New Routes ListThis is a featured page

GOGARTH NEW ROUTES
The Upper Tier

Dead and Bloated E6 6c 35m.
A direct finish to Strike. Safe. Follow Strike to the shake out. Step right and climb the wall past 4 pegs to a difficult exit onto the sloping top. Finish easily.
G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (7/7/94).

Sex and Religion E7 6c 35m.
The obvious left hand finish to Blackleg. Sustained climbing with poor protection. More serious then Panorama. Follow Blackleg past the flakes to a good nut placement. Move up and left to a poor peg. Continue with difficulty to gain the vertical crackline above and follow this to join Strike. Finish up this.
G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (26/7/93). (on-sighted by Caff, 2003).

Blackleg - worth E5 6a (P.R).
Barbarossa - Peg gone, now a lot bolder (P.R & Caff).
NoddyB.Bransby freed aid point on Noddy, years ago, but rested higher up. Chris Parkin freed Pitch 3 with Frazer Ball in mid 1990's gave it E46a/b The traverse past the aid peg (was a rurp) leads to top of Cruise nowhere near Winking Crack. CP & FB prob 1st free ascent pre dating BB, - peg /rurp not crucial as good highgear is available before traverse.
Peg missing on Street Survivor.
Afreet Street - worth E5 (P.R). C Parkin comment: If this is E5 Blackleg is still E6 the minimal pro is suspect

Greg's Wall (?) E3 5c 53m.
Juggy blob hauling and pinching up the wall between Afreet Street and Fail Safe. Start as for Afreet Street, stepping left onto the ramp of Fail Safe. Follow the curving undercut feature, past a good small wire, then go straight up the wall to an obvious large chickenhead ledge. An exciting mantle onto this leads to a groove and flared crack which takes you to the exit move of Fail Safe and its belay. The second pitch of Energy Crisis gives a balanced finish.
Tim Neill, Jon Garside, Sue Savage. (31/5/02).
Main Cliff

Achilles E3 50m.
The obvious crack left of Diogenes. Start as for Diogenes.1 10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.2 40m. 5c. Climb the crack to a big flake at 17m. Step right and make hard moves to gain a wide crack, which leads strenuously to the final moves of Diogenes.
Pat Littlejohn, John Mothersele. (9/91).

Coming on Strong E6 50m.
The immaculate orange face left of Archilles. Sustained climbing in the upper part. Start as for Diogenes.1 10m. As for Diogenes, pitch 1.2 40m. 6b/c. Climb the slabby face left of Archilles, then bear right till beside the big flake on that route. Move left and up a groove to an overhang, then break back right to a rest spot. Climb the twin cracks left of Archilles to a peg, then launch up left on a shallow ramp to another thin crack. Pull past the bulge on the right until good holds lead up the final face.
Pat Littlejohn, Mark Diggins. (10/91).

Lardvark E3 6a 37m.
Start up Imitator to small overlap. Surmount it and climb a little finger crack to join Aardvark just below it's crux. Do this and continue straight up a thin crack above to the top.
M.Crook, Rich Cutler. (6/93).

Return to Garth Gog E4
1 23m. 6a. Climb the overhanging crack in the front face of the Gogarth Pinnacle. Well protected but strenuous.2 6a. Start in the crack of Falls Road and after 8 metres, climb up and right via sloping holds to the right hand side of a sloping ledge.3 4c. Ramble and climb to the base of Gogarth, pitch 4 (the big corner).4 50m. 5c. Climb the obvious flaky crack to its junction with the top pitch of Gogarth. Finish as for Gogarth.
M.Turner, L.Thomas, Graham MacMahan. (11/94).

Eraserhead - 2nd pitch is about 20m and easy E6. (P.R)

Wall of Fossils - First pitch worth 6b, second pitch is crap and very eliminate (P.R & Caff).

Mammoth - Direct Finish
3 40m. 6a. Up the short wall as for Dinosaur, then go straight up the open corner above and continue direct to the top.Eddie Cooper, P.Littlejohn. (21/5/95).

Extinction E8 6b 30m
Takes the wall right of Hunger. Climb the wall immediately left of the chimney (Mammoth Direct) until it is possible to move left and up to a flake with good runners. Move left along the obvious line to a spike and runner, crux moves lead straight up to another spike and then to a peg where improving holds lead up past the roofs to a wild finish.
Steve Mayers (25/4/91).
(Climbed ground-up over a few days by Stuart Cameron and confirmed at E8, 26/7/93,Still one of the few ground up E8 ascents in the UK).

Food E6 6b 30m
Start up Graduation Ceremony and climb direct up the awesome groove, through a roof (last gear), and left on to the rib and up this to the Citadel Belay.
Paul Prichard, Ben Prichard. (on-sight).

Drink E5 6b 27m.
This pitch is the obvious second pitch to Food. From the sloping ledge at the base of the main pitch of Big Groove, climb up the next groove to the right, going left into a niche after a bit, then back right to the original groove and up to the top.
A.Wainwright, C.Waddy. (on-sight). (27/5/92).(Amendment: Hold come off, making it E6 and it is now necessary to climb up the right side of the groove, instead of moving left as first described - Adam Wainwright).
Food and Drink E6 6b,6b
Combination of the above. G. Farquhar and N. Craine, 1993

Sebastopol - on 2nd pitch, traversing left to arête is hard. Going back right is easy. (P.R)
Graduation Ceremony worth E5.

The Tet Offensive - 2nd pitch worth 6a and bold (P.Littlejohn?)

The Wastelands - new 2nd pitch description:2 6a. This pitch climbs the very hairy wall to the left of The Big Groove. Trend up and left on good holds to some flakes. Step right into a thin crack and make difficult moves, poor peg, to a junction with Puzzle Me Quick. Ascend the left-facing groove and exit right, around the arête, onto the hairy slab. Escape right into The Big Groove, nut belay.

On the 3rd pitch of Morphine, climb 2m right of Pentathol, not 5m.

The Night Prowler HVS 45m.
1 8m. 4c. As for Scavenger, pitch 1.2 37m. 5a. Follow Scavenger Direct for 16 metres to an obvious overlap. Step up and left to the base of a steep crack which is followed on good holds un
til it is possible to step left into the bottom of the Nightride chimney/groove. Finish up this.Pete Greening, Nick Sharp. (5/7/95).

Easter Island Gulley

Catalogue Man's Big Adventure E3 5c 33m.
Essentially a left hand finish to Rotten Gut. Climb up Rotten Gut to the yellow rock then break left and make a gnarly move over a roof. Continue on suspect rock for 7m and step left before a wall of green lichen. Finish up adjacent E1.
Mat Smith, Ray Saunders. (21/5/94)
.
The Ragged Runnel E5 6a 50m.
A good adventure through 'territory'. Ascend the first pitch of Wandering wall, free climbing past the fishing rod manoeuvre (possible stance here). Arrange some protection and battle with the roof. Place some more good gear round on the wall above before the legs collapse, then go up the shattered **** to a rest on a tiny ledge. Continue up the disintegrating scoop above past a possible spike belay. The top requires some care. (It would be possible to escape onto the Wonderwall side of the zawn after the easier ground is reached). Belay well back on the path down to the zawn. The route in no way supersedes Wandering Wall, it is merely an alternative exploit for those without fishing rods.
G.Smith. (on-sight, completely in bulk). (28/8/91).

Wen Slab Area
Variation to the second pitch of A Dream of White Horses. E1 5a.Descend from the second belay (first belay for the shorter variation) for 5 metres whilst completely ignoring the obvious line of holds which constitute the actual route! When halfway down to the Wen ledge, notice a tenuous line of white flakes leading leftwards. Climb on frail rock with laughable protection until you reach the corner. Go up this to meet the third pitch of 'Deram', one third of the way along, passing a dodgey hanging flake. Belay.(2/9/95).

Rubble E7 83m.
The softest route in the world. The concrete chimney that Concrete Chimney climbs 3m of. The most obvious line at Gogarth.1 33m. 6a. Super step out of the cave at the bottom on the finest of Welsh pebble dashing. Move left out of the concrete to belay at the end of T-Rex, pitch 1. Appalling protection.2 27m. 6a. Follow T-Rex to the huge ceiling and go through the right end of this past the hanging flange of death (crucial RP 1) to join Concrete Chimney and belay.3 23m. 5a. Done before - E1 chimney in sensational position.
Paul Prichard, Leigh McGinley (AL). (on-sight). (10/91).

Games Climbers Play, Original Start - Bold start, worth E6 6b. (Twid & P.R)

(It's a) Broad Church E6/7
1 6a. Start at a groove left of the start of Games Climbers Play. Go up the groove to a bulge. Swing left and go up to a peg belay.2 6b. Hard work allows progress up the groove, past a peg and a worthog, to a rest. Reluctantly carry on and swing right to belay on Games Climbers Play.3 5c. Climb up, over a bulge, to a belay on the slab on A Dream of White Horses.4 6a. Go up and left and pull through a roof (just left of The Golden Bough Finish) to gain the top.
Nick Dixon, Noel Craine (AL). (2/5/97).(Reliant on in-situ gear and carabiners: E6 if good, E7 if not - P.R & B.Bransby)
Variation left hand first pitch to Broad Church - F.A: N.Dixon. (No details).

Mister Softy E6 80m
A fine outing up the back wall of the zawn. Start at the base of the obvious pillar approximately 10m left of T Rex.1 15m. 5b. Climbs the obvious pillar to a small overlap. Pull over this into a decomposing groove and follow this to a disappointing stance, old pegs.2 40m. 6b. Move left into a groove (passing 2 old pegs) and climb up and right onto a hanging slab. Follow this to more old pegs, rest. Weird moves leftwards and upwards bail round an arête into a groove. Follow this, where angels tread to fear. Upwards and leftwards to join the Janitor finish, halfway along it's traverse. Belay here.3 25m. 6a. Climbs the obvious groove above to a deep slot. Traverse recklessly leftwards to a short hanging groove. From the top of this, exit rightwards onto the Dream of White Horses slab. Finish up this with disconcerting difficulty
.A.Wainwright, G.Smith (AL). (ground up). (30/8/94).

The Mad Brown E7
A fabulous expedition up the loosness left of Mister Softy. None of the pitches are excessively serious or difficult.1 6a/b. Climb the first 7 metres of Mister Softy to a large fin. Swing round left and cross the wall on good holds to gain a straight crack leading to a roof. Surmount this to gain a wide crack and good resting holds. Traverse left and stupidly enter the huge hole. Belay on in-situ ice pegs and a cam 4.2 6b. Move out left, peg runners, and grasp a suitcase shaped thread block. Good holds lead up to a crack. Slap for the short arête on the left and gain the slab above with difficulty. In-situ ice peg belay and some arbitrary cams etc.3 5b. Follow the Conan traverse to belay on the in-situ thread, just right of the pegs. Good belay.4 6a. Follow the top pitch of Mister Softy for 7 metres, up the wide-open groove to a good spike and arrange protection. Step down and swing left round a fin to gain diagonal cracks. Go up to an obvious hand jam and left into a niche, peg runners. Exit the niche, left to attain a sloping boss. Cross the headwall leftwards for 5 metres to better holds in the mosail choss. Go straight up the shallow groove in obscure holds to the roof. Surmount this in a position of sensational rope drag.
G.Smith, A.Wainwright (AL). (1996).Notes: The first two pitches would be difficult to escape from. One possibility would be to trail an abseil rope, though this may dislodge loose stuff from the lip, without great care.

Conan the Librarian - Janitor's Finish worth E6 6b,6a.

Conan the Librarian E7
2a 36m. 6b. The original 2nd pitch now climbed free past the pegs but then a finish slightly leftwards was made to avoid area of rockfall (utilising the stance on The Unridable Donkey, which has now been cleaned up, is probably the best option).
Steve Mayers, Grant Farquhar (1992)

The Undertaker E7 6c
A direct start to Conan the Librarian, starting 7m around to the right of the original, under the arch. Belay on a ledge, accessible approximately 2hrs after high tide. It takes the obvious wide crack until a swing left on a spike can be made to a peg which can be backed up by RP's. Swing out wildly across the roof to gain the base of the Conan groove and continue as for that route.
Steve Mayers, Grant Farquhar. (1992).

Instant Van Goch E5 6b 23m.
A delightful trip up the painted wall, underneath Wen Zawn arch (faces west). From the 'dam', step onto the wall and climb diagonally left on magnificent holds to a good rest. Venture up and right, past two pegs, to gain an enormous undercling. From this, lunge for the very dubious looking block and continue in the same line leftwards to a huge spike. Lower off. Magnificent varied climbing and so forth.
G.Smith, James Harrison. (1996).

The Criptic Rift

The Wild Underdog E7 6b/c
The flake line right of Evidently Chickentown. Start up that route, follow the chimney to the bulge at it's crux. Step down and right for 3 metres to a ridiculous 1m2 slab on the arête. Grasp the huge flake and bar relentlessly into the hanging groove. Loosely ascend this to a large thread in the roofs above. A remarkable route.
G.Smith. (7/96).

Evidently Chickentown - (Hard for E5, confusing route description but good - B.Bransby)

Friday's Extendable Arms E2 5c
A useful and exciting alternative start to Britomartis when the state of the sea would involve an enema climbing round into the groove from the ledge. Start in the base of The Trap. Move left to a hold on the left arête and continue steeply on good holds to the ledge (joining Gobbler's Arête). Continue up to the second diagonal ledge and move left around the arête to find an immaculate hand traverse leading across the face to join Britomartis about halfway up it's first pitch.
Nick Arding, Dave Pearce. (10/10/03).

The Sad Cow E3 6a
A direct finish to Vend-T, which takes the obvious pink wall to the ledge left (right?) of Britomartis. Follow Vent-T to the point where it strikes up forcefully to the ledge. Step right on small flakes and climb directly, crux, to reach better holds and a little crack. Finish slightly left to the large ledge.
Me(?) and George, (5/91).

Billy Bud E6 6b 17m
.A good steep pitch with perfect rock and protection. Abseil down to the island underneath Spiders Web arch. Pendulum into the cliff and clip an in-situ (?) nut. From here, go rightwards under the roof for more gear - pull round the roof and deal with the leaning crack above. Pull over a bulge and grab the 'handle' (don’t use this feature for a thread as it will break - good wires instead). The next bulge is easier, continue up Spider Wall to a belay, with difficulty.
G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1991).

The 4th Dimension E7 6b/c 27m.
Start from the island (the 'whale') underneath Spiders Web, gained by abseil from the top. Use the abseil rope to pendulum onto the wall, as for Heinous Flytrap. Follow Heinous Flytrap leftwards for 3 metres until obvious good holds lead rightwards through steep rock to an in-situ thread. Difficult moves lead leftwards to another in-situ thread. A flake on the left side of a roof leads to good holds and a vague easing of angle. It is possible to step left here into a niche and get a good shake out. Once rested, or bored, climb up rightwards to a large undercut block thing, runners and kneebars. Clip a peg on the right and make hard moves past this rightwards, crux, to gain the slab of Britomartis. A quality pitch on very good rock. Steep and safe.
A.Wainwright. (16/7/96).

Heinous Flytrap E7
Takes the left arête of the wall, then large roof crack under Barfly. Start from 'the whale' (see appendix A). Swing into the groove in the middle of the steep wall (on a rope).1 17m. 6b. Climb the groove to its top then out left along the obvious undercuts (etc) to a technical kneebar crossover crux (with a 'Greek kick' if you want) and on up large flakes to belay where it eases at jugs in a slight recess with a small spike.2 10m. 6b. Continue up a short crack on the left, then swing out left onto a huge flake and duck round and under and then move up to belay at the left hand end of the obvious large roof crack.3 13m. 6b. Follow the crack rightwards to lip.4 20m. 4c. Easier to top.
C.Waddy, G.Smith (AL). (Ground-up stylee, except top pitch which was red-pointed on gear).
Appendix A - Access, comfort and escape.Abseil straight down to the route from a thread under a boulder above the wall, clipping into the top two bits of in-situ gear on the not yet finished "4th Dimension & how to get there". This enables the swing to the groove to be made easily from the whale-like island. However, it's best to belay on it. The 2nd is a very uncomfortable hanging belay. If the belayer lowers off, with the rope clipped into separate runners, then one can, by pulling on alternative ropes, set up a swing that allows a good ledge, about 7m up Spiders Web, to be gained. This is a much more comfortable belay. This method also allows escape to be made. The second can then prussuk (only about15m) to regain the route.
Appendix B - Tides and seepage.The island seems to remain above water at high neap tides, unless it is rough. However, it may be hard to swing into the route at this state of the tide.The 1st pitch is often dampish at the bottom in the morning, but this bit isn't too bad.

Spiders Web (free) E5 68m.
A thrilling trip with some awkward moves. Good gear, standard rack.1 5c. Pitch one is pegless and tough.2 6b. Bridge the chimney to its top. Extend the web with sling. Bridge down to the lip. Reverse arm bar a slot, good wire #1. Swing out across the lip and layback vigorously.3 5a. ..and so on.
G.Smith, T.Bonner. (6/91).

Bar Fly E6/7 6b
From the base of Spiders Web chimney, swing out across the straight crack leading towards the lip of the Web. Finish at a spike in a groove. Wires, cams. E6 in bone dry conditions, E7 in the usual Wen Zawn conditions. Best visited at the end of the day, when it comes into the sun.
G.Smith. (6/91).

The Boston Struggler E5 70m.
1 23m. 5c. Climb pitch 1 of Blowout, then layback flakes leading out leftwards from the huge wide chimney left of Spiders Web. Belay at the arête.2 13m. 6b. Swing into the wild roof slot and jam round the lip with more gambling bars than Monte Carlo. Belay in the groove above.3 34m. 5c. Swing round right and climb the gently overhanging scoop of knobs and flakes above the Web, finishing rightwards. Bit loose.
G.Smith, D.Kendall. (6/91).

Forgery E5 6b 34m.
As one descends to Spiders web, one passes a smooth North Stack like wall, which one may be tempted to test ones fingers upon. Start in the middle of the wall. Take RP's etc.Gain a ledge at 3 metres and climb a short left facing corner to a thin flake which leads quite boldly, to a square roof, thread. Go right around this, crux, and traverse left across the lip to a groove, bold. Climb this and a vague rib till trending left gains a peg on another route.
C.Waddy, J,Vlasto. (7/89).(Better maybe, having gone round the roof, step right, hard, to an easy flake)

Will Mawr is left of Genflux, not right.

Kraken VS 4c
Climbs the crack left of Ipsofacto.
P.A.James, A.Leary (April 2008)

Mustang - worth VS 4c.

Carol VS
Climbs the vague crack 5m right of Mr. Seal. Go up the crack to a ledge and bear left. A step right gains a quartz jug and the top.
J.Dalton, F.Williams. (11/4/90).

Miura is not VS and has been superseded completely by The Tail (worth E3 5c - takes the 3rd groove along the ledges, not the 2nd) and the following route:

Huncho E2 5bQuite a serious pitch. This takes the shallow groove 3m left of The Tail. Climb the groove, bold, to a bulge, lots of poor runners. Move up carefully to gain easier ground. Finish up left, blind but excellent rock.
M.Crook, A.Newton. (18/4/94).

A much better way of climbing Maverick is:Flooze VS 4c 37m.An excellent pitch, at its grade. Start as for Maverick. Climb up leftwards around the shallow arête and up into a shallow groove. Climb as directly upwards as possible, bold, on excellent holds, on the strange rock, steep, to reach the top. Belay well back.D.Ferguson, C.Brown. (1993).

Flytrap Area

Six White Boomers VS 4c 33m.
Start between Mordor and Colditz just right of some black spikes. Climb easily up cracks to a ledge, move steeply left to a left slanting niche and pull over a bulge into the groove above. Follow this and move left at the top to finish up the front of the buttress.
Dave Furguson, James McQueen. (7/5/94).

Roof Rack E7 6c 17m.
The roof above Seal Song. From a belay on the outer face of the Seal Song fin, go up to the break. Tug across the roof, passing good pegs (average peg near the lip). The crack above is eight grades easier but seems very difficult none the less.
G.Smith, attempts over several years I'm afraid. (1995).

The Porcelain Arena E6 50m.
An exceedingly traditional route, starting left of the cave and finishing at a giant chockstone, via the back of the cave. Start round ton the right of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.1 6b. Ascend the initial chimney of The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes, then traverse right to the arête. Gain a slanting crack up and right with difficulty. This widens to a strenuous and awkward vice/pod which in turn leads to the roof of the cave. Belay.2 5c. Either throw yourself into the sea, or arrange protection and traverse the wall to a point where it is possible to bridge the width of the zawn (or continue along the wall) to the top of the flytrap chockstone. An atmospheric pitch.3 20m. 4b. As for Flytrap, pitch 3.
G.Smith, Simon Melia. (2003).

The Shadowy World of the Nemotodes - E6 6b - No details.F.A: G.Smith

The Ultraviolet Exterminator - E7? - No details.F.A: G.Smith

Lola E3/4 5c/6a 20m.
Start 7 metres to the left of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, just right of The Hitcher. Climb up and right to gain a small triangular, then follow slim grooves to overlaps which lead to easier climbing and a break. Finish up the obvious compact headwall. The crux is about 10 metres up, above deep water at high tide and the rest of the route is fine. A very good solo (though a right hand start from 20,000… may be safer).
C.Waddy (solo). (2002?).Done before by Dai Lampard and Twid.

The Hitcher - worth E1 5a/b.

Jug Patrol E1
This takes the flake crack some 3m left of The Hitcher, starting about 15m right of the highpoint on the traverse from Parliament House Cave.1 23m. 5b. Climb the steep pink flake to reach good holds and a ledge beneath the less steep wall. Move left and surmount the bulge, climbing gradually left to reach a niche on Route 66, ledge.2 20m. 4c. Climb the crack above the belay with care to reach the grassy slopes above. Belay on the abseil rope or blocks above.
M.Crook, A.Newton. (17/4/94).

Skippy E1 45m.
Between Jug Patrol and Oijee Wall is a left slanting chimney. Start 3 metres left of this.1 25m. 5b. Climb the wall left of the chimney up to a groove. Climb this to an overlap and make steep moves over it to belay on the ledge system of Route 66.2 20m. 4c. Take the slab above on big flakes to a grassy finish. Belay on blocks.
Tony Morley, Dave Ferguson. (8/4/97).

North Stack

Touching Cloth E1 35m.
On the big wall opposite North Stack wall. Start in a huge-ish chimney that faces south (I think). From 7m up this, go right to a crack, which leads to a recess. Continue from the left hand side of this up a crack to the top.
C.Waddy. (5/90).

Pigs in Space A4A direct start to Black Rod from The Big Overhang pedistal. Traverse from the top of The Big Overhang start pillar, to the knackered tat below the belay of Black Rod. Bloody desperate and total death should one placement fail.Estimated time: 3hrs.Ropes, hooks and Bottoming K.B's behind loose blocks.
James Howel, Dave Anderson. (1992?).

The Wrath of Deadly Lampshade E5 6a/b 27m.
The obvious cracks left of Le Bon Sauveur, are hard for 17m then more easily lead up the left hand side of the large overhang.
Alister Hopkins, George Smith. (5/91).

Drug Buddy VS 4c 25m.
Climbs the chimney/groove to the right (looking out to sea) of End Game. Bridge up the chimney until it is possible to pull onto the slabby wall on the left, then climb the wall and groove to the top.
P.Greening. (5/12/95).(May have been climbed by Nigel and Barbara Jones a few years before - AW).
(Don't know where next routes start - P.R)
The Jigs Up E5 6a 23m.
Start as for Rickety Fence Route at a hanging belay on the arête. Move up the groove in the arête to holds below the first bulge. These lead leftwards onto the overhanging face. Climb a fragile flake to a rest at its top, then sprint straight up to the top.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

Rickety Fence Route HSS 5c/6a 27m.
(Can't read description)
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).

Tsumami Zawn area
To the right (looking in) of Tsunami Zawn (maybe) is another bay. Right again is a Tibia shaped arête, left of a roofed square groove. Right again is slabby easy ground, running to sea level.
God's Bone XS 6b 10m.
This arête has no relevant gear, but can be climbed on its left side. At high tide it is a safe solo.C.Waddy. (1996).

Tsumami (free) E4/5
1 5a.As described.2 4c. As described.3 5b. Traverse across the wall to belay in a wide crack. Loose and serious.4 5b. Scary moves up the groove then out right. Very loose and very serious.
Will Perrin (pitch 4), Peter Robins (pitch 3). (6/2001).

SOUTH STACK
On the sea level traverse between the Loathsome Cleft and the Upper Tier, there is a through cave. Facing its northern end is a steep red wall. Around to the left is a slab in a corner - the easiest way out.

The Sweet Smell of Excess XS
1 32m. 5b. Climb a short wall on the left to a step onto the slab. Climb the corner to a roof then step out rightwards to a ledge. Move up to a better ledge beneath the steep wall. Climb this leftwards up to some loose rock and move up to easier ground and broken ledges on the left. Good belay.2 50m. 5a. It would be pointless to describe the next 7 metres since it is temporary edifice in a state of flux. Above this the vegetation is only just beginning to re-establish itself after the fire of a few years ago, the ground being a fine shifting dust. Climb upwards for nearly 40 metres to a flat, white boulder. Take a stance behind this, buttocks firmly clenched around a small gorse bush. Destined to become a classic!
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1/7/00).

Harry and Ida Swap Teeth E2 5b 30m.
The loathsome cleft which contains FEU123ELF. Continue down below that route to the beach. The route follows a leftwards rising band of red rock on the north promontory of the zawn, bounded on the left and right by slabs. Traverse 20 metres from beach to ledges below the steep red rock, not easy.Climb up steeply on weathered brown rock to a ledge. Traverse left and up to a cleanly cracked block. Above and left, the terrain becomes steeper and leads to a headwall, topped by a small overhang. From below this, move rightwards onto a slab and up for 5 metres to belay on top of the pinnacle.
Howard Jones, Gill Lovick.

100 metres further left from Trinity House Wall, a cliff comes down at right angles. In it's upper half, it has wide cracks rising rightwards to the hillside. Below these are flaky overhangs and lower still are three diagonal cracks, which reach down to ledges above high tide.

Sea Pig E3 50m.
1 25m. 5c. Start on the ledge. Follow a narrow ramp for 5 metres to an overlap and go rightwards past this and onto the wall. Use the upper and middle cracks to climb up to the roof, all pleasant and well protected. Climb upward to a higher flake line and right to the arête. Using an undercling pinch, a sidepull and a groin strain, to reach a belay on the face, shared with an irate Razor Bill.2 25m. 5b. Wide chimney cracks lead rightwards, the rock and protection getting progressively worse, until reaching a rising slab on the right. Step across to the slab and tiptoe up it to grass. Belay in a corner, 5 metres further up.
Ian Wilson, P.Thomas, Neil ? (1994).(Claimed by Glenda and Howard as Five Bellies in 1997).

Skull Zawn
Corner left of Sea Witch - E5 5c (F.A: A.Wainwright) No details.
Wall left of Sea Witch - E5 6a (F.A: G.Huxter) No details.

Trinity House Walls

Kareoke Bar E6 6b
The wall right of Scud. Climb the first crack past a peg, rest. Attack the twin cracks and pull over onto a slab (interesting). Top out on a good ledge.
M.Turner. (8/91).

Scud E3 5c/6a
Obvious groove/corner line left of The Hood. Climb groove/corner until forced onto arête. Shoot up this to belay.
Ian Wilson (Wraith), Yob, Shagger. (Summer/91).

El Presidente E5 6b 27m.
The left hand overhanging thin crack of the wall, left of Twid's E5. 1 blue peg low down and 1 angle at 10 metres. Strenuous and unnerving, but an ace route.
P.Prichard, G.Smith. (29/7/96).

Idlevice E5 6b 40m.
Climbs the soaring crack, left of Scud, direct to a good ledge.
M.Turner. (8/91).

Friend or Anenome E4 6a 35m.
As for The Hood to the top of the continuation groove. Move left at the hanging arête and climb directly to the top. Nice positions.
Owain Jones, M.Turner (on-sight). (29/7/91).

The Hood E2 36m.
This route lies about 200m to the left of The Man From Uncle at an obvious corner above a steep crack (groove capped by a small roof).1 18m. 5c. Gain the square cut groove, go over a bulge, and up to the roof, good gear. Move out awkwardly right to gain the continuation groove and go up to below the top corner.2 18m. 5b. Climb the corner on very South Stack rock, to the top. Belay up on the grass.
Andy Newton, Ian Wilson (Wraith), (AL). (14/5/91).

Walking the Plankton E5 6a 35m.
The fine hanging corner, right of The Hood. Climb the obvious corner to its top. Move right to beneath corner, runners in break. Gain corner by scary rising traverse right to get lodged in the groove. Climb this (cam # 1 & peg) to roof exit left.
Owain Jones, Andy Farnell. (2/8/91).

International Rescue HVS 5b 35m.
Start halfway between The Hood and Mr Waverley. Climb the corner to gain good holds at the base of a wide blind crack. Awkward moves gain a good ledge (cam 4). Move right and up an overlap and thin slab to gain good holds again. Move 4m right to join Mr Waverley. Climb 3m up this then go left up a short slab (possible belay) to finish by climbing onto the hanging arête in a good position. Belay well back, large cams.
Andy Newton, Jim Wyllie. (20/6/91).

Mr Waverley HVS 5a 40m.
The wall right of The Hood contains a number of cracks and grooves. Climb the 2nd crack line right of The Hood pleasantly to reach a good ledge, possible belay, good runners on the left. Finish up weird rock in a good position.
Andy Newton, Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault. (13/6/91).

Freu Cowgirls get the Blues HVS
Climbs the most continuous crack, right of Mr Waverley.1 25m. 5b. Climb the crack, past a hard move at half height, to a ledge below the final bulges.2 10m. 4c. Go leftwards through the bulges on good holds to finish up a short groove type thing. Belay, gear on the left.
Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley (AL), Liz Wade. (26/7/91).

Start Me Up HVS 5a 47m.
The line starting some 3 metres right of Freu Cowgirls get the Blues.1 34m. 5a. Go over bulges to belay 3 metres below the top of the corner of Parker.2 13m. 4b. Climb up the corner and move left then up. Step across to a belay
.Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley (AL). (7/8/91).

Parker E2/3 5c 47m.
Right of Start Me Up and left of the landing from the abseil is a black, white streaked, corner. Climb the left arête of the corner, hard for the short, and continue to the top in the obvious continuation corner line, rather more easily.
Leigh McGinley, Andy Newton. (7/8/91).

Catch a Fire E1 5b 43m.
4 metres right of the black corner, take the crack line to the small roof at 6m. Pull rightwards through this and carry on up, over bulges, in the same line to exit around about the abseil boulder.
Andy Newton, Leigh McGinley. (7/8/91).

Rapping VS 4b 43m.
Climb the groove right of the abseil landing and trending slightly left. Climb the abseil line to the boulder over various bulges and ledges.
Leigh McGinley (solo). (26/7/91).

Thunderbird Zawn

The Flying Shed E5 6a 30m.
The obvious shed like cave thing left of Stingray. Climb up the back on huge flakes, possible belay. Bridge out across the 13 metre roof, round the lip and up the short wall. An utterly magnificent route. Large gear recommended.
G.Smith (on-sight). (1997).

Crack Eats Man Alive! E6
The obvious bottom left/top right diagonal fault line through the cave. Start further in the cave, left of Stingray.1 6b. Surmount a flake and ascend a groove slot. Very awkward. Belay at the end of the roof.2 6b. Cross the offwidth roof into a groove. Go right into a further groove to belay.3 6a. Ascend the groove and continue rightwards along the fault line to a wild swing around the arête. Belay on the slab.4 4c. Easily up the wall.
G.Smith. (1996).

The Prisoner E1/2 40m.
Takes a line into Thunderbird buttress from the right.1 25m. 5a. Start on the slab below and right of Thunderbird at a good flake crack. Climb the weakness and go up to a steepening, before moving left across the bottomless corner to gain a hanging wall/groove. Go left around the arête, spectacular, before moving up and around into the slabby hanging groove. Cross the slab to the corner and go up weirdness to construct a belay below a steep groove.2 15m. 5a. Climb the friable overhanging groove by a series of caterpillar-like gyrations and finish up and across.
Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault, Andy Newton. (13/6/91).

The Man From Uncle E1 5a 27m.
This takes the front face of the thin buttress to the left of the cave below thunderbird and opposite the arch. Climb the buttress by two crack running up the face and trend around steeply left where the cracks lead. Finish back right and up. Nice climbing.
Ian Wilson (Wraith), Andy Newton. (14/5/91).

Follower of Hopeless Causes E7
Start on the opposite side of the arch to Archie is Angry, at low tide. Abseil from the top of the arch.1 20m. 6a. Climb the wall to the obvious notch on the arête.2 6b. Traverse 20 metres left, just above the lip of the arch, passing various pegs (mostly rust free Titian) to a hanging stance on the left hand side, at a good crack and peg.3 15m. 6b. Move up and lunge right to another peg. Climb up passing two more pegs to an exciting finish.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (Took four years to complete). (14/9/95).

Archie is Angry E6 6c 37m.
The first arch one comes to when approaching Thunderbird zawn from the South Stack steps. Climb the side of the arch facing the South Stack Island. Abseil down the outside to sea level then traverse right to the archway. Hard moves across the lip of arch gain a good jug, good wire. Climb straight up through the roof to gain an easier groove
.M.Turner, K.Goodey. (6/91).

The Swain E2 5b 20m.
Around rightwards from the arch, gained by traversing underneath the arch, is a small zawn with an easy chimney line in the back (Wraith & Yag soloed it). On the left of this is a steep hanging (?) groove. Climb this to exit left onto a slab, A bit scary.
Leigh McGinley, Ian Wilson, Andy Newton. (8/8/91).

Muppet Zawn
This zawn lies just over the bridge and on the right. Next zawn right from the one with the steps.

Gonzo With the Wind E4 6a 25m.
The left wall of the zawn. Climb the obvious central corner over a bulge then over(?) a roof. The top wall is interesting.
M.Turner, Andy Farnell (on-sight). (1/8/91).

Even Bigger Guns E3/4 5c 23m.
Abseil off South Stack bridge on the mainland side. Pull over a roof and trend up leftwards along a ramp to a short chimney and plants. Good protection.
G.Smith, N.Crain. (1994).

South Stack Island
After crossing the bridge, follow steps down into the first zawn on the right - obvious concrete diving board at the top of the zawn.

Attila the Pun E5 6a 23m.
This takes the steep hand crack leading off slabs on the left-hand side of the zawn (looking in). Follow the crack and then the groove on the right to a rest on a slabby ramp/groove. Cross the wall rightwards on fine south Stack rock, passing interesting quartz jugs/holes, to gain a sandy groove. Follow this to the top.
A.Wainwright, J.Wainwright (on-sight). (5/7/96).

Just north of the bridge are three small right angled bays. Hop over the wall, just on from the green gate. The first route takes the crack in the slab in the most northerly of these bays.

Tinky Winky Severe 23m.
Start by scrambling down slopes to belay in a corner right of the slab at low tide. Traverse left on a quartzy band and climb the crack in the slab to a spike belay.
Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).

The next route is reached by traversing left (looking in) around the arête from Tinky Winky.

The Old Light MXS 23m.
Belay on a pedistal below the curving crack/chimney. Make steep moves up to a large spike and climb the crack/chimney via a variety of cautious moves to a belay on the left.
Dave Ferguson, Ian Wilson. (21/9/97).

Mousetrap Zawn
E6 of Littlejohn's (1999/2000)

Two Fat Slabs E5
Climbs the wall left of Hysteresis. Start below the left most part of the wall, below some green balls. 'Mosscampion'.1 27m. 6a. Climb up left of the balls and over a roof to belay on the same ledge, but further left than Hysteresis, on some spikes (hanging off the ledge).2 40m. 6a. Climb straight up on excellent red rock, through a bulge, to a ledge. Climb over the break/roof to the next break/roof. Move up and right to join Hysteresis as it passes through the blank rock.3 15m. 4c. As for Hysteresis, pitch 3.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1997).

Catatonia E5
A nice eliminate. Start as for Hysteresis.1 40m. 6a. Climb easily to a short vertical crack. Climb this and go left to a cam 4 in a hole, just before the orange wall. Nice moves up this gain the Hysteresis belay.2 50m. 5c. Move right and make a long reach up to a break. Bla bla bla… to the top.
P.Littlejohn (1999/2000?)

The Final Front-Ear 70m E6
1 35m. 6b. First take thin cracks, 5 metres right of Hysteresis to the big breaks. Now thrust up the overhanging jugs, with little protection, and cling on to place a Hex 11 in the lip. Step up the warp factor and traverse right on little holds, crux, to reach the 'ear'. Easier climbing leads to the belay, on Primate. A challenging enterprise.2 35m. 5c. Follow a hand crack through the overhang and up the wall to a good thread. Move left on amazing pockets then go up and rightwards to join Primate to finish.
Paul Prichard, Gwion Hughes. (14/8/97).

Rosebud - Worth E6 6a.

Death Trap E5Variations:

Direct Start(2003)1a 20m 5c. This gains the main diagonal line at the earliest available moment. Start by the right-hand side of the sea cave. Climb up right of the cave to a ledge on the left, level with the lip of the cave. Arrange Worthog protection and make a long and committing span left onto the wall and left again to a scoop in the chimney. Climb up to the Mousetrap belay.W.Perrin, P.Robins.

Death Trap Direct (1988)2a 45m. 5b. An awesome and logical direct on the original. One of the finest pitches at Gogarth. Take a big rack. From the stance on Mousetrap, climb straight up the slanting chimney past a worrying steepening, to regain the original line.

The Head Strimmer 110m E4
1 45m. 5b. As for Mousetrap, pitch 1.2 10m. 5b. From the ledge, climb diagonally right for 8 metres to a volcano, clove hitch. Step right onto a red wall and climb directly to the sloping ledge belay, on Mantrap.3 30m. 6a. This pitch unfolds in the area between Mantrap and Another Roadside Attraction. Leave the ledge, climbing the flake above through two stepped roofs and into the right facing groove, joining Another Roadside Attraction. Belay on the left.4 25m. 5b. Climb left for 3 metres towards a shattered pillar, beneath the centre of a red wall. Climb up on pockets to a crumbly groove finish
D.Towse, A.Wainwright (AL).(1997)

Another Roadside Attraction (new description) E4
A fine route with an excellent, but tiring, main pitch up the red wall on the right side of the zawn. Start from sea level, right of the large cave.1 50m 4c. As for Mantrap, pitch 1. A very serious pitch.2 30m 6a. From the right side of the ledge, go rightwards, then up on awkward holds to gain a shallow left-facing corner and overhang above. Strenuously pull onto the smooth wall above and continue up, heading for the stance on Mantrap.3 21m. 5b. Climb above the belay for three metres, then move left to a slight right-facing corner. Ascend this and the wall above.

Left Hand Red Wall
Cannibal Direct Finish 45m E5 5c
From the final break, step right and climb straight up between Schittlegruber and Cannibal.
M.Pointon. (1993)

Schittlegruber - Worth E5 (?)

Ramalina E6 6b 20m
Follow Left Hand Red Wall to a peg and from the ledge, climb straight up passing a pocket at 10m. A hard move over a bulge leads to a rest. Carry on to the top.
M.Turner, K.Goodey. (15/9/91).
The Heart of Gold Direct-Ramalina connection climbed by G. Farquhar and W. Young, 1997.

Mein Shaft E6 6b 23m.
Follow Mein Kampf Direct to the twin stainless steel pegs. Climb directly up the hairy wall above, crux, between Mein Kampf and Ramalina.
Grant Farquhar, Wills Young (on-sight). (2/10/97).

Howell The Trowell E7 6c 23m
From the belay of LH Red Wall weave through the overlap and wall above. ?peg runner.
M.Turner
For The Enchanted Broccoli Garden and The Super Calabrese, belay to the right on good gear. Reduces the grades (of the top pitches) to E6 and E7 respectively.

Yarding Lard 100m E6
Start at the bottom of the zawn, about 7 metres left of Come to Mother.1 40m. 6b. Step across the void and climb straight up to two pegs. Launch over the roof and up the crack above. Move left into Pagan just below the obvious white ledge. Step off the right hand end and climb the sand pit to the Pagan stance.2 30m. 6a. Follow the sandy break out right to the obvious sandy cave. Step right and climb the pocketed red wall, with good gear, to the Infidel belay.3 35m. 5c. Climb straight up to the horn and move above to a hand jamming crack, left of Anarchist.
M.Turner, Steve Hartland. (8/95).

Metal horn on Infidel has gone.

Care in the Community 30m E5 6a
Start below a spike, as for Outside the Asylum. Climb up the right side of the spike and move left to clip the peg on Outside the Asylum. Climb directly up the corner groove above, over a small overlap and up the wall to a horizontal break at 17 metres. Step right and make increasingly hard moves up the wall, right of a black streak, to arrive below the finishing crack of Anarchist. Move right, hands in the break, and climb the flake just left of the arête, exciting, to belay on the ledge, on the escape route.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/10/95)

Anarchist Direct E3 6a
Starting up Outside the Asylum, follow a corner straight up into Anarchist.
M.Turner, A.George. (Don’t know which George!)(1989)

The Promontory

Red Warbler's 27m E4 6a
The continuation groove, as it were, in the south face of the promontory. Scramble round from the abseil. Swarm up the groove after a hard first move. Protection is every whimps dream.
G.Smith, J.Toombs, D.Holms, A.Wainwright, R.Kay, N.Dixon.(1996)

Red Wall

Roger Melly… E4(?)
Start as for Safer Start! And climb up to beneath a roof. A hard pull gains a line of holds … up to join Television Route. At the bolts and pegs, follow the break up and left to finish out at a sandy recess.
M.Turner, Owain Jones (6/8/93)

Bottom of the Pile 30m E2 5c
Start at a ledge, just above sea level, left of the cove mouth. Climb the rightward slanting corner groove to a flake crack continuing rightwards. Gain the top of the flake and stand up by an inelegant ant tenuous move. Climb up above and move rightwards around the blunt arête to a blocky slab. Continue diagonally right then up a dirty corner to belay on spikes at the foot of Windigo.
H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998)
*Blood Baath43m E4/5 6a (R) (2005)
Start from the block belay as for Redshift pitch 2. Start as for Redshift but continue to the overhang, peg. Reach up and out left to a short handcrack, cam 3.5. Follow the crack and climb more or less directly to the capping headwall, climb this moving rightwards to finish at the arete. Fragile rock on headwall.
C Parkin, D J Holmes 28/1/05.

The Tiger's Den E5
1 18m. 5c. As for A Brown Study, pitch 1.2 ??m. 5c. Traverse the ledge rightwards and go right to a corner. Climb the corner to a sloping ledge and traverse 8 metres right to its end and belay.3 ??m. 6a. Drop down a metre and traverse right (loose) to a hanging red wall. Climb this, under a line of overhangs until a hard move brings you out on a slab. Top out, boulder belay.
M.Turner, K.Goodey. (19/9/91).

Fire and Grimstone 20m E5 5c
This route deals with the groove line 3 metres right of the start to A Brown Study. Climb up the groove, passing much sand, loosness, and brittle fins to join A Brown Study at the top of its first pitch. Belay on good rock in the corner above. Finish wherever you wish.
A.Wainwright, J.Harrison. (5/9/96).

Castle Helen

Nematoid 40m E3 5c
From the belay at the top of the first pitch of Captain Nemo, climb up the obvious groove. At the top of the groove, go over a small roof and weave a way up the wall above to reach a diagonal break/ledge. Follow the break/ramp left to a large corner and finish up this to a grassy scramble.
A.Wainwright, J.Harrison. (5/9/96).

The Flight of the Do Do E4 6a 30m.
Start below an overhanging corner, 17 metres right of the last belay of Freebird. Climb the overhanging wall (small hidden wires) to pull leftwards onto the wall, right of the top pitch of Freebird.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).

New Variant Atlantic Wall
First climbed in 1969 and given a brief description in the Alec Sharp guide, Atlantic Wall was redescribed by Geoff Milburn in the 1981 supplement with the top pitch moved rightwards to make room for North West Passage. The 1990 guide redescribed Atlantic Wall once again and, with a fine disregard for historic precedent, relocated the first belay far to the right of the halfway ledge, creating an excellent pitch at a stroke. In keeping with tradition, Atlantic Wall is redescribed for the new millennium as climbed by G.Huxter and H.Jones:
Atlantic Wall 2000 E3 75m.1 45m. 5c. Climb the arête right of the Atlantis pitch 1 corner, easily at first until forced to climb the centre of the wall for a few moves. Move immediately back right to stand on the arête where Atlantic Wall emerges from below the overhangs. Climb up then diagonally rightwards along a broken crack to gain a blunt right-facing rib after a few metres, which is climbed to reach the traverse of True Moments at the shallow cave on the traverse fault - about 6 metres right of Atlantis corner. From the right-hand end of the cave, gain the wall above and climb directly to the girdle traverse line, just below the thin wet groove that is 4 metres left of the North West Passage groove line. Belay.2 30m. 6b. Gain and climb the thin wet groove to its junction with Caught 'Twixt the Devil and the Deep Blue Sea. Make a move up the leftwards slanting groove of Caught 'Twixt.. until a step rightwards across the face can be made to gain a footledge on the right. From here, climb difficult moves straight upwards, well protected by R.P's, to join North West Passage. Follow this to finish.
G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/00).

Hanging out at Glastonbury E4
A good traverse which allows the excellent 3rd pitch of Free Stone Henge to be experienced by lesser mortals. Start 7m down from Castle Helen Ledge in the corner of Atlantis, on good nuts.1 17m. 5c. Follow the obvious traverse line right to the arête and belay (junction with Obelisk).2 6a. Reverse the traverse of Obelisk and carry on right to belay in centre of slab.3 5c. Pitch 3 of Free Stone Henge.4 5b. Finish up Kalahari.
M.Turner and ?

Free Stone Henge - Worth E6 6b. (PR).

Vital Statistix E8 77m.
Start on the right hand side of the two cheese wedges.1 23m. 5b. Step off the left hand end and climb up steeply to the base of a right facing corner and continue up the slab to belay below the overhanging v-roof of Free Stone Henge.2 7m. 6c. Take the roof direct, right of Free Stone Henge. Start by reaching a large undercut (good nut) and continue with body bars to a rest and undercut up the overhanging groove to a wild bold finish.3 12m. 6c. Climb the roof left of Free Stone Henge.4 35m. 6c. Climb the overhanging wall left of Obelisk's top pitch. Follow the quartz streaks to a peg and R.P's. A hard move left and up gains undercuts, peg, and continue steeply direct to finish. Bold.
M.Turner, L.Thomas. (6/95, climbed over various days).

Drunken without Trace E6 46m.
Start at overhanging groove directly below top of pitch 1 of Kalahari.1 13m. 6b/c. Climb up the wall to below the overhanging groove. Over this and move up to the obvious line of jugs leading to the ledge.2 33m. 6a. Traverse right across break to a loose spike (white tape) and climb up and left through Kalahari (rest). Climb straight up and thrutch through the overhanging chimney. Wild pull out leads to slab above.
M.Turner, L.Thomas, Ian. McNeill. (1992).

Yellow Wall

The Owl and the ***** Cat E6
Start as for The Cow.1 6b. Climb The Cow to a rest on a spike, just past its crux. Climb up and left (sloping mantle) to meet Me. Go up the vague groove to the roof and pull up right to big jug (wire #9). Follow the hanging prow to the golden slab of The Moon, belay.2 6a. Climb the groove direct which Perygl top pitch traverses into. Climb straight up and move right to base of groove (bold), RP's. Go up groove to top.
M.Turner, Ian McNeill. (1992).

?? E6
A line based on the arête between the top grooves of The Cow and Ludwig. Strenuous climbing on an awesome position, though escapable at times.1 5c. Climb up a sandy wall, to the right of Ludwig, to a ledge. Go up to an undercut flaky crack then strenuously pull up and slightly left to meet The Cow. Follow this to the belay.2 6b. Follow Ludwig round onto the red hanging slab then step right to beneath the overhanging arête. Pull over the bulge to gain a sandy break which leads wildly up the arête to better holds and a rest in a fine position. Carry on up on crumbly holds to join Ludwig at the top
M.Turner, P. Robins.

The Yellow Shark E7 6b 35m.
Takes an obvious diagonal line to finish up a square cut groove between the top sections of Me and Isis is Angry. Thanks Crispin ;-) Strenuous and bold. Start from the Moon/Cow hanging belay. Head out rightwards along the ramp, below the top pitch of The Moon, to join Me at the two pegs. Continue easily up this for 7 metres to a good spike on the left. Trend out right to a ledge and continue to the base of the groove (cunning no hands head jam). Difficult moves, crux, with massive fall potential, lead into the groove. Follow this to the capping bulge, traverse right and move up to jugs. Finish easily.
G.Farquhar, M.Turner, A.Perkins. (Briefly inspected from a distance i.e. abbed in to the belay without eyes shut). (26/9/93).

The Big Softy E6 6a 45m.
Start on the ridge below the last pitch of The Sind. Start as for Paddington and climb across a sandy wall to a sort of rest/ledge at the base of a groove. Climb up left (poor gear) and up in a parallel line to The Sind, aiming for an obvious nose of rock.
M.Turner, Andy 'barman'. (6/94).

93,000,000 Miles E4 60m.
An intricate climb which weaves its way up the wall, right of Pterodactyl. As runout as heaven is wide. Start 25 metres down the ramp from Pterodactyl at a block belay.1 45m. 5c. Ascend up and right, following cracks, with gear, onto the edge of the wall. Go straight up past as spunk small recess and through a bulge to a no-hands rest (hidden peg on a small ledge just above). Step back down and traverse left then go straight up until level with the Paddington/ Pterodactyl belay. (Possible to traverse left and place bad runners here - cam #4 useful). Now trend off up and right for a few miles to a small spike, crux. Go up and right again to a ledge and peg belay.2 15m. 5c. From the stance, move up and right to a
pair of Siamese pegs. Crank straight up the steep wall to finish in a groove. A bit spooky.Paul Pritchard, Ian Wilson, Debbie Quinn. (15/7/96).

Sign of the Sun Dog E5 60m.
A wandering and varied route up the very right arête of the Yellow Wall, Scary, technical and strenuous.1 40m. 6b. Follow 93,000,000 Miles to the first peg. Step up and go right onto the flying arête, second peg and small wires. Make weird moves up and run it out in space to a ledge and peg belay, on 93,000,000 Miles.2 20m. 6b. Move up and clip the pegs on 93,000,000 Miles and come back down. Make a hard traverse right under a roof and gain a huge flake (like a mirror image of Schittlegruber). Go up the flake to a horror niche, then right again to finish on the arête with much exposure.
Paul Prichard, Leigh McGinley (AL), Tom Leppert. (17th & 18th of July, 1996 - one bivy in Llanberis).

Not Yellow Wall Escape Route HVS 80m.
This route takes the right arête of the bay containing Yellow Wall and can be reached through the tunnel or by abseil. For those of you familiar with Red Wall Escape Route, this route offers a similar sort of experience on snappy rock with abundant vegetation thrown in.1 33m. 4b. From the boulder beach, climb the arête and a small bulge to a bubble ledge. Move right and belay on a spike.2 20m. 4a. Climb the groove behind the spike and move back left to the arête. Go up the grassy groove to belay.3 27m. 4c. Climb the wall to a large spike. Step off this onto another wall and follow a rising rightwards traverse on Red Wall type rock to the top.
Dave Furgerson, Bob Whichthan. (12/7/97).

Penlas Rock

Echo Madness E6 6b 30m.
Climbs the overhanging crack in the seaward end of the sea arch. Non-tidal. Start at the foot of the overhanging cracks, the left hand one. Haul up to a resting ledge before climbing out along the obvious crack. Hard moves at its end lead to a painful bridge (for the short). Climb straight up and swing out left, 3 metres from the top, to a ledge and belay. An extra rope is handy to run back to a block on the other side of the arch.
M.Turner, Chris Wentworth. (1995).

Grand Plié and Twin Horn E5 5c (will clean up to E4)
Go to the arch on the north side of the peninsula. 17 metres right of Echo Madness is a striated wall, facing out to sea. Climb the left hand edge of the wall with a move slightly right at half height, over a bulge (the twin horn) to eventually gain a shallow recess. Loose and interesting.
G.Smith, N.Craine. (1997).

The Callipygian Groove E6
A good but serious main pitch. Start to the left of the huge sea cave.1 Gain the iguano flake easily.2 6a. Climb steeply up the groove above the ledge, negotiating your way past a suspect block, to a rest just below the lip. Move right and find a way over onto the vegetated slab above. Go up and left (possible poor belay), then carefully pick a line up the loose wall to the top. No belay - so either sit firmly or arrange a third rope before hand.
A.Wainwright.(Callipygian means possessor of fine buttocks)

Tonton's Macoute E6 6a/b 27m.
Start from Gogarth's best belay - the iguano flake at the base of The Callipygian Groove. From the belay, traverse easily into the zawn for 3 metres to reach a diagonal line of breaks leading rightwards over the apex of the zawn. Follow these breaks, steep and sandy, passing an in-situ Hex 11, and battle with loose fins to reach a resting niche. Move rightwards onto ledges and easier ground. Belay around here and either follow easy ground rightwards or retrieve the abseil rope and escape.
A Wainwright, J.McHaffie. (23/9/03).

Rock of Ages E7 6b
The roof crack out of the cave on the seaward face of Penlas Rock. Ascend ledgey terrain to the top of the cave and bridge with obvious difficulty (and poor gear) onto a huge hanging fang. Follow the crack to easier ground and a huge block. By far the best route in the western world.
G.Smith. (8/97).

Pre-Cambrian Wrestler E7 6b 23m.
An unlikely looking scenario through the roofs right of the deep sea cave. Start just above the deck and ascend to huge blocks. Swing left along these into a shallow niche. Wildly climb the left side of the ship's keel to a wall above. Scurry rightwards into a disappointing rest, below a brown roof. Surmount this to a frenzied top out situation. From the ledges, scramble down rightwards.
G.Smith (on-sight). (1996).

Natalie Zawn

Fat Tulips Garden HVS
A poor route on mostly bad rock. Start to the left of the chimney of Natalie and C.P.F's. Go up a slab and move right and up to a hanging chimney, via a foot severing block.
M.Crook, J.Tooms. (1995/96).

C.P.F's 23m HVS
Wide crack on left of cave goes through 2 roofs. Full on, wide, open and hairy.
P.Pritchard, G.Smith. (18/11/92)

Bryngwran Man 30m E4 5c
An excellent route on mostly good rock, with good protection. Start up the chimney of Natalie but continue straight up to a roof. Surge over this direct to finish up a small hanging groove, past the odd mobile hold. Disappointing belay up on the left.
G.Smith, A.Wainwright. (1996)

Blacksmith's Zawn

Ermintrude 36m E6 6a
Left hand finish to Angel Dust. Slightly harder and weirder. Follow Angel Dust to the niche. Go left over a roof and straight up to a deep crack/groove. Blunder up this to slabs. Outstandingly nice and good protection.
G.Smith, A.Wainwright. (on-sight) (1994).

Thug 50m E7
Two very distinguished pitches. Start from a good ledge under the roof, right of the previous route. A full set of cams obligatory.1 25m. 6b. Ascend the short wall to the huge underclings. The roof crack out there behind ones head is gained via a flange. Jam furiously to a more gentle groove and stance at a ledge.2 25m. 6b. Exit down right from the ledge and dissapear into a deep groove. Appear at the top of the groove after dealing with sustained difficulties. Exit, slightly rightwards up a slab at the top.
G.Smith, L.McGinley (AL), with D. "chips" Quinn. (8/94).

Seven Types of AngularityE5 50m
.An amazing route up the obvious slanting groove running over the left side of the cave. Ideally suited to a contortionist. Start on a big ledge to the left of the cave, under a roof.1 6b. Climb the slab easily rightwards to the roof and further right to the arête. Swing round and enter the hanging groove with difficulty to a rest. Further awkward shuffling is eventually rewarded with a rest on the lip of the cave, in a superb position. Move right across the lip and slightly down to a belay in the base of the corner on the right.2 5a. Move up until forced onto easier ground on the right. Continue up to the top.
C.Waddy, G.Smith (on-sight). 1992.

Wowan's Wocket E6 6b A steep and flamboyant little pitch. Start beneath a short chimney on the left edge of the cave. 1 6b. Climb easily up to the chimney and span left to join Severn Types of Angularity on the arête. Follow this into the groove and awkwardly turn around. Strenuously pull out left to undercuts on the steep hanging wall and desperately work left to the arête. Go up to belay on the ledge. It is also possible to go more directly from the undercuts to the ledge. This pitch is above deep water and so makes a good solo, followed by a dive off the ledge or reverse down the ramp on the left.2 6a. From the break above the ledge, committing moves up the bubbly groove gain a hidden peg on the right. Further worrying moves lead up the slanting groove/rib, peg, to a swing right into the larger corner and good gear. Continue gibbering to the top.
? (2003)

The following two routes start from the right side of the cave.
Andy Cave's Route - E6/7 - through roof crack in back of zawn.

The Light That Didn't Shine 45m XS
A fantastic voyage through the large cave to emerge in Smurf Zawn. A definite must for every coastanier. Probably, best treated as a sea-level traverse. Mid to low tide with calm seas will increase the chances of staying dry. From the right side of the cave, traverse just above the water into the darkness. Cross over onto a ledge on the back wall and teeter rightwards, lured by the distant light. Head up through a squeeze onto a ledge the carry on up and out to meet Green Light. Finish up this (ropes recommended) or make a high but easy traverse (above deep water) across the King of the Swingers wall to safety.
?(1988)

Smurf Zawn
Up wall, left of King of the Swingers. - E2 - C.Waddy.
Variations on King of the swingers:1a Gain the ledge from the left. - C.Waddy
2a Climb directly up the groove with little protection to a scary finish. E4 5c. - Twid

A few routes have been added further right, including a short arête by Twid.

Holyhead Mountain

Ramp C

Breakaway E2 5c 37m.
Climbs the steep crack on the overhung buttress. Layback round the overhang at 5m to a bridging position. A tricky move up gains an arm swallowing pocket. Go up over a bulge at a shallow groove and finish easily up slabs.
J.Dalton, M.Petty. (28/5/93).
P.C.H HVS 5a 15m.
Climbs the diagonal crack in the wall over looking Primrose Hill Gutter. Climb up the slab, step right and follow a crack, jamming over an overlap at 10m. Easier start further up left.
J.Dalton, M.Petty. (28/5/93).

Ramp D

Stairs Direct 5a?
Climb the short corner as for pitch 1 of Stairs but step left and climb through the 1st roof with a crack in its middle,mantleshelf, then continue up rightwards to the next roof, move right to a short wall and finish up this.
M.Handford,Shan Rees Roberts 03/02/07

Ramp F

Oh Man, I Gotta Have a Wildebeast E1 4c 10m.
The slab right of Mental Block, following a quartz streak. One runner, very low down.
I.O.Roberts, D.Noden, E.Parry. (1999).

Minime E2 5b
The right hand arête of the wall of Pisa, climbed on its left hand side. Fiddley cams and a thin sling protect
I.O.Roberts, D.Noden. (1999).

Yellow Wall

Shreddies E2 40m.
Start at a thin crack between Bran Flake and Croissant.1 17m. 5c. Climb to the overlap and go leftwards to base of large flake. Go round this on the right to belay up in a cave.2 23m. Climb easily up slabs to finish.
Nick Sharp, J.Dalton. (12/5/94).

A Seagull Eat My Crisps E4/5 6b 20m.
Climbs the slanting crack in the gully left of King Bee Crack. Climb up to a big spike and traverse left along the break until a hideous jam enables a rest to be appreciated in a niche. Climb the arête/corner to the top.
M.Turner, Mel Griffiths. (6/98).

Trouser Snake E4/5 6a
A variation to Snakebite Wall. From hollow flakes down and left of Katana, crimp up the wall leftwards to join Snakebite Wall after it's rightwards traverse. Follow this to just before it joins King Bee Crack, arrange gear. Traverse up and right to a poor tied off peg then up to a good jug/spike, just left of Penny. Ignore thoughts of escape into Penny, instead head up and left to finish via a left facing groove and easy-peesy slab.
Tim Neill, Toby Keep. (22/6/03).

Trherh Arête E6 6a
Obvious arête (and slab above), right of Sai Dancing.
Mel Griffiths, M.Turner. (6/98).

Don't join the Army Frank! E3 6a
On the right side of the main area, takes the superb arête right of Patience. Gain the arête from the right and reach around for an obvious thread on the left wall. Climb the right side of the arête and pull right into a niche. Continue up until a runner can be placed in the crack on the right (Drying Out). Rock over left to a dinky slab finish. P.S: Don't do it Frank.
Simon Sartram, Barric Barrett. (31/7/90).

The Electric Lady Charlotte E3 5c 27m.
The diagonal line running leftwards out of Patience, crossing The Electric Spanking… near the top.A bit loose in places.
Rich Parry, Mike Gresham. (8/96).

Quartz Wall

The National Conitation E4 6a 25m.
This takes a slab with an overhanging section at half height. Sustained for approximately 5 metres.
P.Mitchell, J.Loveridge. (1999).

Bad Influence E3 5c 25m
Start at the foot of the slab between Black and Tan, and Breaking the Barrier. Climb the slab via a faint white streak (difficult). Continue in the same line to stand on two large foot holds. Traverse right to gain the thin crack, which is climbed to the top.
C.Greatwich, C.Stephenson, L.A.Dutton. (26/7/91).(The thin crack was climbed as a direct finish to Breaking the Barrier (E2 5c, 1989) by John Donnely).

Point Taken E2 5c
Start as for Breaking the Barrier. Climb to the left of the cracks on Breaking the Barrier to a good crack. Follow a vague groove (R.P's protect) and join Black and Tan on the left. Traverse right to the cracks splitting the headwall, left of the finish to Breaking the Barrier, and finish up there. (A new route has been reported taking this finish. Point Taken is independent and left of this).
J.Hope, K.Niel. (7/91).

Dreaming of Home - worth E1.

Scissorhands E1 5b Up the gully from Tempest is a blunt undercut arête, with a crack that stops at 6m.N.Ashton. (29/8/91).

Rhoscolyn
The following two routes are located at a 'new' crag near the Lookout crags, about 300m SE of the coastguard lookout. It is a small V-shaped zawn; the back wall contains a series of overlaps on clean rock

Saltheart E5 6a/b 20m.
From 5m up the left wall (looking in) of the zawn, climb out and up to an overhanging hand crack. Climb steeply out to the 2nd of two jugs (gear) and make a hard move up and out to gain jams in the base of the crack. Struggle up this to a no-hands rest on a ledge. From the left end of the ledge, climb up the wall to a roof the hand traverse the horizontal break rightwards to easy ground. Pumpy, but good pro.
Owen Hayward, Dave Barker (on-sight). (23/5/90).

Behind Closed Doors HVS 5a 25m.
Start just right of Saltheart. Follow the line of holds outwards to the lip, easier than it looks. Traverse rightwards under the roof until below the prominent corner. Pull over to climb the corner and move left at its conclusion. Well worth doing.
Frazer Bull, Owen Haywood, Dave Barker. (23/5/90).

On the right hand side of Sunset Slab is a hanging buttress with an obvious gangway up the left-hand side, with a crack on its right side.

Deganwy HVS 4c 20m.
From sea level, follow the gangway, past a steepening, to the top. Exciting rock, quartz in mudstone.A.Newton, M.Crook. (30/7/95).(Pleasant route at Severe up right side of buttress, pulling over a bulge at half height.
Nick Walton, solo, 1995).

A Very Steep Young Man E5 6b 10m.
The crack system in the overhanging wall right of Deganwy. Start from sloping ledges on the arête. Belay from a rock pool at low tide. From big spikes, go left to gain a wide crack with a difficult swing up and left into continuation cracks and finish bulkily. Magnificent climbing, with the main difficulties confined to the first 10 metres! Take numerous cams.
G.Smith, C.Waddy. (1996).

Election ZawnThe first deep cleft, north of the coastguard lookout. Labelled in the guide as "repulsively loose" prominent coves.

Drink

Your H..?.. the Portillo E31 50m. 4c. From the seaward end of the zawn, traverse the north wall rightwards between the high tide mark and 5 metres over breaks and under a waterfall as the line dictates. Belay on a large ledge below the big corner.2 25m. 5b. Go up and rightwards to the wall and follow folded rock straight up. Move leftwards when the rock runs out onto vegetated rock and a grass cornice. Finish in the cutting area and belay in rabbit burrows. (Belay stake now in place - Reduce E grade by leaving a rope down grass from this).Howard Jones, Gill Lovick. (2/5/97).

From Anoyance to Lingotence E2/3 Traverse from the east end of the zawn on the north wall.1 22m. 5c. Start just left of a shallow corner. Slippery at first - follow a rising traverse leftwards without much protection, but all easy enough, to a rounded ledge. Awkward moves beyond this gain more broken rock and easier climbing to a notch on the arête and a belay.2 25m. 5b/c. Move round the arête onto a worrying ledge and follow this into the corner. Step onto the left wall traverse easily - good protection stuffed rigorously intoDrink Your H..?.. the Portillo. Step down and continue the traverse over a small stream (or larger waterfall, depending on conditions) to reach vegetated ledges alongside the top of wide folded cracks, large cam. Finish joyfully up steep grass by two embedded boulders - stake belay.Howard Jones, Gill Lovick. (3/6/97).

The Red Wedge
The next routes lie some 100 metres left (looking out to sea) of the coastguard lookout; left (looking in) of Sunset Slab. The area can't be seen from above and consists of a wedge of very good quality Yellow Wall rock.

Bulkmaster E2 5c 25m.Start half way up the slabs on the right side of the V. Gain the slab and move left to below the hanging corner above. Climb this with some effort and finish slightly up and left.M.Crook, A.Newton. (30/7/95).

25 Years of Cellulite E2 5b 30m.Start as for Bulkmaster and follow the slab leftwards until moves up a short groove lead to a pedestal. Carry on leftwards and downwards with difficulty, passing a peg, to reach the slab. Scramble up to the top and round to above the last section to protect the second.M.Crook, A.Newton. (1/8/95).

They're Red Hot E3/4 5c 20m.From the niche on the left, traverse right past the peg to an obvious undercut. Gibber straight up the wall to an uncomfortable rest in the corner below the roof. Swing out right on big flatties, bridging thin air, and slap out along the obvious traverse line to arrive in the easy finishing groove. Take big cams.Joe Le Sage, Andy Braund (on-sight). (1995).
Daz Undercling E4 6bThe obvious overhanging crack from the bottom of the cave. Finish up the obvious line above.G.Smith. (1996).
Rechtsclinger E2 5cStart in the cave, as for Daz Undercling, but move out right along an obvious line, becoming a humus sandwich filling finish.M.Crook, R.Wood. (2/96).
Curly Locks and the Three Hairs VS 4b.Thin crack and corner on the left wall of the small zawn opposite The Sun.Nigel Manning, Richard Wright. 11/8/90.
LlawderBigger Girls E5Climbs the wall right of Big Boys. Start at a groove, 8 metres right of the start of The Sun.1 5b. Climb the groove to a sloping ledge. Belay just right of the curving crack.2 6b. Climb the steep wall and step left to the curving crack, which is followed to bigger holds. Traverse 3 metres right and attack the steep finger crack.M.Turner, Graham McMahon. (1997).
Don't Cry E6 6bStart as for Big Boys and after 8 metres, instead of going left, move right to a peg. Climb direct to join the base of the upper groove. Snappy.M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1997).
Shine On You Crazy Diamond E5/6 6b 40m.Takes the steep crack to the right of The Sun past three pegs at the bulge. The strong will continue to join The Sun for the final 20m. Amazingly steep climbing with excellent moves.Ian Lloyd-Jones. (24/8/90).
Fallen Block ZawnJack of All Trades VS 4c 30m.Start 4 metres right of The Trip, below a narrow wall with a grey overhang at its base. Climb through the overhang to the left. Then climb trending right away from the system of cracks on …?… Finish straight up, the angle and difficulties easing, to join The Trip at its belay.Spike Green, Tim Child and Hull University. (1998).

Don't tell Gareth HVS 5a 23mFrom the top of the first pitch of Truant, a deep recess with suspect protection (take at least three slings) trends up diagonally rightwards across the black headwall. Follow the recess past a couple of suspect spike runners to an obvious tooth, spike runner, where the recess steepens. Carefully pull over the tooth to land on a small ledge, junction with Drunk on Arrival. Finish up the overhanging corner, crux, with good runners.Simon Wilson, Helen Bailey. (25/7/96).

The Aberconders' Finish HVS 5b 48m.A superb alternative finish to Truant. Well protected and photogenic.1 15m. Follow the corner of Truant to a large ledge which cuts across the slab from the left at about half height. Belay in the recess.2 33m. Move up the slab on the left for a couple of metres, then using two large pockets, ascend the steep wall on the right to traverse a red-coloured slab into the groove of E.P.Special. Move up this until a prominent undercut flake enables an exposed traverse to the right to the arête of the fin. Climb this to finish on the saddle.Donald King, Bob Llewelyn. (11/10/98).

Sea Cave Zawn

Sea and Bisquits HVS 5a 23m.Start 3m up Solo Slab, step off the slab into obvious bottomless groove. Climb it, crux, then hand traverse steeply right until beneath z-cracks in roof. Climb out over this and up the short wall above.P.Griffith, P.Bursnall. (10/7/92).

The Band of Westies E5 6aEssentially a top pitch to Round the Horn; traversing left below and onto an undercut block. Then traverse diagonally out left to finish where Electric Blue finishes.John Dawes, solo. (8/03).

Big Sunday E5 6a 13m.The overhanging crack left of Fear Test. Follow large jugs just to the right of the hairline crack (good pro). Gain a no hands knee-lock in the big break - loose undercling avoided. Cut loose and head for the off width finish. Well protected with small wires and ancient worthog. Best climbed in rough sea.G.Smith, A.Wood (on-sight) (1988).

Loon For the Broon E2 5b 22m.The route starts from the hanging belay on Symphony Crack. From the belay, take a direct line up the right wall, heading for the right shoulder of the crag top. The sensible climber will take advantage of the numerous pockets for runner placements on this clean brittle wall.Mark Hedge, Sammy Burns. (12/6/98).

From Dusk Till Dawn E3 6a 17m. (Tidal)The striking arête on the opposite side of the promontory from symphony Crack. Climb the right hand side of the arête, fingery at first, till big holds lead onto the arête.M.Turner, I.Wilson. (1996).

Black Zawn
(Tidal)The following routes tackle the short steep wall of the narrow zawn.

Painted Black E5 6b 27m.Start just above the pool, at low tide, and climb the right-hand side of the black recess to gain the obvious juggy flake. Get a good rest below the white headwall, then pull onto edges and make a powerful move to gain a flat hold, just below a juggy break. Quite bold and physical.S.Jones, Pat King, Zaf Ali, John Boy. (12/7/97).

Dark Reflections E7 6b 23m.Take the centre of the overhanging face, starting below a shallow little groove. Two scary moves away from gear/snappy rock. Finish up the snaking crack in the headwall. Brilliant climbing and steady climbing for the grade.S.Jones, Pat King, Zaf Ali, John Boy. (12/7/97).

Slit Yer Wrists E5 6a 20m.Takes the groove at the back of the zawn to the break, on the overhanging side. Climb the steep wide crack on the upper part to finish.S.Jones, P.Brook. (29/6/97).

Starfish Cove
This is the next wall/cave right (looking out to sea) from Sea Cave Zawn.

Starfish Enterprise E6 6b 22m.Takes the wildly overhanging wall/cave. Start on a flat boulder at the bottom left hand side of the cave. Climb up breaks to a niche at 7 metres. Traverse 15 metres along the bottom break and then the top break to pull through the roof at its apex. Steep.M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).

It's Life Twid, But Not as You Know itE3 5c 13m.The small arête of Starfish Cove. Climb the crack in the seaward side and pull through the cracks onto the arête. Finish direct. A route of great character.M.Turner, Ian Wilson.

Painted Wall
(non-tidal)Between the White Arches and the main crags.

Surreal Appeal E7 6b 30m.Start left of centre on the wall. Climb up onto the grass eyebrow and right to the rightward trending weakness. Pass 7 pegs (some better than others) to reach the easier but still interesting top out. Cams useful to belay.M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).There are two ways to go at top- don't know which?

Easel-EE E7 6c (F8a) 30m.Start in the centre of the wall, at its lowest point. Follow the rising line of pegs up and left to join Surreal Appeal at it's crux. Follow this to the top. Hardly a sport route! Doesn't get wet.M.Turner, L.Thomas. (1996).

The White Arches

The Vipper E1 5b 13m.On the section of rock just before (coming from the main area) the bay containing The Cruel Sea, defined on the other side by a square cut bay with a sea level platform at the other end. The route goes just left of the impressive arête that overhangs in it's last 2 metres. Start about 4 metres left of the arête beneath twin cracks. Ascend these to a ledge and step right to beneath the impending corner-crack, 1 metre from the arête. Ascend this, with a hard move to gain the corner, and finish abruptly on top.Si Wilson, Clive Powell. (2003). May have been done before.

The Mutiny VS 4b/cFront of buttress around left of The Cruel Sea. Climb twin cracks on bottomless slab and up the weird rock above. Serious at the grade.Andy Newton, Kath Griffiths. (20/8/91).
Missing Presumed Dead E5 6b 25m.Start from sea washed ledges, reachable from mid to low tide. Climb the superbly protected line underneath the arch, trending rightwards along a rock scar past some pitons, to a rather loose but safe finish. Well protected throughout.G.Smith, T.D.Bonner. 5/1990.
Smiley Rock Between the church parking and the Holyhead road on the Rhoscolyn road, by a school, is a small outcrop with a large rock balanced on top. The next two routes lie on the right side of the obvious wall. ? VS 4c 13m.Takes the arête, moving into a crack.J.Kieinan, J.Simpson. (16/6.90)
The Smiling Coastguard HVS 5a. 13m.Move leftwards after peg. J.Kieinan, J.Simpson. (16/6.90)
(Don't know where this route goes - P.R):Over by the ..?.. walls, .?. way .?. of the main bit, there is an overhanging arête which is clearly impossible (or at least very hard). This route takes the steep groove just right of it (left of .?. .?. .?. which it is possible to climb). Start at lowish tide (rarely dry, if ever). Climb the groove to a roof area. About 7 metres from the top, step left and finish up the continuation groove. Gets a little loose at the top, but well protected.C.Waddy. (1999?)

The RangeOS: 210801
The next two routes lie in a narrow zawn with an excuse for a stream running into it. At the narrow head of the zawn is an overhanging banana shaped spire, bounded on the north by a dog leg crack. The crack is:
American Excess XS 5c 23m.A route of three halves; at first wet, then steep, then loose.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
The Banana Spire E4/5 5c 30m.Start on the arête and move up to where it steepens. Climb the front of the face directly to a notched bulge at the very top. Pull through here. Will become a pleasant, pumpy E4, but a bit snappy at present.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
In a Fit of Pique VS 4cFrom the foot of Roberts Eve, climb diagonally left, crossing Tired of Toeing the Line, to finish to its left.Dan Robson (solo). (18/5/96).
Stoney Monkey HVS 5a 30m.In the Zawn behind Independence Slab, before reaching Grimper/ The Prat In the Flat, there is an obvious white slab with a large overlap at on third height. The route follows the left edge of the slab crossing the overhang at its widest point. There are belay stakes at the top. It is advised the abseil rope is left in place as the last 2 maters are vertical turf. Protection is sparse on the upper wall and rock not totally dependable.D.Robson, D.Birch, M.Pretty. (26/8/92).
Icameisaurus, not Icameosaurus.

Emmenthal Zawn
Dreygo's Guilt5b.Start just left of Hieroglyphics below a quartzy boss.Lasso the boss, with a rope, then jump upwards to a jug on it. Continue easily then move up and left till under a large roof. Wimp out of trying this but instead go left round it, marvellously steep and juggy, to gain the top and flowers etc.C.Waddy, D.Lampard. (8/1989).
Pooh Bay
The Secret of my Excess XS 5b 42m.On the south side of the bay, from the beach at half low tide, 5 metres seaward of the black and quartzy corner. Start by climbing a short wall to a groove which leads to the first overhang. Move 2 metres left below the overhang to beneath a golden quartzy boss. Pull through here and immediately skitter rightwards on undercuts. Move up and rightwards to the weakness in the next overlap, pull up and continue directly to where the slab becomes smooth and silvery. Now it all goes to rat ****; climb up to a rightwards trending groove and follow this to a few metres below the top. Go up leftwards onto a higher slab at a loose flake and grovel over onto the boulder clay. The surface of the silvery slab is fairly temporary and protection is an illusion for the top 15 metres.H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).
I am Curious Yellow E6 6a 27m.This takes the golden groove up the centre of the back wall of Pooh Bay. A.K.A: The Curious George. Abseil in from stakes at the back of the zawn.Walk up leftwards on a stepped slab to where a stream comes out from the stepped wall. Climb a grey groove to get a high runner before moving right across the rotten band to gain a sloping quartzy shelf. Reach up to undercuts. This proves to be an uneasy place to remain and a difficult place to leave. Move up and rightwards into the main groove and follow the groove up to the headwall and then easier ground just below the top.G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998).
Dichotomous wall
Dai-Wrecked E3Start from a small quartz ledge, above high tide, gained by abseil from the Dichotomous stakes.1 25m. 6a. Climb up a slab slightly rightwards to a square-cut overhang. Pass this rightwards by a contorted move into a hanging groove and continue straight up in the same line until the groove doglegs rightwards. Belay.2 7m. 4c. Go easily rightwards and up in the same line to a shattered diagonal line. Crumbling remains.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/01).
Dai-Version E3/4 33m.A much better route taking a multitude of overhangs.1 15m. 5c. Climb straight up to a quartz-cracked overhang. Go through this and immediately through a second overhang above. Belay on a slab.2 17m. 5c. Go up left over a small overlap to the lower of two noses. Climb left onto this and into an uncomfortable sandy groove. Go up this and left again onto the pick of the noses. Finish up the Dichotomous slab.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (5/02).
Ego Warriors E5 27m.About 7 metres left of the top of Dichotomous at stakes, find two round bar stakes. Abseil down to a promontory and walk round right (facing in) to a ledge leading to the cove. Belay at the mouth of the cove, below a quartzy streaked wall.1 17m. 6b. Climb the wall to a shelf, then move slightly down rightwards to good holds and steep ground. Continue up and rightwards to the top of the groove, vie a long reach, poor peg. Pull up into the groove (good peg, hidden on the right) and continue more easily on some doubtful rock to a belay on the stake.2 10m. 5a. Of the many undesirable ways from here to the top, this is least atrocious. From behind the belay, go up slightly left then make a long step left again. Follow a weakness up slightly right to the top.G.Huxter H.Jones. (1998).
The Following route is on the seaward face of the virtually detached piece of land by Ego Warriors & Funny Yellow etc.Go down a steep path to a beach and up onto the top of the island. Find a huge sea cave and abseil down to ledges of the left of the cave.Honed on the Range E5 6aFrom small ledges, above high water, follow an obvious left to right traverse across the lip of the cave. Arrange protection and embark on a thrilling sequence. A very very good episode of its type.G.Smith, J.Harrison. (1998).
The Fortress
At the north end of the Fortress is a subsidiary outcrop, which has an arch through it. The following routes are found on this outcrop (The Turret) in the first zawn to the north of Honed on the Range. Abseil down a snake of quartz on the north side of the zawn.The Snake HS 4b 15m.Climb the line of the abseil to an overhang and go through this.G.Huxter. (1998).
Some V.Diff Severe 17m.Start from palatial ledges to the right of the start of the snake. Climb the slabby corner directly above the ledges.H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).
Grazed and Confused E3 5c 19m.From palatial ledges, move rightwards towards the cave. Climb a slab diagonally rightwards to corrugated rock on a hanging arête. Climb directly above this to a small overhang on the arête, pull through and follow broken cracks slightly rightwards to an overhang. Go over this onto a hanging slab and on to the top.G.Huxter, H.Jones. (1998).
Reuben Friedman's Empty Bed HVS 5a 25m.Start from palatial ledges. Move round rightwards, as for Grazed and Confused. From below the corrugated arête, hand traverse into the cave and on to an overhung slab. Climb the slab rightwards to a ledge in the cave. From this ledge, if you are short, jump across the zawn to a sloping ledge opposite. If you are tall, step across without difficulty. If, however, you are of average height, beware of finding yourself with a foot in either camp and falling between two stools, ending in the ----. From the sloping ledge, climb directly up for protection then move down and left across the blow hole to climb up through it on its left-hand side.H.Jones, G.Huxter. (1998).

Trearddur Bay - The Face of Adversity.Reached by taking the minor road southwards to the southern most headland of the bay. Enter a disgusting housing estate and follow a sign to "Headland". Probably best to ask guy in house (with "Beware of Dog" sign) if it is O.K to climb his cliff.

Dr Livingstone I Exhume E3 5b
Descend as for The Treacherous Underfoot and belay just above sea level. The route starts from the first ledge above high water. Go straight up the wall, with trepidation, to a half way ledge, gear. Bail up the wall above, trending slightly leftwards past a mega thread to finish. Excellent.
P.Barker, M.Anthone.

Treacherous Underfoot E6 6b 15m.
Precambrian yarding up the overhanging crack in the face, suited to a mid to low tide. Mostly protected by pegs.
G.Smith. (1992).
Chicama E9 6c 15m.
Traverse in from the slab on the right before questing up the groove and wall. RA!
Timmy! Emmett!, 2003

The Crow Road E6 6b 15m.
The crack line on the left side of the face. Approach as for The Treacherous Underfoot, over the boulder at low tide or down the slab on the left at high tide. Scramble up to belay ledge. Climb the crack past 7 peg runners and assorted cam placements. Pegs 2, 3, and 7 are the best. Large nuts required at the top (sorry girls!).
G.Farquhar, C.Carolan. (inspected). (30/7/93).
2nd ascent by Twid, 3rd by Owen Hayward
Pegs probably in bad condition by now.

Headland XS 6a
The obvious prow jutting out of the sea, adjacent to the Adversity main face. Scramble down to sea level. Attack from the left by large sloping jugs. Committing moves leads to ace jug things. Bolder at low tide.
G.Smith. (1993).

Alex Outlaws Electric Rod XS 5a
As for Headland, however, takes the unobvious prow ….?…Merlin Tomkins. (1993).

Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes XS 5c 23m.
On the crag back and left (looking in) of The Treacherous Underfoot. It takes a direct line up the longest part of the crag and traverses slightly right on Stegosaurus like protrusions at the top. Fun and friable.
A.Hopkins, J.Harrison, P.Barker. (summer/92).

Captain Gets his Oats E3 5c 17m.
Right of Sir Ranolph Sex Fiennes is a crack going left to an arête. Traverse along the crack to the arête thing and climb direct up this with much interest to a step slightly left onto a sloping ledge.
A.Hopkins, J.Harrison, P.Barker. (summer/92).

Reinhold Made a Mesner HVS 5a 13m.Takes a crack over to the right of Captain Gets his Oats. Steep and fun.J.Harrison, P.Barker. (summer/92).

Dangleberries E4 6b 10m.
Situated on an overhanging wall to the right of The Treacherous Underfoot (looking in). Very short and very steep crack sporting 2 pegs, often wet but good value.
P.Barker, J.Harrison. (summer/92).

The next three routes lie in a deep gully at the end of the boundary wall, on a slab facing seawards. Descend either by abseil or down climb Diff face.Boundary Corner V.Diff 17m.Flaky crack in right hand corner. Follow thin crack to the top.N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Dogleg Crack V.Diff 17m.The right hand of 2 cracks up the centre of the wall.N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Catleg Crack V.Diff 17m.The left hand crack.N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).
Campian Crack Severe 14m.In the small bay to the right of a sewage pipe, the wall on your right as you are facing seawards, which has a crack turning diagonally leftwards, split at half height. Climb this.N.Malne (solo). (21/4/93).

Ynys Y Fydlyn
Jam Yesterday, Jam Tomorrow, But Never Jam Today E4 6a 20m.This route is best approached by a tunnel through the headland which begins in the cave to the left of the George Smith classic: Lost Pillar of Scheiser. More boringly, walk north over the headland, from the beach, to a tall concrete post. Go down left and find the clean slot left again at the mouth of the through cave.The route takes the clean central line up the wall, past a tied off peg at two thirds height.G.Huxter (unseconded). (1998).

Carmel Head (opposite Skerries lighthouse)
The Lost Pillar of Scheiser XSThe cliff is largely decomposing but with one magnificent vein of quartz type stratified intrusion. This is of course The Lost Pillar. Start just right of the biggest sea cave and bail to the top, taking care with the rock.G.Smith, M.Crook. (18/11/92).

Penmon Quarry

Hamamatsu Flies Again E3 5c 27m.An interesting varied route through big roofs on solid rock. Good gear. Ascend the scree slope directly below the cliffs to largest roof. Climb suspect rock until a groove leads directly to a corner and ledge underneath the first roof. A long sling can then be attached to an iron nail here. Traverse out, turning the roof on its left and make a hard move up to get both feet on the lip and a rest. Ascend the crack to a second roof and make a strenuous traverse left under this. …bla, bla, bla….R.Durnford, M.Boater. (7/8/91).
?? (Driller Killer ?)A Delicate route on mainly sound rock. Start below the obvious drill line and ascend shattered rock to an obvious crack at 5m. Good gear. Pull round the bulge with difficulty and onto the main face and the drill line where the rock becomes solid. Follow the drill line on small positive holds to a good peg (?) at 13m. Move right to a line of flakes. Move back into the drill line, and carefully trend left to gain the arête just below the obvious ledge. From the ledge, make delicate moves left on suspect rock and pull up an overhanging finish.R.Durnford, M.Boater. (22/8/91).
…???…of Jools HVS 4c 33m.Takes the slab and corner left of Driller Killer. Finish moving right from the ledge of Driller Killer.M.Boater, M.Raw, R.Durnford,. (22/7/91).
?? Dee HVS 5a 40m.Obvious hanging crack 12m left of Passions of Fools.M.Boater, R.Durnford. (28/3/92).
Quirky Hip Gyrations E3 6b 8m.A horizontal crack leading to a large ledge, pulling out to large holds leftwards, overhanging moves up a corner to a triangular block. Move right around to top. Sea edge of Penmon Quarries.Martin Breialt. (12/7/93).

Benllech (See Other Anglesey Crags...)
The Tide is Turning F6a
New route just left of the large corner crack (right of the previous routes) follows a line of 5 bolts up and just left of a shallow V groove to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 20/12/07
Fossil Zone F6a
New route on the right hand side of this part of the upper tier. Climbs a clean section of the wall on small holds past numerous fossils and 5 bolts to a lower off. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 20/12/07
Gone Fishing F7bish Maybe 7a+?? Steep start to ledge then up groove/ crack to small roof, before launching up the headwall to finish on a thank god jug just over the final little roof. Lower off. Steep, varied climbing, worth a star. (stays dry in light rain) 6 bolts protect- 1 resin, 5 stainless 12mm's.
F.A Jon Ratcliffe 31/07/08
N.B Parkin is worried about the weld rusting on the resins so has recommended using the 12mm stainless though bolts until problem sorted.
Benllech, Craig Dwlban - Main Wall (see topo section)

Escape Route (*) 5+ 10m.
A good route which follows the big crack on the far left of the main wall. Pleasant steep climbing on positive holds and jugs throughout.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers 25/07/08
Contraflow (*) 6b 10m.
A test of wing span. Start at the base of the wall next to the block and make side pull lunges to gain the easier climbing above.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers 25/07/08
Christmas Cracker - E2 5c (soon to be bolted at 6b+)
The obvious crack up the left hand side of the wall to a double bolt lower off. FA/FFA Tristan Peers, David Peers 26/12/2007
Hard Shoulder - 6a+
A direct line to share the lower-off of Central Reservation.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 16/03/08
Central Reservation - 6b
Straight up the main wall trending leftwards at the overhang
FA (E3 5b) Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007 (1 peg)
Central Reservation - Diversion Finish - 6b
Finish rightwards to Poison Ivy Lower-off (FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 16/03/08)
Poison Ivy - 6a
Follow the crack line near the right arete to finish over a bulge.
FA Tristan Peers, David Peers, Jodie Cuff 15/05/08


Benllech, Craig Dwlban - Left Wall

Dwlban Arete - HVS 4c
The arete on the left hand side of the wall. FA Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007
Greaseball - E1 5b
Straight up the wall 2 metres to the right of the arete to a small overlap. Caution, some loose rock at the top. FA Tristan Peers, David Peers Oct 2007

Porth Dafarch
From the beach car park, head left/south to the headland. Pass one inset to reach the furthermost, west-most zawn (not obvious). The next route takes the large south-facing wall in the back of the zawn, capped by huge roofs. Large tidal slabs can be used to gain the bottom of the zawn. Fisherman's Friend lies at the seaward end of the zawn.Brewing and Nothingness E5 6a 17m.Climb the juggy wall at the inland end of the face to a prominent quartz riddled notch. Easy to begin - to moving ledges. The steepening quartzy area is protected by numerous slings. Gain a handrail to enter the left-hand niche and the top with trepidation. Plastacine forearms etc.G.Smith, Alistair Hopkins. (2/93).
The Blue House E5 6a 20m.Located in Blue House Cave. Climbs the obvioue left leaning flake thing on north..?..G.Smith. (2000?).
Fedw Fawr (Left Hand) 42 Moves F6b New route. On the Left hand (Sea) side of Fedw Fawr crag left of Albin and Co F6c+ A line of 5 resin bolts leads the way through the steep / overhanging horizontal breaks to the blanker headwall above. Some thinner moves gain a grassy ledge and the 2 bolt lower off above. A fun route which overhangs by 2 metres with an entertaining crux at the top! FA Ian Lloyd-Jones, Phil Targett 17/02/08 (Climbed on my 42nd Birthday in sub zero temperatures!)

Porth-Y Garan
Lower grade small crag - north of Rhoscolyn. See mini-guide here -> Porth-Y-Garan Miniguide. All these routes were first climbed by Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
Unless specified all routes first climbed by Tristan Peers & David Peers around August 1998.
From Topo plus new routes 03-09-09(Routes added by E Russell may be graded wrongly as I have no prior experience in FA! also someone must have done some of these before?)

Rostam's Awkward Bulge HVD Climb up the groove/corner from the bottom or leap on from above. The difficulties ease after the bulge. 3m left of Sunset Crack. Possibly worth a star(though I do say so myself) E Russell, R Namaghi, C Stevens 03-09-09
Sunset Crack VS 5a The steep crack line 4m left of golden gate, finishes directly. E Russell, C Stevens 03-09-09
Forgettable S The overhanging line left of Golden gate is ___________ though would prehaps be less so if started in the cave thingy?
E Russell(Solo) 03-09-09
Golden Gate Diff
Scimitar Diff
Va-Va-Vroom VS 4c
From the Ledge climb to the left of the hole, making a bold move over the bulge.
Blast Hole VS 4c
Climb straight up the wall to the right of the hole.

Snappy HVS 4c
1m Right of Blast Hole. Climb the wall direct to the overlap, continue on the same line above.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Central Wall S 4a
Climb the centre of the wall finiahing at a small layback flake.

Didgeridoo S 4a
Climb up the wall past two diagonal pockets to a small overlap.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Double Pocket S 4a
Climb past the double pockets at 1/3 height, then to the overlap and finsih up a thin crack.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Rising Tide S 4a
Follow the obvious rising crack line.

Double Thread VD
Start as for Rising Tide, but take the parrellel cracks above on jugs to the top.
K.M.Bromfield, P.A.James (20/07/08)

Garanteed VD
The left hand crack.
Pickpocket VD
Follow the right hand pocketed crack.
Descent Mod/Diff
Puncture VS 4c
The Overhanging crack, making a committing move to gain the easy upper section.

Spring Tide HVS 5a
2m Right of Puncture. Climb the overhanging crack on good holds with a big reach to the top.
P.A.James, K.M.Bromfield. (20/07/08)

Thugs Corner VS 4c*
Round the corner from Spring tide is an overhanging corner with twin cracks. It is quite pumpy. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09
Apparantly even crap routes merit names(just) S 4a
The crack line 1m right of Thug's corner, isn't brilliant. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09
<Insert name> HS 4b
The next crack line along. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09
<Insert Another Name> S
The arete at the end of the gangway isn't half as fun as it looks. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09
Heartbreaker Slab VS 4b
Climb the slab right of the arete, reach for top then scramble around for hidden holds. E Russell, C Stevens 05/09/09

FEDW FAWR NEW CRAG
Les Vacances F6b Takes the wall left of Mr Hulo. Steep Moves up the wall just right of a seepage line, past 3 bolts. Belay / lower off large blocks on the ledge above. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/05/08 Mr Hulo F6a A reachy start gains positive pockets leading to the top, 3 bolts. Belay / lower off large blocks on the ledge above. FA Phil Targett and Ian Lloyd-Jones 6/05/08 Unclimbed F6c 3 bolts passing a sloping ramp line. Sir Lobalot F6c A steep start gains the horizontal break, good holds and foot jams followed by large pocketed holds and cracks lead the way past 3 bolts. FA Ian Lloyd-Jones 13/05/08 Statement of Roof F6c New route, takes a line of weakness through the large roof, 5 bolts lead the way…top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the large block on the ledge above. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 13/05/08 Scream to a Sigh F6c New route, start by pulling through the initial roof to the first bolt, continue past another bolt to gain the final and problematic roof (bolt) top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 6/05/08 Back in Black F5+ A steep start gains a shallow groove, move right out of this and climb the wall above past some large holds. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett 14/03/08 For those about to Rock… F6a A steep start gains a shallow groove, move right out of this and climb the blunt rib / wall above. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 14/03/08 We Salute You! F6a+ The obvious line of weakness, a steep start leads to an easier groove above. 3 resin Bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the blocks on the ledge (large slings). FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 14/03/08 The Missing Link F6b New route, (start below a ledge with a rusty chain wedged in a break) to the left of Rockferry 2 bolts lead the way, top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08 Rockferry F6a+ New route, balancy climbing up the middle of the wall, 3 bolts lead the way top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08 Rock Monster F6b New route to the right of Rockferry start below a line of 4 bolts, pass the first by strenuously pulling on pockets to gain the break (crux) easier climbing remains, top out and belay / lower off the bolt on the ledge. F.A. Ian Lloyd-Jones and Phil Targett (Both Led) 13/05/08


No user avatar
The_Third 		Latest page update: made by The_Third , Sep 5 2009, 4:29 PM EDT (about this update About This Update The_Third Edited by The_Third

112 words added

view changes
- complete history)
Keyword tags: Gogarth new routes list
More Info: links to this page

Threads for this page

Started By Thread Subject Replies Last Post
chriswentworth redwalls the end e76c 0 Jun 30 2007, 7:18 AM EDT by chriswentworth
Thread started: Jun 30 2007, 7:18 AM EDT  Watch
a direct on broccoli gardens top pitch from the ledge climb straight up the wall to the jug finish as for the broccoli garden unrepeated unseconded september 95 see photo
Do you find this valuable?    
Keyword tags: None
Showing 1 of 1 threads for this page