The following two routes are located at a 'new' crag near the Lookout crags, about 300m SE of the coastguard lookout. It is a small V-shaped zawn; the back wall contains a series of overlaps on clean rock

Saltheart E5 6a/b 20m.

From 5m up the left wall (looking in) of the zawn, climb out and up to an overhanging hand crack. Climb steeply out to the 2nd of two jugs (gear) and make a hard move up and out to gain jams in the base of the crack. Struggle up this to a no-hands rest on a ledge. From the left end of the ledge, climb up the wall to a roof the hand traverse the horizontal break rightwards to easy ground. Pumpy, but good pro.

Owen Hayward, Dave Barker (on-sight). (23/5/90).

Behind Closed Doors HVS 5a 25m.

Start just right of Saltheart. Follow the line of holds outwards to the lip, easier than it looks. Traverse rightwards under the roof until below the prominent corner. Pull over to climb the corner and move left at its conclusion. Well worth doing.

Frazer Bull, Owen Haywood, Dave Barker. (23/5/90).

On the right hand side of Sunset Slab is a hanging buttress with an obvious gangway up the left-hand side, with a crack on its right side.

Deganwy HVS 4c 20m.

From sea level, follow the gangway, past a steepening, to the top. Exciting rock, quartz in mudstone.A.Newton, M.Crook. (30/7/95).(Pleasant route at Severe up right side of buttress, pulling over a bulge at half height.

Nick Walton, solo, 1995).

A Very Steep Young Man E5 6b 10m.

The crack system in the overhanging wall right of Deganwy. Start from sloping ledges on the arête. Belay from a rock pool at low tide. From big spikes, go left to gain a wide crack with a difficult swing up and left into continuation cracks and finish bulkily. Magnificent climbing, with the main difficulties confined to the first 10 metres! Take numerous cams.

G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1996).

The first deep cleft, north of the coastguard lookout. Labelled in the guide as "repulsively loose" prominent coves.

Your H..?.. the Portillo E3

1 50m. 4c. From the seaward end of the zawn, traverse the north wall rightwards between the high tide mark and 5 metres over breaks and under a waterfall as the line dictates. Belay on a large ledge below the big corner.2 25m. 5b. Go up and rightwards to the wall and follow folded rock straight up. Move leftwards when the rock runs out onto vegetated rock and a grass cornice. Finish in the cutting area and belay in rabbit burrows. (Belay stake now in place - Reduce E grade by leaving a rope down grass from this).

Howard Jones, Gill Lovick. (2/5/97).

From Anoyance to Lingotence E2/3

Traverse from the east end of the zawn on the north wall.1 22m. 5c. Start just left of a shallow corner. Slippery at first - follow a rising traverse leftwards without much protection, but all easy enough, to a rounded ledge. Awkward moves beyond this gain more broken rock and easier climbing to a notch on the arête and a belay.2 25m. 5b/c. Move round the arête onto a worrying ledge and follow this into the corner. Step onto the left wall traverse easily - good protection stuffed rigorously intoDrink Your H..?.. the Portillo. Step down and continue the traverse over a small stream (or larger waterfall, depending on conditions) to reach vegetated ledges alongside the top of wide folded cracks, large cam. Finish joyfully up steep grass by two embedded boulders - stake belay.

Howard Jones, Gill Lovick. (3/6/97).

The next routes lie some 100 metres left (looking out to sea) of the coastguard lookout; left (looking in) of Sunset Slab. The area can't be seen from above and consists of a wedge of very good quality Yellow Wall rock.

Bulkmaster E2 5c 25m.

Start half way up the slabs on the right side of the V. Gain the slab and move left to below the hanging corner above. Climb this with some effort and finish slightly up and left.

M.Crook, A.Newton. (30/7/95).

25 Years of Cellulite E2 5b 30m.

Start as for Bulkmaster and follow the slab leftwards until moves up a short groove lead to a pedestal. Carry on leftwards and downwards with difficulty, passing a peg, to reach the slab. Scramble up to the top and round to above the last section to protect the second.

M.Crook, A.Newton. (1/8/95).

They're Red Hot E4 5c 20m.

From the niche on the left, traverse right past the peg to an obvious undercut. Gibber straight up the wall to an uncomfortable rest in the corner below the roof. Swing out right on big flatties, bridging thin air, and slap out along the obvious traverse line to arrive in the easy finishing groove. Take big cams.

Joe Le Sage, Andy Braund (on-sight). (1995).

Found to be E4 and poky on the second ascent by Nick and Twid.

Daz Undercling E4 6b

The obvious overhanging crack from the bottom of the cave. Finish up the obvious line above.

G.Smith. (1996).

Das Undercling is easy forE2, E4you must be joking! (According to Twid).

Rechtsclinger E2 5c

Start in the cave, as for Daz Undercling, but move out right along an obvious line, becoming a humus sandwich filling finish.

M.Crook, R.Wood. (2/96).

Curly Locks and the Three Hairs VS 4b.

Thin crack and corner on the left wall of the small zawn opposite The Sun.

Nigel Manning, Richard Wright. 11/8/90.