Approach

The approach to the crag depends on which route you are climbing. A long abseil rope (80m+) helps greatly. For the first route that start of the left abseil to the fin that seperates left hand and right hand red walls. For the route that start around wendigo/Right Hand Red Wall there is a block that you can arrange a long abseil off towards the centre of the face, where it is possible with a long rope to descend straight to the bottom of the wall.

***The Missionary- Maze link-up 225m E4 (R) (1978/1970/2007?) A link-up of the two ‘Red Wall’ girdles provides a superb Gogarth Adventure. Nowhere are the difficulties excessive, but thoughtful route finding, care with the rock and diligence in seeking protection are pre-requisites to a successful outcome. All members of the party should be experienced at this grade on the Red Walls. All belays are good. Best left for a quiet day! Start from the ‘col’ at the left-hand end of the Left Hand Red Wall, reached by a short abseil from a huge spike in the slope above the left-hand arête. Nut and spike belay.
1 30m. 5b. From the ‘col’, traverse right passing large spikes until a step up gains a ledge line. Follow this then step down to cross a rib. Ascend slightly, crossing Cannibal, then continue rightwards across poor rock. Move right and up to gain the stance of Left Hand Red Wall.
2 28m 5c. Traverse right, to a step down to gain a good spike. Move right (crux) and descend the groove of Heart of Gold (well-protected). From its base, ascend diagonally rightwards past the Super Calabrese belay peg to a protruding ledge. Climb down, and then go right to gain a large layback flake (Pagan). Follow this to a hanging stance at its top.
3 35m 5b. Follow the obvious horizontal crack line, which leads into Anarchist at a large detached flake. Continue up Anarchist (the juggy crack line) to belay on a large ledge (on Red Wall Escape Route ramp) close to a large grey spike against the cliff.
4 30m 5c. climb the wall boldly above the grey pinnacle to a horizontal break, then move right, and go up to a sandy ledge. Move up right to the arête, and then continue right for 6m to good cracks, and a peg. Climb down for 3m, peg, and then across the wall reach a sharp downward pointing overhang/fang (recognisable by a small inverted V notch in its lip). Layback around this to gain a good ledge in the groove of Television Route. Small wires and small cam (F 1/2) required for the belay).
5 12m 5b. Climb down to good small ledges, then continue down for 2m, and step right to a corner (Redshift). Climb this, and move out right onto a sloping ledge, Wendigo, pitch 3 belay.
6 30m 5c. Traverse right to a small ledge. Move round the corner and onto a ledge on Red Haze. Go down the obvious broken grey ramp just right for 6m, until it is possible to gain the sandy white chimney/fault line (rapture of the Deep). Move up slightly then right to gain a similar fault line (Red Wall final pitch). Descend this for 4m to its belay (a white sandy alcove with several ancient pegs).
7 30m 5b. Climb across the wall until it is possible, at 3m, to pass a small protruding nose. Move right onto the fine red wall to gain a good flake (Fantasia). Climb this, then trend diagonally rightwards making exiting moves using jugs on the lip of a small roof to gain another white sandy chimney/fault line (Communication Breakdown). Climb down this (or the more solid, ramp immediately right) for 10m to a good ledge on A Brown Study.
8 30m 5b. Move right then up to gain sloping, red ledges. When these end, head diagonally rightwards past sandy rock to reach a short red wall. Climb this, then head up and rightwards to reach a natural thread where the slab meets the wall. Pull over here, and head easily, but carefully to the top. Belay from a low flat boulder and with a braced sitting down stance against the path edge! Link done (alts) 28/08/07 Mike Waters, Graham Hoey

**The Electrification of the Soviet Union 43m E4 6a (R) (1986)
A good route with some hard climbing on the superb compact golden wall. Start from the right side of the large sloping ledge, by two loose spikes. Ascend to a peg, then go up and left into an alcove. Traverse six metres left to a small ledge, which is horribly close to the ground. Originally, this point was gained from the left, The Cree (1978). Steep moves, in a rightwards diagonal line, lead to a very good finger-slot. A hard move up gains better holds and a rest in a horizontal break. Wander up more easily to a loose finish.

Steve Haston and ?

*Roger Melly… 40m (R) (1993)
Start as for The Electrification of the Soviet Union and climb up to beneath a roof. A hard pull gains a line of hold leading up to join Television Route. At the bolts and pegs, follow the break up and left to finish out at a sandy recess.

Twid and ?


**Television Route 40m E4 5c (R) (1966/1978)
Once a sacrilege, but now a fine free route. Start at the spike belay mentioned for previous route and climb leftwards to gain the main groove line which contains much rusting scrap metal. Go up and over the bulge on loose rock, and trend left to many pegs where the rock improves. Traverse right into a groove under an overhang. Follow this groove, via two overlaps, to a small ledge on the right. The left-hand groove above the traverse, with tempting pegs etc., has been climbed at the same grade. Climb the short wall, and finish up a groove, past the last of the scrap iron.
FFA Jim Moran, B Winteringham, P Williams, Al Evans 13/8/78

Variations:

*Safer Start? 45m E3 5c (R) (1978)
This avoids the loose and scary start to Television Route (or maybe not, see comments). Start as for The Electrification of the Soviet Union. Go up to the peg, pass it on the left, until it is possible to move right to a sandy area below an overlap. Traverse right below the overlap to join, and finish, as for Television Route.


**Khmer Rouge 43m E5 6a (R) (1978)
Start from the belay of Television Route or Redshift. Climb up past a peg runner into a bottomless groove. A peg at its top does not, unfortunately, seem to protect the moves up right to a ledge on the arête. Go back left into grooves and ascend a little wall to join Television Route at two pegs. Finish as for Television Route.

Jim Moran and ?

* Blood Baath 43m E4/5 6a (R) (2005)
Start from the block belay as for Redshift pitch 2. Start as for Redshift but continue to the overhang, peg. Reach up and out left to a short handcrack, cam 3.5. Follow the crack and climb more or less directly to the capping headwall, climb this moving rightwards to finish at the arete. Fragile rock on headwall
C Parkin, D J Holmes 28/1/05.

**Redshift 86m E3 (R) (1976)
A demanding route, especially on pitch 2, which has a sustained urgency about it. Start from the end of the second abseil, on the lowest ledge, in the corner on the right.
1 37m. 5b. Climb up slabby rock to leftward-trending cracks. Follow these, then bear right and go up to ledges and a huge block belay.
2 37m. 5c. Climb up above the belay, passing a thread runner and then move up and rightwards to a block level with the base of the grove. From here perplexing moves lead up and leftwards into the groove above the belay. (Blood Baath climbs direct to the start of this groove). This leads to a ledge on the left. Go back up right onto the larger ledge, and belay, as for Wendigo or better still continue up the third pitch.
3 12m. 4c. Move left into the continuation groove, which leads to the top.
Pat Littlejohn, H Clarke 8/5/76

Variation:

Dangerous Liaison (R)
The obvious line three metres right of Redshift pitch 2. Start from the block belay at the top of pitch 1 of Redshift.
2a 20m. 6a. Climb up and right passing a peg where a difficult sequence right allows better holds to be reached. Continue in a fine position overlooking the fault line of Wendigo to join it midway up pitch 2 (possible hanging belay on right). Finish up Wendigo or Redshift.


Bottom of the Pile 30m E2 5c (R) (1998)
Start at a ledge, just above sea level, left of the cove mouth. Climb the rightward slanting corner groove to a flake crack continuing rightwards. Gain the top of the flake and stand up by an inelegant and tenuous move. Climb up above and move rightwards around the blunt arête to a blocky slab. Continue diagonally right then up a dirty corner to belay on spikes at the foot of Wendigo.


*Red Wall Escape Route 116m Very Severe (R) (1966)
A poor route, but a very useful plan B. Start from block belays on the right side of the wall.
1 20m. 4c. As for Wendigo, pitch 1.
2 30m. 4b. Start as for Wendigo, then climb the diagonal break leftwards, heading for the sloping ledge at the start of Television Route. Block belays exist, a couple of metres farther along.
3 6m. Walk left to a belay on the ramp.
4 45m. 4b. Climb the slabby, and grassy, ramp to the foot of a slab.
5 15m. 4a. The slab leads easily to the top.


***Wendigo 80m E2 (R) (1966)
One of the best and most obvious lines on Red Wall, following the central continuous break, above the start to Red Wall Escape Route. The top half of the route is easily identified by some slim, right facing corners, containing sloping ledges. Start at the block belay, as for Red Wall Escape Route, gained from an abseil off the promontory. This point can be traversed to from the right.
1 20m. 4c. Enter the sand above and follow the easiest line of huge crisp holds to a sloping ledge.
2 50m. 5b. Climb the obvious leftward-trending break above, to a shallow depression where a corner starts to form, possible belay. Continue on up, passing two sloping ledges to a third sloping ledge on the left at the base of the top corner. 3 10m. 4b. Step back right into the 'feature' and carefully stumble to the top.
FA Joe Brown, Tony Moulam 6/9/66


**Blue Remembered Hills 73m E3 (R) (1980)
A good route, taking the wall between the obvious weaknesses. Start from the ledge five metres up pitch 1 of Red Wall.
1 45m. 5c. Go up for a little way before gaining a groove on the left. From the top of this groove, move left and climb the wall to a large flake, peg. Continue until forced to join Wendigo, then follow this to the sloping ledge. Poor belay (cam 3 useful).
2 28m. 5c. Climb rightwards passing a downward pointing flake, and swing into a hanging groove which is taken to join Red Haze at a sloping ledge, peg on the right. Using hanging flakes, gain the groove above (or climb the wall as for Red Haze). From the top of the groove (loose rock abundant) continue dangerously more or less directly to the top of the crag.
Gordon Tinnings, Paul Trower (first pitch with Dave Parker), 1/8/80

**Red Haze 70m E4 (R) (1969)
The next weakness right has a well defined quartz filled break on the first pitch, followed by more committing terrain above. Start a little further right along the blocky ledge.
1 25m. 5a. From the left-hand end of the stance, move left into a shallow right-facing corner. Move right across the steep wall, and gain, then follow, a diagonal quartz break over two small bulges, to a recess. Here, a bolt belay can be backed up by a loose spike.
2 45m. 5c. From the loose spike move left, then ascend the steep wall, peg, until insecure moves lead left to a groove. Go up this to a sloping ledge, peg, then ascend the wall above direct to gain a groove, peg. After a few metres move rightwards to gain and finish up a shallow chimney.


***Rapture of the Deep 70m E3 (R) (1978)
A very fine main pitch, taking a direct line in the centre of the cliff, though only for the soft rock addict. Start as for the previous route.
1 25m. 5a. As for Red Haze, pitch 1.
2 45m. 5b. Follow the obvious sandy chimney, slightly to the right of the belay, passing two pegs.
Joe Brown, Ben and Marion Winteringham. 13/9/78

***Red Wall 77m E2 (R) (1966)
A guaranteed crowd pleaser! Another route that looks terrifying, but which is far more attractive on closer inspection (if you like this sort of thing). Probably E1 if you're in the right mood. Start from the ledge, below the main weakness.
1 34m. 4c. Move left and climb up onto a ledge. Climb up a couple of moves then traverse right to an obvious quarts flake. Bare left then right up a steep corner to pull onto the stance. A 'devil may care attitude' is suggested.

2 23m. 5b. A soft touch, but it just keeps on coming, and you can never be sure if those holds will stay where they're supposed to! At least you know that the belay is solid. Follow the diagonal line leftwards, climb up to a peg, then cross the steep wall leftwards with some temerity to a shallow chimney. Peg belays.
3 20m. 4c. Pure Red Wall class! Jug pulling above a fearsome amphitheatre with an 'admiring' crowd stoking your ego from the sidelines. Can it get any better than this? Climb the steep chimney on monster holds, past a peg, and follow the groove above moving right to finish.
Joe Brown, Pete Crew 2/9/66

***Fantasia 79m E3 (R) (1979)
Excellent wall climbing, on solid rock once out of Red Wall. The route has reasonably good protection, and is sustained at an interesting level. Start as for Red Wall.
1 34m. 4c. As for Red Wall, pitch 1.
2 45m. 5c. Follow Red Wall to a move right. Continue rightwards to a sandy cave, and from its right-hand side, peg, move around onto a red wall. Go straight up, then slightly left, passing a peg, before gaining a small hanging groove. From the top of this, bold and technical moves left lead to larger holds.


**A Brown Study 88m E3 (R) (1970)
A meandering route with serious climbing, especially on the first pitch. Start to the right of Red Wall, below the next sandy groove.
1 18m. 5c. Climb the steep groove to a ledge. Continue up the groove to emerge, covered in sand, on a good ledge. Poor belay.
2 40m. 5c. Climb rightwards and go up a corner, peg, before moving leftwards through shattered rock to a sandy ledge on the left (this is the sandy cave of Fantasia), peg. A horizontal traverse rightwards through a solid area of rock leads to an inverted V-overhang. Construct a belay at a good ledge just left of the curving fault-line of Communication Breakdown.
3 30m. 5b. Climb up for a couple of metres, then traverse six metres right to a groove. Ascend this and the corner above to a slab, which leads to the top.

The Tiger's Den E5

1 18m. 5c. As for A Brown Study, pitch 1.

2 ??m. 5c. Traverse the ledge rightwards and go right to a corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge and traverse 8 metres right to its end and belay.

3 ??m. 6a. Drop down a metre and traverse right (loose) to a hanging red wall. Climb this, under a line of overhangs until a hard move brings you out on a slab. Top out, boulder belay.

M.Turner, K.Goodey. (19/9/91).

Fire and Grimstone 20m E5 5c

This route deals with the groove line 3 metres right of the start to A Brown Study. Climb up the groove, passing much sand, loosness, and brittle fins to join A Brown Study at the top of its first pitch. Belay on good rock in the corner above. Finish wherever you wish.

A.Wainright, J.Harrison. (on-sight) 5/9/96

***The Maze 147m E5 (R) (1970)
Start five metres below the top of the ramp of the escape route.
1, 2 & 3 as for the existing guide.
4. 30m 5c. Difficult route finding and sustained. Aim for a grassy ledge down and right of the belay on left hand red wall below an inpending corner and a series of ledges. Extremely poor belay.
5. 45m 5c. Climb up and right following the higher of the ledges. Very poor rock and gear lead to an overhanging wall and corner. Climb the corner until a steep pull right and the slab. Continue direct to the top.

Ed Drummond?
See the full girdle link-up description above for better description and an alternative description of last two pitches (I think they got lost!, the original pitch 4 description is just about spot on- graham hoey)