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The Range
The RangeOS: 210801
The next two routes lie in a narrow zawn with an excuse for a stream running into it. At the narrow head of the zawn is an overhanging banana shaped spire, bounded on the north by a dog leg crack. The crack is:
American Excess XS 5c 23m.
A route of three halves; at first wet, then steep, then loose.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
The Banana Spire E4/5 5c 30m.
Start on the arête and move up to where it steepens. Climb the front of the face directly to a notched bulge at the very top. Pull through here. Will become a pleasant, pumpy E4, but a bit snappy at present.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
Independ Ant HVS 5a 30m.
Climbs the centre of the large quartzy wall left of The Corner. Start at the largest boulder in the cove.
Climb the lower wall through two quartz bands to pass between two vegetated patches and gain a long slabby rib which leads to the top and a belay stake.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (26/08/07). Cleaned and inspected on abseil.
In a Fit of Pique VS 4c
Independance slab From the foot of Roberts Eve, climb diagonally left, crossing Tired of Toeing the Line, to finish to its left.Don Robson (solo). (18/5/96).
Stormy Monday HVS 5a 30m.
In the Zawn behind Independence Slab, before reaching Grimper/ The Prat In the Flat, there is an obvious white slab with a large overlap at on third height. The route follows the left edge of the slab crossing the overhang at its widest point. There are belay stakes at the top. It is advised the abseil rope is left in place as the last 2 meters are vertical turf. Protection is sparse on the upper wall and rock not totally dependable.D.Robson, D.Birch, M.Pretty. (26/8/92).
Straight and Narrow HVS 4c 30m.
Climbs the centre of the slab right of Stormy Monday. Take the narrow crack to the overlap which is breached at a notch. Climb straight up the centre of the slab above. There is a surprising amount of (poor) gear but a rope for the top is advised (though not used on the first ascent).
M.Gutteridge, C.Sullivan. (28/08/04).
Tidal Race HVS 5a 30m.
On the right hand side of Stormy Monday slab is a crack and corner line ending at a square cut overlap. Climb up to the overlap and traverse right. Climb the arete and then a shallow corner to an earth and grass finish.
J.Martin, C.Dale. (25/08/07).
? VS 4c 29m.
Immediately right of the Straight and Narrow slab is a V shaped slab. Climb the corner in the left hand side of the slab.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (26/08/07). Cleaned and inspected on abseil.
T"Ann"trum HVS 5A 22m **
Start at the bottom of The Prat in the Flat, step across the Zawn and climb a twisting crack to the roof. Step left and up to a block in the middle of the roof, swing right onto the block and climb the weakness through the upper roof, to a step right. Finish up the quartzy line going slightly left.
C.Dale, J.Martin. (23/6/07).
The Seamed Wall VS 4c 20m.
Start at the virtually non-tidal ledge at the foot of Prat in the Flat. Climb the corner for 6m then break out left onto the steep wall. Traverse left to reach the right slanting groove and follow it to the top. Stake belay well back.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (28/05/07).
Gravidational Effect HVD 19m.
Start at the right hand end of the Prat in the Flat ledge. Climb the flake line which zig-zags up the slab to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07).
Zig-Zag Slab VS 4c 24m.
Start in the next corner right from Prat in the Flat. Climb up the corner past the first overlap to reach the second, paler overlap. Follow this rightwards until near the edge of the slab. Climb up and left to finish up the right facing hanging corner.c
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).
Between Zig-Zag Slab and Icameisaurus is a corner with an obvious cave.
Who Needs Range West? VS 4c 25m.
Start at the bottom of a the ramp round to the left of the cave. Climb the ramp to pull rightwards round a bulge above the top of the cave. Climb up the deeply featured wall above and through an overlap to finish up the steep quartz wall.
J.Martin, M.Gutteridge. (28/05/07).
Stacked Nuts and Bloody Crabs VS 4c 20m.
Start at the entrance of the cave left of Icameisaurus just above the barnacle line. Pull onto the quartz ledge above. Climb the rib rightwards then cross Who Needs Range West and take the gap through the roof above. Climb the groove and pull steeply rightwards onto the grooved arete. Follow this to the top and belay well back.
M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (28/05/07).
Terms of Engagement HVS 5a 22m *
Above the right hand lip of the cave is a hanging corner. Climb up and over a bulge into the slabby corner which is climbed to the top.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (26/07/08)
Missed the Briefing VS 4b 22m
Climb the leaning arete between the two corners starting just right of Terms of Engagement.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (25/07/08)
The Day of the Jellyfish S 4a 22m
Climb the right hand corner starting up a blocky wall to the left of Icameisaurus.
J. Martin, S. Garrington (26/07/08)
The following 3 routes are on the island in the bay.
32.768 D 14m.
Start on the tidal platform at the seaward (SW) end of the island. Climb up from the niche at the right hand end of the face to reach a break. Trend left following a line of quartz to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07).
Anvil Porous HVS 5a 14m.
Climbs up to a small anvil shaped protrusion at 8m. Start below and left of the anvil 12m left of The Follow-Through Expurgation.
Climb the steep wall until an easing in the angle allows a step left to just below the anvil and finish straight to the top.
C.Gutteridge, M.Gutteridge. (25/08/07). Led onsight by Catherine with protection preplaced for the first 6m after Mike pulled a hold off and fell on the first ascent. This was Catherine's hardest lead to date - not bad for a pregnant girl!
The Follow-Through Expurgation HVS 5a,4c 16m.
Takes the obvious crackline up the centre of the steep South-East facing side of the island.
1. 10m 5a Breach the bulging groove to enter the corner above. Belay on the large ledge on the right.
2. 6m 4c Continue up the crack in the steep fragile wall above.
M.Gutteridge, C.Gutteridge alt leads. (25/08/07).
Note that while the crackline is obvious at a distance it isn't all that useful higher up. The route was pitched to make cleaning of the top section safer, should be worth a star if done in one pitch once the fragile bits have been removed.
Icameisaurus, not Icameosaurus.
Emmenthal Zawn
Dreygo's Guilt
5b.Start just left of Hieroglyphics below a quartzy boss.Lasso the boss, with a rope, then jump upwards to a jug on it. Continue easily then move up and left till under a large roof. Wimp out of trying this but instead go left round it, marvellously steep and juggy, to gain the top and flowers etc.C.Waddy, D.Lampard. (8/1989).
Pooh Bay
The Secret of my Excess XS 5b 42m.
On the south side of the bay, from the beach at half low tide, 5 metres seaward of the black and quartzy corner. Start by climbing a short wall to a groove which leads to the first overhang. Move 2 metres left below the overhang to beneath a golden quartzy boss. Pull through here and immediately skitter rightwards on undercuts. Move up and rightwards to the weakness in the next overlap, pull up and continue directly to where the slab becomes smooth and silvery. Now it all goes to rat shit; climb up to a rightwards trending groove and follow this to a few metres below the top. Go up leftwards onto a higher slab at a loose flake and grovel over onto the boulder clay. The surface of the silvery slab is fairly temporary and protection is an illusion for the top 15 metres.
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).
I am Curious Yellow E6 6a 27m.
This takes the golden groove up the centre of the back wall of Pooh Bay. A.K.A: The Curious George. Abseil in from stakes at the back of the zawn.Walk up leftwards on a stepped slab to where a stream comes out from the stepped wall. Climb a grey groove to get a high runner before moving right across the rotten band to gain a sloping quartzy shelf. Reach up to undercuts. This proves to be an uneasy place to remain and a difficult place to leave. Move up and rightwards into the main groove and follow the groove up to the headwall and then easier ground just below the top. Take extra cams.
G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998). Second ascent by Twid.
Climbs the over hanging line left of I am Curious Yellow. Start at a vague chimney line and follow the quartz to the roof. Cams. Peg and sumount the roof from the right crossing left to the strated crack which is followed with fun to the top. Belay on stacks. Double set of cams.
Twid (louise belayed but scrambled out as she was 7 months on) 2005 september I think.
Dichotomous wall
Dai-Wrecked E3
Start from a small quartz ledge, above high tide, gained by abseil from the Dichotomous stakes.
1 25m. 6a. Climb up a slab slightly rightwards to a square-cut overhang. Pass this rightwards by a contorted move into a hanging groove and continue straight up in the same line until the groove doglegs rightwards. Belay.
2 7m. 4c. Go easily rightwards and up in the same line to a shattered diagonal line. Crumbling remains.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/01).
Dai-Version E3/4 33m.
A much better route taking a multitude of overhangs.
1 15m. 5c. Climb straight up to a quartz-cracked overhang. Go through this and immediately through a second overhang above. Belay on a slab.
2 17m. 5c. Go up left over a small overlap to the lower of two noses. Climb left onto this and into an uncomfortable sandy groove. Go up this and left again onto the pick of the noses. Finish up the Dichotomous slab.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/02).
Ego Warriors E5 27m.
About 7 metres left of the top of Dichotomous at stakes, find two round bar stakes. Abseil down to a promontory and walk round right (facing in) to a ledge leading to the cove. Belay at the mouth of the cove, below a quartzy streaked wall.
1 17m. 6b. Climb the wall to a shelf, then move slightly down rightwards to good holds and steep ground. Continue up and rightwards to the top of the groove, vie a long reach, poor peg. Pull up into the groove (good peg, hidden on the right) and continue more easily on some doubtful rock to a belay on the stake.
2 10m. 5a. Of the many undesirable ways from here to the top, this is least atrocious. From behind the belay, go up slightly left then make a long step left again. Follow a weakness up slightly right to the top.
G.Huxter H.Jones. (1998).
The Following route is on the seaward face of the virtually detached piece of land by Ego Warriors & Funny Yellow etc.Go down a steep path to a beach and up onto the top of the island. Find a huge sea cave and abseil down to ledges of the left of the cave.
Honed on the Range E5 6a
From small ledges, above high water, follow an obvious left to right traverse across the lip of the cave. Arrange protection and embark on a thrilling sequence. A very very good episode of its type.
G.Smith, J.Harrison. (1998). Second ascent by Twid and Andy Perkins.
From small ledges, above high water, follow an obvious left to right traverse across the lip of the cave. Arrange protection and embark on a thrilling sequence. A very very good episode of its type.
G.Smith, J.Harrison. (1998). Second ascent by Twid and Andy Perkins.
Black Country Route VS 4c 15m. On the seaward side of the island South of Honed on the Range is a shallow cave with a sinuous cracked groove in the back wall. Climb the groove to exit the cave, finish steeply. The black rock is of very good quality and the route is an excellent little VS. M.Gutteridge, J.Martin. (26/08/07).
Dai on demand!
1 The through cave on the island with Honed on the range. Low tide. Traverse the rt hand side of the cave, one tricky down climb section, through under the arch to a sloping belay.6A 80ft
2Climb up a slab to a steep excit onto the slab above the arch. 6a 80ft
3 easy slab to the summit and tea! 80ft
Twid Dai Lampard alt. yonks ago
The Fortress
At the north end of the Fortress is a subsidiary outcrop, which has an arch through it. The following routes are found on this outcrop (The Turret) in the first zawn to the north of Honed on the Range. Abseil down a snake of quartz on the north side of the zawn.
The Snake HS 4b 15m.
Climb the line of the abseil to an overhang and go through this.
G.Huxter. (1998).
Some V.Diff Severe 17m.
Start from palatial ledges to the right of the start of the snake. Climb the slabby corner directly above the ledges.
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).
Grazed and Confused E3 5c 19m.
From palatial ledges, move rightwards towards the cave. Climb a slab diagonally rightwards to corrugated rock on a hanging arête. Climb directly above this to a small overhang on the arête, pull through and follow broken cracks slightly rightwards to an overhang. Go over this onto a hanging slab and on to the top.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
Reuben Friedman's Empty Bed HVS 5a 25m.
Start from palatial ledges. Move round rightwards, as for Grazed and Confused. From below the corrugated arête, hand traverse into the cave and on to an overhung slab. Climb the slab rightwards to a ledge in the cave. From this ledge, if you are short, jump across the zawn to a sloping ledge opposite. If you are tall, step across without difficulty. If, however, you are of average height, beware of finding yourself with a foot in either camp and falling between two stools, ending in the ----. From the sloping ledge, climb directly up for protection then move down and left across the blow hole to climb up through it on its left-hand side.H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).
Zawn rt of the boat house zawn. Climb the rt hand side of the overhanging bay. Holds are disposable. Possible no hands rest. A swing out left brings sanity. A classic of the genre.
Twid and Louise Thomas
Louise’s Chimney HVS 35m
Left of the biscuit factory above a blow hole /cave is a rt slanting chimney/ramp. Grovel and climb up the fine feature. Belay on stack at top.
Louise Thomas and Twid
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