Ermintrude 36m E6 6a ***

Left hand finish to Angel Dust. Slightly harder and weirder. Follow Angel Dust to the niche. Go left over a roof and straight up to a deep crack/groove. Blunder up this to slabs. Outstandingly nice and good protection.

G.Smith, A.Wainwright. (on-sight) (1994).

Thug 50m E7 ***

Two very distinguished pitches. Start from a good ledge under the roof, right of the previous route. A full set of cams obligatory.
1 25m. 6b. Ascend the short wall to the huge underclings. The roof crack out there behind ones head is gained via a flange. Jam furiously to a more gentle groove and stance at a ledge.
2 25m. 6b. Exit down right from the ledge and dissapear into a deep groove. Appear at the top of the groove after dealing with sustained difficulties. Exit, slightly rightwards up a slab at the top.

G.Smith, L.McGinley (AL), with D. "chips" Quinn. (8/94).

Seven Types of Angularity E5 50m ***

An amazing route up the obvious slanting groove running over the left side of the cave. Ideally suited to a contortionist. Start on a big ledge to the left of the cave, under a roof.

1.6b. Climb the slab easily rightwards to the roof and further right to the arête. Swing round and enter the hanging groove with difficulty to a rest. Further awkward shuffling is eventually rewarded with a rest on the lip of the cave, in a superb position. Move right across the lip and slightly down to a belay in the base of the corner on the right.

2. 5a. Move up until forced onto easier ground on the right. Continue up to the top.

C.Waddy, G.Smith (on-sight), 1992.

Wowan's Wocket E6 **

A steep and flamboyant little pitch, followed by a fine and serious top pitch. Start beneath a short chimney on the left edge of the cave.

1. 6b. Climb easily up to the chimney and span left to join Severn Types of Angularity on the arête. Follow this into the groove and awkwardly turn around. Strenuously pull out left to undercuts on the steep hanging wall and desperately work left to the arête. Go up to belay on the ledge. It is also possible to go more directly from the undercuts to the ledge. This pitch is above deep water and so makes a good solo, followed by a dive off the ledge or reverse down the ramp on the left.

2. 6a. From the break above the ledge, committing moves up the bubbly groove gain a hidden peg on the right. Further worrying moves lead up the slanting groove/rib, peg, to a swing right into the larger corner and good gear (junction with Thug). Continue gibbering to the top.

P. Robins, B. Bransby (P1: GU by Pete, P2: OS by Pete) Aug 2003.
(The pegs on P2 were placed years before by L.McGinley as a potential P2 for Thug)

The following two routes start from the right side of the cave.

Bats in the Belfry E6/7 ***
This difficult route climbs the stunning roof crack through the cave itself. A fine test of jamming skills. Start mid way into the cave at a slab beneath the only entry to the crack.
1 25m. 6b. Climb the short slab and use undercuts to gain the roof crack. Follow this through three crux sections to the lip in a wild position. Belay on the right at a small ledge. A large rack is required.
2 10m. 5a. Climb more easily to the top.
1998 A. Cave, N. Craine (Sep 1991. A. Cave, I. McNeil, 1rest point)

The Light That Didn't Shine 45m XS ***

A fantastic voyage through the large cave to emerge in Smurf Zawn. A definite must for every coastaneer. Probably, best treated as a sea-level traverse. Mid to low tide with calm seas will increase the chances of staying dry. From the right side of the cave, traverse just above the water into the darkness. Cross over onto a ledge on the back wall and teeter rightwards, lured by the distant light. Head up through a squeeze onto a ledge then carry on up and out to meet Green Light a few meters above the sea. Finish up this (ropes recommended) or decend back to sealevel and traverse out at the base of the King of the Swingers Wall. Alternatively, make a high but easy traverse (above deep(ish) water) across the King of the Swingers wall to safety.

?(1988)