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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
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| Feb 25 2007, 7:13 AM EST (current) | drevil | 291 words deleted |
| Feb 21 2007, 9:06 AM EST | KitesRus | 78 words added |
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North Coast
A bit of a hidden backwater in terms of the meat and two veg of gogarth.
Some good cliffs exist between Wylfa and the Old Brick works seaward of the windmills.
Parking in Llanbadrig, and access the cliff edge via the coastal path when adjacent to the chapel head down a ramp some of the routes are accessed below on a tidal shelf. ( These routes were first approached by open Canoe)
Carmel Head (opposite Skerries lighthouse)
Some good cliffs exist between Wylfa and the Old Brick works seaward of the windmills.
Parking in Llanbadrig, and access the cliff edge via the coastal path when adjacent to the chapel head down a ramp some of the routes are accessed below on a tidal shelf. ( These routes were first approached by open Canoe)
Llanbadrig.
Approach via the ramp
Name? Corner system HVS
start off platform climb the corner
Andy Hall & Ian McNeill 1996
Wall and Groove to the right E1
North by North West - E3 6a - 30m
Climbs the (Obvious dark shadowed 1/3 up ramp) Groove to the overlap and crosses the over lap leftwards up over grass to a belay on the rock well back (V visible in photo top left)
Ian McNeill & Andy Hall 1996
Approach via the ramp
Name? Corner system HVS
start off platform climb the corner
Andy Hall & Ian McNeill 1996
Wall and Groove to the right E1
North by North West - E3 6a - 30m
Climbs the (Obvious dark shadowed 1/3 up ramp) Groove to the overlap and crosses the over lap leftwards up over grass to a belay on the rock well back (V visible in photo top left)
Ian McNeill & Andy Hall 1996
Ynys Y Fydlyn
Jam Yesterday, Jam Tomorrow, But Never Jam Today E4 6a 20m.This route is best approached by a tunnel through the headland which begins in the cave to the left of the George Smith classic: Lost Pillar of Scheiser. More boringly, walk north over the headland, from the beach, to a tall concrete post. Go down left and find the clean slot left again at the mouth of the through cave.The route takes the clean central line up the wall, past a tied off peg at two thirds height.G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998).
Carmel Head (opposite Skerries lighthouse)
The Lost Pillar of Scheiser XSThe cliff is largely decomposing but with one magnificent vein of quartz type stratified intrusion. This is of course The Lost Pillar. Start just right of the biggest sea cave and bail to the top, taking care with the rock.G.Smith, M.Crook. (18/11/92).
Penmon QuarryHamamatsu Flies Again E3 5c 27m.An interesting varied route through big roofs on solid rock. Good gear. Ascend the scree slope directly below the cliffs to largest roof. Climb suspect rock until a groove leads directly to a corner and ledge underneath the first roof. A long sling can then be attached to an iron nail here. Traverse out, turning the roof on its left and make a hard move up to get both feet on the lip and a rest. Ascend the crack to a second roof and make a strenuous traverse left under this. …bla, bla, bla….R.Durnford, M.Boater. (7/8/91).?? (Driller Killer ?)A Delicate route on mainly sound rock. Start below the obvious drill line and ascend shattered rock to an obvious crack at 5m. Good gear. Pull round the bulge with difficulty and onto the main face and the drill line where the rock becomes solid. Follow the drill line on small positive holds to a good peg (?) at 13m. Move right to a line of flakes. Move back into the drill line, and carefully trend left to gain the arête just below the obvious ledge. From the ledge, make delicate moves left on suspect rock and pull up an overhanging finish.R.Durnford, M.Boater. (22/8/91).…???…of Jools HVS 4c 33m.Takes the slab and corner left of Driller Killer. Finish moving right from the ledge of Driller Killer.M.Boater, M.Raw, R.Durnford,. (22/7/91).?? Dee HVS 5a 40m.Obvious hanging crack 12m left of Passions of Fools.M.Boater, R.Durnford. (28/3/92).
Quirky Hip Gyrations E3 6b 8m.A horizontal crack leading to a large ledge, pulling out to large holds leftwards, overhanging moves up a corner to a triangular block. Move right around to top. Sea edge of Penmon Quarries.Martin Breialt. (12/7/93).
Quirky Hip Gyrations E3 6b 8m.A horizontal crack leading to a large ledge, pulling out to large holds leftwards, overhanging moves up a corner to a triangular block. Move right around to top. Sea edge of Penmon Quarries.Martin Breialt. (12/7/93).
