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North Stack Wall
An ideal single pitch venue for beginners! Not! despite its easy access, single pitch nature this wall has far too many 'chop' routes for its own good. Whilst there are a couple of amicable lines that won't kill you, there are some real frighteners with marginal gear and sustained friable climbing. The Cad, The Bells! The Bells! and a lot more besides.
Interestingly John Redhead's ascent of The Bells!... in 1981 was the first E7 in the country! The cave also hosts breeding seals for about a month after the autumn
equinox in late September. Well worth a visit to view from the clifftop butplease do not go into the zawn at this time, you would disturb them, theymay bite you.
equinox in late September. Well worth a visit to view from the clifftop butplease do not go into the zawn at this time, you would disturb them, theymay bite you.
Touching Cloth E1 35m
On the big wall opposite North Stack wall. Start in a huge-ish chimney that faces south (I think). From 7m up this, go right to a crack, which leads to a recess. Continue from the left hand side of this up a crack to the top.
C.Waddy. (5/90).
The cave under North Stack is called Parliament House Cave on account of the great concourse of nesting seabirds "making a disagreeable gabbling noise, as if in some mighty debate concerning their civil policy, the better regulation of their fishery, or of some other affair of moment. It has been observed by some wit or other, that the cormorants represent the bishops, the peregrine falcons the lords, the razorbills the commons, and the gulls the people". Peter Crew, 1969
Parliament House Cave
L’Affreuse
The Big Overhang
Pigs in Space A4
A direct start to Black Rod from The Big Overhang pedistal. Traverse from the top of The Big Overhang start pillar, to the knackered tat below the belay of Black Rod. Bloody desperate and total death should one placement fail.Estimated time: 3hrs.Ropes, hooks and Bottoming K.B's behind loose blocks.
James Howel, Dave Anderson. (1992?).
North Stack Wall
Birth Trauma E6/7 6b
This worryingly fragile line is much tougher than it appears and the peg is now in a bad state. Climb up and right to the loose flakes and arrange some good gear before a long reach (or dyno!) to the break and possible cam placements. Make a desperate series of moves (yes, this is the crux) to get established over the overlap and clip the rotten peg. Another sustained sequence of moves lead up the thin crack in a very bold position to improving holds and some welcome gear. Continue upwards more easily breaking out leftwards to a thin crackline up a steep wall via another peg to an easy top out.
Andy Pollitt, John Redhead
The Whip E1 5a 44m
The long groove to the left of Birth Trauma is a dangerous route, friable and bold. Start at the sloping platform at the foot of the groove.
1. 5a. Climb the groove on friable holds and increasingly poor protection, avoiding a loose block near the top on the right.
D.K.Scott, B.Palmer (May 1968)
1. 5a. Climb the groove on friable holds and increasingly poor protection, avoiding a loose block near the top on the right.
D.K.Scott, B.Palmer (May 1968)
Headbutt
Tom’s Shredded Slippers
Green Gilbert E1 5a *
Not the horror show you might expect! Only slightly friable rock, quite a lot of average runners and fairly decent climbing! Follow the obvious flake crack just right of Blue Peter to the top of the crag.
Art Groupie E6 6a **
Follow Blue Peter to where it moves left. From this point a hidden hold provides the key to gaining the wall above, climb this trending rightwards slightly to a hands off ledge and small wires (from here it is possible to escape up Green Gilbert) . Move back up leftwards following the obvious line up the wall to a junction with Blue Peter, finish up this.
The Clown E7 6b 40m ***
Blue Peter E4 5c
Sarah Greene E4 5c
A direct up the groove to the left of Blue Peter is bold to start. A no. 6 Wallnut may prove useful. After 8 metres break out to join Blue Peter at the end of its traverse left.
A Wreath of Deadly Nightshade 30m E6/7 6b ***
Fantastic climbing with adequate protection on the steep right arete of the wall. Follow The Sarah Green Start to Blue Peter to the junction with the latter and arrange protection. Follow an obvious series of overlaps out leftwards passing some small wires until it is possible to pull around onto the edge of the wall. A small wire runner and a foothold provide some respite before tricky moves lead straight up past a break to easier ground on the traverse of The Bells, The Bells. The wall above is climbed with more tricky moves past a crucial small wire placement and continues with sustained climbing to the top.
A.Pollitt and A Hughes 20/5/88. Originally given E8. Opinion seems to be split over whether it merits E6 or E7.Second ascent by P.Pritchard.Has had numerous on-sight ascents.
Flower of Evil E6 6b
The Angleman E7
1. 6b.Start as for Wreath Climb this until at the small wire runner at the top of the steep groove. Traverse directly left to arrive at the peg on The Bells at head height. climb the crux of this until level with the old bolt scar on The Cad gain this and belay (a rope from the top was originally in place clipped to the bolt for a belay- what you do now there is no bolt is anyones guess)
2. 6a. A rising traverse left from the old bolt scar on The Cad until you arrive at a hard move into The Long Run to finish.
1. 6b.Start as for Wreath Climb this until at the small wire runner at the top of the steep groove. Traverse directly left to arrive at the peg on The Bells at head height. climb the crux of this until level with the old bolt scar on The Cad gain this and belay (a rope from the top was originally in place clipped to the bolt for a belay- what you do now there is no bolt is anyones guess)
2. 6a. A rising traverse left from the old bolt scar on The Cad until you arrive at a hard move into The Long Run to finish.
D.Towse,J.Redhead
A counter diagonal to The Bells, The Bells. Has it’s fair share of hard climbing which is often difficult to read. Where it’s not so hard it’s either bold or serious. Another magnificent epic outing on this criss-crossed wall. Start left of the obvious open groove of Sarah Greene below the biggest overlaps. Climb up a left facing flake to the first overlap and protection which requires extending to prevent rope drag later. Tricky moves over this lead to the second overlap (small wire out right). Surmount this to achieve a good rest near the right arête of the wall (junction with The Bells, The Bells). Forage along leftwards in a rising diagonal traverse aiming for the prominent flake of The Cad. There is serious groundfall potential on this section. Lace the flake with protection (small thread in the top leftmost section). Follow the dwindling left hand continuation of the flake until it peters out in a pink area of wall (RP runner). Difficult moves (crux) through the small overlaps above lead to easier ground which takes you to a junction with The Long Run at the horizontal break. Finish up this.J.Redhead .D.Towse, J.Sylvester, 25/4/84.
The Hollow Man 30m E7/8 6b ***
Brilliant but heart-stopping climbing up the magnificent wall between the lines ofThe Cad andA Wreath of Deadly Nightshade. Essentially a direct version of The Bells, The Bells. Start as for The Clownbeneath overlaps left of the groove of Sarah Greene. Follow The Clownthrough the overlaps to a good resting position near the right arete of the wall (junction with The Bells, The Bells). Continue up The Bells, The Bells past the peg runner (crux) and continue to easier ground where the The Bells, The Bells goes right. Move up and left to a good pocket and crucial small cam placement. Continue directly to the top.
A.Pollitt and J.Dawes, 2/10/86.Second ascent by Mike Owen. According to the third ascentionist, Twid, perhaps deserves E8. Andy Pollit did give it E8 originally.
Ground up ascent by Neil Dickson.
The Bells, The Bells 40m E7 6b **
The first E7 in the UK climbs the wall right of The Cad after starting up that route. Very serious. Follow The Cad up the initial shallow groove to surmount the small overlap and gain a reasonable spike runner in the wall above. Traverse horizontally right on the lip of the overlap to a good resting position near the right arete of the wall (junction with The Hollow Man). In the wall above is an old protruding peg runner , this is what you are aiming for. Climb the wall with difficulty (crux). The old peg is much easier to clip if there is a sling on it but the new peg just above cannot be clipped until after the crux in any case. Continue up the slightly easier wall above untill and a rightwards traverse can be made to a no-hands rest on a ledge on the arete. The crack/groove in the arete leads to a sloping ledge and then the top with much relief.
J.Redhead and C.Shorter, 1980 or 81?, The first E7 in the UK.Second ascent by Andy Pollitt.
The Cad 35m E6 6a ***
About F6c….can’t be that hard, can it? This super-classic is worthy of it's reputation. Start at the centre of the wall, 15m left of Blue Peter. Climb the shallow groove and surmount the small overlap to a reasonable flake runner. If you’re feeling immortal, The Bells… heads off rightwards here. Climb carefully up the wall trending slightly rightwards towards a prominent undercling-flake. Gear and sometimes a situ thread. The flake flexes very slightly but has held the fall. Move up right past the remains of a bolt (which can still be looped with a small wire) to a foot ledge. Go straight up the wall above (crux) to a deceptive break, easier ground and a pat on your back from your second. Life feels good again.
Ron Fawcett, Chris Gibb 1978 (2 bolt runners). First bolt-free ascent by Nick Dixon ?1984. I think '86. Nick did not remove the bolt until he had done the route without clipping it. I still have the original hanger.
VariationThe Cad Direct Start
The Long Run 35m E5 6a***
Fine climbing. Has more gear than The Cad although nothing in the crucial middle section is completely convincing. Start as for The Cad, moving left before the flake runner to gain the right hand end of an overlap (small cams) or reach the same point directly at a similar standard. Climb the wall above trending slightly leftwards initially then straight up on sometimes friable rock until the angle eases and a horizontal break with excellent gear is gained. Traverse right 3m then go up and diagonally back left.
Pete Whillance,R Parker and D Armstrong 30/9/79
VariationThe Long Run Direct 30m E6 6b ***
A direct start and finish to this amazing route. Start directly below the vague line of the parent route. Climb directly up and over the lap to join the parent route. Continue up this to the horizontal break where The Long Run goes right. Get some good runners in then blast straight up the seam above which continues to tax until your hand is on the top of the cliff. Pull over with relief. D.Towse, J.Redhead, 11/88
South Sea Bubble 30m E3 **
An unbalanced but nevertheless worthwhile pitch, which follows the prominent crackline after a worrying start. Climb the short wall to a small right facing corner, line sling. Gear can be arranged further right, but it might not protect the crux rockover the roof to get established on the wall above and reach the sanctuary of the crack. Delightful and well protected climbing up the flake crack leads to a narrow ledge. Contemplate a tricky boulder problem up the wall above, or scurry off left!
Jim Moran, Simon Horrox, Al Evans, Geoff Milburn, 30/7/78
The Demon’s of Bosch
Nice n' Sleazy 30m E1 * 5a
Pleasant climbing up the crackline 7m left of South Sea Bubble. A good introduction to the wall. Start beneath the crack and climb easily to where the crack steepens. Warily follow the crackline until it finally closes, move left to a big flake and easy ground.
Al Evans, Geoff Milburn, Jim Moran. 30/7/78
Talking Heads 30m E2 ** 5b
Al Evans, Geoff Milburn, Jim Moran. 30/7/78
Talking Heads 30m E2 ** 5b
Start 2m left of Nice'n Sleazy (low tide, or abseil from the old rings to a hanging belay).Traverse left just above the sea until direct beneath an obvious overhang. Climb the wall and a crack easily to a bulge. Move up right to the overhang. Awkwardly gain good holds above and continue to stand on them. Move left to the final crack and follow this more easily.Jim Moran, G Milburn, Al Evans, S Horrox. 30/7/78
Pulling for two E6 6b
This route is less strenuous if you are good with your foetus.Climb Talking Heads to the roof a long reach left gains a strenous pull up over a roof via an obvious crack. Peg up left. Traverse left on the quarty vein and follow the quartz vein and holds to join the finish of Live at the Witch Trials. Twid and Louise Thomas, 2005 (Louise was 6 months pregnant!)
Not Fade Away
Penelope Undercling
Le Bon Sauveur
The Wrath of Deadly Lampshades E5 6a/b 27m
The obvious cracks left of Le Bon Sauveur, are hard for 17m then more easily lead up the left hand side of the large overhang.
Alister Hopkins, George Smith. (5/91).
Sincerely El Cohen
End Game
Drug Buddy VS 4c 25m
Climbs the chimney/groove to the right (looking out to sea) of End Game. Bridge up the chimney until it is possible to pull onto the slabby wall on the left, then climb the wall and groove to the top.P.Greening. (5/12/95).(May have been climbed by Nigel and Barbara Jones a few years before - AW).
Rickety Fence Route HXS 5c/6a 27m
Exact location unclear, maybe near the rickety fence?
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
The Jigs Up E5 6a 23m
Start as for Rickety Fence Route at a hanging belay on the arête. Move up the groove in the arête to holds below the first bulge. These lead leftwards onto the overhanging face. Climb a fragile flake to a rest at its top, then sprint straight up to the top.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
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| Started By | Thread Subject | Replies | Last Post | ||
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| AlexMason | Brushing on North Stack Wall | 0 | Aug 12 2012, 11:17 AM EDT by AlexMason | ||
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Thread started: Aug 12 2012, 11:17 AM EDT
Watch
Might be a bit of a stupid question, but, what's the ethical protocol with getting your mate to brush the beards off the top of the routes? Is this copping out of part of the challenge?
I was planning on trying The Clown so decided to hedge my bets and do the Long Run first to aquaint myself with the finish. This was really hairy and I figured it sees more action the the clown itself, so I bottled The Clown, reachy and hairy would be too much for my head to handle. Would it be cheating to get the holds cleaned first here? Cheers Alex |
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| nickbullock | Stroke E6, Wreath E6, Angleman E6??? | 17 | Sep 11 2008, 9:01 AM EDT by NeilDickson | ||
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Thread started: Mar 11 2007, 2:44 PM EDT
Watch
Really?...
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| GroundUp | Parliament House Cave aid routes | 0 | Oct 18 2007, 7:54 AM EDT by GroundUp | ||
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Thread started: Oct 18 2007, 7:54 AM EDT
Watch
If anybody has done any of the aid routes in recent years (or knows someone who has) I would be keen to talk to them. I'm working on this section of the new guide at the moment.
Cheers, Simon Panton |
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