Named after the rock pillar that marks the top of the descent gully, that bears an erie resemblence to those on the south pacific island of the same name. The approach is one of the more exciting at Gogarth, and to think two rock climbers reputedly took a local alcoholic down there in cowboy boots, they must have been trying to kill him!

The difficult and intimidating approach means that you will more often than not be alone at this venue. The approach can be tamed by bringing a rope to fix down the lower descent gully to where it is possible to abseil again down the line of Supercrack, so bring rope and lots of it! (Alternatively, bring one long abseil rope approx 70m???, and do the abseil in one from better belays than the ones you'll find just above the Zawn). Not the best place place for your first visit

Although reasonably small, the access to this section of cliff would otherwise be impossible. There are many classic in this area like Hombre, Swastika, Wonderwall and Orzmud.

Approach

To reach the first routes, traverse right from the Wonderwall Zawn at barnacle level, until just before the point where the cliff juts out and the traverse peters out.

Watership Down 34m VS 4c
A fun route which is to be found just to the right (looking out) when descending the upper part of the approach gully en route for the Easter Island climbs. Start at the foot of the buttress where there is a slab on the right. Climb a steep crack in the slab to an overhang at six metres, then move left and make a hard move right to enter a chimney groove which is climbed more easily then go up leftwards to a ledge on the nose. A tricky step up right on dubious holds gains the finishing groove.
A Evans G Milburn (05/11/1978)

Swastika 62m E1 *
A steep, committing climb on good rock, with one tricky move to start. Start beneath the obvious groove immediately before the wall projects out and becomes very hard to traverse.
1 15m 5C. Drop down a few metres and traverse onto the front of the buttress. Bear rightwards up to a flake then make a descending traverse right to a stance and belay.
2 10m 5A. From the base of the chimney (Praetor) move onto the right wall and ascend to a flake. Go up rightwards from this to a ledge and peg belay.
3 15m 5A. Go straight up then right to a ledge on the arete, then carry on to a second ledge, and from its left end pull over the bulge and ascend leftwards to a peg belay (as for Praetor).
4 22m. 5A Traverse left for three metres and pull onto a small slab and climb the steep crack above, moving right to finish up a small corner.
LE Holliwell, LR Holliwell (VL) (17/05/1969)

Praetor 57m E1
Another committing proposition, again with one tricky move at the start. Start as for Swastika.
1 15m 5C As for Swastika.
2 21m 5A Gain the shallow chimney and follow this and the crack above to a peg belay.
3 21m 5A Continue, following the obvious line to the top.
J Brown I MacNaught-Davis (1 pt aid) (14/05/1967)

This Year's Model - E3
A superb route taking a steep and exposed line up the black wall right of Hombre. Start as for Swastika.
1 40m 5C. Follow Swastika, around past Hombre, then go up a shallow crack/groove bearing leftwards until a line of holds leads up rightwards across the steep wall to slabs. Belay at the base of a ramp.
2 21m 5A Take the obvious crack between Swastika and Praetor.
J Moran, P Jewell (AL) (13/06/1978)

Lost in SpaceGrade??

Boil All Irishmen 60m E5
This again follows the wall to the right of Hombre, starting as for that route.
1 30m 6B Climb the wall right of Hombre, by two thin seams, to reach a dubious hold. Span right and move up to a sloping ledge and belay.
2 30m 4C Step left and follow the groove, on its right side, aiming for a crack and finish up this.
C Smith, ME Crook (AL) (07/1986)

Hombre 64m E1 **
A brilliant and popular route with excellent climbing at its grade, good protection and solid rock. Start as for Swastika.
1 15m 5B Climb up into the corner above until quartz holds lead right to the arete, then go strenuously up a small groove to reach a ledge and belays on the right.
2 37m 5B Climb the groove then the steep crack above.
3 12m Easy cracks lead o the top
J Brown, I MacNaught-Davies (1 pt aid) (14/05/1967)

Big Gut 52m VS
A varied and interesting climb, reasonable for its grade. Start as for Swastika, below the groove.
1 15m 4C The groove leads pleasantly to a ledge.
2 10m The broken corner on the left leads to a ledge.
3 27m 4C Climb the slabby groove to small ledge, then take the broken corner to reach the top.
J Brown, D Alcock (08/01/1967)

Rock Island Line 45m HVS*
This climb takes the obvious arete between Big Gut and Crossover. To th left of Big Gut is an obvious break of yellow rock that trends slightly right. Start at the foot of a groove immediately right of this yellow break.
1 23m 5A Go right and climb the fine open arete to a ledge, then take the short corner crack, as for Big Gut, to the ledge.
2 22m 5A Take the thin flake crack in the wall left of Big Gut until an easier wide crack leads to the top.
J Moran, A Evans (AL) (13/05/1978)

Crossover 50m VS
Start as for Rock Island Line
1 15m 4B Climb the groove to belay on a good ledge on Big Gut.
2 10m 4C Take the crack in the right wall, then the shallow groove which leads back into the main corner, to belay as for Big Gut.
3 25m 4B Climb steeply up the lab on the right of a thin crack in the right wall, then take the groove and a flake on the right to finish.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (22/01/1967)

Rotten Gut 45m HVS 5A
A disgusting-looking route which goes through the yellow break. Start directly beneath the break and climb the groove by its right wall to reach the overhang. Step right thn go into the break on the left above the overhang. Finish more easily above.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (30/04/1967)

Catalogue Man's Big Adventure E3 5c 33m.

Essentially a left hand finish to Rotten Gut. Climb up Rotten Gut to the yellow rock then break left and make a gnarly move over a roof. Continue on suspect rock for 7m and step left before a wall of green lichen. Finish up adjacent E1.

Mat Smith, Ray Saunders. (21/5/94)

.
Fluke 50m HVS
Strenuous climbing up the wall between Rotten Gut and Small Gut. Start beneath a groove, a few metres right of Tape Worm.
1 15m 4B Climb the overhanging groove diagonally rightwards to a small ledge, then move left to climb a short crack to reach a belay ledge on the left.
2 20m 5B Move back right and go up the wall to a short overhanging crack. Go over the bulge above then step left and ascend to another ledge. Belays higher up.
3 15m 4A Step right (as for Small Gut) to climb a crack which leads to the top.
P Crew, A Alvarez (2 pts aid) (14/05/1967)

Small Gut 60m HVS
Start as for Fluke, beneath the groove a few metres right of Tape Worm.
1 20m 4A Climb the groove to a ledge with spike belays.
2 10m 5A Take the clean-cut groove above.
3 30m 4A Go right along ledges for 12 metres then finish up a thin crack.
J Brown, D Alcock (08/01/1967)

Tape Worm 50m HVS
A direct line up the groove just right of the arete, with a steep top pitch. Start beneath the clean-cut groove just right of the arete.
1 10m 4C Climb the groove to a stance on a sloping ledge.
2 12m 4C Follow the thin diagonal crack on the left to a small ledge, then stp right to another ledge and spike belay.
3 28m 5A Steeply climb the cracked wall, to the left of the clean-cut groove of Small Gut, straight to the top.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (15/01/1967)

Merchant Man 45m E1
Well-positioned climbing up the airy arete between Tape Worm and Phagocyte leads to a rather gripping pitch above. Start just right of the arete.
1 20m 5B Climb the wall just right of the arete to where it steepens, then climb the flying arete itself to a cramped stance (as for Phagocyte).
2 25m 5A Move up right then climb the true arete which leads, thankfully, to easier rock and the top.
J Moran, G Milburn (06/05/1978)

Phagocyte 45m HVS
A good hearty route up the steep crack just left of the right arete of the wonderwall Zawn. Start beneath the obvious steep crack.
1 22m 5a Climb the crack strenuously until a short traverse right leads to a cramped stance just right of the arete.
2 23m 5a Go up right and make a neatly technical rightwards move to access a groove. Follow this to the top, difficulties easing with height.
J Brown, P Crew (AL) (30/04/1967)

Wonderwall *** E3 6a 45m
High in the grade. A sustained pitch. Start beneath the central crack, just R (just left of? Pete H) of Phagocyte. Climb the crack quickly until forced left into another crack. Follow this to the imposing roof. Pull up and rightwards (crux) into a groove which trends rightwards. Move back left on friable flakes to a small foot ledge. Move back right to climb the arete, in a fine position, to arrive at palatial belay on the arete.

I Wonder Why

Volcano
E2's okay. Up the righthand corner of the back of easter island gully looking in. Gear was fine but a tad streneous and bird bound (bit veggy too).

The Ragged Runnel E5 6a 50m.

A good adventure through 'territory'. Ascend the first pitch of Wandering Wall, free climbing past the fishing rod manoeuvre (possible stance here). Arrange some protection and battle with the roof. Place some more good gear round on the wall above before the legs collapse, then go up the shattered **** to a rest on a tiny ledge. Continue up the disintegrating scoop above past a possible spike belay. The top requires some care. (It would be possible to escape onto the Wonderwall side of the zawn after the easier ground is reached). Belay well back on the path down to the zawn. The route in no way supersedes Wandering Wall, it is merely an alternative exploit for those without fishing rods.

G.Smith. (on-sight, completely in bulk). (28/8/91).

Exit Groove HVS 5a
The steep crack in the lefthand back corner of the zawn gives steep and well protected climbing. Climb the chimney, move left to a crack and climb to a vertical slot. Step left to a niche and finish up the crack to reach the abseil point.
J.Brown, P.Crew, (22/1/67)

Shagger's Start HVS 5b *
A much better variation to Exit Groove, taking the crack between Supercrack and the lower corner of Exit Groove, moving right to finish up the latter.
P.Trower, I.Wilson (April 1989)

Supercrack*** E3 5c. 38m
The hard to miss snaking crack to the left of the abseil. Start opposite Wonderwall, at a fang like flake beneath the steep left hand crack. Rapidly climb the pumpy crack to a respite at 12m. Follow the kinking crack leftwards to where it steepens slightly. Continue directly to a large belay ledge.
Low in the grade.

Sex Lobster

Belial HVS 5a *
Takes the steep overhanging groove in the front face of the zawn, immediately outside it in the direction of Wen Zawn. From a rock platform gain the groove and make exposed but well protected moves to finish more easily at the abseil point.
P.Crew, A. Alvarez (5/2/67)

Pequod E3 5c
The obvious scooped crack left of Belial Climb the wall to reach the flake crack in the middle of the scoop, follow this to the bulge and continue up the right-trnding crack to reach easier ground.
Jim Moran, Al Evans. 23/4/78

Drag

Vicious Fish

Neutrino
E1 5b ? - It's more like E2 5c. Yes, at least E2 5b/c

Exit Chimney

The Real Keel

Annihilator

For Madmen Only

Ormuzd E4 5b, 5c
The big overhanging Chimney with a roof at its top and an airy continuation above.

The Red Sofa

The Ancient Mariner

Ahriman HVS 5a *
This route takes the wall and groove in the arete left of Ormuzd. The first pitch starts well left of Ormuzd at a left trending diagonal crack.

Gazebo HVS 5a *
A good pitch on nice rock, with some route finding interest. It takes the orange wall left of Ahriman. Start up the left trending diagonal crack of Ahriman, but continue up this for 8 metres before moving right to a spike. Climb in to the bottomless groove above and follow this to a short corner. Follow the corner to a ledge below a second corner. From the bottom of this corner move left on to the wall and climb direct to the top.
L.E. Holliwell, L R Holliwell, D.Mossman (1/12/68)

Tumbling Dice E3 6a
Start as for Ahriman.Follow the crack until holds leadup right to the small overgang.Surmount this with difficulty and head up right to a flake.. Step left and climb thesteep open corner and a final corner/crack to the top.
Jim Moran, G Milburn. 29/4/78

An Unimportant Wave

Perpendicular VS 4b
Start as for Ahriman

1. follow the crack to a ledge on the arete on the left.m Moran
2. Go left into the groove of Diagonal, then take the obvious flake crack out across the wall and finish direct.
Al Evans, Jim Moran 23/4/78

Belvedere E2, 5c, 5b
The obvious arete left of Perpendicular.
Joe Brown, F Corner, D Jones (1 pt aid. 2/5/78) FFA M Crook 1986

Diagonal VS 4c
Start beneath the shallow groove left of Belvedere, climb it and finish up the wall on the right.
Joe Brown, Dave Alcock. 8/1/67

Diatom VS 4c
Start as for Diagonal, follow this for 6mts to the arete, Climb the arete on the right to the finish of Perpendicular.
Al Evans, Jim Moran. 23/4/78

Micron HVS 5a
Thediagonal crack left of the groove of Diagonal
FA

Microdot HVS 5a
The crack left of Micron, over the bulge at half height to finish up an easy corner
Jim Moran, G Milburn. 29/4/78