If you head south from Ellin's Tower for some 500m, where the path turns right, there is a grassy hillock infront that makes a headland where the path runs out.
Approach
Scramble down the grassy slope to gain the col between the mainland and the grassy hillock. Then hike over the hillock and either scramble down the ridge or make an abseil into a steep zawn facing out to sea where most of the routes are. Or via sea level from either direction. From the North a 5a wall at low tide. From the South is easy but you are coming from Natalie Zawn which needs an abseil approach or a swim from Blacksmith's Zawn.
Mirage
Stochastic Groove
Serendipity
Plimsoll Line
Echo Madness E6 6b 30m.
Climbs the overhanging crack in the seaward end of the sea arch. Non-tidal. Start at the foot of the overhanging cracks, the left hand one. Haul up to a resting ledge before climbing out along the obvious crack. Hard moves at its end lead to a painful bridge (for the short). Climb straight up and swing out left, 3 metres from the top, to a ledge and belay. An extra rope is handy to run back to a block on the other side of the arch.
M.Turner, Chris Wentworth. (1995).
Grand Plié and Twin Horn E5 5c (will clean up to E4)
Go to the arch on the north side of the peninsula. 17 metres right of Echo Madness is a striated wall, facing out to sea. Climb the left hand edge of the wall with a move slightly right at half height, over a bulge (the twin horn) to eventually gain a shallow recess. Loose and interesting.
G.Smith, N.Craine. (1997).
Cherish The Jug 60m E2 5b (R) (1999)
The short overhanging groove 6 metres right of the arête has a difficult move left past a bulge at the top. Continue up easier but rather loose ground, belaying as necessary, to the summit.
G. Smith, C. Waddy, T. Loxton (on-sight)
Staggered 60m E3 5b (R) (2000)
2 metres right of Cherish the Jug, climb an open groove to a large spike. Step right into diagonal breaks then forge a line up and left through the overhang to join Cherish the Jug on the easier ground. Continue up this.
A. Cave, S. Myles, G. Rimmer, A. Wainwright (on-sight)
The Callipygian Groove E6
A good but serious climb taking the zig zag groove line above the centre of the sea arch.
1 10m. Gain the Iguano flake easily.
2 40m. 6a. Climb steeply rightwards up fins in the groove above the ledge to a niche. Follow the groove leftwards past a peg to a resting ledge. Continue up the groove above and wall to its right, past a block to a difficult pull onto the vegetated slab above. Go up and left to ledges and a belay.
3 10m. Follow a line of least resistance to the top and belay well back.
A.Wainwright. G.Smith (on-sight) 27/09/96
Callipygian means possessor of fine buttocks
Tonton's Macoute E6 6a/b 27m.
An excellent outing, steep, strenuous and well protected following diagonal bands rightwards over the centre of the arch. Take many camming devices.
1 10m. Gain the Iguano flake belay.
2 20m. 6a. Follow breaks and ledges easily into the zawn for 3 metres to reach diagonal breaks leading rightwards out over the apex of the zawn. Follow these breaks, steep and sandy, passing an in-situ Hex 11, to commence battle with fins leading to a resting niche. Move rightwards onto ledges and easier ground.
3 15m. Escape off rightwards.
A. Wainwright, J.McHaffie. (ground-up) 23/9/03
Rock of Ages E7 6b
This wonderful route climbs the stunning roof crack splitting the zawn itself. Start on the left wall of the zawn 8m out from the back of the sea cave. Climb quartz jugs and flakes towards the top of the cave until one can bridge the walls of the zawn. Bridge and jam outwards with great difficulty onto a huge hanging fang. Bar along this into the crack beyond, follow this to easier ground eventually reaching the Iguano flake belay. By far the best route in the western world.
G.Smith. (8/97) (ground-up)
Pre-Cambrian Wrestler E7 6b 23m.
An unlikely looking scenario through the roofs right of the sea cave. Start opposite Rock of Ages on slabs to the right of the zawn. Swing onto jugs from the slab and ascend steeply to huge blocks. Hand traverse these leftwards into a shallow niche and poor rest. Wildly climb outwards along the left side of the ship's keel on a quartz vein to the lip of the roof. Surmount this into breaks in the wall above and rightwards to a disappointing rest, below a small brown roof. Pull over this to reach belay ledges at the top of Tontons Macoute. Escape off rightwards.
G.Smith (1996) (ground-up)
Nonentity
Moonshine
Triffid Groove