The Face of Adversity.
One of the steepest bits of quartzite on Anglesey.
Reached by taking the minor Ravenspoint road southwards to the southern most headland of the bay. Enter a disgusting housing estate and follow a sign to "Headland". Probably best to ask guy in house (with "Beware of Dog" sign) if it is O.K to climb his cliff.
Dr Livingstone I Exhume E3 5b
Descend as for The Treacherous Underfoot and belay just above sea level. The route starts from the first ledge above high water. Go straight up the wall, with trepidation, to a half way ledge, gear. Bail up the wall above, trending slightly leftwards past a mega thread to finish. Excellent.
P.Barbier, M.Anthone.
The Treacherous Underfoot E6/7 6b 15m.
Precambrian yarding up the overhanging crack in the face, suited to a mid to low tide. Mostly protected by pegs. Hold later pulled off by Micky Johnstone. George definitely had a thing about it being The Treacherous Underfoot. You know, like an animal.
G.Smith, 1992. Twid climbed it without the top pegs which where missing. Thought E7.
Chicama E9 6c 15m.
Tackles the centre of the face. Quest in from the slab on the right before having it up the groove and wall. RA!
T. Emmett, 2003.Named after a surf break reputed to be the longest left in the world.
The Crow Road E6 6b 15m.
The crack line on the left side of the face. Approach as for The Treacherous Underfoot, over the boulder at low tide or down the slab on the left at high tide. Scramble up to belay ledge. Climb the crack past 7 peg runners and assorted cam placements. Pegs 2, 3, and 7 are the best. Large nuts required at the top (sorry girls!).
G.Farquhar, C.Carolan (30/7/93).2nd ascent by Twid, 3rd by Owen Hayward
Pegs probably in bad condition by now.
Headland XS 6a
The obvious prow jutting out of the sea, adjacent to the Adversity main face. Scramble down to sea level. Attack from the left by large sloping jugs. Committing moves leads to ace jug things. Bolder at low tide.
G.Smith. (1993).
Alex Outlaws Electric Rod XS 5a
As for Headland, however, takes the unobvious prow ….?…
Merlin Tomkins. (1993).
Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes XS 5c 23m.
On the crag back and left (looking in) of The Treacherous Underfoot. It takes a direct line up the longest part of the crag and traverses slightly right on Stegosaurus like protrusions at the top. Fun and friable.
A.Hopkins, J.Harrison, P.Barbier. (summer,92).
Captain Gets his Oats E3 5c 17m.
Right of Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes is a crack going left to an arête. Traverse along the crack to the arête thing and climb direct up this with much interest to a step slightly left onto a sloping ledge.
A.Hopkins, J.Harrison, P.Barbier. (summer,92).
Reinhold Made a Mesner HVS 5a 13m.
Takes a crack over to the right of Captain Gets his Oats. Steep and fun.
J.Harrison, P.Barbier. (summer,92).
Dangleberries E4 6b 10m.
Situated on an overhanging wall to the right of The Treacherous Underfoot (looking in). Very short and very steep crack sporting 2 pegs, often wet but good value.
P.Barbier, J.Harrison. (summer,92).
The next three routes lie in a deep gully at the end of the boundary wall, on a slab facing seawards. Descend either by abseil or down climb Diff face.
Boundary Corner V.Diff 17m.
Flaky crack in right hand corner. Follow thin crack to the top.
N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Dogleg Crack V.Diff 17m.
The right hand of 2 cracks up the centre of the wall.
N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Catleg Crack V.Diff 17m.
The left hand crack.
N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Campian Crack Severe 14m.
In the small bay to the right of a sewage pipe, the wall on your right as you are facing seawards, which has a crack turning diagonally leftwards, split at half height. Climb this.
N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Porth Dafarch
From the beach car park, head left/south to the headland. Pass one inset to reach the furthermost, west-most zawn (not obvious). The next route takes the large south-facing wall in the back of the zawn, capped by huge roofs. Large tidal slabs can be used to gain the bottom of the zawn. Fisherman's Friend lies at the seaward end of the zawn.
Brewing and Nothingness E5 6a 17m.
Climb the juggy wall at the inland end of the face to a prominent quartz riddled notch. Easy to begin - to moving ledges. The steepening quartzy area is protected by numerous slings. Gain a handrail to enter the left-hand niche and the top with trepidation. Plastacine forearms etc.
G.Smith, Alistair Hopkins. (2/93).
The Blue House E5 6a 20m.Located in Blue House Cave. Climbs the obvious left leaning flake thing on north..?..
G.Smith. (2000?).
I have climbed two lines on the right hand side of Porth Dafarch on the rocks underneath the 79 sponsored life ring, which is the second ring along the cliff edge from the beach. These seem to be very obvious lines which I would be surprised if they have not been climbed before. One is a rising rightward traverse at about S/HS the other is a steep arete with an overhanging start maybe HVS. Are they worth recording? More details available on request.C. Thorne (Sep 07)