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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
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| Sep 28 2007, 8:36 PM EDT (current) | Chedi.Knight | 207 words added, 3 words deleted |
| Sep 2 2007, 5:24 PM EDT | pastparticiple | 15 words added, 8 words deleted |
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Llawder
A comical name dreamt up by one of the early climbers there; not as you might think a word derived from the Welsh language, but simply 'red wall' spelt backwards.
This fine area has many excellent routes that span nearly the complete grade range. A more friendly feel than many sections of Gogarth, combined with a southerly aspect and easy access make this a popular area for climbers.
Adrenalin E3 5c 15m
Friable and serious. One to do if you've ticked the others. Dave Durkin's solo may impress!
Start near the shorter right hand side of the wall.
Navigate up a shallow corner to a small overhang. Gain the main groove and better gear to finish via the crack on the left.
D. Durkin. Solo (18/11/1970)
Friable and serious. One to do if you've ticked the others. Dave Durkin's solo may impress!
Start near the shorter right hand side of the wall.
Navigate up a shallow corner to a small overhang. Gain the main groove and better gear to finish via the crack on the left.
D. Durkin. Solo (18/11/1970)
The Cocktail Trip E4 5c 37m
A bolder version of the Savage Sunbird can be semi-tamed with micro-friends.
A bolder version of the Savage Sunbird can be semi-tamed with micro-friends.
The Savage Sunbird E2 5b ** 37m
Spooky, but 'all there' climbing. If you enjoy a good stitch up, go elsewhere. You probably won't fall off because you'll fall in love with the hidden and devious nature of the climbing: magic!
Spooky, but 'all there' climbing. If you enjoy a good stitch up, go elsewhere. You probably won't fall off because you'll fall in love with the hidden and devious nature of the climbing: magic!
P.Williams, G.Peters. (20/5/1984).
Medicine Man E4 6a 35m
Takahe (Daedalus) HVS 5a 35m *
A worthwhile alternative first pitch to Icarus.
The obvious corner and narrow ramp just right of the Icarus start.
(So obvious, I'd be surprised if it hasn't been done before)
T.Roberts R.Hughes 26/07/05
Done before by Ian lloyd-Jones and Clive Stephenson 15 years earlier!!! Check out Petes Eats New Routes Book..I will try and find Name and info. and edit this.
Thanks for this - As I explained above I suspected it might have been done before. TR.
Clive named the route Takahe after a flightless NZ bird..Can't remember any more other than it was written up in the Petes Eats new routes book and we climbed to the right of Icarus to the top rather than joining Icarus at 1/2 height. ILLJ
Takahe (Daedalus) HVS 5a 35m *
A worthwhile alternative first pitch to Icarus.
The obvious corner and narrow ramp just right of the Icarus start.
(So obvious, I'd be surprised if it hasn't been done before)
T.Roberts R.Hughes 26/07/05
Done before by Ian lloyd-Jones and Clive Stephenson 15 years earlier!!! Check out Petes Eats New Routes Book..I will try and find Name and info. and edit this.
Thanks for this - As I explained above I suspected it might have been done before. TR.
Clive named the route Takahe after a flightless NZ bird..Can't remember any more other than it was written up in the Petes Eats new routes book and we climbed to the right of Icarus to the top rather than joining Icarus at 1/2 height. ILLJ
Icarus HVS 40m **
A great adventure for an HVS climber and budding VS leader (Really?). Less intimidating than the main cliff adventures, but brilliant nonetheless. This route climbs the obvious rampline to a steep corner towards the right of the centre of the crag.
A great adventure for an HVS climber and budding VS leader (Really?). Less intimidating than the main cliff adventures, but brilliant nonetheless. This route climbs the obvious rampline to a steep corner towards the right of the centre of the crag.
P.Buxton, D.Durkan, 1969
Bigger Girls E5
Climbs the wall right of Big Boys. Start at a groove, 8 metres right of the start of The Sun.1 5b. Climb the groove to a sloping ledge. Belay just right of the curving crack.2 6b. Climb the steep wall and step left to the curving crack, which is followed to bigger holds. Traverse 3 metres right and attack the steep finger crack.
M.Turner, Graham McMahon. (1997).
Don't Cry E6 6b
Start as for Big Boys and after 8 metres, instead of going left, move right to a peg. Climb direct to join the base of the upper groove. Snappy.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1997).
Big Boys E5 6a 30m
Shine On You Crazy Diamond E5/6 6b 40m.
Takes the steep crack to the right of The Sun past three pegs at the bulge. The strong will continue to join The Sun for the final 20m. Amazingly steep climbing with excellent moves.
Ian Lloyd-Jones. (24/8/90).
The Sun E3 44m ***
Intimidating, but mighty fine! The start sees off many suitors, but once past this some fabulously steep jamming takes you to the heart of the sun. Start by accessing the ramp as for Icarus, and traverse left to where it is possible to make some difficult moves into the steep hanging corner. Carry on up this to reach a small but adequate podium (dance like you just don't care?), before heading up easier ground to the top. NB the pegs are no longer present!
Intimidating, but mighty fine! The start sees off many suitors, but once past this some fabulously steep jamming takes you to the heart of the sun. Start by accessing the ramp as for Icarus, and traverse left to where it is possible to make some difficult moves into the steep hanging corner. Carry on up this to reach a small but adequate podium (dance like you just don't care?), before heading up easier ground to the top. NB the pegs are no longer present!
P.Williams, J.Moran, 1984
For the next few routes you need to make a sea level traverse below the crag for 30metres to where it is possible to carefully scramble up broken ground to a grassy ledge below an obvious steep slab. A small block provides a belay, whilst soft grass and sea thrift provides a comfy seat.
Warpath E4 6a 38m ***
Bottom end E5?
The Mask of the Red Death E3 5c **
Best started from the deck just to the left of the Sun, enabling one big 40m pitch to give the full 'death mask' effect (take plenty of long slings). This start also provides a good direct entry to Warpath.
El Dorado HVS 33m
Description in present guide bears little resemblance to the climbing - especially on P1.
The most obvious line is to:
Step onto the sandy ledges and traverse a couple of feet to the right.
Pull over a slight bulge onto the steep slab above and follow it to the large bay left of "The Mask ..".
Climb the loose flakes and ledges in the corner until you are forced to swing left onto the
"slender ramp" (The original line joins the ramp lower down somehow)
Follow this to its end where an obvious horizontal break can be followed left to a fine position on the arete right of the Wild Rover slab.
Layback the final corner using holds on the left.
This seems to be the most logical line of least resistance and differs slightly from the original.
Done this way it works well in a single pitch.
Description in present guide bears little resemblance to the climbing - especially on P1.
The most obvious line is to:
Step onto the sandy ledges and traverse a couple of feet to the right.
Pull over a slight bulge onto the steep slab above and follow it to the large bay left of "The Mask ..".
Climb the loose flakes and ledges in the corner until you are forced to swing left onto the
"slender ramp" (The original line joins the ramp lower down somehow)
Follow this to its end where an obvious horizontal break can be followed left to a fine position on the arete right of the Wild Rover slab.
Layback the final corner using holds on the left.
This seems to be the most logical line of least resistance and differs slightly from the original.
Done this way it works well in a single pitch.
Mainlinin' E4 6a
The Wild Rover E1 5b **
Crimpmeisters will love this. A bold but obvious start leads onto classic E1 edge climbing. Best done on a lazy afternoon. Start from the block and make a delicate move leftwards to gain the ledge at the bottom of the steep slab, where a hidden peg provides the first real gear. Move up and right towards the arete/rib, and follow this as closely as possible to a move left to gain a ledge below a groove, continue up to the top.
Crimpmeisters will love this. A bold but obvious start leads onto classic E1 edge climbing. Best done on a lazy afternoon. Start from the block and make a delicate move leftwards to gain the ledge at the bottom of the steep slab, where a hidden peg provides the first real gear. Move up and right towards the arete/rib, and follow this as closely as possible to a move left to gain a ledge below a groove, continue up to the top.
FA
Little Queenie E1 5b *
Cocaine E1 5b
Fallen Block Zawn
This area is easily accessed two or more hours after high tide. By traversing easily along ledges just above sea level to a scramble over the headland to a zawn full of large 'fallen' blocks. Some of the routes require a calm sea or low spring tides to access.
View or Edit Fallen Block Zawn Topo
View or Edit Fallen Block Zawn Topo
Bagger's Crack
Human Camel
The Trip
Jack of All Trades VS 4c 30m.
Start 4 metres right of The Trip, below a narrow wall with a grey overhang at its base. Climb through the overhang to the left. Then climb trending right away from the system of cracks. Finish straight up, the angle and difficulties easing, to join The Trip at its belay.
Spike Green, Tim Child and Hull University. (1998).
Shithawk Alley
Sea Shanty
Truant
Don't tell Gareth HVS 5a 23m
From the top of the first pitch of Truant, a deep recess with suspect protection (take at least three slings) trends up diagonally rightwards across the black headwall. Follow the recess past a couple of suspect spike runners to an obvious tooth, spike runner, where the recess steepens. Carefully pull over the tooth to land on a small ledge, junction with Drunk on Arrival. Finish up the overhanging corner, crux, with good runners
Simon Wilson, Helen Bailey. (25/7/96).
The Aberconders' Finish HVS 5b 48m.
A superb alternative finish to Truant. Well protected and photogenic.
1.15m. Follow the corner of Truant to a large ledge which cuts across the slab from the left at about half height. Belay in the recess.
2. 33m. Move up the slab on the left for a couple of metres, then using two large pockets, ascend the steep wall on the right to traverse a red-coloured slab into the groove of E.P.Special. Move up this until a prominent undercut flake enables an exposed traverse to the right to the arête of the fin. Climb this to finish on the saddle.
Donald King, Bob Llewelyn. (11/10/98).
Drunk on Arrival
EP Special
The Trail of Tears
Takes the amazing fin. Climb the flake in the right hand side of the pillar to a good shake out and protection (junction with Godzilla). Undercut leftwards on small flakes (that take small cams) to the arête where there used to be a peg runner. A poor shake-out and an outrageous position still exist. Start laybacking like you're pulling a rapist off your mother. Don't stop.
J.Moran, P.Williams and J.Sonczak, 1984
Godzilla * 40m E4 5c
A genuine monster!
The Viper ** 40m E4 5c
Low in the grade but the condition of the pegs may change this.
Centrefold ***** 40m E3 5c
ExcellentContender for one of the best positions.single pitch E3's around.
No idea why this route only got ** in the old guide.
Big holds and loads of protection make it a safe proposition.
Its steep and sustained nature will however guarantee that most E2/3 climbers will be sweating like Cosmo Smallpiece reading the latest copy of Hustler by the time they top out.
Start at the centre of the back wall behind the fallen blocks directly beneath the obvious groove of The Viper.
Pull up into the groove (slippery hand jam) with difficulty (good but hidden runner up and right)
Enter the groove on the right (awkward) and move up to a good rest under a left facing corner / crack / groove system.
Follow this to the obvious overhang.
Traverse right for a few feet and lay-way up to a break beneath a bulge.
Try not to hang around here to long!
Move up and left through the bulge.
Still a long way to go - but the worst (or best?) is over.
Undercut right to a groove and follow this with interest to the top.
Alternatively (for those who haven't broken into sweat) the arête right of the final groove can be followed - Full Frontal Finish
A genuine monster!
The Viper ** 40m E4 5c
Low in the grade but the condition of the pegs may change this.
Centrefold ***** 40m E3 5c
ExcellentContender for one of the best positions.single pitch E3's around.
No idea why this route only got ** in the old guide.
Big holds and loads of protection make it a safe proposition.
Its steep and sustained nature will however guarantee that most E2/3 climbers will be sweating like Cosmo Smallpiece reading the latest copy of Hustler by the time they top out.
Start at the centre of the back wall behind the fallen blocks directly beneath the obvious groove of The Viper.
Pull up into the groove (slippery hand jam) with difficulty (good but hidden runner up and right)
Enter the groove on the right (awkward) and move up to a good rest under a left facing corner / crack / groove system.
Follow this to the obvious overhang.
Traverse right for a few feet and lay-way up to a break beneath a bulge.
Try not to hang around here to long!
Move up and left through the bulge.
Still a long way to go - but the worst (or best?) is over.
Undercut right to a groove and follow this with interest to the top.
Alternatively (for those who haven't broken into sweat) the arête right of the final groove can be followed - Full Frontal Finish
Wet Dreams
Dreams n Screams E6 6b
What a pumper! Just because its been on-sighted by a girl doesn't mean it's an easy ride. The central ever-steepening crack line is awesome. Start as for Magellan's Wall.
1. 5b. Climb steeply onto the face and move right to belay at the base of the cracks.
2. 6b. Blast quickly up the cracks, saving energy for the upper section. Soon, the holds deteriorate and the angle steepens, oh my god, keep going! If your head's not throbbing, there is a choice: shimmey out left or climb direct, neither a soft option. If you're still going, flounder wildly over the lip to victory.
Magellan’s Wall E5
Beware the sting in the tail. Yes, you can hang around for ages, but that won't get you to the top! A bold voyage!
The Motombo
Electric Blue 35m E4 5c (E3 if DWS) *** Link to video
The Motombo
Sea Cave Zawn
Solo slab
Sea and Bisquits HVS 5a 23m.
Start 3m up Solo Slab, step off the slab into obvious bottomless groove. Climb it, crux, then hand traverse steeply right until beneath z-cracks in roof. Climb out over this and up the short wall above.
P.Griffith, P.Bursnall. (10/7/92).
Kissing the Pink
Strenuous and fairly serious - a candidate for E3 or am I just getting old and weaker?
Strenuous and fairly serious - a candidate for E3 or am I just getting old and weaker?
Galleon
The finest DWS on Anglesey. Safe apart from the very first couple of moves and the final 10m (due to height above the water) which are steady. Start at the left hand side of the massive cave. Follow the lip rightwards above deep water to the apex. Climb directly to the top.
Round the Horn
The Band of Westies E5 6a
Essentially a top pitch to Round the Horn; traversing left below and onto an undercut block. Then traverse diagonally out left to finish where Electric Blue finishes.
John Dawes, solo. (8/03).
Solo surprise
Harvest Crunch
Flobalob
January Jaunts
Hi, Jack!
Fan Fare
Daddy on-sight
Fear Test
Big Sunday E5 6a 13m.
The overhanging crack left of Fear Test. Follow large jugs just to the right of the hairline crack (good pro). Gain a no hands knee-lock in the big break - loose undercling avoided. Cut loose and head for the off width finish. Well protected with small wires and ancient warthog. Best climbed in rough sea.
G.Smith, A.Wood (on-sight) (1988).
Symphony Crack Diff
This has to be one of the best routes of its grade - traverse in right wards from the end of the point. belay at the foot of the open corner and climb this to the top, an atmospherice route.
Serpent
Loon For the Broon E2 5b 22m.
The route starts from the hanging belay on Symphony Crack. From the belay, take a direct line up the right wall, heading for the right shoulder of the crag top. The sensible climber will take advantage of the numerous pockets for runner placements on this clean brittle wall.
Mark Hedge, Sammy Burns. (12/6/98).
From Dusk Till Dawn E3 6a 17m.
(Tidal)The striking arête on the opposite side of the promontory from symphony Crack. Climb the right hand side of the arête, fingery at first, till big holds lead onto the arête.
M.Turner, I.Wilson. (1996).
Billy the Mountain E1 5b 8-10 m steep wall
Just below the step and to the right of the point is a steep wall which leads to an over hanging wall. Billy takes the obvious crack centre of the wall.
Ian McNeill, Paul Barbier, Domonic Travers 1990/1
PaulsBarbiers Route (might be From Dusk Till Dawn done same day as Billy)
Billy the Mountain E1 5b 8-10 m steep wall
Just below the step and to the right of the point is a steep wall which leads to an over hanging wall. Billy takes the obvious crack centre of the wall.
Ian McNeill, Paul Barbier, Domonic Travers 1990/1
PaulsBarbiers Route (might be From Dusk Till Dawn done same day as Billy)
Black Zawn
(Tidal)The following routes tackle the short steep wall of the narrow zawn.
Painted Black E5 6b 27m.
Start just above the pool, at low tide, and climb the right-hand side of the black recess to gain the obvious juggy flake. Get a good rest below the white headwall, then pull onto edges and make a powerful move to gain a flat hold, just below a juggy break. Quite bold and physical.
S.Jones, Pat King, Zaf Ali, John Boy. (12/7/97).
Dark Reflections E7 6b 23m.
Take the centre of the overhanging face, starting below a shallow little groove. Two scary moves away from gear/snappy rock. Finish up the snaking crack in the headwall. Brilliant climbing and steady climbing for the grade.
S.Jones, Pat King, Zaf Ali, John Boy. (12/7/97).
Slit Yer Wrists E5 6a 20m.
Takes the groove at the back of the zawn to the break, on the overhanging side. Climb the steep wide crack on the upper part to finish.
S.Jones, P.Brook. (29/6/97).
Starfish Cove
This is the next wall/cave right (looking out to sea) from Sea Cave Zawn.
Starfish Enterprise E6 6b 22m.
Takes the wildly overhanging wall/cave. Start on a flat boulder at the bottom left hand side of the cave. Climb up breaks to a niche at 7 metres. Traverse 15 metres along the bottom break and then the top break to pull through the roof at its apex. Steep.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).
It's Life Twid, But Not as You Know it E3 5c 13m.
The small arête of Starfish Cove. Climb the crack in the seaward side and pull through the cracks onto the arête. Finish direct. A route of great character.
M.Turner, Ian Wilson.
