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North Coast
North Coast
A bit of a hidden backwater in terms of the meat and two veg of gogarth.
Some good cliffs exist between Wylfa and the Old Brick works seaward of the windmills.
Parking in Llanbadrig, and access the cliff edge via the coastal path when adjacent to the chapel head down a ramp some of the routes are accessed below on a tidal shelf. ( These routes were first approached by open Canoe)
Carmel Head (opposite Skerries lighthouse)
Some good cliffs exist between Wylfa and the Old Brick works seaward of the windmills.
Parking in Llanbadrig, and access the cliff edge via the coastal path when adjacent to the chapel head down a ramp some of the routes are accessed below on a tidal shelf. ( These routes were first approached by open Canoe)
Llanbadrig.
Approach via the ramp
Name? Corner system HVS
start off platform climb the corner
Andy Hall & Ian McNeill 1996
Wall and Groove to the right E1
North by North West - E3 6a - 30m
Climbs the (Obvious dark shadowed 1/3 up ramp) Groove to the overlap and crosses the over lap leftwards up over grass to a belay on the rock well back (V visible in photo top left)
Ian McNeill & Andy Hall 1996
Approach via the ramp
Name? Corner system HVS
start off platform climb the corner
Andy Hall & Ian McNeill 1996
Wall and Groove to the right E1
North by North West - E3 6a - 30m
Climbs the (Obvious dark shadowed 1/3 up ramp) Groove to the overlap and crosses the over lap leftwards up over grass to a belay on the rock well back (V visible in photo top left)
Ian McNeill & Andy Hall 1996
Ynys Y Fydlyn
Jam Yesterday, Jam Tomorrow, But Never Jam Today E4 6a 20m.This route is best approached by a tunnel through the headland which begins in the cave to the left of the George Smith classic: Lost Pillar of Scheiser. More boringly, walk north over the headland, from the beach, to a tall concrete post. Go down left and find the clean slot left again at the mouth of the through cave.The route takes the clean central line up the wall, past a tied off peg at two thirds height.G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998).
Carmel Head (opposite Skerries lighthouse)
The Lost Pillar of Scheiser XSThe cliff is largely decomposing but with one magnificent vein of quartz type stratified intrusion. This is of course The Lost Pillar. Start just right of the biggest sea cave and bail to the top, taking care with the rock.G.Smith, M.Crook. (18/11/92).
drevil |
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, Feb 25 2007, 7:13 AM EST
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