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The Main Cliff
The best bit of the best cliff in the world. This is what dreams are made of: a sweep of rock so steep and so severe that most people run away scared. There is a section of this cliff where 15 consecutive routes are E5 and above. Despite the Big Boyz feel to the place there are several outstanding routes in the lower end of the extreme spectrum and even a couple easier than that. The rock is generally good, but it sometimes takes the sun to rid the crag of a damp feel and frequently conditions are best just after the sun hits the crag in the late morning.
View or edit Main Cliff topos
Main Cliff Left topo
Main Cliff Right topo
Approach
The first routes on the southern part of the main cliff are accessed via the path from South Stack towards Holyhead mountain. Just after you pass the radar station and just before you get to Holyhead mountain a track leads down to the racking up spot, above a gully. The top of the gully is under cut massively and not a good place to stand and admire the view.
Descend the gully and then follow the path below the Upper Tier to a fork that leads down to the sea-level traverse which is tide-dependent for all the routes beyond the Gogarth Pinnacle.
Access by the competent to the far end of the Main Cliff is possible by approaching as for Easter Island. Take a spare rope. Continue toward Main Cliff and slightly downhill to reach the large boulder where you would coil up after escaping this side of MC. Abseil 70>100' from a block on the top of the escape gully to a belay on the easy angled grassy area then make a roped scramble to the belay above Mestizo. Set up your spare rope to get to the Hustler bay or Phaedra area. This avoids the long sea level traverse and return walk and allows you to see off a few routes in a day. Not recommended for those new to the cliff.
Further to the above, head left from the top of the Easter Island Gully to find this block (see Photo) a 100m ab takes you down to the bottom of Heroin/Phaedra/Hustler as you wish. One or two re-belays recommended to direct the rope. Take water and snacks down to your re-belay and knock off as many routes as you can! To the left (looking out goes) down Heroin. To the right (looking out) sets you up for Phaedra and Hustler.
Access by the competent to the far end of the Main Cliff is possible by approaching as for Easter Island. Take a spare rope. Continue toward Main Cliff and slightly downhill to reach the large boulder where you would coil up after escaping this side of MC. Abseil 70>100' from a block on the top of the escape gully to a belay on the easy angled grassy area then make a roped scramble to the belay above Mestizo. Set up your spare rope to get to the Hustler bay or Phaedra area. This avoids the long sea level traverse and return walk and allows you to see off a few routes in a day. Not recommended for those new to the cliff.
Further to the above, head left from the top of the Easter Island Gully to find this block (see Photo) a 100m ab takes you down to the bottom of Heroin/Phaedra/Hustler as you wish. One or two re-belays recommended to direct the rope. Take water and snacks down to your re-belay and knock off as many routes as you can! To the left (looking out goes) down Heroin. To the right (looking out) sets you up for Phaedra and Hustler.
The routes
Interpolator
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Sunstroke E1 *
One of the first routes to catch the morning sun. Approach as for Cordon Bleu etc by a careful scramble down from beneath Bezel to belay as for Cordon Bleu at a large embedded flake in a small grassy bay. Initially takes the obvious rampline (left of embedded flake).
1.30m 5b Climb the rampline leftwards into the corner at 10m - old peg. Layback the big crack on the right to a rest at a horizontal break. Using small sidepulls & undercuts traverse back left, crossing the rampline & move round an arete into a corner. Belay. 2. 25m 5b Climb above the belay up the corner athletically to an escape left. Finish diagonally left up the easier flake crack of Diogenes . .
Diogenes
Variation
Direct Start (starts up Resolution)
Pola-ride E4 6b This is now "MIstaken Identity" as it would appear that the first pitch was actually Sunstroke. Rather butch climbing!
1. The first pitch of Diogenes.
2. Move right from the Diogenes belay around a rib until beneath two cracks running the length of a steep wall. Pull into the right hand crack, climb this by strenuous laybacking until the slab above is reached. Climb direct for a few moves until a balancy move left puts you into the corner system that leads easily to the top. Approximately 30 metres. It would be possible to climb the 1st and second pitch together with careful ropework and fit arms. This would give a pretty good and sustained pitch.
Nick Bullock/ Dan McMannus. 19/6/08 pointed at this by Simon Marsh who has done an amazing cleaning job whle checking routes for the new guide.
Pola-ride E4 6b This is now "MIstaken Identity" as it would appear that the first pitch was actually Sunstroke. Rather butch climbing!
1. The first pitch of Diogenes.
2. Move right from the Diogenes belay around a rib until beneath two cracks running the length of a steep wall. Pull into the right hand crack, climb this by strenuous laybacking until the slab above is reached. Climb direct for a few moves until a balancy move left puts you into the corner system that leads easily to the top. Approximately 30 metres. It would be possible to climb the 1st and second pitch together with careful ropework and fit arms. This would give a pretty good and sustained pitch.
Nick Bullock/ Dan McMannus. 19/6/08 pointed at this by Simon Marsh who has done an amazing cleaning job whle checking routes for the new guide.
Achilles E3 50m **.
The obvious crack left of Diogenes. Start as for Diogenes.
1.10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.
2.40m. 5c. Climb the crack to a big flake at 17m. From its top make hard moves tup the crack, a strenuous finale leads to the last moves of Diogenes.
Pat Littlejohn, John Mothersele. (9/91).
Achilles cleaned 29th Sept 07 as part of guidebook work. Good route.
Achilles cleaned 29th Sept 07 as part of guidebook work. Good route.
Coming on Strong E6 50m.
The immaculate orange face left of Achilles. Sustained climbing in the upper part. Start as for Diogenes.
1.10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.
2.40m. 6b/c. Climb the slabby face left of Achilles, then bear right till beside the big flake on that route. Move left and up a groove to an overhang, then break back right to a rest spot. Climb the twin cracks left of Achilles to a peg, then launch up left on a shallow ramp to another thin crack. Pull past the bulge on the right until good holds lead up the final face.
Pat Littlejohn, Mark Diggins. (10/91).
Coming on Strong cleaned 29th Sept 07 as part of guidebook work
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Coming on Strong cleaned 29th Sept 07 as part of guidebook work
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Revelation
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Cordon Bleu VS**
A cheeky route that makes a high girdle of the main cliff in a devious fashion, and has bags of exposure for a straight forward, if somewhat commiting route
Seeyerlater
Aardvark E2 6a **
A fine sustained route that is something of a dichotomy part bold, part well protected and difficult. When linked with The Eternal Optomist makes a fine day out at the grade.
FA Al Evans, G Milburn, B Winteringham, Jim Moran. 23/7/78
FA Al Evans, G Milburn, B Winteringham, Jim Moran. 23/7/78
Imitator VS 60m *
A worthwhile route, which when linked with Bezel on the upper tier makes another fine outing.
Lardvark E2 6a 37m. (no harder than Aardvark)
Start up Imitator to small overlap. Surmount it and climb a little finger crack to join Aardvark just below it's crux. Do this and continue straight up a thin crack above to the top.
M.Crook, Rich Cutler. (6/93).
Lardvark cleaned 6th October as part of guidebook work - seems much harder than the grade given.- not really only E2
Lardvark cleaned 6th October as part of guidebook work - seems much harder than the grade given.- not really only E2
An amazing feature that feels like it goes on forever, it climbs the obvious corner just before the gogarth pinnacle. Climb the corner to the top, remember to save some gear for the top half! Reccomend 60m ropes if you don't want to belay on crud
Stimulator E3 5c **
Stimulator cleaned 6th October as part of guidebook work. Good route
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Simulator
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Devils Marbles E5 6b 55m
The wall and grooves right of Resolution Direct. Follow the crack right of Resolution up to a wall below the first roof. A few thin moves brings the roof. Lunge out of the right side of the roof to good holes. Attack the following roof via the crack that leads to the small corner. Hard moves lead to easier ground which is taken to a ledge right of the Resolution belay. Mike Twid Turner and Stuart McAleese, May 2006
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Resolution
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Resolution
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Resolution Direct
1. 43m. 5a. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Up this then the corner/groove above until moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2. 48m. 5b (can feel harder when greasy). Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right, climb it past a trying section to reach a flake crack on the left. Up this (possible belay for masochists) then launch leftwards up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays.
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Falls Road E4
Bubbly Situation Blues E4
ET E6
Start by taking the Skinhead Moonstomp corner direct.
1. 6b. Climb the corner direct left of Positron until level with the Positron belay traverse right to belay. This climbs higher than the original traverse and is quite spicy!
2. 5c. As for Rat Race
3. 6b.Climb the slim pillar left of theRat Race chimney.
The crack in the arête is attacked direct via hard long reaches. A good runner is reached then continue on spaced holes to the cordon bleu traverse. 4. Finish as for Cordon Bleu. Twid and Louise Thomas. The 3rd pitch is excellent and totally independent of all other pitches. 1. 43m. 5a. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Up this then the corner/groove above until moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2. 48m. 5b (can feel harder when greasy). Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right, climb it past a trying section to reach a flake crack on the left. Up this (possible belay for masochists) then launch leftwards up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays.
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Gogarth E1 ***
A fine route with varied and interesting climbing. Start on the right side of the large pinnacle at the right hand end of the main cliff.
1. 20m. 4b. Up the wide crack in the corner to belay on top of the pinnacle.
2. 20m. 5a. Step back down a little, then briskly rightwards across a steep wall and around the arête to the sanctuary of a shallow groove. Up this, bearing left around an overlap, then move left to a large sloping ledge directly above the previous belay.
3. 35m. 4c. Climb the short crack above the left end of the ledge then trend rightwards to a good ledge (possible belay). Up the steep groove, the right side of a large flake, to a stance on top of the flake.
4. 40m. 5b. Go rightwards (7m) to a ledge below a steep crack. Up this, not as positive as one would like to start with, then continue in the same line to the top.
Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen, 1964.
Devotee E2
1. 20m. 4b. Up the wide crack in the corner to belay on top of the pinnacle.
2. 20m. 5a. Step back down a little, then briskly rightwards across a steep wall and around the arête to the sanctuary of a shallow groove. Up this, bearing left around an overlap, then move left to a large sloping ledge directly above the previous belay.
3. 35m. 4c. Climb the short crack above the left end of the ledge then trend rightwards to a good ledge (possible belay). Up the steep groove, the right side of a large flake, to a stance on top of the flake.
4. 40m. 5b. Go rightwards (7m) to a ledge below a steep crack. Up this, not as positive as one would like to start with, then continue in the same line to the top.
Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen, 1964.
Devotee E2
1. 5b.Diagonally left from the start of Gogarth across face of pinnacle. Line not that obvious till you get on it and the moves up to the arete seemed hard for 5a.
2. 5c. Short and sharp direct off Gogarth Pinnacle then nondescript climbing slightly left to theGogarth belay, climb diagonally right to a groove, exit left to a belay at the base of the big flake on Gogarth.
3. 5b.The slabby wall left of the Gogarth flake. Looks completely green and hairy but holds were just clear (well done my mate for having a go on the sharp end despite appearances) and there were decent runners about half way up. A gritty topout is avoidable by moving into Gogarth. (possibly easier if clean). Could be avoided completely by going up Gogarth for a pitch. Well worth continuing one way or another as top pitch is excellent
4.5c. A really good exposed pitch with no green hair to speak of. Start up and right as for the last pitch of Gogarth but take the first groove/crack you come to. It gets steep and exposed and feels committing at one point although there is decent gear.
2. 5c. Short and sharp direct off Gogarth Pinnacle then nondescript climbing slightly left to theGogarth belay, climb diagonally right to a groove, exit left to a belay at the base of the big flake on Gogarth.
3. 5b.The slabby wall left of the Gogarth flake. Looks completely green and hairy but holds were just clear (well done my mate for having a go on the sharp end despite appearances) and there were decent runners about half way up. A gritty topout is avoidable by moving into Gogarth. (possibly easier if clean). Could be avoided completely by going up Gogarth for a pitch. Well worth continuing one way or another as top pitch is excellent
4.5c. A really good exposed pitch with no green hair to speak of. Start up and right as for the last pitch of Gogarth but take the first groove/crack you come to. It gets steep and exposed and feels committing at one point although there is decent gear.
Return to Garth Gog E4
A modern eliminate based around Gogarth.
1 23m. 6a. Climb the overhanging crack in the front face of the Gogarth Pinnacle. Well protected but strenuous.
2 6a. Start in the crack of Falls Road and after 8 metres, climb up and right via sloping holds to the right hand side of a sloping ledge.
3 4c. Ramble and climb to the base of Gogarth, pitch 4 (the big corner).
4 50m. 5c. Climb the obvious flaky crack to its junction with the top pitch of Gogarth. Finish as for Gogarth.
Mike Turner, Louise.Thomas, Graham MacMahon. (11/94).
Falls Road E4
Bubbly Situation Blues E4
A good strenuous first pitch, but the second pitch is very overgrown. Start from the first stance of Rat Race, a ledge on the pinnacle.
1.25m. 6a. Follow the steep groove on the left of the ledge to a respite, then steep again above in a good position to gain a smelly ledge. Continue up the easier groove to gain ledges and a mediocre belay on the right (friend 0, couple of ok wires).
2. A bit of a blind alley. Step back left and follow the technical groove for a few m. Either attempt to follow the original line, left across the thin totally lichenous slab to the top of the Rat Race chimney, or bail out right to unprotected but easier overgrown rock up to a belay on Cordon Bleu. The cleaner continuation groove is the obvious line but desperate and unprotected
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The Rat Race E3 **
Good climbing with some very impressive scenery. Start on the large ledge to the left of the Gogarth pinnacle. At high tide or in high seas the traverse around the base of the pinnacle is inadvisable and the start of pitch 2. can be reached by climbing over the pinnacle (via Gogarth pitch one).
1. 12m. 5a. Steeply up the wall just to the left of the pinnacle to the large ledge on the pinnacle.
2. 30m. 5c. Step left and climb diagonally left to a tricky move up at 8m. Continue in the same line reach and climb an open chimney to a curving overlap. Follow this leftwards and up in a fine position; steep, strenuous and usually seeping. Continue up right onto a steep slab leading to a well-positioned stance. Great stuff.
3. 25m. 5b. Climb the intimidating brown chimney directly above, brittle and poorly protected, exiting rightwards. Up the slab to belay on Cordon Bleu, to the right of the tip of a large flake.
4. 20m. 4c. Shuffle down and right to climb a steep groove, the left side of a large flake, to a stance at the top as for Gogarth 3rd belay.
5. 30m. 5a Go back down slightly and left across the wall to a crackline. Up this, following the right branch. Move left around a rib to an easier crack, up this belaying well back.
1. 12m. 5a. Steeply up the wall just to the left of the pinnacle to the large ledge on the pinnacle.
2. 30m. 5c. Step left and climb diagonally left to a tricky move up at 8m. Continue in the same line reach and climb an open chimney to a curving overlap. Follow this leftwards and up in a fine position; steep, strenuous and usually seeping. Continue up right onto a steep slab leading to a well-positioned stance. Great stuff.
3. 25m. 5b. Climb the intimidating brown chimney directly above, brittle and poorly protected, exiting rightwards. Up the slab to belay on Cordon Bleu, to the right of the tip of a large flake.
4. 20m. 4c. Shuffle down and right to climb a steep groove, the left side of a large flake, to a stance at the top as for Gogarth 3rd belay.
5. 30m. 5a Go back down slightly and left across the wall to a crackline. Up this, following the right branch. Move left around a rib to an easier crack, up this belaying well back.
Joe Brown and Pete Crew (1966) - several competing teams involved, hence the name
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Ordinary Route E5 ***
A proper route! A good first pitch, the best section of Positron and a stupendous 3rd pitch. Start on the large ledge 3 metres left of the Gogarth pinnacle as for Rat Race, Positron.
1. 35m. 6a. Climb steeply, bearing slightly rightwards then slightly left to the Rat Race traverse. From 5m along this, climb a shallow black groove, stepping left at its top. From a pillar up and R (cam), climb the short, ridiculously steep, golden wall, pulling left into the easier angled groove with some difficulty. Up the groove to the second Rat Race belay. Ideally, belay in an excellent position on the arete (good spikes and medium Friends) to prevent snagging in Positron crack to give a fine view of the following pitch.
2. 30m. 5c. As for Positron, pitch 3. Reverse Dinosaur to belay at an old peg, level with the Positron overhang. Large cams and wires for belay.
3. 40m. 5c. Step down and teeter left along the obvious ledge into a groove (on Mammoth) and up this to a small ledge. Go left across the steep wall on the obvious line of holds, or down and left (indirect, but a little easier) into Citadel. Up this to small ledges on the left. Across these and up a short corner (Graduation Ceremony) then move left across a very sloping ledge, around an outside corner to a large sloping ledge and belay.
4. 35m. 5b. Climb the steep groove to the left of the belay to a shallow cave. Take the right hand crack to finish.
Alec Sharp, Chris Dale, 1975.
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1. 35m. 6a. Climb steeply, bearing slightly rightwards then slightly left to the Rat Race traverse. From 5m along this, climb a shallow black groove, stepping left at its top. From a pillar up and R (cam), climb the short, ridiculously steep, golden wall, pulling left into the easier angled groove with some difficulty. Up the groove to the second Rat Race belay. Ideally, belay in an excellent position on the arete (good spikes and medium Friends) to prevent snagging in Positron crack to give a fine view of the following pitch.
2. 30m. 5c. As for Positron, pitch 3. Reverse Dinosaur to belay at an old peg, level with the Positron overhang. Large cams and wires for belay.
3. 40m. 5c. Step down and teeter left along the obvious ledge into a groove (on Mammoth) and up this to a small ledge. Go left across the steep wall on the obvious line of holds, or down and left (indirect, but a little easier) into Citadel. Up this to small ledges on the left. Across these and up a short corner (Graduation Ceremony) then move left across a very sloping ledge, around an outside corner to a large sloping ledge and belay.
4. 35m. 5b. Climb the steep groove to the left of the belay to a shallow cave. Take the right hand crack to finish.
Alec Sharp, Chris Dale, 1975.
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Positron E5 ***
An audacious line and the quintessential Gogarth E5. The difficulties are not as great as they can seem on first acquaintance, especially if one of the easier options is taken on the middle pitch. Start on the large ledge just left of the Gogarth pinnacle, as for Rat Race, Ordinary Route.
1. 18m. 5b. Climb diagonally up and right into a scoop then back left via a flake heading towards the arête. From a ramp on the arête, trend diagonally back right to belay under the curving overlap.
2. 12m. 6a. You are aiming for the Rat Race second belay. There are several ways of getting there:
(a) 6a. The first ascentionist’s line: pull up to stand on the big juggy spikes, then traverse horizontally left with hands just above the next roof into the groove of Alien. Up this. Exposed, hard, and strenuous.
(b) 6a. In the spirit of the original: Continue 10’ further up the wall from the juggy spikes. Move round the arête, level with an obvious rugosity, into the disconcertingly holdless groove. Unexpectedly on-off for a couple of moves.
(c) 5c. Cop out straight up or rightwards to join Rat Race. The line of least resistance, but you will have not have climbed Positron.
3. 30m. 5c. Make sure your belayer is positioned so they can see you on the headwall, it's quite easy to snag the ropes in the crack otherwise. From the spike on the arête, follow the crack across the headwall for a few feet. Steep. Get the gear in, scuttle back to the spike and regain your composure. Admire the view, watch the seals and make a mental note to avoid leading the chimney pitch should you ever find yourself on Rat Race. Re-rack your gear, tighten your boots and indulge in any other procrastination your second will tolerate. Once you have lost any benefit of the warm-up, commit to the wall again. The crack fades, forcing a harder move up. Traverse horizontally left for 10' to the small overhang. Get on with it here: it’s easier than it looks. Good gear can be had at the overhang but it’s still steep and fiddly to place. One more awkward move up round the left side of the overhang and it’s all over. A few more feet on the same line and you are in the Dinosaur grove. Stitch together an adequate belay and focus your camera on the traverse to the overhang for the 1978 guide cover-shot. Finish up Dinosaur, Cordon Bleu or, for more of the same, the last pitch of Ordinary Route.
Alan Rouse, Pete Minks 1971 (5pt aid). FFA A.Sharp
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1. 18m. 5b. Climb diagonally up and right into a scoop then back left via a flake heading towards the arête. From a ramp on the arête, trend diagonally back right to belay under the curving overlap.
2. 12m. 6a. You are aiming for the Rat Race second belay. There are several ways of getting there:
(a) 6a. The first ascentionist’s line: pull up to stand on the big juggy spikes, then traverse horizontally left with hands just above the next roof into the groove of Alien. Up this. Exposed, hard, and strenuous.
(b) 6a. In the spirit of the original: Continue 10’ further up the wall from the juggy spikes. Move round the arête, level with an obvious rugosity, into the disconcertingly holdless groove. Unexpectedly on-off for a couple of moves.
(c) 5c. Cop out straight up or rightwards to join Rat Race. The line of least resistance, but you will have not have climbed Positron.
3. 30m. 5c. Make sure your belayer is positioned so they can see you on the headwall, it's quite easy to snag the ropes in the crack otherwise. From the spike on the arête, follow the crack across the headwall for a few feet. Steep. Get the gear in, scuttle back to the spike and regain your composure. Admire the view, watch the seals and make a mental note to avoid leading the chimney pitch should you ever find yourself on Rat Race. Re-rack your gear, tighten your boots and indulge in any other procrastination your second will tolerate. Once you have lost any benefit of the warm-up, commit to the wall again. The crack fades, forcing a harder move up. Traverse horizontally left for 10' to the small overhang. Get on with it here: it’s easier than it looks. Good gear can be had at the overhang but it’s still steep and fiddly to place. One more awkward move up round the left side of the overhang and it’s all over. A few more feet on the same line and you are in the Dinosaur grove. Stitch together an adequate belay and focus your camera on the traverse to the overhang for the 1978 guide cover-shot. Finish up Dinosaur, Cordon Bleu or, for more of the same, the last pitch of Ordinary Route.
Alan Rouse, Pete Minks 1971 (5pt aid). FFA A.Sharp
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Eraserhead E5 **
Good climbing based on the square cut left arete of the lower wall and the right arete of the Positron headwall. High in the grade.
1.30m. 6a. Start from the large ledge just left of the Gogarth pinnacle. Climb the left arete of the wall to join Positron at the end of pitch 1. Continue up the arete to gain the belay at the end of The Rat-Race pitch 2, below the Positron headwall.
2.30m. 6a. From the spike on the arête, get some gear in the initial crack of the Positron headwall. Climb boldly up the overhanging right arête of the headwall in a very spectacular position. Belay on Cordon Bleu. I would recommend finishing up Alien. G.Farquhar, C.Waddy AL (on-sight), 1988
Start by taking the Skinhead Moonstomp corner direct.
1. 6b. Climb the corner direct left of Positron until level with the Positron belay traverse right to belay. This climbs higher than the original traverse and is quite spicy!
2. 5c. As for Rat Race
3. 6b.Climb the slim pillar left of theRat Race chimney.
Skinhead Moonstomp E6 ***
A totally amazing route, one of the best E6 outings on Gogarth. On the other hand, some people claim this route is overrated and the big pitch is a poor eliminate (but I bet they failed to flash it ;-). It takes an incredible line up the very centre of the Positron headwall. You get the highlights of Positron and The Big Sleep into the bargain. The first pitch takes the large corner at the base of the Positron headwall.
1.18m. 6a. Climb the corner and surmount a small bulge below where the corner fades into masssive overhangs. Traverse rightwards to reach the belay at the end of Positron pitch 1.
2.40m. 6b. Follow Positron leftwards into the groove of Alien. Continue left and up to gain a shallow niche, no-hands rest and good runners. You are now at the very base of the headwall and above you is an amazing soaring flakeline. Enjoy the view. Climb out of the niche to gain the flake and layback up this in a fantastic and increasingly pumpy position. The flakeline eventually peters out at a small flake (very thin sling runner). Continue straight up on face holds to join the headwall pitch of Positron.Follow Positron for a few moves to a good shake-out before the traverse to the overhang. The remainder of the route is common with The Big Sleep.Step right and climb a vertical crack which leads to the "bucket seat" belay in the apex of the headwall. Congratulations.
It's best to do a short pitch from the bucket seat belay to belay again on Cordon Bleu before choosing a finish.
A.Pollitt, S.Lewis (1984)
Alien E6 ***
One of the most striking lines on the Main Cliff and the hardest of the three star E5s - hence the E6 grade! Combined with Positron's 3rd pitch makes for one of the best routes of the grade in the Stratosphere. Start up the slanting crackline to the right of the Dinosaur Chimney.
1. 6b.Steep bridging up the crack leads to a series of committing layback and undercut moves to reach a small roof (crucial runner). From here, a very unobvious sequence of blind slaps will probably not establish you in the groove above. Follow this easily to the Positron belay. Take cam 4 and a 1/2.
2. Climb the chimney of Rat Race, then slabs to reach the Cordon Bleu traverse line and belay. (I thought you were supposed to exit left after a few metres and climb the difficult groove?) Yes, the exit left is the proper line, hard and hairy - probabl through lack of traffic.
3. Move right to the base of an obvious crackline and follow this, very sustained, to a difficult move leftwards out of the top of the crack (lots of medium cams useful).
Pat Littlejohn, 1980
Variation
Variation
1a. Direct start to Alien E6 6b
Climb the crack direct instead of the easy ramp to its left.. Twid and G.Farquhar, 1989
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Dinosaur E5 *** (E4 compared to the other E5s, with modern, small cams, the 'bold runout' is no longer. However the crux of the first pitch is often greasy and is difficult in these conditions.)
A classic - well protected with good holds, but steep throughout. A good introduction to the harder Main Cliff routes. A full set of cams and slings are useful. Start at the base of an obvious chimney 10 metres left of the ledge at the base of Positron.
1. 6b.Climb the chimney (often damp) until it steepens at a small roof (large friend up and right). Swing out left onto the wall (crux) and climb with some urgency (small cams useful) on increasingly better holds to belay on vague ledges just to the left of the continuation chimney (gear up and left for the belay).
2. 5b.Pull rightwards into the base of the steep chimney and follow this, without any particularly hard moves, but extremely sustained throughout, to reach the ledges of Cordon Bleu.
3. 5c.A fine and enjoyable pitch. Traverse rightwards for 5 metres until below a short black wall. A tricky boulder problem leads to a ledge. Arrange gear and swing rightwards into the groove in the arete. Follow this thoughtfully to the top.
P.Crew and J.Brown,1966. FFA R.Fawcett,1980
Dinosnore E6+ 6b
A massive linking pitch on Main Cliff at Gogarth. Climb the first pitch of Dinosaur through its crux section but then traverse back right to gain a flake which leads up into the second pitch of The Big Sleep. This monstrous pitch takes you all the way to the bucket seat belay above the diagonal traverse on the main Positron pitch. Jack Geldard, 2012. Anybody who fancies a repeat best get themselves some ‘long and light’ ropes – your old 50m strings won’t reach!
V12 http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/08/02/dinosnore-e6-6b-%E2%80%93-massive-linking-pitch-on-main-cliff/
Jack's blog http://jackgeldard.com/2012/07/28/gogarth-diaries-dinosnore-new-route-on-main-cliff/
Topo http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Dinosnore-topoV3.jpg
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Dinosnore E6+ 6b
A massive linking pitch on Main Cliff at Gogarth. Climb the first pitch of Dinosaur through its crux section but then traverse back right to gain a flake which leads up into the second pitch of The Big Sleep. This monstrous pitch takes you all the way to the bucket seat belay above the diagonal traverse on the main Positron pitch. Jack Geldard, 2012. Anybody who fancies a repeat best get themselves some ‘long and light’ ropes – your old 50m strings won’t reach!
V12 http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/08/02/dinosnore-e6-6b-%E2%80%93-massive-linking-pitch-on-main-cliff/
Jack's blog http://jackgeldard.com/2012/07/28/gogarth-diaries-dinosnore-new-route-on-main-cliff/
Topo http://news.v12outdoor.com/wp-content/uploads/Dinosnore-topoV3.jpg
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The Big Sleep E6 **
A superb and intricate line with difficult route finding on the second pitch. The first pitch should not to be underestimated in less than perfect conditions. Belay below the Dinosaur chimney. (2nd pitch is a poor eliminate? Climbable with a one foot in Dinosaur? - don't remember it feeling that way - TB. I think its a great pitch - SL)
1.6a.Follow Dinosaur for 15 metres until it is possible to step left onto the pillar (peg). Climb the pillar and trend leftwards on flat holds into a groove. Continue up the wall on more flat and sloping holds (sustained) to reach the Dinosaur belay.
2.6b.Traverse rightwards across the chimney of Dinosaur and follow undercuts to a large foothold and obvious flake crack (large wire). From here, climb fairly directly (small wires), just a few metres right of the Dinosaur chimney, with a move rightwards to reach a flat hold at the traverse line of Positron, just to the right of the roof. Turn the roof and trend rightwards to the Bucket Seat belay. (Note: This is the Variation as described in the 1991 guide book and is probably the more logical and frequently climbed.)
Ron Fawcett, Jim Moran (1980). Direct on pitch 2 by J.Redhead
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Mammoth E5 ***
The black sheep of the E5 family with a powerful crux sequence on the first pitch and a typically intricate, bold and pumpy second pitch. Start at the left-facing corner between the chimneys of Mammoth Direct and Dinosaur.
1. 6b.Climb the the corner and traverse leftwards below the roof to a rest. Psyche up and power through the bulges above, on pockets (old pegs and big cams), until you can step left as the angle eases into the respite of a small corner. Breathe. Follow better holds left of the groove and climb the wall above, moving right to belay on a good ledge.
2.5c.Move rightwards from the belay onto a vague rib. Climb up using fins until it is possible to pull left into the groove (peg). Follow this, sustained throughout to exit via the left-facing corner at the top.
3. ?
FFA A.Pollitt
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Variation:
Variation:
Mammoth - Direct Finish
3 40m. 6a. Up the short wall as for Dinosaur, then go straight up the open corner above and continue direct to the top.
Eddie Cooper, P.Littlejohn. (21/5/95).
Wall of Fossils
First pitch worth 6b, second pitch is crap and very eliminate.
Mammoth Direct 30m E6 6b ***
The massive vertical chimney slot which bounds the right hand side of the impressive white wall taken by Extinction and Hunger. Sustained climbing with good protection. Steep bridging leads up the chimney and onwards to a junction with the first pitch of Mammoth just before it's crux. Finish up this.
A.Pollitt and M.Crook, 26/5/84.
Extinction 30m E8 6b ***
Takes the wall right of Hunger. Climb the wall immediately left of the chimney (Mammoth Direct) until it is possible to move left and up to a flake with good runners. Move left along the obvious line to a spike and runner, crux moves lead straight up to another spike and then to a peg (missing) where improving holds lead up past the roofs to a wild finish.
Steve Mayers (25/4/91). Climbed ground-up over a few days by Stuart Cameron and confirmed at E8, 26/7/93. One of the earliest ground up E8 ascents in the UK.
Hunger E5***
The pristine lower white wall has a thread in it, which helps with routefinding. Wear your shades if the sun is out!
1. 20m. 6a. Climb up a short crack then break out left to gain wonderful pockets and pinches leading to a thread. Traverse left with difficulty, then up to gain the sentry box of Citadel and a no-hands rest. Climb up and right under the roof, which is split by cracks. Arrange large cams and pull blindly over the roof on jams, undercuts and fins to easier ground.
1. 20m. 6a. Climb up a short crack then break out left to gain wonderful pockets and pinches leading to a thread. Traverse left with difficulty, then up to gain the sentry box of Citadel and a no-hands rest. Climb up and right under the roof, which is split by cracks. Arrange large cams and pull blindly over the roof on jams, undercuts and fins to easier ground.
2. 20m. 5c. Climb up above the belay then traverse rightwards, aiming for a corner. Climb up this to belay on a ledge.
3. 20m. 5a. Yawn, yawn, yawn. Make your way to the top of the cliff.
3. 20m. 5a. Yawn, yawn, yawn. Make your way to the top of the cliff.
P.Littlejohn, C King. 8/6/78
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Variation
Ramadan E5 6b ***
2a.An excellent variation for a hungry party. Climb more or less directly up the orange wall above the belay on mostly good edges, with a hard crux past an undercut. Sustained, but with good gear if you can place it. C.Waddy and J.Dawes,1988
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Citadel E5***
Yet another superb line, the sustained second pitch is one of the finest at Gogarth. One short section on the first pitch is hard to on-sight, the route would be E4 6a with one point of aid here, and arguably more balanced in this form. Start 2m left of Hunger, about 12m left of the chimney of Mammoth Direct, directly beneath a line of undercut flakes.
1. 40m. 6b. Climb straight up, then bear left with more difficulty to the start of the undercut flakes. Traverse right following the flakes to a niche. Swing out left and somehow climb the leaning wall (antique inverted knifeblade - missing as of July 2012) to gain a sloping shelf. Climb up and right much more easily to a long ledge below the impressive gently overhanging crack.
2. 35m. 6a. Climb the short steep wall then a move right gains the crack proper. Up this, past ancient iron (and aluminium) -mongery, finally reaching a welcome slab.
3. 25m. Easily up the groove to a good ledge and belay on the large blocks on the left. Alpine off.
Jack Street and G Hibberd (9 pts aid) 1968. FFA Ron Fawcett 1977.
Graduation Ceremony E4 ***
1. 40m. 6b. Climb straight up, then bear left with more difficulty to the start of the undercut flakes. Traverse right following the flakes to a niche. Swing out left and somehow climb the leaning wall (antique inverted knifeblade - missing as of July 2012) to gain a sloping shelf. Climb up and right much more easily to a long ledge below the impressive gently overhanging crack.
2. 35m. 6a. Climb the short steep wall then a move right gains the crack proper. Up this, past ancient iron (and aluminium) -mongery, finally reaching a welcome slab.
3. 25m. Easily up the groove to a good ledge and belay on the large blocks on the left. Alpine off.
Jack Street and G Hibberd (9 pts aid) 1968. FFA Ron Fawcett 1977.
Graduation Ceremony E4 ***
Borderline E4/5. Excellent climbing, if slightly overshadowed by some more famous neighbours. The main event is the crack-line parallel to the second pitch of Citadel. This has a steeper, harder crux but is not as sustained as that route. Start just left of Citadel, below small overhangs beneath a short corner. .
1. 35m 5c. Up to and through the overhang to the short corner. Climb this and swing out left, easier than it looks, then move up left to ledges. Go up a short steep corner to a large sloping ledge (First belay, Big Groove). Belay at the right hand end of the ledge beneath a steep quartzy corner.
2. 20m 6a. Up the corner, then bear rightwards to the crackline. Follow this to some ledges. Continue in the same line over some bulges then traverse right to the slab and belay of Citadel.
3. 25m. Finish as for Citadel.
Alec Sharp and R.Toomer,1976
Graduation Ceremony – Big Groove is an excellent combination at sustained E3
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1. 35m 5c. Up to and through the overhang to the short corner. Climb this and swing out left, easier than it looks, then move up left to ledges. Go up a short steep corner to a large sloping ledge (First belay, Big Groove). Belay at the right hand end of the ledge beneath a steep quartzy corner.
2. 20m 6a. Up the corner, then bear rightwards to the crackline. Follow this to some ledges. Continue in the same line over some bulges then traverse right to the slab and belay of Citadel.
3. 25m. Finish as for Citadel.
Alec Sharp and R.Toomer,1976
Graduation Ceremony – Big Groove is an excellent combination at sustained E3
.
Food and Drink E6 **
1.30m.6b.Start up Graduation Ceremony and climb direct up the awesome groove, through a roof (last gear), and left on to the rib and up this to the Citadel Belay.
2.27m.6b.From the sloping ledge at the base of the main pitch of Big Groove,climb up the right side of the next groove to the right.
Food: Paul Pritchard, Ben Pritchard. (on-sight).
Drink: A.Wainwright, C.Waddy, on-sight. (27/5/92)
Tom Briggs and Adam Wainwright did the first combo. Adam led the first pitch, Tom pulled a ledge off the second and fell onto a no. 2 RP, Adam then took over a led it clean.
Second combo ascent G. Farquhar and N. Craine (AL), 1993
Sebastopol E4(This is E5 and solid at that)***
A good strenuous line based on the left edge of the main section. Start 5m left of Graduation Ceromony at the base of a short crack.
1. 40m. 6a. Climb the crack very strenuously( a fight to get the gear in) to a junction with Graduation Ceremony. Go left and up into a continuation groove on the right which leads to ledges. Traverse right along the ledges and go up a short wall to belay beneath a steep quarty corner, as for Graduation Ceremony.
2. 25m. 6a. Climb the corner than break out left onto the steep wall via a slanting crack. Some very hard moves then gain the left arete. Not long now before the holds improve as a traverse back right is made to a sloping ledge. belay on the left at a thread in a crack.
3. 30m. 5a. Climb the groove on the right and the wall above to reach ledges and the top.
A good strenuous line based on the left edge of the main section. Start 5m left of Graduation Ceromony at the base of a short crack.
1. 40m. 6a. Climb the crack very strenuously( a fight to get the gear in) to a junction with Graduation Ceremony. Go left and up into a continuation groove on the right which leads to ledges. Traverse right along the ledges and go up a short wall to belay beneath a steep quarty corner, as for Graduation Ceremony.
2. 25m. 6a. Climb the corner than break out left onto the steep wall via a slanting crack. Some very hard moves then gain the left arete. Not long now before the holds improve as a traverse back right is made to a sloping ledge. belay on the left at a thread in a crack.
3. 30m. 5a. Climb the groove on the right and the wall above to reach ledges and the top.
The Tet Offensive
2nd pitch worth 6a and bold
FA Jim Moran, P Williams. 20/5/79
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FA Jim Moran, P Williams. 20/5/79
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The Wastelands - new 2nd pitch description:
2 6a. This pitch climbs the very hairy wall to the left of The Big Groove. Trend up and left on good holds to some flakes. Step right into a thin crack and make difficult moves, poor peg, to a junction with Puzzle Me Quick. Ascend the left-facing groove and exit right, around the arête, onto the hairy slab. Escape right into The Big Groove, nut belay.
FA Jim Moran, G Milburn, Al Evans 28/7/78
FA Jim Moran, G Milburn, Al Evans 28/7/78
The Big Groove
Pegs on the 2nd belay in a poor state, belay 2m left at the start of 2nd pitch. Peg on the crux missing
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Pegs on the 2nd belay in a poor state, belay 2m left at the start of 2nd pitch. Peg on the crux missing
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The Big Groove Direct E4 5c***
A 3 star alternative...and a better finishing pitch than the original.
As for Big groove , Pitch 1 & 2
3.35m. 5c/6a After the crux pitch of this route take the more direct continuation corner groove/wall. (The original avoids this by taking the crumbling groove/crack out L). Climb the steep wall/corner to a protruding block (fragile and possibly missing; The guidebook description (and most other sources) describe a creaky flake on the main pitch of TBGD at, I reckon, about 6m height. This definately wasn't there on friday and the two cruxes before the crack doglegs back into the groove both felt 6a maybe even soft 6b?? The route's still totally safe (with plenty of rp4s and rock 1s) and not very pumpy, at least not on the arms. Alex Mason, 6th March 2012). Continue up using flakey, but solid, holds to a small ledge on the arete and follow the continuation crack into the corner. Pull up and bear rightwards into a groove which is followed over a bulge to belay on easier ground.
4. The usual Main Cliff plod follows.
Pentathol HVS 5a *
Pentathol HVS 5a *
A nice route with an excellent and varied first pitch. Start about 20 ft right (facing in) of the large block on the sea-level traverse. Far above and to the right you can see the right wall of Big Groove.
128m 5a. Climb up a white wall for 10 ft and then traverse rightwards boldly across the steep wall, using large flake/spike handholds to move up onto a ledge. Continue right to a corner. Climb up a few feet and then step up into the brown left-facing corner. Climb delicately up the brown wall and traverse left under the quartzy overlap (careful with rope drag). Move up into a second longer left-facing corner. Climb the corner, which is pleasantly sustained, to pull out right at the top onto a sloping ledge with belays.
2 4b Downclimb the top of the corner of pitch 1 for about 10 ft until it it possible to step across left into a corner/crack. Climb this and the wall on the left to reach a line of flakes leading diagonally up left to a stance below a groove.
3 4c (probably harder) Climb the groove above, going left around the first bulge, until below a short overhanging wall with a sloping ledge on top. Make surprisingly awkward moves up this and onto the ledge. Climb the short groove/wall to the left to a belay on top on the block.
To exit, scramble up behind the belay, climb the short green groove and continue up grassy slopes and another groove to the top. It may be best to stay roped up for this.
128m 5a. Climb up a white wall for 10 ft and then traverse rightwards boldly across the steep wall, using large flake/spike handholds to move up onto a ledge. Continue right to a corner. Climb up a few feet and then step up into the brown left-facing corner. Climb delicately up the brown wall and traverse left under the quartzy overlap (careful with rope drag). Move up into a second longer left-facing corner. Climb the corner, which is pleasantly sustained, to pull out right at the top onto a sloping ledge with belays.
2 4b Downclimb the top of the corner of pitch 1 for about 10 ft until it it possible to step across left into a corner/crack. Climb this and the wall on the left to reach a line of flakes leading diagonally up left to a stance below a groove.
3 4c (probably harder) Climb the groove above, going left around the first bulge, until below a short overhanging wall with a sloping ledge on top. Make surprisingly awkward moves up this and onto the ledge. Climb the short groove/wall to the left to a belay on top on the block.
To exit, scramble up behind the belay, climb the short green groove and continue up grassy slopes and another groove to the top. It may be best to stay roped up for this.
Peepshow
The third pitch of this route (common with Jaborandi) seems significantly harder than the first 2 pitches. Moving left before the easier ground feels more like E2 5b. There is an area of stained rock at this point. Has something fallen off?
The third pitch of this route (common with Jaborandi) seems significantly harder than the first 2 pitches. Moving left before the easier ground feels more like E2 5b. There is an area of stained rock at this point. Has something fallen off?
!!!!Totally agree with the above, I thought it pretty spicey for E1 5b, possibly 5c too?? To quote Streaky(a man of 65yrs experience on the rock) as he came to the belay "you wouldn't get much change out of E3 5c" the rock quality is classic Gogarth too, care needed!. Solid E2 5c i reckon and for an E1 leader it would be epic.
Also, there's a feisty Shag nesting on the 1st belay which renders it unusable probably for a good few weeks.(on eggs)
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Also, there's a feisty Shag nesting on the 1st belay which renders it unusable probably for a good few weeks.(on eggs)
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Jaborandi
Morphine
On the 3rd pitch of Morphine, climb 2m right of Pentathol, not 5m
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Syringe E3***
Solid at grade & previousy underrated. Harder than the Needle, easier than Assassin.
Start on top of the prominent square cut block. (The Camel and Hypodermic start in the bay to the left)
1.40m. 5c. Climb the wall to a rest and good runners (careful with drag) in the overhang. Step right into the centry box and climb aggressively over the bulge (crux) into the groove above. Follow this boldly (friable) to a further tricky move and trend leftward to a good belay ledge below a short steep wall and overhang.
2. 30m. 5c.Climb the steep wall above into the overhanging crackand follow this to a small ledge/break. Continue up the groove to the left of some bulges to a good belay ledgeand large embedded flake/boulder.This is a common belay for routes in this area.
3.Climb the cracks behind the belay and ramble to the top.
The Camel***
Hypodermic**
The Needle*** E3
FA Ray Evans, C Rogers 19/5/73
Brilliant climbing, steady for the grade with a short hard bit. Very well protected.
1. 5b. Start just left of the arete, and blast up the steep crack, which quickly eases. The corner above leads to the belay ledge, with a tricky ish move at the top.
2. 5c. Step off the right edge of the belay ledge with great exposure but loads of bomber kit. Storm up the awesome crack with loads of great gear, and big holds. The final steep bit is pretty tough for a couple of moves, with some wild laybacking. Land on the ledge, and squirm up the wide crack above (friend 4 useful), before a short easy, slightly loose bit leads to a palatial belay ledge.
3. 5a. The left hand crack in the wall gives nice climbing
Direct Finish
FA Al Evans, Jim Moran 5/7/78
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Brilliant climbing, steady for the grade with a short hard bit. Very well protected.
1. 5b. Start just left of the arete, and blast up the steep crack, which quickly eases. The corner above leads to the belay ledge, with a tricky ish move at the top.
2. 5c. Step off the right edge of the belay ledge with great exposure but loads of bomber kit. Storm up the awesome crack with loads of great gear, and big holds. The final steep bit is pretty tough for a couple of moves, with some wild laybacking. Land on the ledge, and squirm up the wide crack above (friend 4 useful), before a short easy, slightly loose bit leads to a palatial belay ledge.
3. 5a. The left hand crack in the wall gives nice climbing
Direct Finish
FA Al Evans, Jim Moran 5/7/78
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The Assassin*** 88m E3
Some great open face climbing on pitch 2. Start 3m right of Scavenger at the foot of the left of three cracks.
1 30m. 5b. Steeply climb the flared crack then head off rightwards, climbing a big crack or the steep wall to its right to gain the belay ledge shared with The Needle.
Some great open face climbing on pitch 2. Start 3m right of Scavenger at the foot of the left of three cracks.
1 30m. 5b. Steeply climb the flared crack then head off rightwards, climbing a big crack or the steep wall to its right to gain the belay ledge shared with The Needle.
2 40m. 5c. Climb the wall left of the belay and moving up and left through a steep section (peg) then move right to big foot-holds. Head back left to the base of the wall with a thin crack (spikes). The wall is steep but small sharp holds allow progress to a point where a span out left gains the sloping left arete. Climbing direct up the wall is much harder (6a), especially for those of normal stature and below. A sloping ledge is reached and the cracks above lead directly to two large spikes below the final crack of pitch 3.
3 18m. 4c. Race up the fine left-hand crack to the top.
Jim Moran,G Milburn, Al Evans. 11/7/78
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Jim Moran,G Milburn, Al Evans. 11/7/78
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Hyena
Scavenger
S Direct
Nightride E1 5b **
Pumpy, high in the grade but the difficulties are too short for E2.
Pumpy, high in the grade but the difficulties are too short for E2.
The Night Prowler * HVS 45m.
Really a variation on Scavenger Direct but with an airy leftwards slanting crack which leads into Nightride. Worthwhile
Really a variation on Scavenger Direct but with an airy leftwards slanting crack which leads into Nightride. Worthwhile
1 8m. 4c. As for Scavenger, pitch 1.
2 37m. 5a. Follow Scavenger Direct for 16 metres to an obvious overlap. Step up and left to the base of a steep crack which is followed on good holds until it is possible to step left into the bottom of the Nightride chimney/groove. Finish up this.
Pete Greening, Nick Sharp. (5/7/95)
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Dream Seller EI 5b *
Has a fairly serious feel with some 'adventurous' rock. (Could be soft E2 5a?).
Has a fairly serious feel with some 'adventurous' rock. (Could be soft E2 5a?).
FA Jim Moran, G Milburn 10/2/76
Heroin
Horse Above Water
Phaedra
Zed
Hud
Really good maybe worth an extra star the green crack is protectable with care all the holds have i think been cleaned recently
Mulatto
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Piglets Left boot E5 6b
Climb the right arête of Mestizo. Bold at start no runners. You would splash out. Till a thin crack is reached rt of Mestizo. Hard moves gain the belay.
Twid and Andy Townsend
"Andy dropped his boot into the sea while belaying, it floated for 20min then dived!"
Phaedra
Zed
Hud
Really good maybe worth an extra star the green crack is protectable with care all the holds have i think been cleaned recently
Mulatto
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Piglets Left boot E5 6b
Climb the right arête of Mestizo. Bold at start no runners. You would splash out. Till a thin crack is reached rt of Mestizo. Hard moves gain the belay.
Twid and Andy Townsend
"Andy dropped his boot into the sea while belaying, it floated for 20min then dived!"
Mestizo
Awesome wall, I thought it hard above the optional belay and much easier when the big crack was gained. 5a for the lower bit does not seem unreasonable.
Awesome wall, I thought it hard above the optional belay and much easier when the big crack was gained. 5a for the lower bit does not seem unreasonable.
The Three Musketeers ** E4 5c/6a
A great pitch up the wall between Hustler and Mestizo. Step out right to gain the central juggy flake, leading to Mestizo belay. Step left and up to gain the thin crack in an area of black rock, which leads excitingly to the top. Reaching the crack is a little bold, good gear mostly thereafter, though snappy sidepulls.
Big Ron, unseconded 21.10.79
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The Hustler
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The Third Man* E1 5b
FA Jim Moran, Al Evans 14/5/78
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Gringo
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The Third Man* E1 5b
FA Jim Moran, Al Evans 14/5/78
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Gringo
High Noon
Wrustler E3 5c
This superb new route takes the obvious gap between Gringo/High Noon and Wrangler (which can be clearly seen in the topo on P155 of the Gogarth North guide).
P1 5c 20m From ledge below Gringo, go up the arete to spike runners at 6m as for Wrangler, then traverse out left on good holds to jugs at the base of obvious scoop left of the tanned streak. Press into the scoop awkwardly, and then go up to gain a good break and good protection. Make a hard move through the bulge to reach the obvious leftward arcing flake, which leads steeply to great holds up and left and so the belay of Gringo etc.
P2 5b 18m Climb the finishing crack of Gringo direct from the belay. Awkward and goey. Tim Neill and Donald King June 2012 Source: V12
Wrangler
The Girdle Traverse
Trunk Line
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The Horizon E3 5c
Ed Drummond, Ben Cambell Kelly, (Al Evans on an earlier attempt) Climbed over 5 days. March 69.
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Wrustler E3 5c
This superb new route takes the obvious gap between Gringo/High Noon and Wrangler (which can be clearly seen in the topo on P155 of the Gogarth North guide).
P1 5c 20m From ledge below Gringo, go up the arete to spike runners at 6m as for Wrangler, then traverse out left on good holds to jugs at the base of obvious scoop left of the tanned streak. Press into the scoop awkwardly, and then go up to gain a good break and good protection. Make a hard move through the bulge to reach the obvious leftward arcing flake, which leads steeply to great holds up and left and so the belay of Gringo etc.
P2 5b 18m Climb the finishing crack of Gringo direct from the belay. Awkward and goey. Tim Neill and Donald King June 2012 Source: V12
Wrangler
The Girdle Traverse
Trunk Line
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The Horizon E3 5c
Ed Drummond, Ben Cambell Kelly, (Al Evans on an earlier attempt) Climbed over 5 days. March 69.
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Cordon Bleu, Horizon, Dream of White Horses.
A linking traverse of the Main cliff, Easter island and Wen Zawn, 26 pitches climbed in a day by Steve Long and Chris Parkin in 19..? steve will have date. SL or CP will sort out description |
duncan.ba |
Latest page update: made by duncan.ba
, Sep 24 2012, 6:46 AM EDT
(about this update
About This Update
citadel - missing peg on pitch 1
- duncan.ba
7 words added 1 word deleted view changes - complete history) |
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Keyword tags:
Gogarth - Main Cliff
More Info: links to this page
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| john2 | Aardvark | 6 | May 7 2012, 2:26 PM EDT by martinhaworth | ||
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Thread started: Sep 18 2007, 3:48 PM EDT
Watch
Does anone else think this one a little bold at E2 6A? At this grade I expect gear above my head on the hard move, but the 6A move is up and right of some less than bombproof gear.
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| ross7 | Eraserhead Pitch 2 | 1 | Jun 27 2009, 8:51 AM EDT by drevil | ||
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Thread started: Jun 25 2009, 12:24 PM EDT
Watch
I couldn't make the description in the new guide work for this pitch. After the hard bit, it says to move out R to a 'small furry corner'. I attempted to do this and encountered moves harder than I had done already with no gear. However the old guide says to go to a large niche R of the Bucket Seat. This makes more sense and climbs a better line up good rock with gear. To further confuse things, the line on the new topo goes straight up between the two possibilities I desrcibe! Worthwhile route whatever, and I agree with the regrading in the new guide.
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| flakemcflurry | Nightride | 1 | Apr 24 2009, 1:27 PM EDT by robpitt | ||
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Thread started: Sep 9 2007, 3:59 PM EDT
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Does anyone else think that E1 is quite an insult for this route? Its harder and steeper than the Strand, certainly harder than the 5b pitch on Gogarth, steeper and a touch more technical than Emulator. I could go on....and on... but when Breaking the Barrier gets a justified E1 5b then this is surely to god E2 for its steep and continuous moves at the standard. Also consider its position on the Main cliff. It is a very good route but three stars? Every pitch should be excellent for a three star route. However good it is, its not got excellent pitches at either end of the big pitch.I think E2 5b** .What do you think??
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Assassin.jpg (JPEG Image - 301k)
posted by drevil Mar 4 2007, 11:56 AM EST
Chris Parkin on The Assassin
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image8423.jpg (JPEG Image - 393k)
posted by drevil Mar 4 2007, 11:37 AM EST
Crispin Waddy on the first ascent of Eraserhead, 1988
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