Sign in or 
| Version | User | Scope of changes |
|---|---|---|
| Feb 27 2007, 11:20 AM EST (current) | everythingConnected | 60 words added, 2 words deleted |
| Feb 27 2007, 11:11 AM EST | everythingConnected | 5 words added, 1 word deleted |
Changes
Key: Additions Deletions
SEASONAL RESTRICTIONSThis venue has actually had climbing banned by the owners Trinity House, ever since the new bridge was built and the public were charged to cross the bridge. BMC to the rescue ??? -sort it out whoever reads this and can help.
This venue is subject to a seasonal restriction (see below) due to nesting birds from the 1st February to the 31st July. Breaking nthis ban will seriously affect access to the entire area. For more details visit THE BMC REGIONAL ACCESS DATABASE. After crossing the bridge, follow steps down into the first zawn on the right - obvious concrete diving board at the top of the zawn.
As I understand it the bird ban only affects the southern half of the island, with the northern half (containing most of the routes) not being banned. This is now rather academic since climbing is totally banned by the owners.
The first route lies on the mainland underneath the bridge, this should really come between Thunderbird and Moustrap Zawn in the main text:
Even Bigger Guns E3/4 5c 23m.
Abseil off South Stack bridge on the mainland side. Pull over a roof and trend up leftwards along a ramp to a short chimney and plants. Good protection.
G.Smith, N.Crain. (1994).
After crossing the bridge, follow steps down into the first zawn on the right - obvious concrete diving board at the top of the zawn.
A good route climbing the left wall of the zawn before trending rightwards over the arch to finish left of the diving board. Start at the steep hand crack leading off the slab above the steps. Follow the crack and then the groove on the right to a rest on a slabby ramp/groove. Cross the wall rightwards on fine South Stack rock, passing interesting quartz features to gain a sandy groove. Follow this to the top.
A.Wainwright, J.Wainwright (on-sight) 5/7/96
The right arête of the zawn and wall above the arch to finish at the diving board has been climbed at HVS by Crispin (solo)
Mippet Zawn / Arnold Seafood Zawn
This zawn lies just over the bridge and on the right. Next zawn right from the one with the steps.
Gonzo With the Wind 25m E4 6a
The left wall of the zawn. Climb the obvious central corner over a bulge then over a roof. The top wall is interesting.
M.Turner, Andy Farnell (onsight) 1/8/91
Another route, Arnold Seafood E2, 5c, 5c, (1987)
Starts on the other side of the island. Go over the bridge, and rightwards into a zawn. Go through the tunnel (5c), and into the squeeze chimney, to exit on the other side (north) of the island on a slab. The route takes a thin crack, past two overlaps. It may well be possible to approach the route by abseil from the top.
I think that the above 2 routes are the same, once the crazy through island approach to Arnold Seafood has been accounted for.
Just north of the bridge are three small right angled bays (Muppet Zawn being the second of these?) Hop over the wall, just on from the green gate. The first route takes the crack in the slab in the most northerly of these bays.
Tinky Winky 23m Severe (1997)
Start by scrambling down slopes to belay in a corner right of the slab at low tide. Traverse left on a quartzy band and climb the crack in the slab to a spike belay.
Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).
The next route is reached by traversing left (looking in) around the arête from Tinky Winky.
The Old Light 23m MXS (1997)
Belay on a pedistal below the curving crack/chimney. Make steep moves up to a large spike and climb the crack/chimney via a variety of cautious moves to a belay on the left.
Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).
The next route lies on the South Face, and is reached by abseiling from eyebolts near the lighthouse.
Steerpike 46m Hard Very Severe (R) (1973)
Steep and exciting. Start below the obvious groove, in the middle of the face.
1 23m. 5a. Climb the groove to the overlap, and traverse three metres right, then move up and go back left into the groove. Climb the wall on the right to a stance.
2 23m. 5a. Go back left, and then ascend a steep groove on worsening rock.
Take the same approach to gain
The Pipes, The Pipes 28 metres XS (R) (1987)
A serious and unrecommendable item. Upon emerging from the tunnel, a pipe can be seen exiting from a concrete groove. Climb the wall, three metres to its right, and go diagonally up to a bracket, and finish on appalling rock.
