60m *
An intricate climb which weaves its way up the wall, right of Pterodactyl. As runout as heaven is wide. Start 25 metres down the ramp from Pterodactyl at a block belay.
1 45m. 5c. Ascend up and right, following cracks, with gear, onto the edge of the wall. Go straight up past a small recess and through a bulge to a no-hands rest (hidden peg on a small ledge just above). Step back down and traverse left then go straight up until level with the Paddington/ Pterodactyl belay. (Possible to traverse left and place bad runners here - cam #4 useful). Now trend off up and right for a few miles to a small spike, crux. Go up and right again to a ledge and peg belay.
2 15m. 5c. From the stance, move up and right to a pair of Siamese pegs. Crank straight up the steep wall to finish in a groove. A bit spooky.
Paul Pritchard, Ian Wilson, Debbie Quinn. (15/7/96).
Sign of the Sun Dog E5 60m *
A wandering and varied route up the very right arête of the Yellow Wall, Scary, technical and strenuous.
1 40m. 6b. Follow 93,000,000 Miles to the first peg. Step up and go right onto the flying arête, second peg and small wires. Make weird moves up and run it out in space to a ledge and peg belay, on 93,000,000 Miles.
2 20m. 6b. Move up and clip the pegs on 93,000,000 Miles and come back down. Make a hard traverse right under a roof and gain a huge flake (like a mirror image of Schittlegruber). Go up the flake to a horror niche, then right again to finish on the arête with much exposure.
Paul Pritchard, Leigh McGinley (AL), Tom Leppert. (17th & 18th of July, 1996 - one bivy in Llanberis).
Not Yellow Wall Escape Route HVS 80m.
This route takes the right arête of the bay containing Yellow Wall and can be reached through the tunnel or by abseil. For those of you familiar with Red Wall Escape Route, this route offers a similar sort of experience on snappy rock with abundant vegetation thrown in.
1 33m. 4b. From the boulder beach, climb the arête and a small bulge to a bubble ledge. Move right and belay on a spike.
2 20m. 4a. Climb the groove behind the spike and move back left to the arête. Go up the grassy groove to belay.
3 27m. 4c. Climb the wall to a large spike. Step off this onto another wall and follow a rising rightwards traverse on Red Wall type rock to the top.
Dave Ferguson, Bob Wightman. (12/7/97).
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Keyword tags:
gogarth - Yellow Walls
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| nickbullock | Yellow Shark. | 0 | Aug 8 2009, 4:33 AM EDT by nickbullock | ||
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Thread started: Aug 8 2009, 4:33 AM EDT
Watch
Climbed this with Caff a few weeks ago. A pumpy little number. The first half getting to the pegs on ME is really blind and the description should probably say climb the initial groove high, blindly pulling up to good holds. Squirm along a ledge before dropping down to the pegs from directly above not by a horizontal traverse. It did take me numerous journeys to discover this, by which time my arms were a tad weary and i fell off the "easy moves" of ME, which for anyone who has not climbed ME, are the crux! The gear is really good on this section though the pegs on ME are pretty shoddy. Caff bless him then pulled the ropes and led the whole pitch. A pretty awesome effort. Possibly the most extended ive seen him for a few years. The final groove is definately the crux, on crappy rock with shoddy gear. Thank f**k i fell when i did!
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| nickbullock | Isis is Angry. | 3 | Sep 11 2008, 5:02 PM EDT by nickbullock | ||
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Thread started: Jul 30 2008, 2:53 PM EDT
Watch
Having just climbed this route with Caff i feel the need to vent a tad on the above grade, description and Neil's description of Isis below. On the grade, it is definately a whole lot more serious and sustained than ME, Ludwig, and (havent done it yet but will get on it in a week or so) The Drunk. I would say this climb in its entirety deserves its E7 grade, and bench mark at that. In comparison to other E6's at Gogarth, definately a whole grade more. I would agree that the climbing in the final groove is not 6c, rather sustained 6b... Oh, and to add a little fuel to the fire, didnt you fall off the last pitch Neil? And Dan then led it on your gear. Yes i know a hold broke, but this will suggest that the rock is other than perfect and so adds to the difficulty.
On the description and Neil's comments. The first pitch is serious, very dirty, very adventurous and commiting but it is an E7 after all. I went slightly wrong and climbed the corner to high, got commited and couldnt get any gear to make the swing right, to the groove i should have been, so i belayed on a grass ramp below the grass ramp i should have belayed on. Caff came up and made one steep pull on overhanging gop to put us back on track. The second pitch is well worth doing, similar to creepin lemma, sustained and quite pumpy. All of this climbing and suspense takes a lot out of your arms,(and head) making the final 2 pitches feel harder. My point being, you have not done this climb if you ab in and climb from the ramp. Are we now convenience climbing at Gogarth? Are we only cherry picking pitches? The whole of climbing is pointless if you look at it. Why bother climbing anything if we can just walk to the top? The first two pitches are not pointless, they are the climb as Haston and Kay first completed it and should not be dispelled. sorry, a rant, but hey...
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Keyword tags:
gogarth - Yellow Walls
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| grimer | dogs of war | 2 | Sep 16 2007, 9:19 AM EDT by DaiLampard | ||
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Thread started: Mar 20 2007, 6:54 PM EDT
Watch
I don't think E4 5b is a good grade for this. I did it at E3 and that seemed about right, albeit full-on. There is a lot of pro of one kind or another.I think E4 5b would be very offputting for this route.
Also, while I think it's brilliant, it's not a 3 star route. The people who will do this will understand how good a 2 star route is. I remember doing Kalahari, and being blown away by how good it was. That was 2 stars. If it had been 3 I don't think it would have been such a good experience. Same for The Sind. Let the descriptions do the talking. |
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Sun Dog.jpg (JPEG Image - 304k)
posted by drevil Mar 4 2007, 12:16 PM EST
Sign of The Sun Dog, second ascent
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Dogs of War.jpg (JPEG Image - 399k)
posted by drevil Mar 4 2007, 12:02 PM EST
Pete Greening on Dogs of War, pitch 1
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