This section of the crag are situated north of the main crag, with Painted Wall being the most obvious to find, and being located in the boulder strewn beach in the first large bay some 400m past the Electric Blue zawn. The crag is the obvious overhanging wall at the north end of the beach, and is non-tidal.

100m further north on a small headland is Crag X. This is an awesome beginners venue. More like Stanage-on-sea, with lots of easy top rope routes.

Beyond this some further 400m north along the cliff the obvious 'White Arch' lies.

Painted Wall

Surreal Appeal E7 6b 30m.

Start left of centre on the wall. Climb up onto the grass eyebrow and right to the rightward trending weakness. Pass 7 pegs (some better than others) to reach the easier but still interesting top out. Cams useful to belay.

M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).There are two ways to go at top- don't know which?

Easel-EE E7 6c (F8a) 30m.

Start in the centre of the wall, at its lowest point. Follow the rising line of pegs up and left to join Surreal Appeal at it's crux. Follow this to the top. Hardly a sport route! Doesn't get wet.

M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).

Crag X

A brilliant beginners crag that should be a must for any novice climber wanting an 'easy' introducion to sea cliff climbing. There are no route descriptions at present as this cliff has been seen by many as insignificant, but don't be put off or get too excited all the major lines and less major ones have been climbed. This crag can have a wild feel on the wrong days (see photo).

The White Arches

The obvious white sea arch, 400m or so north of Crag X.

The Vipper E1 5b 13m.

On the section of rock just before (coming from the main area) the bay containing The Cruel Sea, defined on the other side by a square cut bay with a sea level platform at the other end. The route goes just left of the impressive arête that overhangs in it's last 2 metres. Start about 4 metres left of the arête beneath twin cracks. Ascend these to a ledge and step right to beneath the impending corner-crack, 1 metre from the arête. Ascend this, with a hard move to gain the corner, and finish abruptly on top.Si Wilson, Clive Powell. (2003). May have been done before.

The Mutiny VS 4b/c

Front of buttress around left of The Cruel Sea. Climb twin cracks on bottomless slab and up the weird rock above. Serious at the grade.

Andy Newton, Kath Griffiths. (20/8/91).

Missing Presumed Dead E5 6b 25m ***

Start from sea washed ledges, reachable from mid to low tide. Climb the superbly protected line underneath the arch, trending rightwards along a rock scar past some pitons, to a rather loose but safe finish. Well protected throughout.

G.Smith, T.D.Bonner. 5/1990. Repeated by Twid and Noel.

Smiley Rock

Between the church parking and the Holyhead road on the Rhoscolyn road, by a school, is a small outcrop with a large rock balanced on top. The next two routes lie on the right side of the obvious wall.

? VS 4c 13m.

Takes the arête, moving into a crack.

J.Kiernan, J.Simpson. (16/6.90)

The Smiling Coastguard HVS 5a. 13m.

Move leftwards after peg.

J.Kiernan, J.Simpson. (16/6.90)

Over by the ..?.. walls, .?. way .?. of the main bit, there is an overhanging arête which is clearly impossible (or at least very hard). This route takes the steep groove just right of it (left of .?. .?. .?. which it is possible to climb). Start at lowish tide (rarely dry, if ever). Climb the groove to a roof area. About 7 metres from the top, step left and finish up the continuation groove. Gets a little loose at the top, but well protected

.C.Waddy. (1999?)

The Cruel Sea**HVS 5b. 15m
About 200metres up the headland from the white arch is another arch/cave. Reached by scrambling around at low tide or abseil at high tide. Climb the obvious corner/groove up to a small roof, traverse right slightly to make hard moves up to regain the corner.