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Wen Zawn
There is a photo topo of some of the major line on this crag on the photo topos page.
Approach
Drive straight off the A55 super highway and continue straight on through holyhead keeping the ferry port on you right, just before the road runs out turn left and follow the road signposted south stack?, that runs along the side of the harbour, as you approach the end of the road a small road branches off left with a sign for 'Breakwater country park?'. Follow this to a car park at the end.
From the car park take the main track up the hill that is steep to start with, and exhausting in the summer heat. It does flatten after 400m, where a pleasant walk that often has some rare orchids and the lesser spotted rock rose which are indemic to the maritime heathland of holyhead mountain. Eventually a fork in the track is reached, the right hand fork follows the telegraph poles to north stack, the left fork leads up to a small 'Col'. Head over the saddle and down the descent to a great flat spot on the promontory, and the classic view of Wen Slab.
At low tide and with calm seas the routes around wen slab are access by abseiling off large blocks at the end of the promontory, to a boulder hop across the zawn to the base of your desired route. watch out for waves from the fast ferry.
Alternatively the first routes can be accessed in strong seas or during high tide by walking back up the descent path and walking around the top of wen slab on a small and exposed track. A short scramble can be made down a gully to an abseil point on blocks on the right. Abseil down this to a ledge some 20 metres above the sea, where it is easy to traverse to your choosen route.
A further alternative can be utilised for Dream of White Horse, by carrying on scramble with care and excitment down to a promanent notch, where you can descend the groove and traverse onto the slab.
Hydrophobia 45m HVS 5a (1981)
Dde 105m HVS 5a * (1966)
A Dream of White Horses 150m HVS 5a *** (1968)
Variation
2a. E1 5a
2a. E1 5a
Descend from the second belay (first belay for the shorter variation) for 5 metres whilst completely ignoring the obvious line of holds which constitute the actual route! When halfway down to the Wen ledge, notice a tenuous line of white flakes leading leftwards. Climb on frail rock with laughable protection until you reach the corner. Go up this to meet the third pitch of 'Dream', one third of the way along, passing a dodgy hanging flake. Belay.
?(2/9/95).
A Dream of White Chimneys HVS 5a *** (1967/1968)
This is one of the most stunning combination of pitches that one can climb at HVS on Wen Slab. Of course the majority will follow the more historic footpath that is Dream..., but don't be fooled as this is the best link. The easiest way to start this route is to abseil from the block to the ledge 20 metres above the sea, and is describe as such.
1. 50m 5a. From the left hand end of the ledge take an obvious traverse line out to the arete, that overlooks 'the concrete chimney'. Then climb up the slab to a thin crack, just above this the rock turns bubbly, and large holds abound, as the exposure kicks in. Continue up and left to reach the rubble filled chimney, and the belay as for the last pitch of dream, just below overhangs on the left.
2. 25. 5b. From the belay climb up the left arete of the concrete chimney, till level with a traverse line below an overhang, make a delicate traverse left, to where it is possible to descend onto a fin of rock, and continue traversing left, on easy ground. Eventually a traverse of a slab leads to the finishing groove, where an alloy peg threaded with a bit of string, lead to the belay on blocks out left.
Echo Beach 80m E2 (1980)
If 62m HVS (1969)
Zeus 85m E2**(1970)
Wen 100m HVS *** (1966)
High Pressure E4 * (1976)
Slap the slab and ride the ripples
The Quartz Icicle E2 *** (1968)
Variation
The original Finish E2
The original Finish E2
The Concrete Chimney HVS 5a *** (1967)
Rubble E7 83m.
The softest route in the world. The concrete chimney that Concrete Chimney climbs 3m of. The most obvious line at Gogarth.
1 33m. 6a. Super step out of the cave at the bottom on the finest of Welsh pebble dashing. Move left out of the concrete to belay at the end of T-Rex, pitch 1. Appalling protection.
2 27m. 6a. Follow T-Rex to the huge ceiling and go through the right end of this past the hanging flange of death (crucial RP 1) to join Concrete Chimney and belay.
3 23m. 5a. Done before - E1 chimney in sensational position.
Paul Pritchard, Leigh McGinley (AL). (on-sight). (10/91).
Games Climbers Play, Original Start 30m E6 6b **
The amazing bubbly line right of the corner of T-Rex. Unfortunately the initial moves are brick hard with difficult to place protection, a bad landing and are out of keeping with the rest of the pitch which is truly amazing. Gains the belay at the end of pitch 1 of T-Rex.
D.Pearce, E.Drummond 26/27 9/70 (magnificent and unhinged skyhook frenzy) FFA Ron Fawcett and G.Kent, 1979
Hardback Thesaurus 30m E8 ** (1988)
"Climbing calls are revised at Gogarth 'breaking' be a lot more common than taking in" From Ed Douglas's glorious commentary to the film Gogarth.
Climb the crack in the wall right of T-Rex to a crucial cam slot, move rightwards onto the wall, pulling on little flakes which look "almost stuck onto the rock". Then trend back leftwards above a vague bulge to reach the overlap. Either arrange skyhooks and small pieces of thread, or stuff the overlap full of small cams. Arrange skyhooks above the roof. Surmount the roof, utilising a heel to bring you closer to the rock, then run it out up the twin right-slanting shallow cracks, until a final hard move left reaches the sanctuary of the T-Rex traverse line. Terrifying 60 foot skyhook popping fall optional.
F.A: J.Dawes, (Ground-up) 1988.
2nd Ascent : Twid, also on-sight (Ground-up?)
Climb the crack in the wall right of T-Rex to a crucial cam slot, move rightwards onto the wall, pulling on little flakes which look "almost stuck onto the rock". Then trend back leftwards above a vague bulge to reach the overlap. Either arrange skyhooks and small pieces of thread, or stuff the overlap full of small cams. Arrange skyhooks above the roof. Surmount the roof, utilising a heel to bring you closer to the rock, then run it out up the twin right-slanting shallow cracks, until a final hard move left reaches the sanctuary of the T-Rex traverse line. Terrifying 60 foot skyhook popping fall optional.
F.A: J.Dawes, (Ground-up) 1988.
2nd Ascent : Twid, also on-sight (Ground-up?)
T-Rex 115m E3 *** (1969)
A real man eater of a crack guards the upper section of the route, where the climbing is easier but still involved, inspiring and overwhelmingly good. Start by hoping across boulders at low tide to reach to bottom of an obviously strenuous slot, that leads about 15m up the cliff, about 15 metres left of the true concrete chimney.
1 40m 5c. Start up the chimney, until it turns into off-width, where it requires some pumpy laybacking to exit the feature into the corner/groove above. Climb this until a selection of pegs, where it is possible to traverse right along obvious large pockets to a belay on what remains of a cluster of pegs, and some wires.
2 35m 5b. Climb the wall above and follow some cracks to just below the roof to arrange some gear, before descending slightly to sneaky traverse left along a quartz seam. A bold step over a bottomless groove/corner continue up easier ground to belay in a corner just below the traverse on the last pitch of dream.
3 40m 4c. Climb up to and then traverse as for the last pitch of dream.
Variations:
Metal Guru 40m E4 (1989),
Original Finish E3 5b
Golden Bough Finish 25m E4
Games Climbers Play, Direct Start 30m E4 (1 pt. Aid) ** (1970/1979)
Ask Paul Pritchard about this one
Games Climbers Play 72m
(It's a) Broad Church E6/7
1 6a. Start at a groove left of the start of Games Climbers Play. Go up the groove to a bulge. Swing left and go up to a peg belay.
2 6b. Hard work allows progress up the groove, past a peg and a warthog, to a rest. Reluctantly carry on and swing right to belay on Games Climbers Play. There was a warthog on first ascent to protect traverse right but it snapped in hands of second on first ascent.
3 5c. Climb up, over a bulge, to a belay on the slab on A Dream of White Horses.
4 6a. Go up and left and pull through a roof (just left of The Golden Bough Finish) to gain the top. (Don't bother - finsh up Dream instead for a well earned panad) Pegs placed off aid ground up so possible to be replaced on lead if keen.
Nick Dixon, Noel Craine (AL). (2/5/97).
(Reliant on in-situ gear and carabiners: E6 if good, E7 if not - P.R & B.Bransby)
The Collection Plate E7 6b
A direct start to broad church, start left of first pitch, climb wall to roof traverse right and pull over roof into shallow groove (peg?), climb up to belay on first pitch.
Nick Dixon and N Craine (prob 1997)
(Reliant on in-situ gear and carabiners: E6 if good, E7 if not - P.R & B.Bransby)
The Collection Plate E7 6b
A direct start to broad church, start left of first pitch, climb wall to roof traverse right and pull over roof into shallow groove (peg?), climb up to belay on first pitch.
Nick Dixon and N Craine (prob 1997)
Mister Softy E6
A fine outing up the back wall of the zawn. Start at the base of the obvious pillar approximately 10m left of T Rex.
1 15m. 5b. Climbs the obvious pillar to a small overlap. Pull over this into a decomposing groove and follow this to a disappointing stance, old pegs.
2 40m. 6b. Move left into a groove (passing 2 old pegs) and climb up and right onto a hanging slab. Follow this to more old pegs, rest. Weird moves leftwards and upwards bail round an arête into a groove. Follow this, where angels tread to fear. Upwards and leftwards to join the Janitor finish, halfway along it's traverse. Belay here.
3 25m. 6a. Climbs the obvious groove above to a deep slot. Traverse recklessly leftwards to a short hanging groove. From the top of this, exit rightwards onto the Dream of White Horses slab. Finish up this with disconcerting difficulty
G.Smith, A.Wainwright (AL). (ground up). (30/8/94).
The Mad Brown E7
A fabulous expedition up the loosness left of Mister Softy. None of the pitches are excessively serious or difficult.
1 6a/b. Climb the first 7 metres of Mister Softy to a large fin. Swing round left and cross the wall on good holds to gain a straight crack leading to a roof. Surmount this to gain a wide crack and good resting holds. Traverse left and stupidly enter the huge hole. Belay on in-situ ice pegs and a cam 4.
2 6b. Move out left, peg runners, and grasp a suitcase shaped thread block. Good holds lead up to a crack. Slap for the short arête on the left and gain the slab above with difficulty. In-situ ice peg belay and some arbitrary cams etc.
3 5b. Follow the Conan traverse to belay on the in-situ thread, just right of the pegs. Good belay.
4 6a. Follow the top pitch of Mister Softy for 7 metres, up the wide-open groove to a good spike and arrange protection. Step down and swing left round a fin to gain diagonal cracks. Go up to an obvious hand jam and left into a niche, peg runners. Exit the niche, left to attain a sloping boss. Cross the headwall leftwards for 5 metres to better holds in the mosail choss. Go straight up the shallow groove in obscure holds to the roof. Surmount this in a position of sensational rope drag.
G.Smith, A.Wainwright (AL). (1996). Abseil inspection after numerous days of ground up attempts ended near top of pitch 2.
Notes: The first two pitches are difficult to escape from and stay dry. (Unless you are blessed like Leo and Noel and happen to leaving the cave on the lowest tide ever). One possibility would be to trail an abseil rope, though this may dislodge loose stuff from the lip, without great care.
Notes: The first two pitches are difficult to escape from and stay dry. (Unless you are blessed like Leo and Noel and happen to leaving the cave on the lowest tide ever). One possibility would be to trail an abseil rope, though this may dislodge loose stuff from the lip, without great care.
Igdrazil
Broken Mirror
Uhuru
Boogie Woogie
Thor
Conan the Librarian E6 ***
The first pitch combined with The Janitor finish gives an outstanding outing. Well protected and highly recommended space walking. The line of this route is truly gobsmacking. It goes up the inside of the arch underneath the promontory opposite Wen slab and then traverses across the outrageous back wall of the zawn underneath A Dream of White Horses. Abseil off the promontory down the Uhuru wall opposite Wen slab to reach the base of the zawn (tide dependent). The right hand side of theUhuru wall contains a massive groove, the line of The Unrideable Donkey. Start just right of this.
1. 25m. 6b. Climb diagonally rightwards up the slab to gain the right arete of the wall. Step right around the arete into an amazing bottomless hanging groove. Storm up this with immaculate palming and bridging until it is possible to exit rightwards to a hanging belay off rusty pegs and cams (size 1/2?) in the horizontal crack under the roof at the top of the groove.
2. 12m. 6a. The Janitor Finish ***
Variation
Conan the Librarian Original Finish E7 **
The most popular way of doing the route is one of the best trad routes in the world. From the belay, gain the wide open groove up and right. Follow the wide groove until level with the obvious traverse right across the zawn.
3 18m 5c. Follow the traverse line right to eventually gain a hanging stance on the Wen slab side of the arch.
3 18m 5c. Follow the traverse line right to eventually gain a hanging stance on the Wen slab side of the arch.
4. 25m.5c. The Golden Bough, or a more sensibly follow the crowds across Dream
J.Dawes and C.Smith (alt leads) 1986. It rained most of the time we were on the first ascent.
Variation
Conan the Librarian Original Finish E7 **
2a. 36m. 6b. Gain the wide groove of the second pitch Continue up this until it peters out in steep territory. Many peg runners hereabouts.Traverse desperately leftwards on a very narrow slab sandwiched between overhangs and continue left to reach easier ground on The Unridable Donkey,optional stance.Finish up and right skirting the edge of the orange scarred rockfall area.
J.Dawes and C.Smith, 1980 something (1 PA) FFA S.Mayers, G.Farquhar (1992)
A direct start to Conan the Librarian, starting 7m around to the right of the original, under the arch. Belay on a ledge, accessible approximately 2hrs after high tide. It takes the obvious wide crack until a swing left on a spike can be made to a peg which can be backed up by RP's. Swing out wildly across the roof to gain the base of the Conan groove and continue as for that route.
S.Mayers, G.Farquhar,1992.
The Unridable Donkey 60m E7
P.Pritchard and?, 1987
Top pitch now M.I.A. but can still be climbed skirting the edge of the rockfall scar.
Top pitch now M.I.A. but can still be climbed skirting the edge of the rockfall scar.
Instant Van Goch E5 6b 23m.
A delightful trip up the painted wall, underneath Wen Zawn arch (faces west). From the 'dam', step onto the wall and climb diagonally left on magnificent holds to a good rest. Venture up and right, past two pegs, to gain an enormous undercling. From this, lunge for the very dubious looking block and continue in the same line leftwards to a huge spike. Lower off. Magnificent varied climbing and so forth.
G.Smith, J.Harrison,1996.
The Cryptic Rift
A hidden and dark underworld, that resides inside the promotory that britomartis climbs. To reach the first few route, abseil down the front lefthand corner (looking out), as for the boulder hop approach to the base of Wen Slab. A short distance down from the top is a rift that runs through the promontory, descend to a ledge near the outside of this and continue down into the rift for a further 15m to a ledge.
Escapegoat 15m E1
This would appear to take the line of least resistance to the boulder choke/ledge at the mouth of the rift. Scramble off.
Agrophobia E4 5c (1986)
Dislocation Dance E3 5c **
An amazing route ideal for those days when the sun is just too hot. This atomospheric route virtually loops itself end just abolve where you started, have taken in some territory for the grade.
C.Waddy and ? (1986)
The Wild Underdog E7 6b/c
The flake line right of Evidently Chickentown. Start up that route, follow the chimney to the bulge at it's crux. Step down and right for 3 metres to a ridiculous 1m2 slab on the arête. Grasp the huge flake and bar relentlessly into the hanging groove. Loosely ascend this to a large thread in the roofs above. A remarkable route.
G.Smith. (7/96).
Evidently Chickentown
Hard for E5, confusing route description (and rightly so) but good
Minute Man
Sprung
The Trap
Star of the Sea
Gobbler's Arete
Vend-T
The Sad Cow E3 6a
A direct finish to Vend-T, which takes the obvious pink wall to the ledge left (right?) of Britomartis. Follow Vent-T to the point where it strikes up forcefully to the ledge. Step right on small flakes and climb directly, crux, to reach better holds and a little crack. Finish slightly left to the large ledge.
Me(?) and George, (5/91).
Britomartis HVS
Magnificent steep wall climbing up the north wall of the promontary. Abseil off the front of the promontory to a large ledge above the sea and belay.
1. 4c. A tricky traverse left gains the main line of monsterous jugs and flakes in the centre of the wall. Follow these to a small belay ledge about 10m (?) below the top.
2. Traverse rightwards along the easiest line to finish near the arete.
Friday's Extendable Arms E2 5c
A useful and exciting alternative start to Britomartis when the state of the sea would involve an enema climbing round into the groove from the ledge. Start in the base of The Trap. Move left to a hold on the left arête and continue steeply on good holds to the ledge (joining Gobbler's Arête). Continue up to the second diagonal ledge and move left around the arête to find an immaculate hand traverse leading across the face to join Britomartis about halfway up it's first pitch.
Nick Arding, Dave Pearce. (10/10/03).
Toiler on the Sea
Spider Wall
The Bluebottle
Billy Bud E6 6b 17m
A good steep pitch with perfect rock and protection. Abseil down to the island underneath Spiders Web arch. Pendulum into the cliff and clip an in-situ (?) nut. From here, go rightwards under the roof for more gear - pull round the roof and deal with the leaning crack above. Pull over a bulge and grab the 'handle' (don’t use this feature for a thread as it will break - good wires instead). The next bulge is easier, continue up Spider Wall to a belay, with difficulty.
G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1991).
The 4th Dimension E7 6b/c 27m.
Start from the island (the 'whale') underneath Spiders Web, gained by abseil from the top. Use the abseil rope to pendulum onto the wall, as for Heinous Flytrap. Follow Heinous Flytrap leftwards for 3 metres until obvious good holds lead rightwards through steep rock to an in-situ thread. Difficult moves lead leftwards to another in-situ thread. A flake on the left side of a roof leads to good holds and a vague easing of angle. It is possible to step left here into a niche and get a good shake out. Once rested, or bored, climb up rightwards to a large undercut block thing, runners and kneebars. Clip a peg on the right and make hard moves past this rightwards, crux, to gain the slab of Britomartis. A quality pitch on very good rock. Steep and safe.
A.Wainwright. (16/7/96).
Heinous Flytrap E7
Takes the left arête of the wall, then large roof crack under Barfly. Start from 'the whale' (see appendix A). Swing into the groove in the middle of the steep wall (on a rope).
117m. 6b. Climb the groove to its top then out left along the obvious undercuts (etc) to a technical kneebar crossover crux (with a 'Greek kick' if you want) and on up large flakes to belay where it eases at jugs in a slight recess with a small spike.
2 10m. 6b. Continue up a short crack on the left, then swing out left onto a huge flake and duck round and under and then move up to belay at the left hand end of the obvious large roof crack.
313m. 6b. Follow the crack rightwards to lip.
4 20m. 4c. Easier to top.
117m. 6b. Climb the groove to its top then out left along the obvious undercuts (etc) to a technical kneebar crossover crux (with a 'Greek kick' if you want) and on up large flakes to belay where it eases at jugs in a slight recess with a small spike.
2 10m. 6b. Continue up a short crack on the left, then swing out left onto a huge flake and duck round and under and then move up to belay at the left hand end of the obvious large roof crack.
313m. 6b. Follow the crack rightwards to lip.
4 20m. 4c. Easier to top.
C.Waddy, G.Smith (AL). (Ground-up stylee, except top pitch which was red-pointed on gear).
Appendix A - Access, comfort and escape.
Abseil straight down to the route from a thread under a boulder above the wall, clipping into the top two bits of in-situ gear on the not yet finished "4th Dimension & how to get there". This enables the swing to the groove to be made easily from the whale-like island. However, it's best to belay on it. The 2nd is a very uncomfortable hanging belay. If the belayer lowers off, with the rope clipped into separate runners, then one can, by pulling on alternative ropes, set up a swing that allows a good ledge, about 7m up Spiders Web, to be gained. This is a much more comfortable belay. This method also allows escape to be made. The second can then prussuk (only about15m) to regain the route.
Appendix B - Tides and seepage.
The island seems to remain above water at high neap tides, unless it is rough. However, it may be hard to swing into the route at this state of the tide.The 1st pitch is often dampish at the bottom in the morning, but this bit isn't too bad.
Spiders Web E5 68m.
A thrilling trip with some awkward moves. Good gear, standard rack.
1 5c. Pitch one is pegless and tough.
2 6b. Bridge the chimney to its top. Extend the web with sling. Bridge down to the lip. Reverse arm bar a slot, good wire #1. Swing out across the lip and layback vigorously.
3 5a. ..and so on.
1 5c. Pitch one is pegless and tough.
2 6b. Bridge the chimney to its top. Extend the web with sling. Bridge down to the lip. Reverse arm bar a slot, good wire #1. Swing out across the lip and layback vigorously.
3 5a. ..and so on.
G.Smith, T.Bonner. (6/91).
Bar Fly E6/7 6b
From the base of Spiders Web chimney, swing out across the straight crack leading towards the lip of the Web. Finish at a spike in a groove. Wires, cams. E6 in bone dry conditions, E7 in the usual Wen Zawn conditions. Best visited at the end of the day, when it comes into the sun.
G.Smith. (6/91).
The Boston Struggler E5 70m. (link to video)
A very good route which desevers to become a classic
1 23m. 5c. Climb pitch 1 of Blowout, then layback flakes leading out leftwards from the huge wide chimney left of Spiders Web. Belay at the arête.
2 13m. 6b. Swing into the wild roof slot and jam round the lip with more gambling bars than Monte Carlo. Belay in the groove above.
3 34m. 5c. Swing round right and climb the gently overhanging scoop of knobs and flakes above the Web, finishing rightwards. Bit loose.
1 23m. 5c. Climb pitch 1 of Blowout, then layback flakes leading out leftwards from the huge wide chimney left of Spiders Web. Belay at the arête.
2 13m. 6b. Swing into the wild roof slot and jam round the lip with more gambling bars than Monte Carlo. Belay in the groove above.
3 34m. 5c. Swing round right and climb the gently overhanging scoop of knobs and flakes above the Web, finishing rightwards. Bit loose.
G.Smith, D.Kendall. (6/91).
Forgery E5 6b 34m.
As one descends to Spiders web, one passes a smooth North Stack like wall, which one may be tempted to test ones fingers upon. Start in the middle of the wall. Take RP's etc.Gain a ledge at 3 metres and climb a short left facing corner to a thin flake which leads quite boldly, to a square roof, thread. Go right around this, crux, and traverse left across the lip to a groove, bold. Climb this and a vague rib till trending left gains a peg on another route.
C.Waddy, J,Vlasto. (7/89).(Better maybe, having gone round the roof, step right, hard, to an easy flake)
Archway
Blowout
Genuflex
Genuflex
(Will Mawrgets the) Vulcan Lip Lock
Ipso Fatso 30m E1, 5b
The chimney line and corner to the right of the Ipso Facto wall.
Climb the chimney to the overhang, pull up into a loose corner and continue to the top.
A Morley, D Ferguson, M Rowlands (21/12/97)
Ipso Facto 30m VS 4c
Kraken VS 4c
Climbs the crack left of Ipsofacto.
P.A.James, A.Leary (April 2008)
Mustang 30m VS 4c.
Steep climbing, but low in the grade, up the wall to the left of the descent. Start below the first groove along the ledges, and climb it to the top.
T.Taylor, D.Garner (1970)
Carol VS
Mr Seal 30m VS 4C
Nice climbing, although bold in places. Start left of Mustang, at the next groove along the ledges. Climb the groove/ramp, on big holds at first, until a couple of trickier moves lead to a ledge. The small wall on the right is then crossed to gain a triangular slab, and a finish is made up the groove at the back.
AD Newton, AJ Howells, CM Parry (25/08/1981)
The Tail 32m E3 5C
Start at a pointed block on the traverse along the ledges, left again from Mr Seal, and beneath the second groove. Climb the groove direct to the top.
J Brown, D Jones (19/10/1978)
is left of Genuflex, not right.
Ipso Fatso 30m E1, 5b
The chimney line and corner to the right of the Ipso Facto wall.
Climb the chimney to the overhang, pull up into a loose corner and continue to the top.
A Morley, D Ferguson, M Rowlands (21/12/97)
Ipso Facto 30m VS 4c
Kraken VS 4c
Climbs the crack left of Ipsofacto.
P.A.James, A.Leary (April 2008)
Mustang 30m VS 4c.
Steep climbing, but low in the grade, up the wall to the left of the descent. Start below the first groove along the ledges, and climb it to the top.
T.Taylor, D.Garner (1970)
Carol VS
Climbs the vague crack 5m right of Mr. Seal. Go up the crack to a ledge and bear left. A step right gains a quartz jug and the top.
J.Dalton, F.Williams. (11/4/90).
Mr Seal 30m VS 4C
Nice climbing, although bold in places. Start left of Mustang, at the next groove along the ledges. Climb the groove/ramp, on big holds at first, until a couple of trickier moves lead to a ledge. The small wall on the right is then crossed to gain a triangular slab, and a finish is made up the groove at the back.
AD Newton, AJ Howells, CM Parry (25/08/1981)
The Tail 32m E3 5C
Start at a pointed block on the traverse along the ledges, left again from Mr Seal, and beneath the second groove. Climb the groove direct to the top.
J Brown, D Jones (19/10/1978)
Miura is not VS and has been superseded completely by the next route.
The Tail (worth E3 5c - takes the 3rd groove along the ledges, not the 2nd) and the following route:
Huncho E2 5b
Quite a serious pitch. This takes the shallow groove 3m left of The Tail. Climb the groove, bold, to a bulge, lots of poor runners. Move up carefully to gain easier ground. Finish up left, blind but excellent rock.
M.Crook, A.Newton. (18/4/94).
Maverick VS
Flooze VS 4c 37m.
A much better way of climbing Maverick. A good pitch at the grade. Start as for Maverick. Climb up leftwards around the shallow arête and up into a shallow groove. Climb directly up the wall, on excellent holds, steep, to reach the top. Belay well back.
D.Ferguson, C.Brown. (1993).
D.Ferguson, C.Brown. (1993).
Annie's Arch E1 95m
A marvellous excursion at a reasonable grade through territory usually reserved for much harder routes, It traverses above the big sea cave and continues the traversing theme across Spider Wall. Start as for Ipso Facto below the easy wall 15m left of the huge arch.
1 20m 4c Climb cracks in the wall and step right to the arete. Climb this until a step across into a groove can be made, belay.
2 20m 5a Step down and right and cross the wall with trepidation. Continue to the arete and move up to a hole. Traverse down and right to a slab which is descended to a corner, belay.
3 15m 5a Traverse right to gain the arete, loose, step down and make a wild move round a big fin to step right onto a slab. Descend this for 5m to a corner and belay, on the lip of the cave. (As for Spiders Web)
4. 30m 5a Step down to a crack and follow this right for 3m. Make a descending traverse to a big flake on Spider Wall. Move up to a big spike and traverse right into the next crack system, (Britomartis). Descend this for 3m until a traverse right leads to a huge ledge and a belay at the top of the ramp.
5. 10m 4c Finish up the wide crack.
1 20m 4c Climb cracks in the wall and step right to the arete. Climb this until a step across into a groove can be made, belay.
2 20m 5a Step down and right and cross the wall with trepidation. Continue to the arete and move up to a hole. Traverse down and right to a slab which is descended to a corner, belay.
3 15m 5a Traverse right to gain the arete, loose, step down and make a wild move round a big fin to step right onto a slab. Descend this for 5m to a corner and belay, on the lip of the cave. (As for Spiders Web)
4. 30m 5a Step down to a crack and follow this right for 3m. Make a descending traverse to a big flake on Spider Wall. Move up to a big spike and traverse right into the next crack system, (Britomartis). Descend this for 3m until a traverse right leads to a huge ledge and a belay at the top of the ramp.
5. 10m 4c Finish up the wide crack.
drevil |
Latest page update: made by drevil
, Jan 21 2009, 8:56 AM EST
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Keyword tags:
Gogarth - Wen Zawn
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| penyrolewen | The Trap | 3 | Jul 8 2007, 4:42 PM EDT by 1Fin | ||
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Thread started: Mar 6 2007, 2:29 AM EST
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Sometime in the mid '90's I took Chris Naylor for his first route at Gogarth. We went to do Britomartis but the sea was breaking against the first traverse and Chris, who was pretty much a sport climber only back then and not his later bold self, didn't look too happy with the prospect. So I looked in the guide. "Hmm, The Trap, HVS, starts here, let's do that!" I think.
So, I 'levitated' up the first pitch as per the guidebook description - wet, greasy chimneying, sometime uncomfortably wide, with, as I remember, 2 useful bits of gear in 90 feet. I reached a 'narrow section', again, as per the guidebook, and climbed this on one wall - bit of a squeeze - to emerge into a wider chamber above. This all fitted the description and I thought that was the fun bits over. Unfortunately, I was in a closed chimney, standing comfortably but with nowhere to go. Chris, bless him, was looking up attentively, full of faith in my skills. Shame I couldn't fit out of the hole back onto the face.... It took an hour and a half. I tried leftwards, rightwards, sidewards, feet first, the lot. I couldn't get through. Eventually, I had my jacket and t shirt off and lay horizontally (the chamber was well supplied with little ledges) so I could push with my feet. My chest went through, and then I stuck, fast. I nearly panicked, but thought myself calm. What could I do? Chris couldn't gofor help and even if some came, what would they do? Give me slim fast? The gear was already off and hanging from a nut but I reached back and untied my knots to get rid of those obstructions. I pushed, and pushed, and slowly, painfully, I moved. But as I did, down slipped my harness, my trousers and my long johns. Satnding up 90 feet up, from horizontal, unroped, with my harness, trousers and long johns round my ankles, looking down at Chris's trusting face (he had no idea what was going on) was one of my most memorable moments. Luckily it was an easy step to the belay. Chris, slim git, slipped through easy. |
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| DaiLampard | T Rex | 1 | Mar 2 2007, 11:02 PM EST by DaiLampard | ||
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Thread started: Feb 27 2007, 12:47 AM EST
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In '89 I'd met up with two New Zealanders who wanted to climb T Rex.On arrival the tide was in and so we went off to the main cliff and climbed Bubbly Situation Blues and what proved to be another rather tasty Ray Evens outing - Falls Road! Unfortunately, my antipodean friends were not so easily put off their prime objective and so we descended to the base of T Rex somewhat late in the afternoon. Matters rapidly deteriorated, Steve couldn't lead the first pitch, his mate didn't want to and I was knackered. The sun was just about to hit the horizon and the tide was lapping at our feet. Somehow I mustered the energy to climb the pitch and brought the other two up . With rapidly fading light I moved across the slab where you have to step down and round As I started to pull over the last bulge the rope jammed under the overhang ( as it always does!) and as I tried to move up all I could hear was the sound of stiching ripping and my harness starting to move down my legs - I had no choice but to keep pulling and eventually there was a release of tension and I shot upwards! As I glanced down in the failing light I could just make out my chalk bag floating down towards the sea and a couple of canoeists who had just appeared onthe scene . " Are you OK" they shouted up - " Yeah - no problems " I lied in to the gloom and they silently sped away. Above, Julius our dog, had begun to howl in time with the lighthouse and a light drizzle added to the evenings entertainment. Steve and Neil, did however reach the belay and somehow we brailled our way across the top of Dream and the sanctuary of the mainland.
As I sat at the top of Wen Zawn this August and recanted this very same story to Bob Brewer and Huw O' Donnell, It was hard to believe that at 6-30pm that very day we would be stood at the bottom of T Rex, the tide lapping at our feet and Bob going " I told you it was wet". Once again and in the words of the "Fast Show" we were very, very late ! |
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| DaiLampard | High Pressure | 0 | Feb 27 2007, 4:47 PM EST by DaiLampard | ||
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Thread started: Feb 27 2007, 4:47 PM EST
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Slap the slab and ride the ripples
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